wash at low water. They have, at their edge, from four fathoms to five, six, and eight fathoms, and deeper in the middle of the harbour. The hills rise abruptly around this bay from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. . . . There is nothing to prevent a steamer, night or day, from proceeding to her wharf. About half way from Breaker Point to Goat Island, and near mid channel, is Whale Rock, with eight feet of water over it at low sea. It has a circumference of about fifty feet and breaks frequently. A buoy renders this danger harmless. The services of a pilot can never be required by anyone who has visited this port before, as the tradewinds from E.S.E. carry a vessel from near Breaker Point with a free sheet in a N.N.W. course into the harbour. It follows that vessels under canvas will have to work out, which, in the ebb tides with the trades, will generally be accomplished in a few tacks. The trouble is that a ship close into the reefs goes in stays, and frequently the whirlwinds off the high land baffle her a few points and prevent her tacking properly aback, whence a boat is kept at hand ready to tow her round upon the right tack. Mr. Powell, a missionary, has been a resident of this place twenty-two years, and never knew of a longer detention than nine days to any ship in that time, and of but one gale, which came from the eastward and unroofed a wing of his kitchen. Even the trades themselves are frequently liable to haul from the E.S.E. to E.N.E., giving a ship a chance to get out with a leading wind. At the different quarters of the moon the tide rises four and a half feet. On the top of the little island of Annu'u, to the east of Tutuila, at an elevation of 600 feet, a site for a lighthouse has been secured. As it can be seen alike from the north or south, and is right in a line with the ship's course in passing, being only seven miles from the entrance to Pangopango bay or harbour, the ships could pick up the port-lights, and go in immediately to the wharf on the darkest night. There are several fine harbours for schooners on both sides of Tutuila. The Americans were not slow to recognise the importance of this 2 harbour as a naval station, and in 1878 Captain Meade, commanding the U.S.S.Narragansett,' entered into an agreement with Manga, the representative chief of Tutuila, by which it was arranged that Pangopango should be given up to the American Government on condition that a friendly alliance existed between that island and the United States. Pangopango harbour has thus passed for ever from the hands of the British. The question here that naturally arises, is, why did not England secure its possession? Tutuila did not want England's protection,' replies a would-be critic. Such an assertion is, however, untrue. So long ago as 1843, the chiefs of this island petitioned for British protection. Two years later a reply was received from Lord Clarendon, who refused to protect, but promised through the British Consul that no other Power should be allowed greater authority in the island than Great Britain. How that promise has been kept, I shall leave my readers to judge. In March 1872 the following commercial regulations relating to the port of Pangopango were drawn up, signed by Manga and recognised on the part of the United States Government by Captain Meade. 1. All foreign Consuls duly appointed shall be protected and respected both in their persons and property, and all foreigners settling on the island, as far as under the jurisdiction of the chief and conforming to the laws, shall receive the protection of the Government. 2. The fullest protection shall be given to all foreign ships and vessels which may be wrecked, and any property saved shall be taken in charge by the Consul of the country to which the vessel belongs, who will allow salvage on the property so saved; no embezzlement will be permitted. The effects of all foreigners deceased will be given up to the Consul of the nation of the person so deceased. 3. Every vessel entering Pangopango shall pay a port charge to the chief, to be regulated by agreement between the chief, the agent of the California and Australian Steamship Company and the foreign Consuls. Pilots shall be appointed by the same persons, the agent of the Steamship Company to be the Pilot Commissioner ex officio, and the charge for pilotage for men-of-war and merchant vessels to be $1 per foot of draft and $1 per day for detention on board. Where pilots are declined, half-pilotage will be paid. Each pilot to be furnished with a copy of Pilot Regulations, and to show the same to the master of each vessel which he may bring into port. 4. No work shall be done on shore, nor shall any natives be employed on board vessels, on Sunday under a penalty of $10, except under circumstances of absolute necessity, such as aid in case of the wreck of a vessel, or the coaling of steamships obliged to proceed on time on the voyage north or south. 5. All trading in distilled or spirituous liquors, or any kind of intoxicating drink, is absolutely prohibited; any person so offending shall be fined $100 on conviction before a mixed court, composed of U.S. Consul, H.B.M. Consul, and the Chief of the bay. All such liquors found on shore and kept for sale or barter in any way shall be seized and destroyed. If any native be found intoxicated and riotous he shall pay a fine of $10. 6. Any person found guilty of offering inducement to a native female to prostitute herself to a foreigner to pay a fine of $10. 