smallest toll or turnpike. You will suppose this of incommoding the ladies in front, when this fair when I rode post to Seville in four days, through Spaniard dispossessed an old woman (an aunt or a this parching country, in the midst of summer, duenna) of her chair, and commanded me to be without fatigue of annoyance. Seville is a beauti- seated next herself, at a tolerable distance from her ful town; though the streets are narrow they are mamma. At the close of the performance I with clean. We lodged in the house of two Spanish drew, and was lounging with a party of men in the unmarried ladies, who possess six houses in Seville, passage, when, en passant, the lady turned round and gave me a curious specimen of Spanish man- and called me, and I had the honor of attending ners. They are women of character, and the eld- her to the admiral's mansion. I have an invitation est, a fine woman, the youngest pretty, but not so on my return to Cadiz, which I shall accept, if I good a figure as Donna Josepha. The freedom of repass through the country on my return from Asia. manner which is general here, astonished me not a "I have met Sir John Carr, knight errant, at Selittle; and in the course of further obervation I find ville and Cadiz. He is a pleasant man. I like the that reserve is not the characteristic of the Spanish Spaniards much. You have heard of the battle belles, who are, in general, very handsome, with near Madrid, and in England they call it a victorylarge black eyes, and very fine forms. The eldest a pretty victory! two hundred officers, and five honored your unworthy son with very particular thousand men killed, all English; and the French attention, embracing him with great tenderness at in as great force as ever. I should have joined the parting, (I was there but three days,) after cutting army, but we have no time to lose before we get up uff a lock of his hair, and presenting him with one the Mediterranean and Archipelago. I am going over of her own, about three feet in length, which I to Africa to-morrow; it is only six miles from this send, and beg you will retain till my return. Her fortress. My next stage is Cagliari in Sardinia, last words were, Adios, tu hermoso! me gusto where I shall be presented to his majesty. I have mucho. Adieu, you pretty fellow, you please me a most superb uniform as a court dress, indismuch.' She offered a share of her apartment, which pensable in travelling. my virtue induced me to decline: she laughed, and August 13th.-I have not been to Africa; the said I had some English amante,' (lover,) and wind is contrary; but I dined yesterday at Alge added that she was going to be married to an officer siras, with Lady Westmoreland, where I met Genin the Spanish army. eral Castanos, the celebrated Spanish leader, in the late and present war: to-day I dine with him; he has offered me letters to Tetuan in Barbary, for the principal Moors; and I am to have the house for a few days of one of the great men, which was intended for Lady W., whose health will not permit her to cross the Straits. "I left Seville, and rode on to Cadiz, through a beautiful country. At Xeres, where the sherry we drank is made, I met a great merchant, a Mr. Gordon of Scotland, who was extremely polite, and favored me with the inspection of his vaults and cellars, so that I quaffed at the fountain head. "Cadiz, sweet Cadiz, is the most delightful town August 15th.-I could not dine with Castanos yesI ever beheld, very different from our English cities terday, but this afternoon I had that honor; he is in every respect, except cleanliness, (and it as clean pleasant, and for aught I know to the contrary, as London,) but still beautiful and full of the finest clever. I cannot go to Barbary. The Malta packet women in Spain, the Cadiz belles being the Lan- sails to-morrow, and myself in it. Admiral Purvis, cashire witches of their land. Just as I was intro- with whom I dined at Čadiz, gave me a passage in a duced, and began to like the grandees, I was forced frigate to Gibralter, but we have no ship of war des to leave it for this accursed place; but before I re- tined for Malta at present. The packets sail fast, turn to England I will visit it again. The night and have good accommodations. You shall hear before I left it, I sat in the box at the opera with from me on our route. Joe Murray delivers this. I Admiral Cordova's family; he is the commander have sent him and the boy back; pray show the whom Lord St. Vincent defeated in 1797, and has lad every kindness, as he is my great favorite. I an aged wife and a fine daughter, Senorita Cordova; hope this will find you well. the girl is very pretty in the Spanish style, in my opinion by no means inferior to the English in charms, and certainly superior in fascination. Long "P. S. So Lord G. is married to a rustic! well black