Billeder på siden
PDF
ePub

wood, it swims very buoyant. These logs are from twenty to forty feet long, and from fifteen inches to two feet diameter; and secured by small spars lashed across, which keeps them a little distance apart. There is a crib work raised in the middle, four feet high, to secure the mast which are stepped in the bottom logs. There is also a short bowsprit rigged out at one end, and a large square sail a little narrowest at the head, which is set by means of a yard made fast to it, and the halyards attached to the yard one third of the distance from the end, the longest part of the yard above and abaft the mast; the foot of the sail being wider than the head; one corner, or the tack of it, is hauled down to the end of the bowsprit, and the other corner is hauled aft in the manner of a ship's main sheet. They are steered by means of large slabs that are put through between the logs, that hold the water like lee boards. In this kind of craft, they beat to windward for many degrees up, sail down the coast, and stretch off from the land sometimes thirty or forty miles. This is the principal craft that the Indians have to transport any thing by water with. They have likewise a skin which they fill with wind, on which they sometimes go off to catch fish. Two of these skins are fixed by lashing them together, and placing a small board acros them, on which they paddle off a mile or two, and catch fish quite comfortably; these are always called bollsys, and the large kind made of logs, are sometimes called by the same name. The Indians go over to the Lobos Islands at particular seasons in great numbers with their bollsys on a fishing trip, stay one or two weeks, and always behave with the greatest propriety and civility. They were very kind to me, and would often bring vegetables from the main. They were obliged to bring fresh water for their own use, as these islands do not afford any, or any kind of vegetable; all their surface being sand, sun burned rocks, and thousands of ship loads of bird's feces. There are here, as on many other islands, vast numbers of different kinds of oceanick birds, the most of which are fit for no other use but that of eggs and manure. There was one kind however, that I never saw before, which were an excellent eating bird; we called them razor-bills, as their bills resembled that instrument more than any thing I could compare them with; the upper part of it was seven or eight inches

long, the under one two inches shorter, shaped like a two edged sword, and the two edges when brought together, came exactly edge to edge, so that any thing could be held between them as well as with a pair of shears. At the upper part next the head, they are so shaped as to form a mouth like other birds. The colour of this bird is black, and are a sand bird. They are always in flocks, and are shy and not very plenty. They are as large as one of our teal.

The land is moderately elevated, having large plains of level white sand, on which the larger birds form rookeries, which to view with a spy glass at a distance had a pleasing appearance, and gave rise to a comparison that was made use of by our people ever after, viz. Bonaparte's and Suwarrow's armies. One kind of them are called boobies, and always keep together in rookeries. They have a very white breast and neck, and also round the fore part of its head, running round by the eyes. The back part of its head and back is black, which gives it a millitary appearance at a distance: these we called Bonaparte's army. The other kind were peleans, extraordinarily large, which keep likewise together in rookeries, although the pelicans in general lay their eggs in nests on trees and in bushes; these we called Suwarrow's army. They move about, holding up their heads, making a drolt and majestic appearance, sometimes in perfect order. The sight of them was very amusing, and helped to beguile a dull moment of anxious thoughts.

All the coast from Lima down to these islands is more sun-burnt and barren than that nearer the city, and has a white appearance whilst sailing by it, which ever denotes barrenness. The course is about north west by north, running along nearly a strait coast, keeping four or five leagues from the land, on account of a number of small islands that lie along the coast near the shore. To the northward of the Lobos Islands there makes off a point of land to the westward, as far as any land on the west coast of America, from its most extreme south cape to the latitude of 6° 40′ north. The nearest latitude of this point is 6° 10' south. After passing it to the northward the land turns directly round to the eastward and forms a deep bay where there is some very small Indian settlements; but it is not a good place to anchor, or to procure any refreshments.

On passing to leeward another point makes its appearance out to the westward in latitude 5° 10' south. Behind it to the northward stands the little town of Paita, in latitude 5o 00 south, on the south side of the bay, which sometimes affords supplies of fruit and vegetables; but not very plentifully, as all this coast is barren, not having much soil. On passing down to leeward the next projecting land to the westward lies in latitude 4° 40′ south, nearest, and after passing it the gulf of Guayaquil opens, which is a deep bay that makes in to the eastward fifteen or twenty leagues, and is two leagues wide from north to south, making into a river at the bottom of it, on which stands the town, bearing the same name with the gulf. It is the first port for ship building on all the west side of America. It furnishes a great quantity of cocoa, and many other articles of produce for exportation. It is a growing country, as the rains begin hereabouts, on passing along the coast to the northward. The north side of the gulf is formed by a point of land that runs off to the westward a long way, and is called Point St. Helena. It lies in latitude about 2° 12′ south, and is the same latitude with the town of Guayaquil. The town and river of Tumbez lie on the south side of this gulf, but it is not much of a port for any kind of business, or any great place for refreshment. All the bay is like the rest of the coast safe as to navigation.

