The view from the height embraced no less than seven counties; and on every side was terminated by a noble perspective of distant mountains. Cumberland and Westmoreland, with their fertile and picturesque tracts were spread beneath;-beyond, extended Lancaster and a part of Yorkshire; in the east appeared the blue heights of Northumberland and Durham; and far in the north, the Cheviot Hills of Scotland. The latter I hailed with peculiar satisfaction; for they seemed to be my own; and to Caledonia I turned with something at least of the affection of a step-son. Among the nearer objects in the landscape it gave me pleasure to distinguish Ulswater;-which next to Keswick, is reputed to be the prettiest of all the pretty lakes in this romantic region. I had looked for it last evening, but was prevented from descrying it, by a mist which hung over its surface. It was now plainly perceptible throughout its extent;-its deep line,' including 'promontory, creek and bay,' being marked with singular precision; and its waters, under the radiance of the morning sun, presenting 'one burnished sheet of living gold.'- At eight o'clock, I left Penrith in the stage coach for Hawick, a journey of sixty miles. Between P. and Carlisle the country presented few objects of attention. In general, its face was diversified with rich long swells, mostly well cultivated. A few patches of woodland appeared, and our road lay through Inglewood Forest, so called: a tract, however, which little deserves the appellation. I was rather pleased than otherwise with the first view of Carlisle. Several large public buildings, which have recently been erected, contribute to modernise somewhat its appearance: but still it looks very old, as it is. Formerly, it was strongly fortified; but its walls, excepting on one side, are in a state of decay. The portion which remains is used by the proprietors of the neighbouring soil as a garden wall; and the fruit trees which they have trained against it, thrive uncommonly well. The castle also which anciently was a fortress of great strength, is at present going fast to ruin: only a part of it is kept in tolerable repair, and that for the accommodation of a few soldiers who are appointed to garrison it. As the coach was delayed an hour at Carlisle, I employed the interval in visiting this castle;-and a more venerable and imposing pile is hardly to be met with in Great Britain. It forms one great quadrangle, the outer circuit of its walls being not less than half a mile. The inclosed area is now covered with a turf of the liveliest verdure; so fresh and smooth that no bowling green in England can surpass it in beauty. The matted ivy is seen creeping over its wall in the wildest luxuriance, as if to conceal the ravages which time and the tempest are continually augmenting; and along its ramparts the rank grass grows profusely, interspersed with numberless wall-flowers, which are now in perfection and exhale the choicest fragrance. The castle, with a citadel which was recently standing, was built by William Rufus; and during the repairs which it has undergone at successive periods since, the original plan of its construction has in most respects been adhered to.-Of the many transactions which marks its long and eventful history, are of the most painful and interesting, is the confinement within its walls, of the unhappy Mary, Queen of Scots. I looked into the apartments which she occupied; they are in a round tower, which, though partly dilapidated, has not suffered so much as other portions of the castle. Some lumber and a few pieces of rude furniture are ranged around them; and the walls and floor are thickly covered with cobwebs and dust. From the battlements of the tower a view is obtained of the hills of Dumfrieshire in Scotland;-objects the sight of which must have administered little comfort to the captive, ill fated Queen. The ancient keep of the castle remains, and a well of great depth is also shown, the work, as it is supposed, of the Romans. Returning from the castle I visited the cathedral, a venerable structure, partly of Saxon and partly of Gothic architecture. On the screens in the aisles, I noticed some singular and amusing legendary paintings of St. Augustine and St. Anthony, with a doggerel distich attached to each. Turning from these, I sought the tomb of Paley; but I sought it in vain among the 'storied urns and animated busts,' which were ranged ostentatiously along the aisles and transepts of the cathedral. But is there no monument to Paley? inquired I, of the verger who attended me.—' His ashes are under you,' he replied, and in truth they were. Stepping aside I traced on a plain gray slab in the pavement on which I had been standing, this simple inscription. Here lie interred the remains of Wm. Paley, D. D., who died May 25th, 1805, aged 62 years.'