ble to fall into. If this accident was to happen to an adventurer, if he was not killed by the fall, it would be very difficult for him to get out again, as the rocks are so much burned that they have but little strength in them. When we walked over this clinker the tread of our feet would cause a remarkable sound, as if walking on bell metal. Albermarle Island is similar to the others in the production of terrapins, and sea turtles, seals, and all the other animals common to them.

Were it not for the advantages which these islands afford to the American and English whaling ships, in getting a supply of fresh provisions when in these seas, I know not what they would do, especially in time of war, as they then could not possibly obtain any from the Spanish settlements. The advantages which ships derive from these islands are very important, in consequence of their lying so much in the way of those employed in the whaling business, who can always get a supply of fresh provision here, and not be put much out of their course; without which they would not be able to keep to sea but a few months, before their people would die with the scurvy. There is a great number of islands lying between Albermarle on the west, James's on the north, Chatham on the east, and Hood's and Charles's Islands on the south. I presume I saw more than twenty within the above space besides two to the northward, and in sight of Albermarle, and James's Island. The distance from Albermarle to the nearest port of James's is about nine or ten miles. It is good navigation between them, although I never have known of any one who had been through previous to ourselves.

The most extraordinary phenomenon, happened while we were riding in James's bay, in the year 1800, that I ever witnessed in my life; and as I do not remember to have ever heard or read of any thing like it either before or since, I will here insert an extract from the ship's Journal, describing it, as it was minuted down at the time it took place, by the officer who had the care of the log book. "As our boat was coming from the watering place on the evening of the 21st of August, between sunset and dark, with a load of water, we saw a large black cloud gathering over the highest mountain on Albermarle Island, which was the same place where one of the men on board our ship had asserted that he had seen a volcano burning in 1797; soon after the cloud gathered, it

formed a spire or piked end similar to that of a cloud when about to meet a water spout. It descended to the top of the mountain, with a body of fire following it, apparently of the size of the lar gest part of the steeple of a meeting house. Its illumination was so great, that it attracted the attention of all the people in the boat, although they were at the time rowing with their backs toward it. After the fire had descended to the top of the mountain it continued some seconds, when it broke like a water spout and left a streak where it had passed, which appeared as brilliant as a column of fire, and continued for near half an hour before it wholly disappeared."

The watering place on Albermarle Island is in a cove directly to the eastward of Narborough, and on the westerly side of the island. The passage between the two islands being not more than two miles across. In going into the cove it may be approached from the northward, or from the southward; but it is most common for ships to go in from the northward. A red head, or cliff on Albermarle will be seen before getting so far to the southward as where the cove makes in. The shore to the northward of the red head, for several miles, is all green mangroves, and to the southward it is all burnt, rocky, mountainous land, for about half a mile, after which the cove makes in; but it is so small, and the land so very high round it, that it will not be seen until very near.

To enter the cove when coming from the southward, it must be found in the best manner that circumstances make practicable. The best guide that I can recommend is, to keep Albermarle shore on board as near as possible and be safe; when in passing by the cove it cannot help being seen, as it makes in a north east direction. The winds are generally very light and variable in the passage between Albermarle and Narborough, which will make it necessary to always have the boats in readiness for the purpose of towing, either to keep the ship off shore, or get her into the cove, as circumstances may require. When a ship gets in, she can anchor in from nine to twenty-five fathoms water, in good muddy bottom; but there will be no soundings soon after passing without the last mentioned depth. The watering places are to be found on the south east side of the cove, and are eight or ten in number. They are formed by holes which are cut out of the rock just above the surf, and will contain about one barrel each. They are situated

directly underneath some little hillocks or knolls, which will be a good mark to find them by. There are likewise two or three little gullies near then, in which water sometimes runs. A ship may fill at this place from fifty to one hundred and fifty barrels in twenty-four hours, by attending night and day as has been recommended at James's Island. Plenty of wood can be procured to the northward of the red head, from the green mangroves before mentioned, or from Narborough Island. This little cove is as snug a place as any I know amongst the islands for a ship to lie in and overhaul her rigging, or make any repairs that may be found necessary, and likewise to fill up with water; but any communication with the shore, excepting for water, is not so convenient as at several of the other islands. There are many advantages which unite about this place, and are seldom to be found any where else. The plentiful supply of the best of fresh meat; together with the fresh fish, which are as plenty as in any place I ever was at; and good wood for fuel which is easily obtained; and all to be procured without any expense, and with very little trouble. It is considered to be as good whaling ground about these islands as any in these seas.

