cafe. He then applied to a famous Scheich, who was a better aftrologer than I. The Scheich gathered all his fervants, ranged them in a line, and after a long prayer, made each of them take into his mouth a bit of folded paper, telling them, that they who were innocent might fwallow it with fafety, but that the guilty perfon would be choked by it. They all fwallowed the paper, fave one, who, being thus furprised, and embarraffed, confeffed the theft, and made reftitution.

He is faid to have been Sultan El Guri, fovereign of Egypt, who in the year 1514, furrounded Jidda with walls, to protect it from the Portuguese, then beginning to become formidable on the Red Sea. Thofe walls are ftill ftanding, but are now fo ruinous, that a perfon may, in many places, enter over them on horfeback. The bridge is in an equally defencelefs ftate; a ruinous battery, with one dismounted cannon, is all that remains to fhelter it. Some cannons before the palace of the Pacha, are good for nothing but to return the falute of fhips which enter the harbour. This palace is but an indifferent building, like the houses of the other Pachas through the Ottoman empire. In the city, however, are feveral fine buildings of coral ftone. But the other houfes are flight wooden fabrics, like the ordinary dwellings of the Arabs through the country.

The city is entirely deftitute of water. The inhabitants have none to drink, but what is collected by the Arabs, in refervoirs among the hills, and brought by them from thence upon camels.

People of diftinction in this place drefs nearly as the Turks in Cairo. But the poorer fort wear only a fhirt without breeches. The Bedouins in the neighbourhood wear only the Ihhram upon their loins. The drefs of the women among the lower ranks is the fame which is worn by the Arabian females in general; large drawers, a flowing shirt, and a veil. Many of the poorer people are employed in fishing, by which they seem to earn but a fcanty living.

The country lying immediately around this city is fandy and barren. If we may believe tradition, these regions have undergone no change fince the creation; for the tomb of Eve is still fhewn in a spot at no great distance from the fea. But I have remarked some sure indications of the fea having receded from the furface of the land here as well as in other places. At a certain distance from the fhore, are hills entirely composed of coral-rock, and having a perfect resemblance to the banks of coral lying along the coaft.

As I was walking by the harbour, I had an opportunity of observing a fingular practice, which the Arabs ufe for taking up wild ducks. The perfon who is in fearch of the game, ftrips, puts fea weeds upon his head, and approaches the bird. The duck, not being alarmed at the fight of the fea weeds, ftirs not till the Arab feizes it it by the feet.

Pococke, and fome other travellers, were not credited, when they spoke of this mode of taking wild fowls as practifed in China. But no fact can be more certain.

CHAP. XIV. -The Government and Trade of Jidda.

JIDDA has been always a part of the dominions of the Sherriffe of Mecca. The Turkish Sultan fends, indeed, a Pacha to this city; but he is not abfolute fovereign of it. The fupreme authority is fhared between the Sherriffe and the Turkish governor. The latter is changed every year; and accordingly refufes fometimes to obey the Pacha; as did the prefent Kiaja, in one inftance, during our stay at Jidda.

The

The Sherriffe keeps an officer, who is called his Vifier, to reprefent him in this city; and on this Vifier, folely, do all fuch of the inhabitants of Jidda, as are the Sherriffe's fubjects, depend. This officer is always chofen out of the family of the Sherriffe, from among thofe who afpire to the fovereign power. A defcendant of a noble Arab family would not deign to compear before a judge of a meaner birth.

The revenue arifing from the customs is fhared between the Sultan and the Sherriffe ; upon which account the Kiaja and the Vifier always attend together, when goods are examined. The dues of cuftom are fixed at 10 per cent. upon the value of the goods, eftimated arbitrarily by the customhoufe officers; fo that they may be confidered as equal, in reality, to 12 or 15 per cent. The English, however, are particularly favoured, even more than the fubjects of the Sultan: They pay only 8 per cent. and are fuffered to discharge this in goods; whereas all others must produce money.