hair, dark languishing eyes, clear olive com- done! If I wed, I will bring you home a Sultana. plexions, and forms more graceful in motion than with half a dozen cities for a dowry, and reconcile can be conceived by an Englishman used to the you to an Ottoman daughter-in-law with a bushel of drowsy, listless air of his countrywomen, added to pearls, not larger than ostrich eggs or smaller than the most becoming dress, and, at the same time, walnuts." "Believe me, ever yours sincerely, LETTER XLVIII. TO MR. RUSHTON. "BYRON. "Gibraltar, August 15, 1509. the most decent in the world, render a Spanish beauty irresistible. I beg leave to observe that intrigue here is the business of life; when a woman marries she throws off all restraint, but I believe their conduct is chaste enough before. If you make a proposal, which in England would bring a box on the ear from the meekest of virgins, to a Spanish girl, she thanks you for the honor you intend her, and replies, Wait till I am married, and I shall be too happy.' This is literally and strictly true. Miss C. and her little brother understood a little French," MR. RUSHTON, and, after regretting my ignorance of the Spanish, "I have sent Robert home with Mr. Murray, be she proposed to become my preceptress in that lan- cause the country which I am about to travel guage. I could only reply by a low bow, and express through is in a state which renders it unsafe, par my regret that I quitted Cadiz too soon to permit ticularly for one so young. I allow you to deduct me to make the progress which would doubtless at- five-and-twenty pounds a year for his education for tend my studies under so charming a directress. I three years, provided I do not return before that was standing at the back of the box, which resem- time, and I desire he may be considered as in my ser bles our opera boxes, (the theatre is large, and vice. Let every care be taken of him, and let him finely decorated, the music admirable,) in the man- be sent to school. In case of my death I have pro ner in which Englishmen generally adopt, for fear vided enough in my will to render him independent. See Childe Harold, canto i., stanza lxv., &c. 1 Don Juan, canto i., stanza viii. * See Childe Harold, canto i., stanza lxv., &c. He has behaved extremely well, and has travelled a great deal for the time of his absence. Deduct the expense of his education from your rent. "BYRON." LETTERS. LETTER XLIX. TO THE HONORABLE MRS. BYRON. DEAR MOTHER, "Malta, Sept. 15, 1809. &c., I have not been permitted to pay for a single "I rode out on the vizier's horses, and saw the palaces of himself and grandsons: they are splendid, but too much ornamented with silk and gold. I then went over the mountains through Zitza, a vil"Though I have a very short time to spare, being lage with a Greek monastery, (where I slept on my to sail immediately for Greece, I cannot avoid return,) in the most beautiful situation (always extaking an opportunity of telling you that I am well. cepting Cintra, in Portugal) I ever beheld. In nine I have been in Malta, a short time, and have found days I reached Tepalen. Our journey was much the inhabitants hospitable and pleasant. This letter prolonged by the torrents that had fallen from the is committed to the charge of a very extraordinary mountains, and intersected the roads. I shall never woman, whom you have doubtless heard of, Mrs. forget the singular scene on entering Tepalen at Spencer Smith, of whose escape the Marquis de five in the afternoon, as the sun was going down. It Salvo published a narrative a few years ago. She brought to my mind (with some change of dress, has since been shipwrecked, and her life has been however) Scott's description of Branksome Castie from its commencement so fertile in remarkable in- in his Lay, and the feudal system. The Albanians, eidents, that in a romance they would appear im- in their dresses, (the most magnificent in the probable. She was born at Constantinople, where world, consisting of a long white kilt, gold-worked her father, Baron Herbert, was Austrian ambas-cloak, crimson velvet gold laced jacket and waistsador; married unhappily, yet has never been coat, silver-mounted pistols and daggers,) the Tarimpeached in point of character; excited the ven- tars with their high caps, the Turks in their vast geance of Bonaparte by a part in some conspi- pelisses and turbans, the soldiers and black slaves racy; several times risked her life; and is not yet with the horses, the former in groups in an im twenty-five. She is here in her way to England, mense large open gallery in front of the palace, to join her husband, being obliged to leave Trieste, the latter placed in a kind of cloister below it, two where she was paying a visit to her mother, by hundred steeds ready caparisoned to move in a have patches, the kettle-drums beating, boys