noise like dropping water sounding out of the pitchy darkness of the passage, and finding this was the cause of our treasure-seeker's fear we stepped forwards. The lantern, however, now burned strangely, quite dimly when held near the ground, and brightly when held above our heads. This did not escape the notice of the three Capraers, who exclaimed, crossing themselves, that there must certainly be something wrong in the place, and begged of us to return. To this we assented, as being only prudent; but before doing so I stepped a little farther forward, holding the lantern on high, and observed a thick heavy vapour rising out of the ground, which I knew must be "fire-damp." Never having seen this phenomenon before, we strangers stood for an instant to regard it; the islanders, however, besought us to return, and were already making the best of their way out in the darkness, not one of them wishing to be last. Amusing as this hasty retreat appeared to us, we grew rather serious on discovering that we were no longer in the passage we had at first penetrated. The confused groping about of those who preceded me distracted my attention, and prevented my observing our error, even by the light of the lantern, until the spot we at length reached was strikingly different from any we had before seen. "Heaven save us!" exclaimed the islanders, on perceiving from its greater size and regularity that we were in a new passage.

At the point where we had discovered our mistake I now laid some stones in a certain position as a mark, and begged of them all to search this, which I concluded was the principal passage, the other appearing to me too small for a Roman work, expecting by the aid of the stones to be enabled to retrace our steps easily. The islanders, however, entreated me to give up my new adventure, and my friend was on the point of calling my attention to the small supply of oil remaining, when the light suddenly became extinguished, and we were left enveloped in impenetrable darkness. Thus lost in the thick gloom, without any knowledge of the locality-for it was now impossible to find the mark I had madethe islanders lost all heart, trembling with fear, and looking only for a death of starvation, and crying to all the saints for help. As I laid all the blame of our unfortunate situation on myself, my utmost efforts were alone requisite to enable me to preserve my presence of mind.

"There is nothing now left for us but trust in Providence," I cried. "One of us must stand still whilst the other four search about for passages. By calling to each other we shall easily keep together, and set ourselves right by the one who remains here.”

This idea was approved of by my German friend, and we were about carrying it into execution, when a terrible cry resembling the roar of a wild beast penetrated through the darkness, causing us all to huddle together in fear. The cry was repeated.

"God be praised!" exclaimed Michelo, the donkey-driver, "it is Angelo's voice which the echo renders so fearful-he is shouting Michelo!" "He is in truth an angel!" I cried. "He is not far distant, and we shall soon find the way out."

We moved cautiously forward, now shouting, then listening, in the direction of the sound, and had hardly gone fifty paces when we perceived a faint light, and shortly after the hewn window. After the thick darkness, the wonderful illumination of the water shone upon us with

twofold magnificence, and we all hailed good Angelo with a joyous "Eh viva!" He was still paddling about in his skiff; the fire, however, had burnt out, and as we had been so long a time absent he feared we might have met with an accident, and had shouted so lustily-half in fright for himself, and half for us. Gladly we plunged together into the subterranean sky, and as it was now ruffled by a fresh breeze Angelo begged of us to quit the grotto, observing that we must hurry if we hoped to complete the circuit of the island. We once more landed, threw our portfolios and camp-stools into the skiff which had carried the fire, regained the beautiful element, and swam out full of delight, but without the slightest idea as to the cause of the colour of the water, fully determined, on my part at least, to investigate the cause of it thoroughly at another time. The islanders thought themselves heroes, and looked with feelings of pride on the entrance to the grotto, thanking St. Anthony, however, that they had at length emerged. The donkey-driver anticipated a glorious reception on the part of the inhabitants of Capri, put the skiff into the smaller of the two boats, and went on board himself with the younger Pagano (the elder had already gone with a fisherman in another boat to Capri), whilst we embarked with Angelo in the larger.

"Does no one row us but you?" I asked.

"Be comforted," replied Angelo; "I am as good as two."

He then seized the oars, hung on the pegs, and rowed us out of the small bay, turning to the left, round the north-west part of the island. We observed more small caves in that direction, and, as the wind became fresh, very beautiful breakers on the numberless rocks. In a wedgeshaped opening the waves hurried in, dashing up on high in a pillar of water, and descending in dazzling spray, refulgent with all the colours of the rainbow. As we passed the numerous cliffs steering southwards, the waves rose higher and higher, and the shore became more bold and precipitous. With a firm grasp, Angelo battled with the foaming waters, whilst our light bark with its painted eyes danced over the sea like a dolphin. My companion could not enjoy the pleasing spectacle of Angelo's daring; having but recently recovered from a fever, the tossing of our boat brought on a severe headache.

