middle in water to get books. The word of the Lord is precious here. We found, in the possession of some lads, a few fragments of the translation of the New Testament, so dirty with use as to be scarcely legible, but preserved with the greatest care. One of them, having learned to write a little, and got some paper, had begun to multiply copies. I was particularly affected with the last passage transcribed, and earnestly prayed that it might be verified in the case of these interesting and promising young men :

"He that hath begun a good work in you, will perform it until the day of Christ." (Phil. i. 6.) I suppose ours was the first vessel that ever visited the Sound on an errand of mercy to the natives.

The next place we visited was Mana, an island about three miles in length from north to south, rising abruptly from the sea to an elevation of about one hundred feet, except at the northern point of the eastern side, which gradually slopes to the edge of the water. It is three miles distant from the main of the North

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ern Island. The landing is tolerably good, and there are some native settlements along the coast. Mr. Bell, who originally purchased the property from the natives, is dead; and it is now in the possession of Mr. Peterson, of Sydney. The natives, however, have the right of residence, and the run of the land, so as to build houses, and plant potatoes, wherever they please. The island is more adapted for pasturage than cultivation. There are upon it five hundred sheep, and thirty head of cattle, the property of Mr. Peterson. It was evening when we came to anchor, but, understanding that the Rouparaha, who is the E Ongi, or Shungi, of this part of the country, was on the island, we went on shore. house in which we found him was larger than the generality of native habitations; but the space which served for door, window, and chimney, was so low and narrow, that it was all we could do, crawling on our hands and knees, to get through it. Two large tubs of oil stood at each end of the apartment, with immense burners, filling the place with smoke, and rendering darkness visible. About thirty natives, warriors and slaves, were laid at full length, in various directions, on the floor. The place was hot as a stove, with an atmosphere so thick and impure, as to be scarcely breathable. The Chief expressed himself as glad to see us, pressed us to sit near him, and wished to enter into a long conversation; but after singing and prayer, we were glad to make our exit,

giving him to understand, that at our next meeting we would more fully state the object of our visit. The old man has been a great warrior, and is notoriously vicious in his habits. He sometimes lays his hand upon his stomach, and says, “I am hungry for a man: go and kill such a slave for me." On one occasion, some little time ago, a young woman having offended him, he ordered her to prepare a native oven, which being finished, he had her killed and cooked in it. The next morning he came on board to breakfast, and behaved with great propriety. He said, if he might have a Missionary, he would give over fighting, and with all his people would begin to serve God. We presented him with a copy of the New Testament, and left him one of our most pious and clever lads as a Teacher. I trust the young man, whose name is Paul, will maintain his integrity, and be a burning and a shining light.

After a pleasant run of twelve miles, we came to Kapiti, or Entry-Island. It is higher and more extensive than Mana; but, apparently, less valuable, being thickly wooded, and much broken by deep gullies, and dark ravines. There are upwards of eighty white men connected with the whaling establishments of the neighbourhood. The natives are scanty and scattered, and more barbarous than the generality of their countrymen. The influenza has been prevalent lately, and they have obstinately refused to take medicine; in consequence of which many have died. Instead of nursing their sick, they remove them into the bush to die, Truly the dark places of the earth are still full of the habitations of cruelty.

We

The Haupapa, or Mount-Egmont, which is said to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, presented a most splendid appearance, being girded with clouds and capped with snow. spent a few hours at Ngamotou or Moturoa, the Sugar-loaf Islands of Captain Cook. They are curiously-formed rocks, separated from the main land, and inaccessible except by water. One of them, the largest and most singular of the cluster, rising almost perpendicularly to an elevation of about two hundred feet, is the site of a native settlement. Round about the rock are numerous ridges and holes, either of primitive formation, or produced by the operation of time, which serve as terraces and habitations for the singular people who have chosen it as their craggy home. The fences, on the top and sides, appeared like reeds shaken with the wind. It is said there is water, but no fuel for fire, and no food for sus