calling the the approach of the French, and embarks soon moment, couriers entering or passing out with disSince my arrival here, in a ship of war. had scarcely any other companion. I have found hour from the minaret of the mosque-altogether, her very pretty, very accomplished, and extremely ec- with the singular appearance of the building itself, centric. Bonaparte is even now so incensed against formed a new and delightful spectacle to a stranment, and my health inquired after by the vizier's her, that her life would be in some danger if she ger. I was conducted to a very handsome apartwere taken prisoner a second time. "The next day I was introduced to Ali Pacha. I You have seen Murray and Robert by this time, secretary, 'á la-mode Turque!' and received my letter-little has happened since that date. I have touched at Cagliari, in Sardinia, was dressed in a full suit of staff uniform, with a and at Girgenti, in Sicily, and embark to-morrow very magnificent sabre, &c. The vizier received me He received me for Patras, from whence I proceed to Yanina, where in a large room paved with marble; a fountain* surrounded by scarlet ottomans. Ali Pacha holds his Court, so I soon shall be among was playing in the centre; the apartment was standing, a wonderful compliment from a Mussulthe Mussulmans. man, and made me sit down on his right hand. I have a Greck interpreter for general use, but a physician of Ali's, named Femlario, who understands Latin, acted for me on this occasion. His first question was, why, at so early an age, I left my country?-(the Turks have no idea of travelling for amusement.) He then said, the English minister, Captain Leake, had told him I was of a great family, and desired his respects to my mother; which I now, in the name of Ali Pacha, present to He said he was certain I was a man of birth, "I have now been some time in Turkey; his you. place is on the coast, but I have traversed the inte- because I had small ears, curling hair, and little rior of the province of Albania on a visit to the white hands,† and expressed himself pleased with Pacha. I left Malta in the Spider, a brig of war, my appearance and garb. He told me to consider on the 21st of September, and arrived in eight days him as a father while I was in Turkey, and said he at Prevesa. I thence have been about one hundred looked on me as his son. Indeed, he treated me and fifty miles as far as Tepalen, his highness's like a child, sending me almonds and sugared country palace, where I stayed three days. The sherbet, fruit and sweetmeats, twenty times a day. saw him thrice name of the Pacha is Ali, and he is considered a He begged me to visit him often, and at night, man of the first abilities: he governs the whole of when he was at leisure. I then after coffee and Albania, (the ancient Illyricum,) Epirus, and part pipes, retired for the first time. "Adieu. Believe me with sincerity, yours ever, LETTER L. TO MRS. BYRON. "MY DEAR MOTHER, "P, Nr. 12, 1809. of Macedonia. His son, Vely Pacha, to whom he afterward. It is singular that the Turks, who have of the most picturesque beauty, I found that Ali not tall, but with a fine face, light blue eyes, and a I • The "Florence" of several of his smaller poems; and alluded to in Childe Harold, canto ii., stanza xxx. ↑ See Childe Harold, canto ii., stanza lxv • See Don Juan, canto v., stanza Iv., and note. † Ibid, stanza cvi., and note. um, he prefers the English interest, and abhors the "I could tell you I know not how many incidents French, as he himself told me. He is of so much that I think would amuse you, but they crowd on consequence, that he is much courted by both; the my mind as much as they would swell my paper Albanians being the most warlike subjects of the and I can neither arrange them in the one, nor put Sultan, though Ali is only nominally dependent on them down on the other, except in the greatest the Porte. He has been a mighty warrior; but is confusion. I like the Albanians much; they are as barbarous as he is successful, roasting rebels, not all Turks; some tribes are Christians. But &c., &c. Bonaparte sent him a snuff-box, with his their religion makes little difference in their manpicture; he said the snuff-box was very well, but ner or conduct. They are esteemed the best troops the picture he could excuse, as he neither liked it in the Turkish service. I lived on my route two nor the original. His ideas of judging of a man's days at once, and three days again, in a barrack at birth from ears, hands, &c., were curious enough. Salora, and never found soldiers so tolerable, though To me, he was, indeed, a father, giving me letters, I have been in the garrisons of Gibraltar and Malta, guards, and every possible accommodation. Our and seen Spanish, French, Sicilian, and British next conversations were of war aud travelling, pol- troops in