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mounted by an octagon tower, and contains a edifice. The cathedral was commenced in the Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by latter part of the twelfth century, but was not Van Dyck, and à Virgin and Saints, by Crayer. | finished until the year 1513. The choir is of 1366; A rail from Lokeren comes in here.
the great nave of 1487. The tower was begun On leaving Termonde, we pass a great many 1452; and the round tower which surmounts the pretty villages of no note, and leaving East building, is almost entirely composed of buttresses, Flanders arrive at
which give it, when seen from a distance, the Malderen (Station). A commune containing appearance of a fragment of a colossal fluted column. 1,700 inhabitants, situated at the extremity of the It was built with the funds supplied by the province of Brabant.
offerings of the pilgrims, who came in crowds to Capelle-au-Bois (Station). A little village of | Mechlin, to share the advantages of the jubilee no importance. Leaving at a short distance from and general indulgence proclaimed by Pope Nichere the province of Brabant, we enter at Hombeck holas V., on the occasion of the war in the East, the province of Antwerp. Passing the ruins of the which however terminated the very next year in famous valley of Seliendael, we arrive at
the annihilation of the Eastern Empire, and the MECHLIN (Station)-French, Malines; Ger- occupation of Constantinople by the Turks, under man, Mechlen; Flemish, Mechelen.
Mahomed. It was from this jubilee that the town The Malines station is about five minutes' walk acquired the name of “Malines l'heureuse," from the town, which is one of the most pictur- has since, from its great cleanliness, been named esque Flemish cities. An obelisk is here erected “Malines là propre," but it is now often called to mark the point where the various Belgic lines "la tranquille," as the grass grows in its streets. of railway diverge to Brussels, Ghent, Antwerp,
This tower, 350 feet (98 mètres) high, and has a dial and Liége. The entrance from the railway station
plate of 144 feet in circumference. The view from is fine. A line to Terneusen (p. 25) was opened 1871.
the summit over the surrounding country is exPopulation (1873), 38,546.
tensive, comprising the towns of Antwerp, Brussels, Mechlin is a large town in the province of
and Louvain. It was originally intended to surAntwerp, divided by the Dyle into two parts. It mount the tower by a vane of copper gilt, which is equidistant from Brussels, Antwerp, and Louvain. would have increased the height nearly one-third
The streets are broad, and bordered in many but the project has never been put into execution, places by good buildings.
and the tower remains unfinished. The alarm The river Dyle passes through the town, and occasioned by the reflection of the moon on this has an ebb and flow of tide for more than a league tower, which gives it the appearance of being on fire, beyond Mechlin, in the direction of Louvain. was the origin of the proverb of the wise men of
This town dates its origin as far back as the fifth Mechlin, who try to extinguish the moon; the century, and was long a subject of contention bare mention of which, to an inhabitant of the between the lords of Brabant and Flanders.
town, would even now excite an irritation not The lace produced at Mechlin is considered easily to be appeased. The interior of the cathesecond only to that of Brussels, from which it dral presents nothing worthy of notice except the differs principally in being made in a single piece, altar-piece, which is by Van Dyck, its subject is by means of bobbins, by which the entire patterns the Crucifixion. It has also paintings of Crayer, are produced at once, instead of being worked Janssens, and others. The exterior grand-front is gradually by the hand, and hence it is stronger ornamented with several statues, amongst them than the Brussels lace, though inferior to it in are Faith, Hope, Charity, and the Apostles. Its delicacy of workmanship.