-This imperfect memorial is all that marks the spot, which is consecrated by the mortal remains of one of the purest Christians, and soundest philosophers of his age and country. His works however survive him;-and they will abide an imperishable record of his worth;— monumentum, Quod non imber edax, non Aquilo impotens Possit diruere, aut innumerabilis Annorum series, et fuga temporum. A monument, which Nor years though numberless the train, Nor flight of seasons, wasting rain, Shall e'er its firm foundation shake. The famous Roman wall which was built from sea to sea, passed within a quarter of a mile of Carlisle. It is said that the city owes its name to this circumstance; Carlisle being compounded of the Saxon words caer lyell, which mean a city near a wall. Remains of this stupendous work are very perceptible in the neighbourhood. Leaving Carlisle, another stage brought us to Longtown, a frontier town, where we stopped to dine. Four miles further, we entered Scotland, at a place called the Scots Dyke; leaving Gretna Green, of hymeneal memory, at a little distance on our left. The stage to Langholm was delightful;-the road leading along the romantic windings of Eskdale, and crossing its pretty river some five or six times in the course of as many miles. What added to its interest, was the circumstance of its traversing the scene of Lady Heron's song in Marmion. Netherby Hall was passed a little way distant on our right: after which we entered on Canobie Lea whereon was the 'racing and chasing,' when the fair Ellen eloped with young lord Lochinvar.-It was impossible also to forget the renowned Jonny Armstrong, in viewing spots rendered memorable by his exploits;-and approaching Langholm, I did not fail to look out for Hallows Tower, formerly the residence of this redoubtable hero. Near Mosspaul, we crossed a ridge of land which separates the waters that flow east and west. The Esk had left us at Langholm; but it sent on a little branch which accompanied us a few miles, and struggled hard, though in vain, to hold out further. Its loss however was not long perceived,-for soon another rill was seen purling by the way side, and pursuing an opposite direction. This was the Teviot, just in the commencement of its course. I had beheld the stream only once before, and then at Kelso, where it mingles its waters with the Tweed. Its appearance there was very respectable; and contrasting it with its present infantile aspect, it would have required a rare degree of physiognomical skill to have traced any resemblance in its features, or other marks of its identity. This stream gives name to one of the most romantic dales in Scotland, and after dispensing fertility and beauty throughout its own course, and swelling not a little the waters of the Tweed, at length enters the sea by an outlet, an hundred miles distant from the mouth of the Esk. Before reaching Hawick, we crossed the Teviot two or three times. The last was by Branxholm bridge; the road a little before having passed within a few yards of Branxholm castle, or more properly, house. This is the Branksome of Walter Scott. Its situation he has well described; being, as he says, 'upon a steep bank, surrounded by the Teviot, and flanked by a deep ravine, formed by a precipitous brook.' In point of size, it must have been greatly reduced since the days of Magaret of Branksome; and the various alterations which it has undergone have left it little of the castellated form, excepting one square, massive tower. It still, however, is a spacious structure, having much of comfort, though nothing of elegance in its appearance. Opposite to Branxholm is a hill which the poet's fancy has marvellously magnified into a mountain. It is the same which he introduces as conferring with Teviot's tide,' in that whimsical colloquy between the river and mountain spirits described in the First Canto to the Lay.' On the borders of the barony we beheld the confluence of the Borthwick and Teviot waters.-Leaving this, we passed Goldiland ruins;-and a ride of two miles more brought us, late in the evening, to Hawick. May 7th.-At an early hour, the coach was again on the road. The morning light showed imperfectly, as we drove from Hawick, an artificial eminence which Scott refers to, as the moathill's mound Where Druid forms once flitted round. It is conjectured to be a remain of Celtic antiquity; and, if so, was probably a place of rendezvous for general councils from the adjacent clans. Similar heaps are not infrequent in north Britain. Approaching Selkirk, we crossed Philiphaugh, memorable as the battle ground between the parliament forces and those of king Charles, when the latter, under |