The greatest number of the Gallipagos Islands received their names from captain Colnett, who visited them about the year 1792 and 1793, in the ship Rattler from London. The constant south east trade winds prevail as near the equator as Hood's and Charles's Islands; and they blow for the most part of the time from that quarter, till after passing to the northward of the whole group. There are at some periods spells of variable winds and calms near and immediately to the northward of the equator. It is necessary here to remark, that to get to windward when amongst these. islands, or to get round the weather head of Albermarle, will be found to be almost impossible. After passing the latitude of one or two degrees north, a ship will be always subject to have variable and light winds and calins, with squalls and rain, till aftet getting as far as ten, and sometimes fifteen degrees north latitude. We found the currents among these islands most generally setting to the north west, and commonly at the rate of one or two miles an hour; but at some seasons they take a different course and set to the south east, for several days together. They commonly set very strongly to the northward and westward off the north point of Albermarle, for several degrees to the north of it; and if a ship

should get to leeward of the islands and be becalmed, it is difficult to say how far she might be carried before she would get clear of the current. In case such an event should happen, I would recommend to stand to the eastward, if the intention is to regain the islands; for by standing to the westward, it would be impossible for me to say how far a ship would be obliged to run in that direction, before she would obtain a wind, that would enable her to recover her station at the islands.

I found the variation of the compass here to be nearest 9° easterly.

I should recommend to those bound to the southward, if they are to the eastward of the south head of Albermarle, when amongst these islands, to bear away and go round its north point, where there is a good opportunity to send a boat on shore and procure sea turtles, and cray-fish; and to shoot teals, flamingoes, and perhaps some other kinds of birds. Then steer off close hauled upon a wind to the southward, in the same manner as if to the westward of Albermarle, keeping the wind, till far enough to the southward to be out of the trade winds.

When bound to the northward, or to the westward for China, as I have been at two different times when I left these islands, I have steered nearest a north west course, till in the latitude of 10° north, then more to the westward, so as to bring me, when I was in the latitude of 15° north, to be in 115° west longitude; from which I sailed nearly on a north west course till I was in latitude 20° north, and longitude 120° west. I would here remark, that during the whole run of my last course described, I saw boobies, man-of-war hawks, egg birds, and some other kind of birds, that indicated land in this vicinity; and I have no doubt of its existence, or of my having been able to have found it, if time would have permitted me to look for it.

CHAPTER XXI.

Passage to the Sandwich Islands, with a description of them.

WE sailed from the Gallipagos Islands for Canton on the 9th

day of November, 1801, and directed our course towards the Sandwich Islands, where we arrived on the 10th of December following. Nothing worthy of being mentioned happened during the passage.

In running down for Owhyhee, the eastermost of the Sandwich Islands, it is best to keep in about 20° north latitude. By keeping this course the land on the north east side of the island will be first made, which is entirely free from danger until getting to the breakers on the shore. The land trends about north west far to the eastward on this side the island; but in sailing to the westward the land turns to the west-north-west, and runs quite to the west end of the island, in that direction.

The north west point of Owhyhee lies in latitude 20° 12′ north, or thereabouts, and in longitude 156° 4′ west; but as we had no observation while off the point, it may be subject to some error in both latitude and longitude. The land all the way down the north east side is high, and may be run for by night or day without danger, if it can be seen three or four miles distant. The highest land of Owhyhee is three large mountains, which are some of the highest land in the world. They can be seen forty or fifty leagues at sea in clear weather. They lie in the centre of the island. One of them is a volcano, which sometimes burns with incredible fury. The place which we anchored in is not called the best sheltered bay, or the best place to procure provisions and water The bay further to the southward, which is called Karakakooa Bay, has the preference with them who are acquainted with both. The king generally makes it his home there, and where he resides a ship is not so much troubled with the natives, and is in no danger of being attacked by them.