falling abusively foul on the Miss Lindsays, particularly on my Dulcinea; -I hardly refrain from cursing her to her face for daring to mouth her calumnious slander on one of the finest pieces of the workmanship of Almighty Excellence! Sup at Mr. -'s; vexed that the Miss Lindsays are not of the supper-party, as they only are wanting. Mrs. and Miss still improve infernally on my hands. Set out next morning for Wauchope, the seat of my correspondent, Mrs. Scott-breakfast by the way with Dr. Elliot, an agreeable, goodhearted, climate-beaten old veteran, in the medical line; now retired to a romantic, but rather moorish place, on the banks of the Roole -he accompanies us almost to Wauchope-we traverse the country to the top of Bochester, the scene of an old encampment, and Woolee Hill. Wauchope-Mr. Scott exactly the figure and face commonly given to Sancho Panca-very shrewd in his farming matters, and not unfrequently stumbles on what may be called a strong thing rather than a good thing. Mrs. Scott all the sense, taste, intrepidity of face, and bold, critical decision, which usually distinguish female authors.-Sup with Mr. Potts ―agreeable party.-Breakfast next morning with Mr. Somerville-the bruit of Miss Lindsay and my bardship, by means of the invention and malice of Miss Mr. Somerville sends to Dr. Lindsay, begging him and family to breakfast if convenient, but at all events to send Miss Lindsay; accordingly Miss Lindsay only comes.-I find Miss Lindsay would soon play the devil with me-I met with some little flattering attentions from her. Mrs. Somerville an excellent, motherly, agreeable woman, and a fine family.-Mr. Ainslie, and Mrs. S―, junrs., with Mr. Miss Lindsay, and myself, go to see Esther, a very remarkable woman for reciting poetry of all kinds, and sometimes making Scotch doggerel herself-she can repeat by heart almost everything she has ever read, particularly Pope's Homer from end to endhas studied Euclid by herself, and in short, is a woman of very extraordinary abilities.-On conversing with her I find her fully equal to the character given of her.'-She is very much 1 This extraordinary woman then moved in a very humble walk of life-the wife of a common working gardener. She is still living, and, if I am rightly informed, her time is principally occupied in he attentions flattered that I send for her, and that she sees a poet who has put out a book, as she says.She is, among other things, a great florist-and is rather past the meridian of once celebrated beauty. I walk in Esther's garden with Miss Lindsay, and after some little chit-chat of the tender kind, I presented her with a proof print of my Nob, which she accepted with something more tender than gratitude. She told me many little stories which Miss had retailed concerning her and me, with prolonging pleasure-God bless her! Was waited on by the magistrates, and presented with the freedom of the burgh. Took farewell of Jedburgh, with some melancholy, disagreeable sensations. Jed, pure be thy crystal streams, and hallowed thy sylvan banks! Sweet Isabella Lindsay, may peace dwell in thy bosom, uninterrupted, except by the tumultuous throbbings of rapturous love! That love-kindling eye must beam on another, not on me; that graceful form must bless another's arms; not mine! Kelso. Dine with the farmers' club-all gentlemen, talking of high matters-each of them keeps a hunter from thirty to fifty pounds value, and attends the fox-huntings in the country-go out with Mr. Ker, one of the club, and a friend of Mr. Ainslie's, to lie-Mr. Ker a most gentlemanly, clever, handsome fellow, a widower with some fine children-his mind and manner astonishingly like my dear old friend Robert Muir, in Kilmarnock-everything in Mr. Ker's most elegant-he offers to accompany me in my English tour. Dine with Sir Alexander Dona pretty clever fellow, but far from being a match for his divine lady.-A very wet day ***Sleep at Stodrig again; and set out for Melrose-visit Dryburgh, a fine old ruined abbey-still bad weather-cross Leader, and come up Tweed to Melrose-dine there, and visit that far-famed, glorious ruin-come to Selkirk, up Ettrick; the whole country hereabout, both on Tweed and Ettrick, remarkably stony. Monday.