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time in idle and perplexing speculations upon
those results. Yet, it seems to me, Fierce and more fierce the wordy contest
that wherever I turn, or whatever I do, the grows, Taunts, gibes and sneers, and everything hopes and fears, rise up before me, like
same facts, the same topics, the but blows;
some pursuing ghost that will not be laid. Each to a lonely couch in rage retires,
It is pain to hope for respite if I remain in Whence sleep is banished by vexatious the South, so I make up my mind to leave . fires.
for a while the cares and excitements of this eventful period, go back some eight
years and start on " a journey due North.” Breakfast renews the quarrel of my fable- Don't be alarmed, dear reader, I'm not She spoils the tea, and he upsets the going to run the blockade; I haven't contable;
tributed my mite to damn our currency by All patience lost, no power can peace im
paying exorbitant rates for gold or greenpart,
backs ;. I am not going to sneak across the Only in one thing they agree-to part,
Potomac with my pockets full of maps and charts, showing all the vulnerable points
in the South; you'll not have cause to Loud she proclaims the thousands that she curse my.double dealing, nor will you enbrought him;
joy the rather doubtful pleasure of reading He cool replies 'iwas only that which several columíns of a Yankee journal filled caught him :
with niisrepresentation and abuse, and “ The world shall know your conduct, headed in large capitals, “ Experience of brute,” she cries;
a Refugee in the South;” in fine, I'm not “Sooner the better, sweet," the youth re- going to Yankee land, but farther North, plies.
to that land over which there ever hangs a deep, and, to me, a dreadful gloom-to®
the Egypt of the civilization of the nineEquipped for starting see these quandam teenth century-in plain English, I am turtles;
going to Russia, and I want you to go with Dead'are Love's roses, withered are his me. myrtles;
I am not going alone, and can offer you Such are the ups and downs of Love's excellent company. My fellow traveller short story,
will not fail to please you.' He is a capi. . For better or for worse ”_'tis death or tal companion. His wit is excellent; his glory!
satire keen and refined; his good humor astonishing and universal, and his heart as
warm and as generous as you could wish. A TRIP TO ST. PETERSBURG * He has queer notions, but that is nothing.
All of as 'have our hobbies, and we ride I am heartily tired of hearing of war them unmercifully. He is an Englishman, and rumors of war, and I long for the time but is dark and foreign looking, with a good when I shall hear of it no more. I try to face, a gentlemanly air, and is somewhere read, but I cannot fix my thoughts upon in the neighborhood of thirty. His name my book, and when I take up my pen, I is George Augustus Sala, journalist and aufind myself wandering off into the all ab- thor. You know him well, I am sure, and sorbing topic-the coming spring cam. you have, li'se your humble servant, enjoypaign. I am content to await with pa- ed many a happy moment in poring over tience the results of the plans of our lead- his delightful stories and sketches; and I ers, but I am not willing to spend all my would not be surprised if yon, in your
blissful ignorance, have frequently thanked *“A Journey Due North, in the Summer Dickens for your pleasure, when really of 1856. By George Augustus Sala." your gratitude was due to Sala. Having
thus introduced to you my compagnon du many journeys in their company, and by voyage, and having gotten you ready to be. way of cheering myself in these dark and gin the "journey,”I must beg you to re- trying days, I propose to undertake “a jour. member that we are starting out in the ney due North,” and I repeat to you the Spring of 1856, and that if you derive any invitation to accompany me. You will see pleasure, as I h« pe you will, from this trip, and hear many strange things, and I hope your thanks will be due to George Angustus you will come home a wiser man, and with Sala, and not to me. I have no opinions a firm determination to do all in your pow. of my own, I simply give you the views er to prevent your country from becoming and experience of my companion. such a land as that to which I ask you to
“Who are you ?" you turn to me sud-repair--for it is precisely to such a condi. denly and ask. I thought this question tion that your enemies seek to reduce your would come before . long. It makes very glorious South. little difference, dear reader, who I am.
