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1801.]

The latitudes and longitudes of some of the principal places at the Sandwich Islands, we found as follows. The anchoring place at Towhyhee bay, latitude 20° 6' north longitude 155° 50' west. Karakakooa bay, latitude 19° 28′ north; longitude 155° 58′ west.South point of Mowee Island, latitude 20° 34' north; longitude 158° 00′ west. West point of Morotoi, latitude 21° 10′ north; longitude 157° 14' west. Atooi anchoring place, at its south west end, latitude 21° 57' north; longitude 159° 47' west.

CHAPTER XXH.

Passage to Canton-Directions for Sailing through between the Ladrone Islands Entering he Straits of Formosa-Arrival at Canton- Some Description of Japan-Passage through the Chinese Sea-Remarks upon the Keeling or Coco Islands, and Return to America.

AFTER having taken in a supply of fresh provisions and water,

we took our departure from the Sandwich Islands on the 20th of December, 1801, and steered a course for Canton; and on the 21st of January following, we fell in with and passed through between the Ladrone Islands.

In our passage through the Ladrone Islands there appeared to be no kind of danger whatever, neither rock nor shoal in the Way. We made the land in about 18° 20′ north latitude, and I think that to be a good latitude to run down in. There is an island on the southerly side of the passage, eighteen or twenty leagues distant, appearing in shape much like a high round loaf of bread. As we raised it, we made more high land to the southward, which we found to be connected with the former On drawing up with it, we made an island to the northward of the passage, which appeared high and round like the one described, only larger on the water, and found the first to be a volcano. We then saw another island to the south of the first we discovered, at the distance of fifteen leagues. When on with the east end of the first island, its bearing was south 10° east. There lay two remarkable rocks, or islets off the south east side of the first island, which appear, when bearing south west, or south west by west, like two ships at a distance; but the westerly one is much the largest, and when coming nearer to them, there will be observed a very large hole through the easternmost one.

We did not see When we passed

The center

We passed at about four miles distance from the first discovered island, and when the volcano bore south 15° east, the island to the northward bore north 15° west; the estimated distance was 10 leagues, and all the passage between them appeared to be clear. The nearest island that we passed was green and very fertile round the volcano; but the other parts of it appeared to be very barren indeed, and nothing but high craggy sharp rocks. any signs of inhabitants on either of them. nearest to the first, we were in latitude 18° 12′ north. of the island lies in latitude 18° 2′ north, or there abouts, and in longitude 214° 14' west. As we had a very good set of sights on each side of the moon the night before we passed them, and they agreed so very well together, I think the longitude must be right. The first island is about twelve miles long and perhaps half that distance in breadth, and lies the largest way north east and south west. As these islands are laid down very erroneously in the best charts that we have, and not having any voyages on board which gave an account of them, I am at a loss what their names are, and shall give them none, as I do not consider myself authorized. I have, on a succeeding voyage, satisfied myself, that the island that had the volcano on it, is called in the charts Guguan, and the other bearing north-north-west from it, is called Mamaguan. The passages between the islands both to the north and south, for two degrees either side of where we passed, are good, and if any vessel should be very much distressed on account of scorbutic complaints, it may haul to the southward to latitude 12° north, and run down for the island of Guam, where it may get suitable refreshments without much difficulty, as the island affords fruit, vegetables, and water, which can be procured very conveniently.

A ship, sailing through the straits of Formosa, will find it most easy and plain navigation to make Formosa, in which case she should be kept in latitude 22° 00′ north in the day time; but in the night, it is not very safe to run if the longitude is not knon, unless it is a clear night, which is not common in the north east monsoon. In runing down in the above latitude, an island will be made to the eastward of Formosa, called in most charts Bottle Tobago, in latitude 22° 2′ north, and longitude 121° 55′ east, according to our observation. It is high land, and can be seen fourteen

or fifteen leagues in clear weather. It appeared to be four or five miles long, and half that distance in breadth. The longest way not far from north and south. There is an islet to the south east of it, appearing to be two or three miles distant, which can not be seen at much distance, especially in the night. We saw no other danger as we passed within six or seven leagues off it; but I cannot say that others may not exist beyond that distance. After passing this island it is requisite to make a west course till you see Formo. sa; and then leaving the south point on the starboard hand between one and four leagues distant. To keep nearer the shore is not safe, and over that distance,will be near the Vela-rete rocks.