-Come to Inverleithing, a famous shaw, and in the vicinity of the palace of Traquair, where having dined, and drank some Galloway-whey, I here remain till to-morrow to a little day-school, which not being sufficient for he subsistence, she is obliged to solicit the charity of her benevolent neighbours. Ah, who would love the lyre!'"-CROMEK. saw Elibanks and Elibraes, on the other side of dinner. Fishing of all kinds pays tithes at the Tweed. Tuesday.-Drank tea yesternight at Pirn, with Mr. Horseburgh.-Breakfasted to-day with Mr. Ballantyne of Hollowlee-Proposal for a fourhorse team to consist of Mr. Scott of Wauchope, Fittieland: Logan of Logan, Fittiefurr: Ballantyne of Hollowlee, Forewynd: Horsburgh of Horsburgh.-Dine at a country inn, kept by a miller, in Earlston, the birth-place and residence of the celebrated Thomas a Rhymer-saw the ruins of his castle-come to Berrywell. Wednesday.-Dine at Dunse with the farmers' club-company-impossible to do them justice Rev. Mr. Smith a famous punster, and Mr. Meikle a celebrated mechanic, and inventor of the threshing-mills.-Thursday, breakfast at Berrywell, and walk into Dunse to see a famous knife made by a cutler there, and to be presented to an Italian prince.-A pleasant ride with my friend Mr. Robert Ainslie, and his sister, to Mr. Thomson's, a man who has newly commenced farmer, and has married a Miss Patty Grieve, formerly a flame of Mr. Robert Ainslie's.-Company-Miss Jacky Grieve, an amiable sister of Mrs. Thomson's, and Mr. Hood, an honest, worthy, facetious farmer, in the neighbourhood. Friday.-Ride to Berwick-An idle town, rudely picturesque.-Meet Lord Errol in walking round the walls. His lordship's flattering notice of me.-Dine with Mr. Clunzie, merchant-nothing particular in company or conversation-Come up a bold shore, and over a wild country to Eyemouth-sup and sleep at Mr. Grieve's. Saturday.-Spend the day at Mr. Grieve'smade a royal arch mason of St. Abb's Lodge.1 -Mr. William Grieve, the oldest brother, a joyous, warm-hearted, jolly, clever fellowtakes a hearty glass, and sings a good song.Mr. Robert, his brother, and partner in trade, a good fellow, but says little. Take a sail after Eyemouth. Sunday.-A Mr. Robinson, brewer at Ednam, sets out with us to Dunbar. The Miss Grieves very good girls.--My bardship's heart got a brush from Miss Betsey. Mr. William Grieve's attachment to the family-circle, so fond, that when he is out, which by the bye is often the case, he cannot go to bed till he see if all his sisters are sleeping well Pass the famous Abbey of Coldingham, and Pease-bridge.-Call at Mr. Sheriff's where Mr. A. and I dine.-Mr. S. talkative and conceited. I talk of love to Nancy the whole evening, while her brother escorts home some companions like himself.-Sir James Hall of Dunglass, having heard of my being in the neighbourhood, comes to Mr. Sheriff's to breakfast-takes me to see his fine scenery on the stream of Dunglass-Dunglass the most romantic, sweet place I ever saw-Sir James and his lady a pleasant happy couple.-He points out a walk for which he has an uncommon respect, as it was made by an aunt of his, to whom he owes much. Miss — will accompany me to Dunbar, by way of making a parade of me as a sweetheart of hers, among her relations. She mounts an old cart-horse, as huge and as lean as a house; a rusty old side-saddle without girth, or stirrup, but fastened on with an old pillion-girthherself as fine as hands could make her, in cream-coloured riding clothes, hat and feather, &c.-I, ashamed of my situation, ride like the devil, and almost shake her to pieces on old Jolly-get rid of her by refusing to call at her uncle's with her. Past through the most glorious corn-country I ever saw, till I reach Dunbar, a neat little town.-Dine with Provost Fall, an eminent merchant, and most respectable character, but undescribable, as he exhibits no marked traits. Mrs. Fall, a genius in painting; fully more clever in the fine arts and sciences than my friend Lady Wauchope, without her consummate 1 The entry made on this occasion in the Lodge-books Edinburgh, by James Carmichael, Wm. Grieve, Daniel of St. Abb's is honourable to "The brethren of the mystic level." "Eyemouth, 19th May, 1787. "Ar a general encampment held this day, the following brethren were made royal arch masons, viz. Robert Burns, from the Lodge of St. James's, Tarbolton, Ayrshire, and Robert Ainslie, from the Lodge of St. Luke's, Dow, John Clay, Robert Grieve, &c. &c. Robert Ainslie paid one guinea admission dues; but on account of R Burns's remarkable poetical genius, the encampment unanimously agreed to admit him gratis, and considered themselves honoured by having a man of such shining abilities for one of their companions." Extracted from the Minute Book of the Lodge by THOMAS BOWHILL assurance of her own abilities.