We are ready and away we go-the Were I to tell you, you would scarcely re-Atlantic is crossed, and the shores of the member my name. You will not find it
old world'are reached. We pause not a on the scrolls of fame, nor even in the
moment in our rapid flight, until we come “ Biographical Index,” where you can see
to Erquelines on the Belgian frontier, where Sala's.' Neither is it in the books of the
we find Sala awaiting us, and devoutly civil or military authorities with a black
thanking Heaven that he is done, for awhile mark attached to it, and above all, thank
at least, with the ordinary hum drum of Heaven ! it cannot be seen in any of the
European civilization, and about to enter police reports that disfigure our morning
a comparatively barbarous region, where papers. I am still “a youth to fortune and
everything will be new. He is delighted to fame unknown," and the only places where you will find my name stamped first proves a most agreeable companion.
to have us accompany him, and from the indelibly, are the sides of my shirts, and the watch-pocket of my-my-well-my Passing Erquelines, we enter the kingbreeches. I am perfectly honest, and you dom of Belgium. Hurrying on, we see a need not fear me because I refuse to give curious sentry box, which Sala tells us reyou my name. Το
you I must be, I–Mr, mịnds him of the Belgian lion sitting on 1-1 Esq'r, or plain 1-just as you please. his hind legs, and whigh lion he affirms is I am a great traveller, and I can tell you more like a sheep than the king of stories more wonderful and more truthful beasts. This sentry box tells us that the .than you can find in romance-stories that frontier is crossed and that our journey would make Old Sinbad the Sailor, die is fairly begun. It would be pleasant with envy. It takes me but a few mo- to linger awhile in the Royaume de Belments to go from Richmond to any part of gique, and visit the plains of Waterloo, the world, and above all, I possess that with its Mountain of the Lion, and the wonderful art, which enables me to travel almost bare spot called the Forrest of Soiin any, period or in any conveyance. It is gues-et
---the Flemish galleries-the city of just as easy for me to float lazily along in Brussels and the quaint old town of Antthe ark, as to steam merrily over the sea in werp--but we cannot pause. Sala declares the Great Eastern. I can inake a pilgrim. that the livery stable keepers would swinage on foot and with as little inconveni- dle one out of a fortune, and the beggars
I can travel in a first class railway would steal .the remainder, and with a carriage. All periods, all customs are shudder affirms that the low Dutch of the within my reach. I have only to choose Flemmings would drive one mad in a short between them. Ah! I see I've excited while-and, besides, he is in a hurry to your curiosity. You want to know the reach Russia. So we hasten on towards secret of this art? It is, dear reader, Liege, watching with eager eyes the wonwithin your grasp. My power is furnished drous panorama that stretches out before me by those dear, delightful, never chan. us, as we sweep down the slopes into the ging Genii that we call books. I make valley of the Meuse. Extending for miles
we see the beauteous valley, with little crossing the bridge of boats over the Rhine. hamlets scattered here and there, with the We carry away from the city the next bright and silvery line of the Meuse wind-morning anything but pleasant reminis. ing through it, and in the distance the cences of the Hotel, the landlord of which spires and domes of the city of Liege-all charged poor Sala for a night's lodging and made more beautiful by the soft light of some trifling refreshments, the, enormous the declining sun.
We watch the scene sum of five Prussian dollars (about three with the most intense interest until the dollars and fifty cents in our currency.) twilight settles gently over it, and before As for you and nie, my friend, we have we have cast off the spell it has thrown nothing to complain of. This Shylock of over us, the train stops and we are in a landlord is powerless to cheat us. Liege. We pause here for a short time
At six o'clock in the morning, we are off and then push on. Şettling ourselves com- for Berlin. Our travelling companions are fortably we fall asleep, and dream of home a bright eyed, rosy cheeked, warm-hearted until'a vigorous shake and a gruff voice young girl, a native of the region through asking Sala for his passport, aroubes us which we are passing, a shrivelled up, also, and tells us we are on the frontier of asthmatic old gentleman, who is paid to be Prussia. Soon we halt at Aix-la-Chapelle, a prince, with his coat covered with the and leaving the Belgian cars, with their ribbons of the order to which he belonged, heavy, cheerless compartments, their sheep (Sala thinks a little soap and water would skin rugs and zinc hot water boxes, we not hurt them,) an Englisman, and, (to enter the spruce, glistening, coquettish car. keep up the maxiır..) a fool-a good-naturriages, so daintily furbished with morocco ed, honest-hearted, hair-brained foul, a perleather, and plate glass, and varnished rect French numskull, ignorant and careless mahogany, which, together with the dress, of everything, rattling on incessantly with manners and language of our fellow-tra- his nonsense and keeping every one in a vellers, and the heavy clouds of tobacco good humor. With these companions, and smoke that fill the carriage, tell us we are Sala's ready wit, the time passes pleasin Germany, and are travelling in a first antly enough. class railway carriage. The natives, On our way we halt to obtain something under the rank of Baron, or Count, or with which to strengthen ihe inner man, General, rarely travel in these first at one of the numerous German refreshclass carriages, preferring the slower and ment rooms. They have a plenty and a less comfortable second and third classes, great variety of excellent fare, which is because they are cheaper. Indeed the very cheap, but Sala declares they are Germans have a maxim, which says receptacles for all the lame, halt and blind “None but princes, Englishmen and fools coins of all the insignificant States of Ger. travel by the first class.” Sala laughs at many. These you get in change for your this, and says, having no objection to the Napoleons or five-franc pieces, and if you society of princes, and feeling sure that he succeed in getting rid of them again, exmay fall into worse company than that ofcept at a heavy discount, you are a wise fools, he usually travels by the first class. man indeed. This mode of travelling has its comforts- We pass through Mindens, Hanover and the carriages are seldom more than half Brunswick, and keep on in our course to. full, and you have a plenty of room for wards Berlin. Brunswick sets Sala to talkyourself and bundles, and if you are inclining of "that valiant chieftain of the Black ed flirt, you will find ample opportunity Brunswickers that sate in the windowed for the exercise of your powers among the niche of the high hall, alone, cheerless, many bright eyed German damsels you brooding, thinking only of the bloody bier will meet on your route.