tenance. We called at the base of the mountain, but could not land, on account of the breaking of the surf. Several natives came down to speak with us, but they were armed with muskets, and evidently afraid we had visited them for purposes of war and desolation. We stated our object, gave them some books, and returned to the ship. We went on shore at Taranaki, but could not spend much time in exploring the country, as there was no secure shelter for the vessel; and, the wind being fair, we were anxious to prosecute our voyage. Taranaki has long been renowned for its rich and prolific soil; there are thousands of acres of beautiful country, unbroken by mountains, and unencumbered by forests, fit at once for the plough of the husbandman. The superior quality of the soil is unequivocally demonstrated by the luxuriance of the vegetation with which it is overspread. Various vegetables, the seeds of which may have been promiscuously scattered, are flourishing in as good condition, as though they were most assiduously cultivated. Taranaki has long been famous, in the history of New-Zealand, for its numerous population. The soil, without much labour, producing abundance of food, the natives multiplied, and excelled in the manufacture of mats and other articles of value. These advantages rendered them the objects of the perpetual jealousy and envy of the other tribes of the island, who so relentlessly and repeatedly waged war against them, and so frequently and completely conquered them, that the land is now well nigh left without inhabitants. The remnants and fragments that remain, scattered and peeled, have been obliged to seek for shelter on the tops of mountains, and in the holes of rocks. Numerous ruined fortifications and desolated villages are pointed out to the traveller, as the melancholy monuments of the ravages of war. O when will the time come, when the interesting aborigines of this beautiful country will beat their swords into ploughshares, and their spears into pruning-hooks, and become the free and happy subjects of the Prince of peace! We were much disappointed in finding no good harbour in the neighbourhood of Taranaki. From Kapiti to Kawia, a distance of two hundred miles, there are no bays for shelter, and no ground for anchoring ships. This materially detracts from the value of the locality as a place for commerce. If the land should become the property of European settlers, supplies of goods must be conveyed an im

mense distance over-land, which will be both difficult and expensive.

When we came to anchor in the Kawia harbour, our engagement with the Captain terminated; and, without regret, we quitted the little vessel, in which we had experienced many mercies, and had likewise been exposed to many perils, and subjected to many privations. We were heartily welcomed at the Mission-house, by Mr. and Mrs. Whiteley. It is a privilege which none but those who go down to the sea in ships, and do business in the great waters, can properly estimate, after a tedious and perilous voyage, to return to the security and comfort of domestic life. Well is it said in one of the Psalms, "They shall be glad because they are quiet, so thou bringest them to their desired haven."

Kawia is half a mile broad at the entrance, with about three fathoms' water on the bar. There are many sand-banks and mud-flats in the river, which are uncovered at low water. Several small streams of fresh water run into the principal channel. The banks are partly rocky and sandy, and partly covered with fern and timber, presenting here and there a beautiful patch of sloping land ready for cultivation. The natives chiefly reside in the luxuriant valleys, and by the tributary streams which are connected with the harbour. There are two or three Europeans on the river, who are friendly with the Missionary, and favourable to the spread of Christianity.

The Mission at Kawia was commenced in May, 1835, under the patronage and protection of Haupokia, a renowned warrior and influential Chief. A piece of land had previously been purchased for a Missionary settlement, which, though not very extensive, is well situated. After twelve months' arduous labour and extreme peril, during which period a dwelling-house and chapel were erected, and an impression favourable to Christianity extensively produced upon the surrounding population, Mr. Whiteley, the Missionary, for certain reasons connected with the general work, was removed to another station. The Heathen raged, the people imagined a vain thing; and it seemed probable that the cause of truth and righteousness, so recently introduced, and so feebly operating, would come to a perpetual end. But a church had been formed, against which the gates of hell were not permitted to prevail; and when Mr. Whiteley returned, about six months ago, after an absence of upwards of three years, he found the house and chapel standing