abundance. I have had nothing stolen, itics and England. He called my Albanian soldier, and was always welcome to their provision and who attends me, and told him to protect me at all milk. Not a week ago an Albanion chief, (every hazard. His name is Viscillie, and like all the village has its chief, who is called Primate,) after Albanians, he is brave, rigidly honest, and faithful; helping us out of the Turkish galley in her distress, but they are cruel, though not treacherous; and feeding us, and lodging my suite, consisting of have several vices, but no meannesses. They are, Fletcher, a Greek, two Athenians, a Greek priest, perhaps, the most beautiful race, in point of counte- and my companion, Mr. Hobhouse, refused any nance, in the world; their women are sometimes compensation but a written paper stating that I handsome also, but they are treated like slaves, was well received; and when I pressed him to beaten, and, in short, complete beasts of burden; accept a few sequins, 'No,' he replied; ‘I wish you they plough, dig, and sow. I found them carrying to love me, not to pay me.' These are his words. wood, and actually repairing the highways. The "It is astonishing how far money goes in this men are all soldiers, and war and the chase their country. While I was in the capital, I had nothing sole occupation. The women are the laborers, to pay, by the vizier's order; but since, though which, after all, is no great hardship in so delightful have generally had sixteen horses, and generally a climate. Yesterday, the 11th of November, I six or seven men, the expense has not been half as bathed in the sea; to-day it is so hot that I am much as staying only three weeks in Malta, though writing in a shady room of the English consul's, Sir A. Ball, the governor, gave me a house for with three doors wide open, no fire, or even fire-place nothing, and I had only one servant. By-the-by, I in the house; except for culinary purposes. expect Hanson to remit regularly; for I am not "To-day I saw the remains of the town of Acti- about to stay in this province for ever. Let him * near which Antony lost the world, in a small write to me at Mr. Strane's, Euglish consul, Patras. bay, where two frigates could hardly manœuvre : a The fact is, the fertility of the plains is wonderful, broken wall is the sole remnant. On another part and specie is scarce, which makes this remarkable of the gulf stands the ruins of Nicopolis, built by cheapness. I am going to Athens to study modem Augustus in honor of his victory. Last night I was Greek, which differs much from the ancient, though at a Greek marriage; but this and a thousand things radically similar. I have no desire to return to more I have neither time nor space to describe. England, nor shall I, unless compelled by absolute "I am going to-morrow, with a guard of fifty want, and Hanson's neglect; but I shall not enter men, to Patras in the Morca, and thence to Athens, into Asia for a year or two, as I have much to see where I shall winter. Two days ago I was nearly in Greece, and I may perhaps cross into Africa, at lost in a Turkish ship of war, owing to the igno- least the Egyptian part. Fletcher, like all Englishrance of the captain and crew, though the storm men, is very much dissatisfied, though a little was not violent. Fletcher yelled after his wife, the reconciled to the Turks by a present of eighty Greeks called on all the saints, the Mussulmans on piastres from the vizier, which, if you consider Alla; the captain burst into tears and ran below every thing, and the value of specie here, is nearly deek, telling us to call on God; the sails were split, ten guineas English. He has suffered nothing but the mainyard shivered, the wind blowing fresh, the from cold, heat, and vermin, which those who lie in night setting in, and all our chance was to make cottages and cross mountains in a cold country Corfu, which is in possession of the French, or (as must undergo, and of which I have equally partaken Fletcher pathetically termed it) a watery grave.' with himself; but he is not valiant, and is afraid of I did what I could to console Fletcher, but finding robbers and tempests. I have no one to be remem him incorrigible, wrapped myself up in my Albanian bered to in England, and wish to hear nothing from capote, (an immense cloak,) and lay down on deck it, but that you are well, and a letter or two on to wait the worst. I have learned to philosophize business from Hanson, whom you may tell to write. in my travels, and if I had not, complaint was use-I will write when I can, and beg you to believe me, less. Luckily the wind abated, and only drove us "Your affectionate son, on the coast of Suli, on the main land, where we "BYRON. landed, and proceeded, by the help of the natives, "P. S. I have some very 'magnifique' Albanian to Prevesa again; but I shall