of his father and of revenge ;-and who We reach the city of Cologne at half left the Duchess of Richmond’s ball to die past eleven at night, and in the midst of a at Quatre Bras”-and while ḥe is in the heavy rain. We enter a cab and accom- midst of his reflections, he heais some one pany our friend to ihe " Hotel Doopeepel,” give the name its native pronunciation as he calls it, in the suburbs of Dentz, Braunschweig. " Ugh!" he cries, " what a
name. It destroys the illusion. I can't back to Stettin. We enjoy Sala's troubles think of the illustrious house that has given with the old German about his passport, a dynasty to the British throne as the house and rejoice with him when he receives it. of Braunschweig. It is as Cacaphonous We watch with interest the movements of in sound, as would be the house of Physic- our steamer, the “Preussischer Adler," bottles, instead of the house of Medeci”-|(thọ Prussian Eagle,) and are ready to and forth with be launches a terrible invec- shout for joy when, at noon, on the seventive upon the Germans for their abomina- teenth of May, 1856, we stand on the quarble pronunciation of proper names. ter deck of that vessel and watch the
Magdebourg is reached and left behind, shores of the Oder, as we glide by them. with its memories of Baron Trenck, and Three times three ! we are really en route about eleven o'clock at night, we arrived for St. Petersburg the great. at Berlin. After satisfying the Police, we A fine ship is the "Preussischer Adler," go to the Hotel de Russie, where we are and at present is commanded by Captain forced to stop for some time. It is the Steffens of the Prussian Navy (!). Her 27th of April, and we hope to proceed at crew, from the first mate down to the senla once to Stettin in Pomerania, and take the lions, are decked out in the finest and most first steamer for St. Petersburg. But, alas ! brilliant costumes. Everything is mag. we find grave doubts expressed in Berlin, nificent on the “Preussischer Adler”-even as to the possibility of such a scheme. The to the amount of passage money one has Baltic and the Gulf of Finland are full o: to pay. For a sixty hours' påssage you ice, and we will have to wait until some pay nearly fifty dollars. The steamer on time in May, before we can sail. We wait which we are' embarked is the very best patiently, or rather, with patience and in Northern Europe. Her passengers aregrumbling combined. We spend two usually the very best in the world-Princes, weeks in Berlin. We visit Charlottenbourg, Dukes, Counts-in fine, all who have the Thier Garten, the Sans Souci palace, wealth and influence enough to obtain the Pottsdam, Krotts, the Touballe and Monbi- Czar's permission to travel. We are traveljou, and stroll for hours Unter den Linden; ling in style, and we must pay for it. we wander through the glorious museums, At last we are out of the Oder and are and feast our eyes on the treasures of soi- ploughing the blue waters of the Baltic. ence, art and history, we go to the opera We see for a while tre distant coast of the and applaud, we listen to that wondrous Swedish islands, and continue steadily Ob:ron of Weber, until we are fairly drunk on our course towards Cronstadt. with its almost supernatural melody, and There are thirty passengers on board, inat the theatre we see that miracle of a cluding Mr. Sala-you and I are not counted play-the Faust, and although we don't among them. Several are curiosities in understand a word of it, come away with their way, and Sala affords ,us many a the firm conviction that the play and the laugh in describing them. We listen, with performance are miracles of art, and all difficulty restraining our laughter, to the night we dream of that wierd Mephistoph comments of our fellow.passengers, Capeles, with his quaint hood, singular gait, tain Smith, who is travelling, heaven only his mocking gestures, his devil's grin, bis knows for what, and who entertains a great vibrating voice, the red cock's featber, the contempt for the · Preussischer Adler,” long peaked shoes, and the sardonically and all in charge of her, and we laugh, turned up moustache.