7. Deserters shall be apprehended by the Chief on application to him through the Consul, to whom they must be delivered. The usual rewards required by regulation to be paid by merchant-men; one-third to go to the Chief. 8. All fines to be paid in specie or its equivalent, or be commuted at the rate of one month's labour on roads, &c., for $10. 9. Should any master of any merchant vessel refuse complying with the local regulations the case to be referred to the Consul of the nation to which the vessel belongs and redress sought thence. (Witness) RICHARD W. MEADE, Commander. (Signed) O AU o Manga. The foregoing rules have been signed by the Chief in my presence. I shall forward a copy of the same with my approval to the U.S. Government for the information of all masters of vessels visiting Pangopango. (Signed) RICHARD W. MEADE, Commander U.S.S. 'Narragansett.' A mile south-east of Tutuila is the diminutive island of Annu‘u, with a coast line of barely five miles. The Manu'a group, consisting of three islands, lies about sixty miles east of Tutuila. Ta'u, the largest of these, about sixteen miles round, has a most uneven surface, owing to a number of extinct volcanoes. Its highest peak is 2,500 feet. Ofu, the smallest of the three, is separated from Ta'u by the island of Olesenga, a narrow strip of land, three miles long, and 1,200 feet above the level of the sea. The climate of Samoa is good. June and July are the coolest, and September and October the hottest, months in the year. March is the most variable. A breeze is generally blowing, so the temperature is never actually unpleasant. It ranges between 70° and 80°. Hurricanes are the exception, and vegetation continues without intermission all the year round. Nearly every kind of tropical fruit is produced. Cotton and copra 3 are the chief exports. Formerly the natives used to prepare the cocoa-nut oil themselves, but now they send the copra to Europe direct, where it finds an easy market. The word Samoa is derived from Moa, the hereditary name of the King of Manu'a, and the supposed progenitor of all these islands, and the particle Sa, which prefixed to a proper name means in the Samoan language the family of,' from which we may conclude that it means the family of Moa.' 6 The constitution of the Manu'a islands is monarchical, the royal title being 'King of All Samoa.' Tutuila, on the other hand, has au aristocratic form of government, which is vested in a council of ten chiefs called Fale-Anga-fulu, or the ten houses. The remaining islands had always been under the dominion of two royal dynasties called respectively Malietoa and Tupua, which are the surnames in use to this day. Previous to 1873 these rival royalties were constantly fighting against each other for supremacy, but in May of that year, by the good offices of the missionaries, hostilities ceased and peace was proclaimed. It is to the missionaries that Samoa owes its present state of civilisation. They have done more actual good for the natives than any other body of men. Not only have they Christianised a people who formerly knew not God, but, by mastering a language hitherto unknown to Europeans, they have initiated an education which has had the effect of vastly increasing the commerce of these islands. While steering clear of political squabbles they are ever ready in the interests of peace and justice to act as mediators in native quarrels, or to aid the representatives of foreign Powers in maintaining law and order. No wonder they view with alarm the increasing influence of Germany, and the probable sacrifice of their energies to a nation that has sown no seed, yet is endeavouring to reap the harvest. During the civil war the natives bartered land to the German traders for arms and ammunition. And in some cases the price given was only equal to one shilling and sixpence an: acre. The Polynesian Land and Commercial Company effected some very good bargains also. In May 1873, by the aid of the European residents, a new form of government was set up on the lines of the British Constitution--consisting of a House of Representatives called the Faipule, corresponding somewhat to our House of Commons, and a House of Nobles called the Taimua, resembling the House of Lords, with the two kings Malietoa and The kernel of the cocoa-nut cut into small pieces and dried in the sun. Tupua as joint kings-which was officially recognised by Great Britain and America. About this time the United States Government sent out Colonel Steinberger'in the capacity of special agent, to make observation and report upon the character and condition of their inhabitants.' 4 I am unable to obtain a copy of Colonel Steinberger's Report, but that it was favourable may be gathered from the following letter, which appointed him the second time to proceed to Samoa as special agent of the United States. It is an important document, as it clearly shows anxiety on the part of the Samoans for annexation, and at the same time accurately defines Colonel Steinberger's position. Col. A. B. Steinberger, Washington, D. C. Department of State, Washington, 11 Dec. 1874. Sir, The President having determined to authorise you again to proceed to the Samoan group, in the character of a special agent of the United States, you will embark for those islands at San Francisco in a man-of-war, on board of which the Secretary of the Navy has been requested to direct you to be provided with a passage. The expense attending this and of your mission generally must be borne by yourself, and will in no event be recognised as a proper charge against this Government. Pursuant