Although the trade of Jidda is fo confiderable, yet this city is no more than a mart between Egypt and India. The fhips from Suez feldom proceed farther than this port; and thofe from India are not fuffered to advance to Suez. The mafter of a veffel from Surat being driven one year too far north to enter the harbour of Jidda, proceeded to Suez, and there difcharged his cargo. But he was put in prifon next year at Jidda, and obliged to pay the whole dues that would have been charged at Jidda, upon the goods which he had difpofed of at Suez.

Were it not for this advantage, the trade of Suez would be very trifling. The circumjacent country affords nothing but Taif almonds for an object of traffic; of thefe, indeed, the English carry five hundred thousand weight a-year to India. Balm of Mecca is alfo brought hither from the neighbourhood of Medina, as an article for exportation.

The imports are greater, because both Mecca and Medina are to be fupplied from this market. Large quantities of corn, rice, lentiles, fugar, oil, &c. are imported from Egypt, without which this part of Arabia could not poffibly be inhabited. All goods from Europe come alfo by the way of Egypt; and, on the other hand, those which are brought hither from India pafs generally into Egypt.

Maillet, who refided long in Cairo, imagined that it might be of advantage to the nations of Europe, to conduct their trade to India by the way of the Red Sea. But it is doubtful whether fhips would be allowed to pafs the harbour of Jidda. They would undoubtedly meet with much fraud and chicanery at Suez; for the proprietors of the veffels which trade at prefent between the two harbours, are the most respectable merchants in Cairo. Befides, the exorbitant duties which would be exacted, would greatly curtail their profits. But European merchants would hardly be hindered to settle at Jidda: One Englishman has lived several years here.

A circumftance which muft always have an unfavourable influence upon the state of this trade, is the low ftate of the finances of the Government which prefides here. Continually in want of money, they often require the merchants to advance fome part of the duties for the next year, and promise to discount what is thus advanced, when it falls due. But thefe advances, when once obtained, are left to accumulate year after year, and will never be repaid. The English have not yet fubmitted to thefe impofitions: but their firm refufal continually embroils them with the officers of Government.

No money is coined in this province; the fpecie current here is all foreign, and the fame as at Conftantinople and Cairo. But the larger coins pafs at a higher rate here than in Cairo, because small money is more plentiful here than even where it is coined. Pilgrims bring this abundance of small money into the country, to defray their travelling

expences, and the alms which they are obliged to bestow on their journey, and in the Holy City. That small money is never carried out of the country, and the province is, by confequence, abfolutely overflowed with it.

I have had occafion to fpeak of the trading janiffaries. Thofe are properly merchants, who have enrolled themselves among the janiffaries, that they might be protected by the privileges of that body from the impofitions to which they would otherwife be exposed in conducting their traffic; but they perform no military duty, and receive no pay. Such a janiffary is independent of the civil magiftrate, and amenable to no judges but the officers of the military body to which he belongs. He enjoys alfo an exemption from the payment of cuftom-houfe dues, for a trunk and two baskets, which are allowed them for the conveyance of their baggage and provifions. But, inftead of baggage or provifions, the trading janiffaries take care to fill the trunk and baskets with their most precious goods. I have feen, likewife, fome fhip captains and pilots who had inrolled themselves among the janiffaries, folely to acquire importance, and to fecure the protection of this powerful body, who are always ready to fupport and defend a brother janiffary; for fuch janiffaries did not fhare the privileges of their Turkish

brethren.

While we were in Jidda, the janiffary traders, refenting the ftrictnefs with which their goods were inspected, threatened to defend themselves with the help of their fellows, from what they called injustice. The Kiaja and Vifier ordered strong detachments from the troops of the Pacha and the Sultan, to attend them to the custom-house; and the mutineers were thus repreffed. But after our departure, the janiffaries affembled in arms; upon which the Pacha directed fome cannons to be pointed against the house in which the ringleaders were affembled, and all became quiet.