not trust Turkish dresses, the only expensive article in this country. sailors in future, though the Pacha had ordered one They cost fifty guineas each, and have so much of his own galliots to take me to Patras. I am there- gold they would cost in England two hundred. fore going as far as Misselonghi by land, and there have been introduced to Hussim Bey and Mahmout have only to cross a small gulf to get to Patras. Pacha, both little boys, grand-children of Ali, at "Fletcher's next epistle will be full of marvels: Yanina. They are totally unlike our lads, have we were one night lost for nine hours in the moun- painted complexions like rouged dowagers, large tains in a thunder-storm, and since nearly wrecked. black eyes, and features perfectly regular. They In both cases, Fletcher was sorely bewildered, from are the prettiest little animals I ever saw, and are apprehensions of famine and banditti in the first, broken into the court ceremonies already. The and drowning in the second, instance. His eyes Turkish salute is a slight inclination of the head, were a little hurt by the lightning, or crying, (I with the hand on the breast. Intimates always don't know which,) but are now recovered. When kiss. Mahmout is ten years old, and hopes to see me you write, address to me at Mr. Stranes, English again. We are friends without understanding each consul, Patras, Morea. ⚫ See Childe Harold, canto i., stanza xlv. other, like many other folks, though from a different cause. He has given me a letter to his father in the Morea, to whom I have also letters from Ali Pacha." "Salsette Frigate, off the Dardanelles, April 17, 1810. "DEAR MADAM, "I cannot write you a long letter, but as I know you will not be sorry to receive any intelligence of "I write at anchor, (in our way to Constantinomy movements, pray accept what I can give. Iple,) off the Troad, which I traversed two days ago. have traversed the greatest part of Greece, besides All the remains of Troy are the tombs of her Epirus, &c., &c., resided ten weeks at Athens, and destroyers, among which I see that of Antilochus am now on the Asiatic side on my way to Constan- from my cabin window. These are large mounds tinople. I have just returned from viewing the of earth, like the barrows of the Danes in your ruins of Ephesus, a day's journey from Smyrna. I island. There are several monuments, about twelve presume you have received a long letter I wrote from miles distant, of the Alexandrian Troas, which I Albania, with an account of my reception by the also examined; but by no means to be compared Pacha of the province. with the remnants of Athens and Ephesus. This "When I arrive at Constantinople, I shall deter-will be sent in a ship of war bound with despatches mine whether to proceed into Persia or return, for Malta. In a few days we shall be at Constantiwhich latter I do not wish, if I can avoid it. But I nople, barring accidents. I have also written from have no intelligence from Mr. Hanson, and but one Smyrna, and shall, from time to time, transmit letter from yourself. I shall stand in need of remit- short accounts of my movements, but I feel totally tances, whether I proceed or return. I have written unequal to long letters. to him repeatedly, that he may not plead ignorance of my situation for neglect. I can give you no account of any thing, for I have not time or opportu "Believe me, yours very sincerely, "BYRON. "P. S. No accounts from Hanson! Do not nity, the frigate sailing immediately. Indeed, the complain of short letters,-I write to nobody but farther I go the more my laziness increases, and my yourself and Mr. Hanson." aversion to letter-writing becomes more confirmed. I have written to no one but yourself and Mr. Hanson, and these are communications of business and duty rather than of inclination. LETTER LIV. TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON. "Constantinople, May 18, 1810. "Fletcher is very much disgusted with his fatigues, though he has undergone nothing that I have not shared. He is a poor creature; indeed English| servants are detestable travellers. I have, besides him, two Albanian soldiers and a Greek interpreter; all excellent in their way. Greece, particularly in the vicinity of Athens, is delightful; cloudless skies "DEAR MADAM, and lovely landscapes. But I must reserve all "I arrived here in an English frigate from account of my adventures till we meet. I keep no Smyrna, a few days ago, without any events worth journal, but my friend Hobhouse writes incessantly. mentioning, except landing to view the plains of Pray take care of Murray and Robert, and tell the Troy, and afterwards, when we were at anchor boy it is the most fortunate thing for him that he in the Dardanelles, swimming from Sestos to Abydid not accompany me to Turkey. Consider this dos, in imitation of Monsieur Leander, whose story