to the suggestions contained in your letter from Baltimore, of the 19th of November last, the President has addressed the accompanying sealed communication to the Taimua or Pule of Samoa, a copy of which is also furnished for your information. You will make proper arrangements for presenting the original. The special passport with which you are also herewith provided describes your official character. I annex hereto a list of articles which have been furnished by several Departments, which will be entrusted to you as presents, as suggested by you. There is no doubt from your Report, and from information received from other sources, that the Samoan group is naturally fertile and has many resources. Its position, too, in the Pacific is commanding, and particularly important to us. It is more than doubtful, however, whether these considerations would be sufficient to satisfy our people that the annexation of those islands to the United States is essential to our safety and prosperity. In any event, supposing that the general sentiment should be favourable to such a measure, I am not aware that it has received such an expression as would require an acknowledgment by the present Government, and warrant measures on our part accordingly. It is deemed inexpedient without such a call from the public to originate a measure adverse to the usual tradition of the Government, and which, therefore, probably would not receive such a sanction as would be likely to secure its success. Under these circumstances your functions will be limited to observing and reporting upon Samoan affairs, and to impressing those in authority there with the lively interest which we take in their happiness and welfare. Enclosures. I am, Sir, your obedient servant, Letter of the President to Taimua or Pule, Dec. 11, 1874. Copy of same. Special permit. Extract from a letter received by S. S. Forster, Esq, Consul of the United States, Apia, from the United States Government. Dated Departinent of State, Washington. We have now arrived at the period in Samoan history from which date all recent complications that have arisen between this country and Germany regarding the administration of affairs in these islands. Two months before the contents of Steinberger's official appointment as special agent of the United States were written, we find him in Hamburg, entering into a mercantile agreement with Messrs. Godeffroy & Son, German merchants, to establish a government in Samoa, and to identify the interests of the Samoan Government with that of the establishment of this firm at Apia. This document has never before been made public, but so important are its contents as showing the power sought to be obtained by the German merchants in the Samoan islands that I feel it my duty to print it verbatim. Agreement between Col. A. B. Steinberger and Messrs. J. C. Godeffroy & Son of Hamburg for their establishment at Apia, Upolu, Samoa. 5 1. Col. A. B. Steinberger proceeds to the Samoan Islands as United States Commissioner in order to establish there a fixed and substantial government upon the principles of good administration. The advantages of such a fixed government are too evident, both for the welfare of the Samoan population and for the development of the rich resources of those islands. 2. Col. A. B. Steinberger, who by his future position at Samoa and the home endorsement will evidently exercise a paramount influence in the Samoan Islands, hereby pledges himself to the proper and legitimate interests of the establishment of J. C. Godeffroy & Son, at Apia, and to avoid all other business connections in toto in America, Europe, and Samoa. He will advise with the managers of the said establishment upon all important matters, especially where the welfare of the same is concerned. He will identify the interests of the Samoan Government with that of the establishment of J. C. Godeffroy & Son at Apia, and secure to the latter a representation commensurate with the importance of the said establishment's interests. 3. J. C. Godeffroy & Son promise, on behalf of their establishment at Apia, in every way to co-operate with Col. A. B. Steinberger in his laudable and humane purpose, to instruct their representative at Samoa heartily to assiet Col. Steinberger, and in every way, in his arduous task, viz. to keep upon good terms and to cultivate the intercourse with the missionaries, to keep a vigilant eye upon the behaviour of their vessels and crews on shore, &c. &c. 4. J. C. Godefroy & Son promise as soon as the established Government at Samoa is recognised by the United States of America, to use directly and through the German Consul at Apia all the influence they possess to promote the recognition of the Samoan Government by the German Empire, and to submit on behalf of their establishment at Apia in all differences and claims to the regular to-beestablished courts of justice in Samoa. In addition to the above general stipulations it has specially been agreed between Col. A. B. Steinberger and Messrs. J. C. Godeffroy & Son for their establishment at Apia. a. Col. Steinberger to procure for the establishment of J. C. Godeffroy & Son at Apia the Samoan Government's recognition or counter-signature of all land sales heretofore made to the managers of the same by the natives. It being understood, to that effect, a department of the interior and a general registry of land sales is to be created. 5 A copy of this agreement was found among the papers compromising Steinberger after his arrest, and was handed over to the American Consul. |
