SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL.

CHAPTER I.

It was just twelve o'clock, June 11th, 1853, when the great gun of the Atlantic sounded forth its farewell to America. The wharves and shipping around were thronged with a dense mass of human beings, whose loud cheers answered the cannon's roar. Many were the kind faces beaming with friendship upon us as the noble ship gracefully passed from her moorings. There was no sadness in their glances, and my own heart bounded with joy, as the shores of the beautiful bay melted into distance.

The dream of my life had been to visit Europe, and now the great white wings of the Atlantic, aided by the Magician of the Nineteenth Century, mighty steam, was about to realize my brightest hopes. My emotions were full of radiant delight, as bright and sparkling as the myriad diamond drops. which fell in showers from the swift-moving wheels of the glorious steamer.

There were more than two hundred passengers, and never was assembled a more merry, genial, agreeable set of persons. VOL. I.-1

All portions of the world seemed represented, (save China.) There were Frenchmen, Germans, Englishmen, Spaniards, and Norwegians-Chilians from the silver mines-Peruvians from near the equator-Cubans from the "Gem of the Antilles"-Californians, hastening to the Old World, to purchase with their gold recompense for many a privation; also an Australian, who had been among the first to dig the precious metal in that far-away land. There were blooming English and lovely American women; statesmen, judges, generals, and orators, poets, artists, and musicians. A spirit of kindness and cordiality encircled us, and each one appeared earnest for the other's happiness.

For two days, life was an enchantment; but upon the third day I was seized by that demon of the ocean, (in common parlance, sea-sickness,) and so tightly did he grasp me, that for several days I lay still and death-like. However, the "indomitable will" of my nature would be no longer controlled, and then came on a fierce struggle between us. I would not yield, though my anguish was inexpressible. Each day I ascended the deck, in spite of the icy coldness of the wind, which betokened our near approach to the icebergs.

My good friends, after bringing me on deck, would wrap me up, like an Egyptian mummy, in buffalo robes, California blankets, and Mexican ponchos. In truth, none of the mummies of old had more valuable enwrapments. Sometimes we enjoyed the luxury of a great buffalo robe, brought from Chicago by a gentleman en route for England, and intended as a present to Queen Victoria. Very gallantly he permitted the "sovereign" of his own country to make it a restingplace. To cheer the long hours, I often told them Indian legends, and one of the "Alabama" (signifying "here we rest") pleased the group so much, that whenever I came on deck they would seize the magnificent robe, and casting it

down would cry out, "Come, dear madam, here is your Alabama." Sweet are the memories of those pleasant days, when kindness and gentle words even cheated sea-sickness of half its horrors. The captain, with his broad, stalwart form, and benevolent smile, was often near to cheer us with the hope of a speedy arrival. The weather, although cold was delightful; the winds fair as the first dream of love. But about mid-ocean we encountered a terrific swell from the north. There had doubtless been a great storm in the icy regions, and the stubborn heart of the mighty deep was still agitated. Would to heaven it had sung to quietude ere we came along, for it rendered me intolerably ill, and the demon and I battled again for many a day.

Braham, the excellent English singer, and Dodworth, the admirable cornet à piston player, gave us a concert one night for the benefit of the Sailors' Home on Staten Island. After some delightful music, the Star Spangled Banner was sung, in which all the audience joined, making a most charming finale to the entertainment.

On the ninth day, as I lay, miserably ill, on the deck, the officer cried out, "Land! land!" Oh, joyful sound! giving life and hope. None of Sontag's sweetest tones could equal the exquisite thrill that one word produced upon me. The mountains of Ireland were soon visible, and the "Fastness Rock" in the ocean. This contains a light-house, which It is three miles from the main.

is tenanted by one man. land, and is a lonely spot.

The next day we were in sight of Wales, and soon of Holyhead-a high, bold, desolate-looking rock, with a white. light-house upon it. The shore was barren and cheerless, without a single tree, until we entered the Mersey; then the shores were green and lovely, and I felt we were indeed in "merrie England."

As we approached Liverpool, a thick mist gathered around us, veiling the landscape. Within the steamer all was confusion and preparation for landing. On all sides were the inquiries-" Can I take my baggage?" "Are the officers very strict in their search?"

It was quite dark when we descended the ladder of the Atlantic, and entered the little steam-tug-a frightful, black, gopher-looking vessel. There we stood, until 215 passengers came down the narrow way. We scarcely had standing room, and even I confessed it was amazingly unpleasant. But I had resolved not to permit any of the small ills of life to annoy me; hence I only laughed at them, and sprang merrily ashore.

At last I was in England! Even the most unenthusiastic must feel a wild bounding of the heart when they first touch the shores of Mother-Land. As for me, joy, radiant joy, filled my soul, and I could have thrown myself on my knees and kissed the earth-the home of my ancestors-the glorious land which holds forth its hands in love and sympathy to its children, far over the vast Atlantic.

The illuminated clock of one of the churches marked the hour of eleven, as we drove to the Adelphi, first stopping at the Custom-House, where the trunks were opened and closed, (at least ours were.) A southern planter was not so lucky. He had "seven beautiful plugs" of tobacco taken from him, as he refused to pay seven dollars duty upon them.

At the hotel the waiter called out, "Fine rooms! excellent rooms!" When I entered them I thought—“ I will take mine ease at mine inn;" but alas for this hope of comfort! Never did we see more miserable, dingy, dark rooms. "English comfort "the boast of the Anglo-Saxons over the whole world-seemed to me but a fiction, if this were an

DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY.

5

earnest of it. Visions of the palace-like St. Nicholas came to us, as we looked upon the quaint, old, queer furniturethe narrow beds and time-worn carpets. However, we were very weary, and soon sought forgetfulness in sleep; and in the "dream-land" I was soon with those dear ones in my home by the Mexican Gulf.

Liverpool, June 22d.-"I am at last in England!" was my first exclamation, as I sprang from my narrow bed, and drew aside the curtain. It was a bright morning, and already the street was thronged with people. I hurriedly dressed, that I might go out and breathe freely the English air, though somewhat tainted by coal-smoke. But the enthusiasm of the last night was yet with me, and delightful memories filled my mind, of this land so famed in "song and story."

Liverpool is a bustling, busy city, of near 400,000 inhabitants. It covers a large space of ground, and its streets are as wandering and winding as those of Boston.

During our drive, we visited many of the public buildings, which are really splendid. The St. George's Hall is a magnificent edifice; likewise the Exchange, Custom-House, and Sailors' Home. We saw the statue of Lord Nelson, and that of Huskisson. But the miracles of Liverpool are the docks. These are of wondrous extent at least five or six miles along the shores of the Mersey. The tide rises from twelve to thirty feet; hence ships are compelled to be placed in the docks, or else to lie far out in the "offing." There appeared to be vessels from all the nations of the earth, indicated by their flags, and destined to all ports, from the sailing-boards hung out upon them.

The hum of commerce, and the eager rushing to and fro of hundreds of laborers, gave token that Liverpool is indeed the great emporium of the English world.