as merely a notice of my safety, and believe me, you no doubt know too well for me to add any "Yours, &c., &c., thing on that subject, except that I crossed the "BYRON." Hellespont without so good a motive for the undertaking. As I am just going to visit the Capitan Pacha, you will excuse the brevity of my letter. When Mr. Adair takes leave, I am to see the Sultan and the mosques, &c. "Believe me, yours ever, LETTER LII. "To-morrow, or this evening, I sail for Constantinople in the Salsette frigate, of thirty-six guns. She returns to England with our ambassador, whom she is going up on purpose to receive. I have written to you short letters from Athens, Smyrna, LETTER LV. TO MR. HENRY DRURY. "BYRON." "Salsette Frigate, May 3, 1810. and a long one from Albania. I have not yet "MY DEAR DRURY, mustered courage for a second large epistle, and "When I left England, nearly a year ago, you you must not be angry, since I take all opportuni- requested me to write to you-I will do so. I have ties of apprizing you of my safety: but even that crossed Portugal, traversed the south of Spain, visis an effort, writing is so irksome. I have been ited Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, and thence passed into traversing Greece, and Epirus, Illyria, &c., &c., Turkey, where I am still wandering. I first landed and you see by my date, have got into Asia. I in Albania, the ancient Epirus, where we penetrated have made but one excursion lately, to the ruins of as far as Mount Tomarit-excellently treated by the Ephesus. Malta is the rendezvous of my letters, chief, Ali Pacha; and, after journeying through so address to that island. Mr. Hanson has not Illyria, Chaonia, &c., crossed the gulf of Actium, written, though I wished to hear of the Norfolk with a guard of fifty Albanians, and passed the sale, the Lancashire lawsuit, &c., &c. I am Achelous in our route through Acarnania and anxiously expecting fresh remittances. I believe Etolia. We stopped a short time in the Morea, you will like Nottinghamshire, at least, my share crossed the gulf of Lepanto, and landed at the foot of it. Pray accept my good wishes in lieu of a long of Parnassus; saw all that Delphi retains, and so etter, and believe me, on to Thebes and Athens, at which last we remained ten weeks. "Yours sincerely and affectionately, "BYRON." Smyrna; but not before we had topographized At-with great eclat. We have been occasionally in tica, including, of course, Marathon and the Sunian danger of thieves, and once of shipwreck,—but al promontory. From Smyrna to the Troad (which we ways escaped. 66 visited when at anchor, for a fortnight, off the At Malta I fell in love with a married woman, tomb of Antilochus) was our next stage; and now and challenged an aid-de-camp of General ✦ we are in the Dardanelles, waiting for a wind to pro- rude fellow, who grinned at something,-I never ceed to Constantinople. rightly knew what)-but he explained and apolo"This morning I swam from Sestos to Abydos.*gized, and the lady embarked for Cadiz, and so I The immediate distance is not above a mile, but the escaped murder and crim. con. Of Spain I sent current renders it hazardous;-so much so that I some account to our Hodgson, but have subse doubt whether Leander's conjugal affection must quently written to no one, save notes to relations not have been a little chilled in his passage to Para- and lawyers, to keep them out of my premises. I dise. I attempted it a week ago, and failed,-owing mean to give up all connexion, on my return, with to the north wind, and the wonderful rapidity of the many of my best friends-as I supposed them-and tide, though I have been from my childhood a to snarl all my life. But I hope to have one goodstrong swimmer. But, this morning being calmer, humored laugh with you, and to embrace Dwyer, and I succeeded, and crossed the 'broad Hellespont' in pledge Hodgson, before I commence cynicism. an hour and ten minutes. Tell Doctor Butler I am now writing with the "Well, my dear sir, I have left my home, and gold pen he gave me before I left England, which seen part of Africa and Asia, and a tolerable por- is the reason my scrawl is more unintelligible than tion of Europe. I have been with generals and usual. I have been at Athens and seen plenty of admirals, princes and pachas, governors and these reeds for scribbling, some of which he refused ungovernables, but I have not time or paper to to bestow upon me, because topographic Gell had expatiate. I wish to let you know that I live with brought them from Attica. But I will not describe, a friendly remembrance of you, and a hope to meet -no-you must be satisfied with simple detail till you again; and, if I do this as shortly as possible, my return; and then we will unfold the floodgates attribute it to any thing but forgetfulness. of colloquy. I am in a thirty-six gun