carillons or bells, which are noted, were constructed The principal building of Mechlin is the cathe- by Van der Gheyn, an artist of the eighteenth dral, which is the metropolitan church of Belgium. century, author of “Morceaux Fugués." It is dedicated to St. Rombauld, who was assassin- In the church of Notre Dame, behind the grand ated by the Pagans, in 765, in the chapel of St. | altar, is the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, painted Stephen, which stood near the site of the present by Rubens, expressly for the Guild of Fishmongers,
and considered one of his finest productions. In Near the Antwerp Gate is a small convent of the same church are also a few fine pictures by Béguines, which deserves attention. In the chapel Van Dyck. The traveller must take care not to are some pictures worthy of notice. confound this church with that called Nôtre Dame Near the Town Hall (of the fifteenth century) is d'Hanswyck, which is remarkable for its beautiful the statue of the Regent Margaret, placed here 1849. cupola, and also for its carved pulpit, representing
Mechlin also possesses a college, a public semithe temptation and fall of Adam and Eve. This
nary, the catholic university, as well as some church owes its origin to a miraculous image of societies for the cultivation of literature and the
he Virgin, which floated in a boat against the fine arts, The principal articles manufactured stream, until it arrived at the spot where the here, in addition to the lace which has been before ehurch now stands, when it approached the bank
mentioned, are leather, jewellery, all kinds of and remained firm; of course a sacred edifice to
woollen and cotton stuffs, hats, combs, pins, oil of enshrine the image was immediately built; and colza, and flax. There are also tan yards, dyeingequally, of course, the image repaid the devotion
houses, salt refineries, and factories for all kinds of the inhabitants by performing numerous and of work in copper and tin. John Bol, one of the stupendous miracles, which soon attracted pilgrims
earliest miniature painters, and Michael Coxcie, and offerings, sufficient to repay the expense to
an historical painter and pupil of Raphael, and which they had put themselves.
Frans Hals, were natives of this town. The boulebeing answered, the image no longer thought it
vards and ramparts afford pleasant walks, and are worth while to exert its miraculous powers to
the general rendezvous of the townspeople. There protect itself, and it was destroyed by sacrilegious
are two Fairs of fifteen days each, commencing the hands, when the town was pillaged, as above
first Sunday after the 1st day of July, and the mentioned. The church formerly belonging to the
second on the 1st of October, for all kinds of merJesuits, and still bearing their name, deserves
chandise; and on the Saint Saturday in October attention for its handsome Gothic front, and also
is a well-frequented horse and cattle fair. for a series of paintings, forming a history of St.
On leaving this station for Brussels the rail Francis Xavier, the Indian Missionary. In the church of St. John are four fine paintings, by
crosses the Louvain Canal. On the east of the
road between Malines and Vilvorde is seen the Rubens, representing the Adoration of the Magi,
chateau of Rubens at Stein, of which he was prothe Birth of Christ, the Descent from the Cross, and the Resurrection. This church has also some
prietor. fine wood sculpture, by Verhaegen, and a good
Vilvorde (Station). A small, healthy town, of pulpit, with a remarkable group by the sculptor, 5,200 inhabitants, situated between Malines and Duquesnoy.
Brussels. It is one of the most ancient in Belgium,
and is much visited by philanthropists desirous of The church of the Béguinage has some good paintings by Von Loon, Crayer, Quellyn, Soyer- inspecting the great prison or Penitentiary, built
in the suburbs of the town. The Church of Vilmans, &c., and a splendid ivory crucifix said to be
vorde contains some exquisite carvings in wood. the work of Duquesnoy.
In this town, Tindal, the first English translator The church of St. Catharine is chiefly remark- of the Bible, suffered martyrdom in 1536, crying able on account of its paintings, some of which
out, “Lord, open the King of England's eyes." are good, including an Adoration, by Morille, held
At present this little town has acquired considerin high estimation by Rubens.
able reputation, from its possessing an excellent The streets of Mechlin are wide and handsome, boarding-school for the education of young ladies; particularly that called Den Bruhl, in which is this establishment is conducted by Mademoiselles the splendid hotel belonging to the Commander Squilliers, and the concurrent testimony of innuof Pitzembourg, of the Teutonic order. It was merable Protestant families represent it as being inhabited both by Louis XIV. and Louis xv. one of the best and most irréproachable institutions The magnificent gardon s now opon to the public. on the continent.