together with a small number of Christian natives, the fruit of his former labours, walking in the fear of the Lord, and in the comforts of the Holy Ghost, who hailed his return as the messenger of the churches, and the lover of their souls. The work is prosperous and promising. The movements on Saturday indicated that the Sabbath was at hand. Multitudes of natives, from different places, some over the mountains on foot, and some by water in canoes, arrived at the settlement, to be prepared for keeping holiday. I was present while Mr. Whiteley took down the names of a large number of persons as candidates for Christian baptism: they were well recommended by their Leaders, as having met in class for some time, and given satisfactory proof of a work of grace upon their hearts. In the evening, Mr. Hobbs preached to a numerous and deeply-interested congregation. The Sabbath was a most interesting day. The chapel was crowded at all the services. Many were deeply affected. I assisted in the baptism of sixty-eight adults, male and female, who publicly renounced Heathenism, and professed their faith in the Christian's God. Many of them were parents; and, not content with consecrating themselves, they also gave their offspring to the Lord. Twentynine children were solemnly dedicated to the Triune Jehovah. Thus several households subscribed with their hands to the Lord God of Israel. It was a sight which an angel might stop in his flight to admire, and which Jesus would smile to behold. In the evening, I preached in English, to about half-adozen people; after which, we partook of the sacrament of the Lord's supper, and found it good thus to remember our divine Saviour.

During our sojourn at Mr. Whiteley's, it was proposed that we should go over to Mokou, to endeavour to prevent a war. Ngatapu, a Chief of some rank in the neighbourhood of Kawia, had gathered together his friends, and was going to seek satisfaction from Touni and Tariki, Chiefs of Mokou, for some insult they had offered to him. A few days before, an old Chief had remarked, in the presence of one of Mr. Whiteley's boys, that, if the Missionaries did not interfere, and effect a reconciliation, there would be such slaughter and bloodshed, that it would be difficult to find firewood to cook the multitudes that would be slain. It was a formidable under. taking, particularly in connexion with

the tremendous journey home which we had in prospect; but the object contemplated was so important, and the Christian natives were so anxious for us to interfere, that I knew not how we should be justified, as the Ministers of the Gospel of peace, if we refused to attempt, at least, to induce the people, to whom we were sent, to cast away their weapons of war, and learn to love as brethren, and so fulfil the law of Christ. We were a week in performing the journey; and, having to traverse dense forests, and climb rugged mountains, and cross extensive swamps, and ford deep rivers, in the midst of heavy rains and cold winds, the task was neither easy nor pleasant. At a heathen village called Padianiwaniwa, or " the Precipice of the Rainbow," we unexpectedly had the opportunity of witnessing some of the singular customs of the country. A man of our party, who was baptized the preceding Sunday at Kawia, by the name of Matiu, had, about twelve months before, lost four children. A man called Mahiri was reported to have occasioned their death by witchcraft; and so firmly did the bereaved father believe the report, that he determined to have the man's life as payment. Mahiri, however, escaped for his life to Padianiwaniwa, and was kindly received by the people, who built a small fortification for him, and cut off all communication between the two places by tapuing the road. The path had not been travelled from that period, and was, consequently, well-nigh lost amidst rank vegetation and luxuriant foliage. Tidings of our approach speedily circulated through the settlement, and Mahiri and his friends were much alarmed, and afraid that Matiu had come for utu, or "satisfaction." The parties met in due form, and after certain horrid grimaces, and hideous yells, together with a drawling ditty called singing, on the part of the Heathens, Matiu stood forth and said, "My words to you are about Jesus Christ. Let the matter be finished. Jesus Christ shall be the peacemaker between us." Thus a reconciliation was effected, and the whole ceremony concluded with a tangi and a feast. tangi is a "crying match," in which each tries to outdo his fellow in making frightful faces and uttering whimpering sounds. The feast was chiefly of potatoes, four bushels of which we saw cooked in one oven, besides large quantities of greens and Indian corn. Having nothing better, we were obliged to strike a tin dish with a stone, to call the people together for worship. It is to be hoped

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that the several religious services which we held, and in which all appeared to be much interested, may have been instrumental in inducing them to renounce their superstitions, and attend to the things which belong to their peace.