frigate, going "Greece, ancient and modern, you know too well up to fetch Bob Adair from Constantinople, who to require description. Albania, indeed, I have will have the honor to carry this letter. seen more of than any Englishman, (except a Mr. "And so H.'s boke is out,t with some sentimen Leake,) for it is a country rarely visited, from the tal sing-song of my own to fill up,-and how does savage character of the natives, though abounding it take, eh? and where the devil is the second edi in more natural beauties than the classical regions tion of my Satire, with additions? and my name on of Greece, which, however, are still eminently the title-page? and more lines tagged to the end. beautiful, particularly Delphi and Cape Colonna in with a new exordium and what not, hot from my Attica. Yet these are nothing to parts of Illyria anvil before I cleared the Channel? The Mediter and Epirus, where places without a name, and ranean and the Atlantic roll between me and criti rivers not laid down in maps, may, one day, when cism; and the thunders of the Hyperborean Remore known, be justly esteemed superior subjects, view are deafened by the roar of the Hellespont. for the pencil and the pen, to the dry ditch of the "Rememember me to Claridge, if not translated Ilissus and the bogs of Boeotia. "The Troad is a fine field for conjecture and snipe-shooting, and a good sportsman and an ingenious scholar may exercise their feet and faculties to great advantage upon the spot; or, if they prefer riding, lose their way (as I did) in a cursed quagmire of the Scamander, who wriggles about as if the Dardan virgins still offered their wonted tribute. The only vestige of Troy, or her destroyers, are the barrows supposed to contain the carcasses of Achilles, Antilochus, Ajax, &c.-but Mount Ida is still in high feather, though the shepherds are now-a-days not much like Ganymede. But why should I say more of these things? are they not written in the Boke of Gell? and has not H. got a journal. I keep none, as I have renounced scribbling. to college, and present to Hodgson assurances of my high consideration. Now, you will ask, what shall I do next? and I answer, I do not know. may return in a few months, but I have intents and projects after visiting Constantinople. Hob house, however, will probably be back in September. I "On the 2d of July we have left Albion one year oblitus meorum obliviscendus et illis.' I was sick of my own country, and not much prepossessed in favor of any other; but I drag on my chain' without lengthening it at each remove.'-I am like the Jolly Miller, caring for nobody and not cared for. All countries are much the same in my eyes. smoke, and stare at mountains, and twirl my mus taches very independently. I miss no comforts, and the mosquitoes that wrack the morbid frame of H. have, luckily for me, little effect on mine, because I "I see not much difference between ourselves live more temperately. and the Turks, save that we have, and they "I omitted Ephesus in my catalogue, which I have none that they have long dresses, and we visited during my sojourn at Smyrna; but the Tem short, and that we talk much and they little. ple has almost perished, and St. Paul need not *They are sensible people. Ali trouble himself to epistolize the present brood Pacha told me he was sure I was a man of rank, Ephesians, who have converted a large church built because I had small ears and hands and curling entirely of marble into a mosque, and I don't know hair. By-the-by, I speak the Romaic, or modern that the edifice looks the worse for it. Greek, tolerably. It does not differ from the anMy paper is full, and my ink ebbing-good af cient dialects so much as you would conceive; but ternoon! If you address to me at Malta, the letter the pronunciation is diametrieally opposite. Of will be forwarded wherever I may be. Hobhouse verse, except in rhyme, they have no idea. greets you; he pines for his poetry,-at least some "I like the Greeks, who are plausible rascals,-tidings of it. I almost forgot to tell you that I am with all the Turkish vices, without their courage. dying for love of three Greek girls at Athens, sis However, some are brave, and all are beautiful, very ters. I lived in the same house. Teresa, Mari much resesembling the busts of Alcibiades-the ana, and Katinka, are the names of these divinities, women not quite so handsome. I can swear in Turk- all of them under 15. ish; but, except one horrible oath, and 'pimp,' and 'bread,' and water,' I have got no great vocabulary in that language. They are extremely polite to strangers of any rank, properly protected; and as I have two servants and two soldiers, we get on • See letter cccclxxvii., &c. See Letter xlix. “ Your ταπεινότατος δελος, ↑ Hobhouse's Miscellanies, in which several of Lord Byron's maled pieces were originally published. |