The route on leaving the last station takes in Templeuve(Station). A town containing 3,000 the view of many beautiful country seats, spread
inhabitants. As we approach Tournay, we see to along the banks of the canal leading to Brussels. the right the village of Froyennes, the Faubourg de To the right, as we approach Brussels, is seen the Main, and the beautiful promenade of the Seven Palace of Laeken, belonging to the King of the Sisters, all forming a splendid panorama. AdBelgians, now the residence of the widow of the vancing on, the railway crosses the Scheldt by a Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. This palace was splendid viaduct of many arches. Look to the originally built for the Austrian Governor of the right; what an admirable entrance to the town! Netherlands. It was afterwards inhabited by A beautiful coup d'oeil is formed by the bridges, Napoleon, and is remarkable as being the place towers, houses, and rivers, all identified with somo where he planned his Russian campaign. It is historical event. The terminus is approached, enclosed by magnificent gardens and a park, and and we arrive at the station, on the Quay Escaut. is 3 miles from Brussels. The late queen, Louise
Tournay (Station). Marie, is buried here (1850). A statue of Madame
Hotels: De Belle Vue; De l'Imperatrice; Du Malibran is erected in the cemetery at Laeken, Singe d'Or. where she is buried, her husband having brought
A Belgian city, in the province of Hainault. her body from Manchester, at which place she
The town itself is indifferently built, and has died, to be interred here. The statue is by Geefs,
a gloomy aspect; it contains a population of and is placed in a kind of temple. A beautiful
31,923, who are engaged in the manufacture of and lengthy avenue of trees (l'allée vert) extends cotton and woollen stuffs. The workmen labour from Laeken to Brussels. The railroad traverses
at home, instead of in factories. Of the public the opposite side of the canal, and near the Botani- buildings, that of the Cathedral is the most cal Gardens, opposite the Rue Neuve at the Port celebrated; it is one of the most ancient and curious de Cologne, enters
in the country. The internal ornaments are numeBRUSSELS, see Route 6.
rous. The choir is of a remarkably bold and strikROUTE 2.
ing nature; the pulpit is a gem, by Gilis, and the
shrine of St. Eleu Marcus a masterpiece of workLille to Brussels.
manship in gold. There is also a beautiful gallery, Via Mouscron, Tournay, Ath, and Jurbise. by Lecroux, of Tournay, and four genii, the gems Distance, 84 English miles. The direct rail to
of the place, by Duquesnoy. The pictures are, a Tournay is við Blandain on the frontier.
Purgatory, by Rubens, and a Crucifixion, by Roubaix, Tourcoing, and Mouscron Sta
Jordaens. tions, described in previous route, are first passed.
The churches of St. Quentin, St. Piat, and St. At the latter place travellers for Tournay change
James are interesting specimens of the primitive carriages, and luggage is examined.
Gothic style. The Church of St. Nicholas de ChaLeaving MOUSCRON, we quit the line from that
teau is of remarkable architecture, and possesses place to Lille, and find ourselves on the branch
some fine pictures. one leading to Tournay. To the left is Herseaux, at the extreme point of the frontier, rising to the
Henry VIII. captured Tournay in 1518, and besouth-east by the province of Hainault, or Henne
stowed it upon Cardinal Wolsey, who yielded it gau in Flemish, into which the road enters, verg
up to Francis I., and persuaded his royal master ing for some miles towards the French frontier.
to sell the town to the French King, influenced by Leaving the village of Estampuis to the left, and
the promised interest of that monarch to obtain
his elevation to the papacy. that of Watreloos and its church to the right, both the latter of which are in France, the road passes
The Public Library contains 20,000 volumes, and the hamlets of Fournette, Jonquières, and Esetaim
several curious manuscripts.
The cabinet of bourg, the capital of a commune, and arrives at natural history, in the museum at the Hotel de Nechin (Station), a place of no importance. The
Ville, is worthy of notice. next place is
Post Office. --Rue Notre Dame.
