CHAPTER XV. OF SILK LEAVE LOONGHEE-EXTENSIVE ISLAND-KEEN- THE Shawbunder left Loonghee on the first of July, to announce our appproach to the Birman officers, who were already arrived at Pagahm. We postponed our departure until the following day, and at seven in the morning quitted this pleasing and rural place. In our journey we passed many towns and villages. Sometimes we went swiftly through the water, at others we were stationary, and even lost ground, as the wind frequently subsided, and the stream was very rapid. The range of Arracan mountains appeared to recede westward; and about three o'clock we came to a large island formed by separate arms of the river. There was a pyramidical temple on it, called Keendoo Praw, and several smaller ones raised on a high terrace. I estimated the extent of the island to be two miles. At the upper end we crossed the river, and stopped a mile above Meegheoung-yay, at past seven in the evening. Meegheoung-yay, or Crocodile Town, is a place of much trade and importance. There were not less than 100 large boats, and several smaller ones, lying at different stairs, which, my people said, were taking on board rice, onions, garlic, and oil, for the consumption of the capital. It stands on a very high bank, and has fewer religious buildings than any town we had seen of equal magnitude. Dr Buchanan went on shore at daybreak, and observed in his walk some neat farms, each of them containing four or five cottages, better built than houses in towns usually are. They were fenced round with wide inclosures to receive the cattle, of which there was great abundance. The fields were divided by thorn hedges. The low grounds prepared for rice, and the higher planted with leguminous shrubs, or left for pasture. Early on the 3d, we passed Meeinyah. Between that and Patanagoh, on the eastern shore, there was a sloping bank planted with indigo, which was then ripe, and the villagers were cutting it. Melloon, on the west side, seemed rich in temples, but the town was no way distinguished. Patanagoh had only one temple, which was splendidly gilded. It is a long straggling village, and every house had a comfortable garden, enclosed by a bamboo railing, with orchards of palmyra, plantain, and mango trees. Here, likewise, were many boats of burthen waiting to receive a cargo. Numerous villages were scattered along the banks, which, as the wind blew strong, and we were obliged to keep in the middle of the river, there was no opportunity of examining. This day we passed some sandy islands, and brought to early in the evening, on the eastern side, between the towns of Magway and Spanziek. I took a walk before tea, and could discover little cultivation in the vicinity of the river. The land was stony, and covered with low thorn trees, in which we saw jungle-fowl and other game. Herds of young cattle were grazing among the thickets. We crossed some cartroads, and met several pea sants. At daybreak next morning we set sail with a fair and steady wind, by the force of which the fleet stemmed a strong current. Low woody hills skirted the river, particularly on the eastern side. On the summits of some of these hills temples were raised; and one on the western bank, called Maynbu, appeared to be considerable. The river, except where it was interrupted by islands, could not be less than two miles across. We passed a village named Shoe-Lee-Rua, or Goldenboat Village, from its being inhabited by watermen in the service of the king, whose boats, as well as every thing else belonging to the sovereign, have always the addition of shoe, or golden, annexed to them. Even his majesty's person is never mentioned but in conjunction with this precious metal. When a subject means to affirm that the king has heard any thing, he says, It has reached the golden ears.' He who has obtained admission to the royal presence, has been at the golden feet. The perfume of otta of roses, a nobleman observed one day, was an odour grateful to the golden nose. Gold, among the Birmans, is the type of excellence. Although highly valuable, however, it is not used for coin in the country. It is employed sometimes in ornaments for the women, and in utensils and ear-rings for the men; but the greatest quantity is expended in gilding their temples, on which vast sums are continually lavished. The Birmans present the substance to their gods, and ascribe its qualities to their king. After passing various sands and villages, we got to Yaynangheoum, or Earthoil (Petroleum) Creek, about two hours past noon. The country now displayed an aspect differing from any we had yet seen. The surface was broken into small separate hills, entirely barren, and destitute of vegetation, except some stunted bushes that grew on the declivities, and in the dells, and a few unhealthy trees immediately in the neighbourhood of the villages. The clay was discoloured, and had the appearance of red ochre. We were informed, that the celebrated wells of Petroleum, which supply the whole empire, and many parts of India, with that useful product, were five miles to the east of this place. The Seree brought me a piece of stone, which he assured me was petrified wood, and which certain VOL. I. 2 c ly had much the appearance of it. In walking about, I picked up several lumps of the same, in which the grain of the wood was plainly discernible. It was hard, siliceous, and seemed composed of different lamina. The Birmans said it was the nature of the soil that caused this transmutation; and added, that the petrifying quality of the earth at this place was such, that leaves of trees shaken off by the wind were not unfrequently changed into stone before they could be decayed by time. The face of the country was altered, and the banks of the river were totally barren. The ground was superficially covered with quartz-gravel, and concreted masses of the same material were thickly scattered. The mouth of the creek was crowded with large boats, waiting to receive a lading of oil; and immense pyramids of earthen jars were raised within and round the village, disposed in the same manner as shot and shells are piled in an arsenal. This place is inhabited only by Potters, who carry on an extensive manufactory, and find full employment. The smell of the oil was extremely offensive. We saw several thousand jars filled with it ranged along the bank. Some of these were continually breaking, and the contents, mingling with the sand, formed a very filthy consistence. Mr Wood had the curiosity to walk to the wells; but, though I felt the same desire, I thought it prudent to postpone visiting them until my return, when I was likely to have more leisure, and to be less the object of observation. At seven in the morning, on the 5th of July, we left the neighbourhood of Earthoil Wells. After passing Pengkioum, where a small river unites with the Irrawaddy, the face of the country re |