I here insert the bearings and distances we had, when we passed the Straits of Formosa, together with the latitude and longitude of them, and Formosa south point; viz. At half past three P. M. saw the Vela-rete rocks bearing west by north four miles distant, at the same time the south point of Formosa north west half north, six leagues distant.-At four P. M. the Vela-rete rocks on with the south and westerly extreme of Formosa in sight north 30° west, at the same time, the easterly extreme of Formosa in sight north 12° east.-Distance of the Vela-rete, one mile and a half.— Estimated distance off the south and westerly extreme of Formosa, five leagues.—At a few minutes afterwards a remarkable peak on Formosa, on with the Vela-rete rocks, north 7° west. The south point of Formosa latitude 21° 54′ north, and longitude 120° 55' east. Vela-rete rocks latitude 21° 40′ north, and longitude 120° 59' east.

On a succeeding voyage, we made the north east Barshe Island to lay nearest in latitude 21 26' north, and in longitude 122° 00′ east, or there abouts. We saw dangerous breakers in latitude 21° 48′ north, bearing about north west by north, from the above named island, and south by west, or south-south-west of Bottle Tobago. As I did not see or know of the shoal, or breakers previously alluded to, when I gave directions for making Formosa, I here recommend it as highly requisite to bear it in mind on making this passage through the Straits. It is necessary to caution the navigator against runing too near their entrance in stormy weather, as I have known a gale of wind to continue with a thick heavy atmosphere, for many days together, when I was about to enter the

China sea, by this passage, and always a strong current setting to leeward, which, considering all circumstances, would render it very dangerous to fall in with,till there was clear weather enough to obtain observations sufficient to ascertain the latitude and longitude. As this passage is made only in the north east monsoon it is always to be calculated on having excessively bad weather, and a very rough sea, for many degrees to the eastward of Formosa, till entering the bay of Canton.

After passing the south point of Formosa, you should not come to the northward of that latitude, till you have made one hundred miles westing, on account of a rock that lies about eighty miles west of it, and about fifteen or twenty miles to the northward of its latitude. Then, if bound to Macao or Canton, you should haul west-north-west until you get soundings in forty fathoms water, then keep to the westward, or keep in such a latitude as to have about thirty fathoms, making near a west course, and when drawing nearly up with the grand Lama Island, (which is the ruling mark to enter the bay by,) the water will shoal to twenty-five fa thoms, or perhaps less, by which you may know (if in the night) that you are near up with the easterly passage inside the islands. It is not safe to come under twenty fathoms, when up with the grand Lama, which lies in latitude 22° 5′ north, and longitude 114 32′ east, on account of being too near the land; but if you have been runing down in a higher latitude, and of course are to the. northward of the ruling mark, you will have shoaler water and be equally safe, excepting only on account of Pedro-branco, and that in the day time is not dangerous. A ship in the north east monsoon, when coming from the eastward, should enter between the Grand Lama island and the small islands to the northward of it, for the benefit of a more easy wind down to Macao, and at the same time will be found in a plainer passage than any other for a stranger. The ruling mark is easily known, when it is made in coming from sea. It is the most eastern island of all the group in Canton bay of any magnitude, and the eastern head is quite bluff, and lies out far to the southward of the main coast, so that it cannot be passed without being observed in the day time. After entering this passage, an island seen to the westward, that seems to lie in the middle of this island, must be passed to the northward, and in

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