"Saint Anthony!" suddenly, however, shrieked Angelo. One of the oar-pins had given in the hard struggle, and Angelo, losing his balance, allowed the oar to slip through his hand, when it was borne on the boiling waves, and was dashed against the rugged shore. I was terrified; for with a single oar what could we do in such raging waters. Swimming would prove of little avail, for the jagged rocks mounted almost perpendicularly to a height of 1000 feet. Our danger was increased by submerged cliffs, whose presence the broken waters and lashed-up foam too plainly indicated. On a projecting ledge I observed a man, who had lowered himself by a rope to collect plants. On seeing us he flung down his staff, and raised his hands heavenward at beholding the danger we were in. To descend further was impossible, and to expect assistance from him, although he appeared most anxious to aid us, was therefore out of the question.

Angelo did not suffer our embarrassment to deprive him of his pre

sence of mind. With the one oar he so guided our bark as to enable me to regain our lost oar and hand it to him. Before he could fix another pin, however, a swelling wave bore us on its crest towards the frowning rock, but he skilfully succeeded with both oars in stemming our course, although, in anticipation of the shock, I recoiled with horror, when rolling back with tremendous force it carried us away from the dreaded shore.

"Bravo, Angelo! bravo!" shouted the man on the rock; and with rejoicing hearts we repeated the cry.

It was truly a masterpiece of skill. Angelo's figure rose at the momentous period; the oars grew suddenly under his hands, his eyes flashed fire, his whole frame seemed suddenly rooted to the bottom of our boat, and-we were saved.

Our approbation produced but little effect on his features; he worked quietly on, but after a few seconds he gazed upon the rocky wall and exclaimed, "God be praised! Had you not given me the oar, we should all have been lost." Then striking in the new pin with his horny hand, he bent with renewed strength to the oars.

A DAY AT THE BARRICADES.

FORTUNATELY for themselves, few Englishmen are in a capacity to join with me in saying that they have also spent a day at the barricades; the inhabitants of this happy island are still blessedly ignorant of even the first principles of their erection, and none of our generals have been yet compelled to exchange the sword for the pen, and explain the proper method of scaling them. The only barricades we ever see are those raised in our thoroughfares when repairs are going on, to the profit of our cabmen; and the only weapons with which they are assailed are winged, but not death-dealing, consisting, as they do, of a volley of objurgations on the heads of the leaders of the destructive and constructive band.

Our political excitement ends in a very different fashion from that which was formerly en vogue on the Continent: when a thing grievously annoys us, and cannot by possibility be endured any longer, we even join together in a peaceful conspiracy, and abolish it by the employment of moral force-a more powerful weapon than all the warlike equipments to be found in Woolwich Arsenal. For all that, though, our cousins-german must not be utterly blamed for their appeal to the sword: they never were in a position to understand the real blessings of liberty, and persons under such circumstances are only too prone to be seduced by the meretricious blandishments of that painted lady, Democracy.

For my own part, I was led to comprehend the delights of revolution by a very peculiar process at the first outbreak of hostilities I may safely avouch that there was not a more peaceful Civis Britannicus in the whole territory of Baden than myself; but I presume the enjoyment of revolution is something like that of opium-the first taste is inexpressibly

nauseous, but, by degrees, it becomes a necessity to existence. At least, it was so in my case; when the news arrived across the frontier that Louis Philippe had scented the danger and betaken himself to England, under the vulgar name of Mr. Smith, I felt rather more than curious to know what would be the result of the movement in the ducal residence of Carlsruhe. Thither I went, and had the distinguished honour of forming one of the body-guard hurriedly raised to protect the grand duke from any hostile attack. Fortunately for myself, the only opportunity I found of exhibiting my prowess was in wielding my knife and fork, and drinking several bottles of the celebrated white wine from Eberstein, which, though heretofore exclusively kept for the grand ducal table, was, by the levelling process going on, considered not a whit too good for his gallant

defenders.

As the political excitement waxed fiercer, in equal ratio did mine, and I gradually found myself shouting vehemently for Hecker and other worthies, who have since left their country for their country's good, although up to that time their names were almost unknown to me, and it was a matter of perfect indifference whether the National Guard were formed or not. But here I must correct myself; for, after it came into existence, the unlucky drums used to beat the reveillé every morning at four o'clock, and I, consequently, lost a considerable portion of my natural rest.