CHAP. XV.-Voyage from Jidda to Loheia.

OUR orders were to proceed as directly as poffible to Yemen; and nothing detained us at Jidda but the prevalence of the north wind, which kept back the arrival of the fhips going thither for coffee; for there were none elfe with which we could continue our voyage to the fouth of the Arabic Gulph. At laft fome of thofe veffels arrived in the beginning of December; and we were advised to take our paffage in a fhip from Mafkate, bound to Hodeida, for a cargo of coffee.

We went in hafte to see this veffel, but were not a little furprised to find it more like a hogfhead than a fhip. It was only feven fathoms long, by three in breadth. It had no deck; its planks were extremely thin, and feemed to be only nailed together, but not pitched. The Captain wore nothing but a linen cloth upon his loins; and his failors, who were nine in number, and all black flaves from Africa or Malabar, had nothing to cover their nakednefs, but about an hand breadth of linen, bound upon their haunches with a cord. Our friends perfuaded us not to ftickle at appearances, as the Arabs of Mafkate are esteemed good failors, and manage their fails like European mariners; whereas the fubjects of the Imam are very unfkilful navigators, and ufe mats for fails, which it is very difficult to manage. We took their advice and agreed with the mafter for our paffage to Hodeida.

Our first intention had been to go ftraight by fea to Mokha, as we hoped that fome English veffel might be found there. But we were told, that this paffage would be extremely tedious, and that we might travel more agreeably by land, and could meet with no moleftation in the dominions of the Imam. However, the danger of living among Arabs, whom we reprefented to ourfelves fuch as thofe whom we had feen in the defart,

VOL. X.

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defart, ftill dwelt upon our imagination. But our friends again affured us, that our fears were groundless; and we accordingly determined to land at Loheia, or rather at Hodeida, as we should thus begin the fooner to traverfe Arabia the Happy. The Kiaja gave us letters to the Dolas, or governors of Loheia and Hodeida: and the merchants to whom we had been recommended, gave us others to fome of the principal merchants in those two cities. The Pacha gave orders that our baggage fhould pafs unexamined.

We had freighted the veffel for ourselves alone: but yet we found it laden with goods. The mafter excufed this, by telling us, that these were abfolutely neceffary for ballaft. A fmall space was however allotted to each of us, which we found fpread with a straw mat, intended equally for a feat and a bed, upon which we might fleep if we could. Bales of goods occupied every place elfe, except one fmall corner, which served as a kitchen. It was impoffible, therefore, to walk or take the leaft exercife. Mr. Cramer loft his watch the first night between the boards and a mat of branches of trees, which was spread all over the bottom of the veffel, to keep the goods dry. It was found undamaged, when we reached Loheia; a circumftance which proves that the timber of thofe veffels is more clofely joined than one would at first imagine.

We set out from Jidda on the 13th of December, and our Captain followed the practice of cafting anchor every night; although the banks of coral are lefs numerous in the fouthern than in the northern part of the Arabic Gulph. If we had seen few towns or villages between Suez and Jidda, we faw no more between Jidda and Loheia.

Our voyage was uniformly fafe and pleasant. We obferved fome flying fishes, which the Arabs call fea locufts. On the fixth day of our voyage, we overtook a veffel belonging to Hodeida, which had failed from Jidda three days before us. This was an inftance of the flow failing of the ships of Yemen, whofe mat fails receive fo little wind, that often the Arabs can scarce get out of the harbour. We faw also several small veffels, which proceeded in fuch a manner as to fhew themfelves to be managed by men of much more spirit than the Turkish failors.

After seven days failing we anchored near Ghunfude, a confiderable city, but confifting merely of huts. It belongs to the Sherriffe of Mecca, and is governed by one of his officers, who lives in a small isle, at some distance from the city. He is obliged to pass daily between the ifle and the town, in order to attend the receipt of the cuftoms. All the fhips which are employed in carrying coffee to Jidda, are obliged to anchor here, and pay a duty to the Sherriffe. They are under no neceffity of stopping on their return; if the crew, however, wifh to go on fhore, they may obtain a general permiffion for the payment of two crowns.