Five miles south-east of Tournay, to the right | church of St. Vincent is believed to be the most of the post road to Ath, is the battle-field of Fon- ancient in Belgium; from its shape, and by the tenoy, seen immediately after passing the village style of its architecture, it is certainly one of the of Bourquembrays. In this spot was fought the most curious. The beautifully sculptured stalls battle between the English, Dutch, and Austrians, are worthy of notice. The college of Soignies is commanded by the Duke of Cumberland, and one of the most renowned in Belgium; it is still French under Marshal Saxe.
well attended. The principal trade carried on is Quitting Tournay, the following stations are in the quarrying of the stone, known as that of met with, none of which is of any importance:- Soignies. Havinnes, Bary-Maulde Lueze (where the
Post Office, near the church. lines from Renaix and Mons come in), and Ligne.
Braine-le-Comte (Station). Population, 6,220. After which we arrive at
A small ancient town of Hainault, in the district Ath (Station)-Inn: Cygno. Population, 8,135. of Mons. It is said that Brennus, the Gaul, 891 A fortified town on the Dendre, 21 miles from
years before Christ, founded a fortress and tower Tournay. A terrible fire in 1433, a hurricane in
upon the site of the present church. The parish 1600, and an earthquake in 1691, and other disas
church is deserving of notice. The stone tabertrous events, dismantled Ath of all her monuments,
nacle at the choir is a fine piece of sculpture, but &c. St. Julien's Tower and the Parish Church
much disfigured with gilding and painting. The alone escaped the conflagration. Ath sustained
front of the convent of the Dominicans is an elegant many deadly sieges. The fortifications constructed
structure. The principal hotel in Du Cygné. The in 1815 are strengthened with great care. At a manufactures are chiefly cotton spinning and short distance from Ath, on the direct line to lace thread spinning. On the right the line turns Brussels, við Hal (see below), is
off to Charleroi and Namur. Travellers, proceeding Enghien (Station). A town containing about direct to Namur and Liége, change
riages at 3,000 inhabitants. The beautiful park and gardens this station. surrounding the chateau of the Duke D'Aremberg,
The surrounding district here is celebrated for destroyed during the French Revolution, deserve
the superiority of its flax, the best grown anynotice. At Meslin l'Evêque, near Ath, the culti
where. It is employed in the manufacture of vation of the mulberry and silkworm has been
Brussels lace. To the north-west, a few miles introduced with much success. The Belioel, 6
distant, is STEENKERKE, the spot where the Duke miles from Ath, not far from the road, is famous
of Luxembourg defeated William III., with a loss as the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Ligneillustrious in the triple capacity of diplomatist,
of 7,000 men, in 1692. soldier, and author.
Quitting the last station, the railway pierces Maffles, Attre, Brugelette, Lens Stations,
the tunnel of Braine-le-Comte, and enters a deep are next met with, all near places of no importance. cutting, passing Heunnuyres, a commune of the
province of Hainault; and La Genette, where Jurbise (Station). A small commune, with a
Jean Jacques Rousseau died, in 1741, after which population of 700 souls. It is about 8 miles from
it arrives at Mons by railway. The country along from Jurbise to Braine-le-Comte is rather interesting.
Tubise (Station). A commune in the district
Here there is a correspondence with the railway from
of Nivellos, in the province of Brabant, with a Mons.
population of 2,500 souls. Soignies (Station).