Having arrived at Padupadu, the residence of Touni and Tariki, we found them sitting in state, ornamented with white feathers, in barbarous taste, and surrounded by numerous other Chiefs, their friends; who had assembled from different places to help them on the great occasion. They were all Heathens; and said, they would resist every attack to death, to death, to death. While we were present, a message from the party seeking satisfaction was communicated to the council of war, which so excited the feelings of their savage nature, that in fierceness and defiance they distorted their faces into the most hideous forms, brandished their spears with the most menacing wildness, uttered the most horrid yells, and appeared more like incarnate fiends than human beings. By and by they simultaneously arose, and went to prepare cartridges and muskets for an engagement. It was, however, finally arranged, that we should endeavour to negotiate the business; and that if we could induce Ngatapu's party to avoid hostilities, and fire their muskets at a distance from the Pa, they would meet as friends. Mr. Whiteley immediately went to meet the advancing army, and, after a long conference with the warriors, succeeded in bringing them to the agreement, that, since we, the Missionaries, had interfered, they would not proceed to extremities. We, that is, I and Mr. Hobbs, remained with the threatened party; who, armed with muskets, hatchets, and spears, assembled upon the hill where the Pa is built, to await the arrival of the enemy. When Ngatapu's people came up, headed by Mr. Whiteley, they arranged themselves upon a hill opposite to that upon which the fortification stands. In the valley, between the two armies, waved the flag of peace, a white handkerchief tied to a pole, by the side of which, as the Ministers of reconciliation, we stood. I shall never forget the occasion: hundreds of savages, fighting men, appeared on either side, most of them naked, except their belt and cartridge. box, and all ready for action at a moment's notice. It was understood, that the circumstance of either party crossing the boundary, should be regarded by the other as the signal for immediate war. In the general rush, however, in which there was much savage violence, we succeeded in

keeping them apart. Then followed the firing of muskets among the surrounding hills, and a war-dance, which literally shook the ground on which we stood. From all we heard and saw of the spirit and temper of the respective tribes, the conviction is not to be resisted, that, had we not interposed, much blood would have been shed, and many lives would have been lost. It is probable, also, that the addresses which were delivered, and the devotional services which were conducted, during our visit, may have left a blessing behind them, which shall be found after many days.

In returning, we spent a Sabbath at Teitu, an extensive village in the midst of a dense forest; where the majority of the inhabitants, through the instrumentality of native Teachers, have embraced Christianity. They have built a commodious chapel, in which service is held, not merely on the Sabbath, but every day in the week. The place is so remote from Kawia, that Mr. Whiteley had not been able before to visit it. The services we held were interesting and profitable. Twenty-one couples were united in the bonds of holy matrimony; but, having no rings, these interesting appendages were necessarily dispensed with. Thirty chil dren and sixty-two adults, of both sexes, many of whom had met in class, from the period of Mr. Whiteley's removal from Kawia, which is several years ago, were baptized. It is likely our visit will never be forgotten by the young men and maidens, the old men and children, who, on that occasion, renounced Heathenism, and were solemnly baptized in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.

At Waingaroa we spent a few days. The situation of the Mission-station is excellent, and the population numerous. There is an extensive and very promising field of usefulness. William Naylor, Mr. Wallis's principal Chief, has been a savage warrior, but, having embraced the Gospel of Christ, has become as gentle as a child. At his village, a little way from the Missionary settlement, he has built the largest and most respectable place of worship I have seen in the country.

Waikato, Manukou, and Kaipara, lay in our way home; and at each place we met with many things worthy of notice and record; but having, I fear, already wearied you by the length of my details, I shall reserve any additional remarks Í may have to make, for some future communication.

Upon reaching Mangungu, we were