The first great popular meeting that was held took place at Offenburg, and an ominous sign of the times was rendered by Hecker's reply to the request that he would accept office as minister of justice, "Ich kann kein Fürsten Diener seyn;" words which, although placed by Schiller in the mouth of the Marquis Posa, had a terrible significance here, as they left the people to choose between a grand duke who was indifferent to them, and a man like Hecker, who was born to be the darling of a mob.

The popular ferment increased instead of becoming diminished; armed meetings grew into fashion through the whole length of the land, from Heidelberg to Basle, and, to my sorrow I must confess, I went regularly to all of them. Hecker and his friends retired to Switzerland after the breaking up of the Vor Parliament, and all threatened a very lively episode in the history of Baden.

Towards the close of the month of May, the political refugees, wearied of the monotony of peace, thought it high time to have their innings, and word was soon brought that they were moving on the Rhine, as some said, with half a dozen red-trousered French regiments at their back. The excitement was of course intense, and a popular armed meeting was immediately convened at Freyburg, to see (in the words of the programme) what encouragement should be given to the progress of the Republic. But, before telling you what they said and did there, I may as well give a short description of this most interesting town.

Freyburg is situated in an exquisite valley in the Black Forest, at no great distance from the Swiss frontier and the Rhine. It contains a population of about 10,000 souls, and enjoys the usual gentle dulness of collegiate towns. It is the seat of the Catholic University of Baden, and would scarcely ever be visited by strangers were it not for the very splendid cathedral it boasts. It is, in fact, the finest specimen of Gothic architecture in a complete state to be found in Germany, or, I might Oct.-VOL. XCIX. NO. CCCXCIV.

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almost say, in Europe. At least I cannot, at the moment, recollect any other great church completed in accordance with the original design, 'except, perhaps, the Madeleine in Paris, or our own St. Paul's. The cathedral of Cologne may be grander in conception, but it is not yet finished, and never will be, unless they progress considerably faster than they are doing at present. "Besides this, Freyburg Cathedral is remarkable from being the result of the united energies of the people, for they completed it, after kings and princes had given up the task in despair. Houses and lands were mortgaged to raise the money; and where a man had neither, he voluntarily gave his days and labour to complete the noble work the result was one of the most beautiful buildings it is possible to imagine."

The presence of the cathedral in Freyburg has had considerable influence on the fortunes of the town; the inhabitants are perfectly well acquainted with the current value of English sovereigns, and do not evince the slightest objection to receive any quantity their distinguished visitors may feel inclined to exchange for Dutch clocks and straw hats, the staple articles of barter drawn from the Black Forest. From these data it might be inferred, naturally, that the population of the town would be disinclined towards revolution or rebellion, if you like to call it so; and so they would have been, if the season had commenced. As it was, they felt dull after a severe winter-their blood had been put in active circulation by the various émeutes all around them-strangers had not yet begun to appear, that is, those who were worth shearing, and the consequence was, the good people of Freyburg thought that they would have their fun as well, though it might be death to others: nor were the means and appliances wanting.

At the close of May, then, the long-talked-of armed popular meeting took place, and thousands flocked to Freyburg, myself among them. My knowledge of such assemblies was becoming rather extensive, and I soon saw that there was some mischief in the wind, through the number of strange faces I perceived, and which could only belong to Poles, those carrion crows of revolution. It was a most peculiar fact that, during the whole progress of the outbreaks in Vienna, Berlin, Frankfort, &c., Poles were immediately found in the front ranks as soon as the first gun was fired in anger. Whence they came nobody appeared to know, or how they disappeared; as soon as hostilities ceased they modestly retired, without waiting to receive the meed of valour at the hands of a grateful mob, or anticipating it by carrying away with them a few dozen silver spoons, and such unconsidered trifles, as a reminiscence.

As for the rest of the assembly, they were the old familiar faces; the detachment of blouse, or scythe, men, as they were indiscriminately termed, I had seen before, but, as my readers may not have enjoyed that peculiar good fortune, I may as well devote a few lines to them. They were a corps of picked men, of herculean forms, dressed in blue linen blouses and grey-felt sombreros, adorned with red feathers, and carried a most extraordinary weapon, formed of a combination of scythe and reaping-hook, fastened to the end of a pole about five feet long. This curious instrument was a reminiscence of the last Polish war, and was intended to be employed in repulsing cavalry attacks: the reaping-hook serving to catch the rider by the neck and drag him from the saddle, when the