almost in his face, as we hear him speak Two weeks—dull weeks to Sala—but of the ship, grumble at the number of delightful to us—then we bid adieu and“ dalers she gosiet,” and hear bim gravely set off for Stettin, where we find our declare “de shib is not vort a tam." We steamer high and dry in the dock under- enjoy.ourselves hugely over the little skire going repairs. We have a plenty of time, mishes between Sala and that sharp, sour so we cross over to Denmark, take a look old maid, Miss Wappi. Poor Sala, the spiter at Copenhagen, visit Roskilde, with its ful woman keeps him in a continual fever. burial place of the Seakings, and then She seems to have taken up a dislike'for crossing over to Malmoc in Sweden, go him from the first, and persecutes him on
all occasions. She sharply denies that he steamer, a sort of miniature man-of-war, is an Englishman, and charges him with glides along side of us, and makes fast to being a Jesuit and a spy. She doesn't be our huge hull.
see her clean lieve he is going to Russia, and when he decks, with her four little brass guns, which asks her to let him have the pleasure of look like toys beside the heavy ordnance helping her to some wine, she fairly over- of the forts. She is a home-built steamer, whelms him with the bitterness of her her machinery and entire equipment being refusal. At last ho, polite as he is, is forced made in Russia. Her crew are tall, hearty to declare, in the language of our friend fellows, mostly Finns, and her captain sits Captain Smith, slie “is not vort a tam." on the paddle bridge in a crimson-cushioned We have also a pretty little French actress, arm chair, in full uniform, and enjoying a
who is going to Moscow to assist in the paper cigar.” Scarcely has the little dramatic festival at the Coronation of the steamer made fast to us, when a plank is Emperor, and then there is a Russian noble- run up to the deck of our ship, and a handman, whose leave has expired, and who is rail placed along side of it. The upper going home. He and Sala are much to- end of the rail is fastened to our ship, while gether, and the latter introduces bim to us. the lower end is held by one of the man-e. We find him quite an agreeable travelling war’s men. For three mortal hours he companion. very polite, very gentlemanly, stands there and holds it, as very proud, very skeptical, very heartless, as a statue. Poor fellow! he dares not let and preferring the French to his native it gow--he has been ordered to hold it, and tongue. Indeed, the Russian vobility rarely he must do so if it kills him. zise their native language. French is spoken almost universaliy.
After waiting for more than three hours, All goes well, and we are delighted with we are summoned into the cabin and our voyage. A little after noon, on the questioned by a government spy, (who bas 20th of May, we cast anchor in ihe harbor travelled with us from Stettin, mixing of Cronstadt. Scarcely has the vessel
freely with all the passengers,) with regard paused before we see appear above her to our motives in coming to-Russia. Inbulwarks the fielmets, and then the heavy stead of our passports we receive, each, a gray, surtouts, of a dozen of the dirtiest large card, bearing a double eagle stamp, human beings to be found on earth. These in coarse red wax, which is sufficient to are the Russian Police, come to take ckarge carry us to Peterslurg. Since we have of the Preussischer Adier," and to see
been at anchor, our Russian 'friend has tliat we don't blow up the harbor, or carry been very distant. It will not do for him off one of the forts, or do something else to be friendly with foreigners now that he equally dangerous. They quietly take pos
is under the eyes of the government of: session of all the luggage on boarii the ship.
ficers, and we may as well wait patiently until We take leave of the “Preussischer they are willing to let us so free, employ. Adler" go on board of the little steamer ing ourselves in the meantime in looking along.side, and are off for St. Petersburg. around. As far as we can see, there are we have now an opportunity of examin.
forigand ships-- nothing but forts anu ships.ing the steamer more closely. She is a • The dark guns frown down upon us out of mocel of beauty, and fitted up with taste
their scowling casemates, and the masts of and elegance. Having eaten nothing since the ships form almost a perfect forest far morning, we proceed immediately 10. the a way up the harbor we can see the dis-retreshment room, and there our friend masted hulks of the Russian line of batile Sala is swindled into treating some burley ships, laying up in ordinary. The harbor Dutchman to a beefsteak. In return for is very gay, with small skitts and swift this, the Dutchman recommends him to a man o war's boats, moving to and fro; the botel in Petersburg. Sala tries a drink of sky is bright and the day balmy. Cron vodki, and spits it out with a not very proper Stadt. itself, we can see in the distance but exclamation. He tells us it tastes of mot enough of it to satisfy our curiosity. binge water, vitriol, turpentine, copal-var
While we are waiting, a fairy.like littlel nisli, fire and castor oil.” To take the taste