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Route-Mountain Pass-Wad-el-Ash -Hints to the Traveller-
Nomadic Arab Tribes-Partridges and Grouse-Return to Khe-
neh-Seizure of our Boatmen for the Nizam-Visit to Girgeh-
Apprehension of the Delinquents-The Bastinado-Town of
Akhmin-Minieh-Return to Cairo. . 35
--
CHAPTER III.
Departure for Suez-The Ras el Wadi, or Wadi Toumlet-Traces
of the Canal of the Ptolemies-Salt Lake - Disagreeable Pickle
- Wells of Adjeroud-Suez- Fortifications - Population, &c.
-Canal connecting the Red Sea with the Nile-Market of Suez
-Climate-Anchorage-Trade-Difficult Navigation of the Gulf
of Suez-Steam communication with India-Difficulty of Main-
taining it at all Seasons - Advantages of the Line by the Red
Sea over that by the Euphrates-Proposed Line by Kosseir-
Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites - Failure of all At-
tempts to disprove the Miracle-Land of Goshen-March of the
Jews-Return to Cairo- Observations on the Line of the pro-
jected Rail-road
CHAPTER IV.
. 67
Form of Government-Character of Mohammed Ali-Former State
of the Country-Difficulties to Overcome in Effecting Improve-
ments—Unwarrantable Abuse of Foreigners-Parallel of Mo-
hammed Ali and Napoleon-System of Administration—Ameliora-
tions Effected-Council of State-Faulty Position of the Viceroy
of Egypt in his Intercourse with the Diplomatic Agents of the
European Powers-Errors in his Foreign Policy-The Advantage
of his Ceding Canada to Great Britain-Policy of England towards
Mohammed Ali-Views of Russia-Necessity of Increasing the
Power of Egypt to counteract them-Feebleness of Persia-
Policy of Recognising the Independence of Egypt, and of Guar-
ranteeing the Succession of Ibrahim Pasha to the Throne . 100
Character of Ibrahim Pasha-His Conduct in Syria-In the Morea
-Popularity of Mohammed Ali - Grievances of his Subjects
Difficulties he has to contend against Wasteful Expenditure of
Money on the Wild Schemes of Foreign Adventurers - Project
to throw a Damn across the Nile-Railroads-Concluding Remarks
upon the system of Government
-
CHAPTER VI.
140
Revenues of Egypt-Taxes-Expenditure-Government Monopo-
lies-Necessity of retaining many of them, in the present state of
the Country-Agricultural System-Extent of Land susceptible
of Cultivation-Productions of Egypt-State of her Commercial
Relations with other Countries-Imports and Exports-Amount
of Population – Different nations composing it - State of the
Fellahs as compared with the Peasantry of other Countries-
Paupers-Good effects resulting from the Establishment of Manu-
factories-Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants-Education
of the Lower Orders-Arts and Sciences-Music-Gradual Im-
provement in the Condition of the Inhabitants—Anecdote of the
March of Mind, and of the drag upon it-Smoking.
CHAPTER VII.
156
First Attempt of Mohammed Ali to Organize the Army of Egypt on
the European Model - Revolt of the Troops-War with the Wa-
habees- Expedition to Senaar Formation of the Nizam, and
Dispersion of the Janizaries and Albanians- Renewal of Hostili-
ties with the Wahabees-Excellent Conduct of the new Levies-
War in the Morea - Uninterrupted Success of the Arab Army-
Affair of Mylos-Siege of Missolonghi-War in Syria-Strength
and Composition of the Present Egyptian Army-Pay - Rations
-Conscription-Good Qualities of the Fellah-Dress of the
Troops― Remarks on the Efficiency of the Army, &c.—Sulieman
Pasha
. 195
Public Schools-Encouragement given by Mohammed Ali to the
Education of the Lower Orders-Artillery and Naval College at
Tourah-Cavalry School at Ghizeh-Medical and Veterinary
College at Abouzabel-Disadvantage under which it labours
from the want of a common Language between the Professors
and Students-Instance of a Dragoman's free Translation-Con-
cluding Remarks on the College-Clot Bey.
CHAPTER IX.
230
Voyage to Candia A Health Establishment ill-adapted to the
Establishment of Health-Fine View from the Lazaretto Mole-
A Sicilian Guardiano Description of the Island of Crete - Its
Population-City of Candia-Mustapha Pasha - Difficulty in
procuring Horses-Departure for Canea - Villages of Defnes,
Evegenichi, and St. Tomas - View from the Summit of the Pass
on the Eastern side of Mount Ida- Change in the appearance of
the Country - Agius Decca — Ruins of Gortyna - Road to the
Celebrated Cretan Labyrinth — Description of that" Wonder of
the World"-Arrival at Apodoulo
CHAPTER X.
248
Journey Continued - Convent of Asomatos-Mountain Pass
Beautiful Scenery-Execrable Road-Villages of Keriana, Adil,
and Maroulas-Arrival at Retimo-Description of that Town-
Citadel-Population-Trade-Provincial Council-Departure for
Canea-Dangerous Road-Armyro-Mineral Waters-Splendid
Scenery-Neo Horio-The Capo's House-The Ridiculous and
the Sublime Day of Waterloo-Bay of Suda — Arrival at
Canea-Description of the Town-Great Increase of its Popula-
tion :
. 281
CHAPTER XI.
Trade of Candia-Productions - Exports and Imports - Injurious
Consequences of the total want of Inland Communication - Re-
venue-
e-Taxes-Greek Church Establishment-Price of Labour
and Provisions-Character of the Inhabitants-Wretched Condi-
tion of the Island-Summary Account of the State of Candia dur-
ing the War in Greece-Effects of the Battle of Navarin-Can-
dia given up to Mohammed Ali-Insurrectionary Movement
Desertion of Osman Pasha-Form of Government-The acquisi-
tion of the Island not beneficial to Egypt - Advantages its Pos-
session holds out to Great Britain-Conclusion . 313