Next day after our departure from Ghunfude, where we ftaid only one day, we paffed within fight of Hali, where the Sherriffe of Mecca keeps a garrifon. This city is upon the confines of his dominions, and upon the border of the province of Hedjas. The neighbouring Arabs belong to Yemen.

As our captain needed provifions, we had an early opportunity of forming acquaintance with thofe independent Arabs who live between the dominions of the two Sherriffes of Mecca and Abu-Arifch. They are governed by Schiechs of their own, and profess a religion which feems to have been that of their ancestors before Mahomet arofe. We had heard it mentioned, that those people have a strong inclination to appropriate the clothes of travellers: in imitation of our fhip captain, therefore, we dreffed ourselves modeftly and fimply, in different fhirts, and in this guife went on fhore unarmed. Some men immediately advanced to meet us; instead of a turban

they

they wore only a string upon the head, to confine the hair; and a cloth upon the loins was all the reft of their drefs. Conceiving our behaviour to be expreffive of fufpicion and distrust, they threw down their lances, and told us that we had nothing to fear.

As we wished to purchase provisions, they led us to their tents. As we approached, two women came out to meet us, and refpectfully kiffed the arms of the Schiechs, who " kiffed their heads in return. They wore no veils upon their faces; their eyes were blackened with lead ore; and they had black fpots impreffed, as ornaments upon their brows, cheeks, and chin. Those beauties, whofe complexion was a yellowish brown, and who were almost naked, immediately afked us for Kochhel, to blacken their eyes, and for Elheune to dye their nails yellow. We were not a little mortified that we had forgotten to provide ourselves in these articles, by which we might have been enabled to gratify the eagerness of those fair ones for drefs, and to supply them. with powerful aids to their charms. They regaled us with milk and butter, which had been kept in goat skins, and gave us bad bread to eat with thefe dainties. They were not displeased at our paying them before hand. Although wanderers in the defart, they seemed to us more civilized than moft of the other Bedouin tribes.

Next day, after this interview, we halted near a mountain called Konembel, fituated in the middle of the fea, and said by the Arabs to have been originally a volcano. It may poffibly be the remains of that burning ifland which is placed by Arrian and Ptolemy in these latitudes. We faw, likewife, not far off, the city of Gefan, fituate upon a tongue of land, on the coaft; but we did not venture to approach it; for the Sherriffe to whom it belongs bears the character of being inhofpitable to strangers.

On the 29th of December, we arrived in the harbour of Loheia, and caft anchor within a league of the town.

BETWEEN Suez and Loheia, we had heard much of the independent Schiechs, who are unwilling to fuffer ftrangers to enter their dominions. From this circumstance we could not readily credit what was told us concerning the eafe and fecurity with which we might travel through the territories of the Imam of Sana. It was for this reason that we had wifhed to go ftraight by fea to Mokha; although we had been often enough oppofed by contrary winds, to make us weary of this mode of travelling. Two merchants of Mokha, who had fet out with us, determined, however, to continue their journey by land. We thought it might be proper to accompany them into the city, where we might learn from the governor, whether we could be safe to travel by land between Loheia and Mokha.

Dola, or Emir, is the title which the Arabs give to the governor of cities. He of Loheia was an Emir, and his name was Farhan. He was a native of Africa, and entirely black; but had been brought into Arabia in his youth, and fold to a man of rank, who was fince dead, after having occupied one of the firft offices in the fervice of the Imam. He had given young Farhan a good education, and had obtained for him a small office, in which he gave fo much fatisfaction, that his merit foon raised him to be Dola of a confiderable city. We found him to poffefs the dignified politenefs of a nobleman, the strict integrity, and the candid benevolence of a true friend to mankind.