Before I take leave of the coast of Peru I will make a few general observations on it. The coast is generally very barren land, affording verdure only in patches, and fresh water is difficult to be obtained in most parts of it. It is very thinly inhabited in most places, and wood is likewise extremely scarce. There is enough salt to be found here to load all the ships in the world, which is found in mines to the northward of Lima. It is very convenient loading with it there, as a vessel can go in and get it on board without much labour. They cleave of large pieces from the side of the mine, which weigh many tons each; and it is commonly broken or hewed into square pieces, three feet long and one foot square, for convenience in handling, and to load on the backs of mules. It is sent several hundred miles into the country of Chili. I have seen them discharge many ships loads of it; and I never saw so handsome looking salt at any place that I have ever been. This is good

ground for whaling, as it is always pleasant weather, and on almost all parts of the coast whales are very plenty.

Before leaving the west coast of America, I will take the liberty here to remark, that having been in the port of Arica and other places on the north coast of Chili, the longitude of which is east of Boston; and by returning by the way of Canton and the Cape of Good Hope, the reader will readily perceive that we circumnavigated the globe twice during the performance of this voyage, which, together with my preceding voyage round Cape Horn, from thence to Canton, and home by the Cape of Good Hope, makes three times that I have been round the world.

On the 21st of June, 1806, we left the coast, taking our departure from cape or point St. Helena, and steered towards the Gallipagos Islands, where we arrived on the 27th. A particular description of these islands having been before given, as well as of the Sandwich Islands, I shall omit making any further remarks on either of them at this time, but merely mention them to show the course of our passage from the coast of Peru to Canton,

We sailed from the Gallipagos Islands on the 27th of July, after having fitted and provisioned the Pilgrim, with orders to remain another season, for the purpose of procuring a cargo of skins. She was left under the command of my brother Samuel, and with hira my brother William as first officer, and twelve men. She remained on the coast until the 4th of September, 1807, during which time they experienced many hardships and privations; but they procured between twelve and thirteen thousand skins, with which they arrived safe at Canton, though some of the skins were damaged by being wet, in consequence of the schooner being upset while entering the China seas. After discharging the skins at Canton she was sold, and my brothers safely returned to Boston, after an absence of five years, during which long and tedious voyage they encountered many dangers and vicissitudes of fortune, and William was again upset on his return to America in the brig Peacock, off the Straits of Sunda.

The Pereseverance proceeded on her voyage towards Canton, and arrived at the Sandwich Islands on the 8th of September, where we took in fresh provisions and water, and sailed again on the 30th. There are several islets and rock, which lie directly in the track

of vessels bound from the Sandwich Islands to Canton, that are very dangerous if fallen in with in the night; two of which were discovered by captain Wake, and are called Wake's Island and Rocks. I did not fall in with them, but having received their latitude and longitude from a friend, I will here insert it for the in formation of those who may be bound on this voyage, although I do not hold myself accountable for its being correct. The latitude of Wake's Island is 15° 00′ north, and the longitude 193° 12′ wests Wake's Rocks are in latitude 17° 43′ north, and in longitude 186 12′ west. I would caution every one making this passage, to pay due attention when coming near the latitudes and longitudes above mentioned, as there can be no doubt of these dangers lying some where near the place that they are described to be.

We arrived at Macao on the 10th of November, took a Chinese pilot and passport, and proceeded up to Canton. On going up we passed the English frigate Phaton, commanded by commodore Wood, with several other men of war under his command, moored below the Boge-a-tigris; we were boarded from the squadron, and treated politely; they offering us any assistance that we might be in want of. Shortly after my arrival at Canton, some misunder standing took place between commodore Wood and the Americans at that place, which was in consequence of an American vessel passing the squadron with English deserters on board, and deceiv ing the commodore, (as he said) with false reports concerning them. This transaction caused much difficulty between the English commander and the Americans then at Canton, and several aggravating letters passed between commodore Wood and the American consul. The conduct of the Americans, in my opinion, was not very wise or judicious, as it is always a maxim with me not to engage in a quarrel without possessing some means whereby I could be able to redress myself when I had received an injury ; but in this case there was no possible ground on which the Americans could maintain the position they had taken, as the English possessed the power if they had not the right on their side.

The Chinese empire is said by some to be the largest in the world, this however cannot be very well ascertained; but there is no doubt but that it contains the greatest number of inhabitants of any. When the Europeans first visited the

« ForrigeFortsæt »