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THE FRENCH LANGUAGE.

plainant-if not for the place of destination I pointed out, at all events from the room in which our conference took place yet, I was by no means prepared to witness the degree of satisfaction his countenance expressed on making his salaam-my surprise ceased only on learning afterwards what a turn had been given to my unpalatable words, in the polite mouth of Signor

The inconvenience caused by the want of a common language between the instructor and his pupils will, in some degree, be overcome by the attention now paid at Abouzabel to the study of the French language, for which there are three professors.

The situation of the college is, perhaps, as good as any that could have been selected in Egypt. The students are sufficiently removed from the distractions of the capital (distant about seventeen miles) without being beyond the personal observation of the Viceroy-and in no country more than in Egypt is shown the truth of the Spanish proverb, that "el ojo del amo, engorda al cavallo." *

The Master's eye fattens the horse.

SITUATION OF ABOUZABEL.

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As an hospital, Abouzabel possesses the advantages of being on a good carriage-road, and of enjoying a freer circulation of air, than could be had in any part of the valley of the Nile; whilst, at the same time, it is slightly removed from the sandy desert, and elevated above the level of the Delta. From the baneful Khampseen wind, it would have been vain to seek for shelter any where in Egypt.

In every respect, this establishment does credit to Clot Bey, its projector and superintendent- however much envious Franks may sneer at his crimson trowsers and red morocco boots.

248

DEPARTURE FOR CANDIA.

CHAPTER IX.

Voyage to Candia A Health Establishment ill-adapted to the Establishment of Health - Fine View from the Lazaretto MoleA Sicilian Guardiano - Description of the Island of Crete - Its Population - City of Candia-Mustapha Pasha - Difficulty in procuring Horses-Departure for Canea - Villages of Defnes, Evegenichi, and St. Tomas - View from the Summit of the Pass. on the Eastern side of Mount Ida- Change in the appearance of the Country Agius Decca · - Ruins of Gortyna - Road to the Celebrated Cretan Labyrinth-Description of that " Wonder of the World"-Arrival at Apodoulo.

ON leaving Egypt, it had been the intention of my friend D and myself to proceed by way of Smyrna to Constantinople; but the appearance of the plague at both those places obliged us to alter our course, and Candia lying conveniently on our route to the Morea, we thought a few weeks might be agreeably passed in a visit to that interesting island. A homeward-bound English merchant brig presented a favourable opportunity for carry

A HEALTH ESTABLISHMENT.

249

ing our wishes into effect, the skipper tempted by a liberal offer-engaging to land us at any port in the island that he could most readily make.

An obstinate Etesian wind inflicted on us a tedious passage of nine days, in the course of which our eyes were successively regaled with distant views of the fine bold coasts of Rhodes and Scarpanto, and the magnificent mountain ranges on the terra firma beyond. We reached, at length, the port of Candia, and, on casting anchor, learnt, to our dismay, that a "health establishment" had recently been formed there; indeed, the display of bright yellow flags, iron tongs, palisadoes, and fumes of sulphur, sufficiently declared that it was in the full vigour of youth, and consequently held out the prospect of our being subjected to an unusually strict antipestilential surveillance. By way of consolation—or temptation-we were informed, however, that, if we determined on landing, seven days would be the extent of our sanatory imprisonment.

There was no help for it: we must either submit or proceed on to Malta, where a worse fate would have befallen us; we disembarked, therefore, and were forthwith conducted to the Lazaretto, in which we were assured every attention should be paid to our comfort. Nothing could be more libellous than that term, as applied to the accommodation the place afforded-namely, a dark unventilated cell, on the bare walls of which rheumatism, catarrh, pleurisy, and consumption were written in ever-trickling streams of water.

We had fortunately brought hammocks and a tent, which rendered us in a great measure independent of the unwholesome den allotted for our use; and brandy and tobacco, which enabled us to counteract the effects of its damp walls and the night dews. From the town we procured tables and chairs, as well as all things needful to satisfy our wants, and, on the whole, I am not sure but that I should prefer being again immured within the old Venetian galley docks of Candia, to incarceration in any other Lazaretto, of which, in