Lembecq (Station). A town containing 2,300 Hotels: De l'Ange; des Voyageurs; des Trois inhabitants, with no objects of interest save its Rois.
old chateau and its numerous distilleries. Nothing The chief town of a canton of the province of worth notice presents itself after leaving the Hainault, in the district of Mons, with a popula- Tubise station. Crossing the Senne and the canal tiou of 6,800 souls. Its origin is ancient. The Charleroi, we next arrive at
to 5 hours. Fifteen miles south, the light of DunHotels: Des Pays Bas; Duc de Brabant.
kirk is seen, before the Ostend one shews itself. A pretty village of 7,815 inhabitants, built Two jetties flank the Ostend harbour, which is partly on the Senne, and on the canal Charleroi, dry at low water, and form very nice promenades. having no objects of particular interest, save the The Passport and Custom House Offices are church of St. Mary, celebrated as possessing a quite close to the harbour, and open daily at 5 a.m., miracle-working image of the Virgin. It is of in summer, so that tourists wishing to proceed on wood, two feet high, and has acquired immense their route need not be delayed. A Commissionaire wealth by pious offerings, including gold plate will be always found at hand to attend to one's given by Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius passport and secure places, for whose services a II., &c. A side chapel contains 33 cannon balls, couple of francs will be demanded. aimed, it is said, at the church, and caught by Travellers going direct from Ostend to Cologne the Virgin in her mantle, which she had spread can avoid the necessity of having their baggage over the town to protect it during a bombardment.
searched here by declaring it for transit, and deThe high altar deserves special notice, it being livering it over to the care of a railway official, one of the most beautiful in Belgium, made of
who is to be found at the Custom House. On marble, and sculptured, it would seem, by Italian
arrival at Cologne it will be delivered up on the artists. Below is the tabernacle, and underneath production of the ticket. St. Martin dividing his cloak. The Seven Sacra
Ostend (Station).-Hotels: ments are represented on the bas-reliefs, admirable
Hotel Fontaine, highly recommended, very con. works of art, at the lower rows, and the entire
veniently situated, near the sea and barbour. It construction is surmounted by a pelican. The
has a splendid dining-room. gorgeous font, of brass, cast at Tournay, by the
Bath Hotel: an old-established first-class hotel. artist Lefevre, in 1467, is worth seeing. It is
Recommended. placed in the octagon baptistry of the church, and
The Ship Hotel, a comfortable house, situated on is covered with a spire, adorned by statues, and
the Quai. Moderate charges. groups representing the Baptism of Christ, St.
English Private Family House, 13, Rue Louise, Martin, &c.
close to the sea-side. Moderate charges. W. C. At Hal, the direct line from Lille, viâ Enghien,
Wiltcher, proprietor. falls in. Leaving it, we pass the village of Ey
Resident English Consul. singham, and crossing the Senne, arrive at
English Church Service.-In Rue Longue. Loth (Station), about 5 miles from Brussels.
Exchange Office.-Suffell's. It has a very fine church, richly ornamented, and having over the high altar a painting (the Martyr
Ship Brokers.--Messrs. R. St. Amour and Son.
Omnibuses attend the arrival of each train. dom of St. Peter) by De Crayer.
The Harbour of Ostend is formed by a natural Quitting Loth, the railway runs parallel with
inlet of the sea, which has forced a passage between the canal Charleroi, passes Ruysbroeck and Forest
two sand-hills. The south-western bank, or beach, stations. After which, it leaves the suburb of
is of a triangular shape, and possesses some degree St. Gillis, crossing the gate of Hal on the left, the
of elevation above high-water mark, and the surboulevard, and arrives at the south station,
rounding country, so that, at half tide, it is comentering
pletely peninsulated; and on this bank the town is Brussels-(Route 7).
built. ROUTE 3.
Ostend is a strongly fortified town, containLondon to Brussels, via Dover, Ostend, ing 17,340 inhabitants, and is placed between the Bruges, Ghent, and Malines.
sea and the harbour, being surrounded by water London to Dover-(Route 1).
on every side, and enclosed with ramparts. The Mail steamers leave Dover for Ostend at 9-45 a.m. land all round is low, and the waters have to be and 10-45 p.m. The distance from port to Port is controlled by sluices. It sustained a memorable 63 English miles, and the voyage is made from 41 siege of 3} years' duration, between 1601 and 1604;