DEPARTURE FROM PARIS.

121

is particularly great near the avenues), there are more quiet and lovely walks, where one never meets a throng. Gardens and lofty trees, and open squares, with a rich greensward— elegant houses and arbors 'mid the clustering vines, "invite a long delay." The delicious fountains of the "Rond Pont" were throwing up their sparkling waters as we passed into the "Place de la Concorde." I never crossed it, and looked upon its splendor, that the thought of Marie Antoinette did not come between me and its brightness, and Charlotte Corday too, that brave enthusiast, was often in my mind.

Now, we have passed through the gardens of the Tuileries, and are once more in our own parlor, not to rest, but to prepare for a "pleasure trip" through Belgium, and up the Rhine. We have been near two weeks in Paris. As those persons to whom we brought letters were absent from the city, at their chateaux, or at the watering places, we determined to devote our time to seeing all the monuments of Paris to visiting the galleries, gardens, and theatres. Incessantly have we been occupied-delightfully so, however. At dawn we shall away to other scenes of interest, and as the numerous clocks (every room has one) have long ago chimed out the midnight, I must throw aside my pen, and seek a short repose.

VOL. I.-6

CHAPTER XVI.

BRUSSELS, August 1st.

AT six we left Paris. The morning was serenely bright, and the country through which we passed, fertile and flourishing. We soon came to Pontoise, where Blanche, of Castile, was buried in 1252; then to Ile Adam, famed as the dwelling place of the Fleur de Marie of the." Mysteries of Paris." After entering the valley of the Oise, we saw the long village of Champagne, a name so well known to the entire world from its wine. The vines are suffered to climb up the trees; thence they wave in great festoons. They are not clipt as in all the other vineyards of the valley. Next we saw Creil, which once contained the prison of Charles VI., and Clermont, with its church, built in the tenth century; then Amiens, with its grand old cathedral, and its memories of the "Peace of Amiens;" and successively Arras, the birth-place of Robespierre; Douai, with its immense church and lofty tower; Valenciennes, celebrated for its exquisite lace; Lille, renowned for its Palace of Richebourg, built in 1430; and Tournay, for its ancient cathedral. There we crossed the Scheldt, and by five o'clock were at Brussels, in most delightful apartments in the "Belle Vue."

As soon as we dined we walked out to see the city, which is really worthy of being called "a second Paris"-a minia

THE FIELD OF WATERLOO.

123

ture resemblance of the enchanting original. The houses are built in the same style. The elegant shops are furnished alike, and the French language spoken every where, although Flemish is the native tongue.

The Park is a lovely spot, shaded by immense trees, said to be a portion of the virgin forest. There are avenues and green banks of turf-sheltered walks and fountains. A band of music was playing in a pavilion, and throngs of gayly drest women and robust-looking men were sauntering beneath the "leafy shades."

The "Hotel de Ville" is a fine specimen of the Gothic architecture. The statue of the bold crusader, Godfrey de Bouillon, ornaments the "Place Royale." The “Hall of Deputies" has a great staircase of Belgian marble, and a handsome saloon for the meetings of the Representatives. The "King's Palace" is a spacious building, superbly furnished. We found our promenade so agreeable, that dark night was around us, ere we returned to our hotel.

At the Inn, on the Field of Waterloo, August 2d.In the early morning light we left Brussels, and drove rapidly in a stage-coach along the highway made by Napoléon. We passed the forest of Soignés, and were soon accompanied by an escort of beggars, who, to attract our special attention, made wheels of their hands and feet, and rolled around like a velocipede. We were thus followed when in motion, but at the stopping places a circle of frightful objects, "lame, maimed, and blind," beset us with their pitiable entreaties for charity.

Once upon the "Field of Waterloo," we could not escape a horde of guides, English and French. The former insisted they alone could give a true history of the battle, while the latter protested the English were too boastful to do justice to the great Emperor. They almost came to blows who

should possess our important patronage. We were absolutely compelled to compromise the matter by taking two, thus hearing the version of each side.

The plain is very level, and is covered with rich, waving fields of grain. The growth of wheat, the guide told me, was particularly luxuriant over the places where the bodies of the soldiers were buried. The "Chateau of Hougoumont still remains in a shattered condition, and the farm of "La Haye Sainte." Several other houses, bearing the impress of the bullets, are yet preserved. The mound of the "Belgic Lion is a pyramid of earth raised over the remains of friends and foes.. It is about two hundred feet high, and has a flight of steps leading to the summit, upon which is placed an enormous lion.

After walking for several miles over the fields, and listening to the description of the battle from both guides, of which we must confess we understood but little, not being especially versed in military tactics, we sought the shelter of a small dwelling, wherein the owner had gathered many relics of the fight. In the quiet little porch, shaded by rose-vines and fragrant honeysuckles, I am now writing, while the rest of the party are examining rusty swords and death-dealing bullets. It was a balmy, delicious day, and the wind came over the fields of grain, giving them the undulating wave of the great ocean. A deep calmness and silence prevailed.

"Gentle nature still pursued

Her quiet course, as if she took no care

For what her noblest work had suffered there."

As soon as the carriage came, and our purchases of eagles, buttons, and other relics from the venders, who clustered around us like bees, were completed, we left the battle-field, attended by the same human whirligigs, and entreated,

MANUFACTORY OF LACE.

125

wherever we changed horses, by the same plaintive voices, "For the love of the blessed Virgin, charity." Returning to Brussels, we dined at a most sumptuous table d'hôte at the Belle Vue, and then proceeded to the church of Saint Gudule, built in 1435. The painted glass of the windows is very beautiful. Several are by Weyde, done in the sixteenth century. There are monuments, paintings on canvas, and tapestry, woven most exquisitely. The pulpit is a great curiosity. It is entirely of oak, carved in an elaborate manner. It is sustained by the figures of Adam and Eve, and the angel with the flaming sword. The serpent supports the canopy, while above its head is the Virgin Mary, holding the infant Christ, and bruising the serpent's head with the cross.

We visited several galleries of pictures, where we saw many fine paintings by Rubens, Rembrandt, and Jan Steen. In a private palace belonging to one of the descendants of the Spanish Princes, we were delighted with a Murillo, rich, and glowing with the peculiar light he ever throws around his pictures. Then there was an admirable Velasquez. The walls of some of the rooms were covered with Spanish leather, gorgeously gilt. Nearly all the windows upon the streets have small mirrors hanging out. They are so arranged that those within can see reflected all passing without, while they are perfectly invisible. The library founded by the Duke of Burgundy contains manuscripts of great value.

In the Palace of Justice we saw the room where Charles the Fifth abdicated in favor of Philip the Second; and, crossing the square, we looked upon the spot where Horn and Egmont were beheaded by the cruel Duke of Alba.

We next visited the manufactory of lace, for which Brussels is so remarkable. It is made in large rooms by the hands of women, who form each sprig, tendril, bud, and leaf separately, and then they are sewed on to the plain net.