-Call with Mr. Robinson (who, by the bye, I find to be a worthy, much respected man, very modest; warm, social heart, which with less good sense than his would be perhaps with the children of prim precision and pride, rather inimical to that respect which is man's due from man) with him I call on Miss Clarke, a maiden in the Scotch phrase," Guid enough, but no brent new:" a clever woman, with tolerable pretensions to remark and wit; while time had blown the blushing bud of bashful modesty into the flower of easy confidence. She wanted to see what sort of raree show an author was; and to let him know, wrung by the evils of this life of sorrows, or by the villany of this world's sons! Thursday.-Mr. Ker and I set out to dine at Mr. Hood's on our way to England. I am taken extremely ill with strong feverish symptoms, and take a servant of Mr. Hood's to watch me all night-embittering remorse scares my fancy at the gloomy forebodings of death.I am determined to live for the future in such a manner as not to be scared at the approach of death-I am sure I could meet him with indifference, but for "The something beyond the grave."-Mr. Hood agrees to accompany us to that though Dunbar was but a little town, yet England if we will wait till Sunday. it was not destitute of people of parts. Breakfast next morning at Skateraw, at Mr. Lee's, a farmer of great note.-Mr. Lee, an excellent, hospitable, social fellow, rather oldish; warm-hearted and chatty-a most judicious, sensible farmer. Mr. Lee detains me till next morning.-Company at dinner.-My Rev. acquaintance Dr. Bowmaker, a reverend, rattling old fellow. Two sea lieutenants; a cousin of the landlord's, a fellow whose looks are of that kind which deceived me in a gentleman at Kelso, and has often deceived me: a goodly handsome figure and face, which incline one to give them credit for parts which they have not. Mr. Clarke, a much cleverer fellow, but whose looks a little cloudy, and his appearance rather ungainly, with an every-day observer may prejudice the opinion against him.-Dr. Brown, a medical young gentleman from Dunbar, a fellow whose face and manners are open and engaging. --Leave Skateraw for Dunse next day, along with collector a lad of slender abilities and bashfully diffident to an extreme. Found Miss Ainslie, the amiable, the sensible, the good-humoured, the sweet Miss Ainslie, all alone at Berry well.-Heavenly powers, who know the weakness of human hearts, support mine! What happiness must I see only to remind me that I cannot enjoy it! Lammer-muir Hills, from East Lothian to Dunse, very wild.-Dine with the farmer's club at Kelso. Sir John Hume and Mr. Lumsden there, but nothing worth remembrance when the following circumstance is considered-I walk into Dunse before dinner, and out to Berrywell in the evening with Miss Ainsliehow well-bred, how frank, how good she is! Charming Rachael! may thy bosom never be Friday.-I go with Mr. Hood to see a roup of an unfortunate farmer's stock-rigid economy, and decent industry, do you preserve me from being the principal dramatis persona in such a scene of horror. Meet my good old friend Mr. Ainslie, who calls on Mr. Hood in the evening to take farewell of my bardship. This day I feel myself warm with sentiments of gratitude to the Great Preserver of men, who has kindly restored me to health and strength once more. A pleasant walk with my young friend Douglas Ainslie, a sweet, modest, clever young fellow. Sunday, 27th May.-Cross Tweed, and traverse the moors through a wild country till I reach Alnwick-Alnwick Castle a seat of the Duke of Northumberland, furnished in a most princely shows us the house and policies. Mr. Wilkin, manner.—A Mr. Wilkin, agent of His Grace's, a discreet, sensible, ingenious man. Monday.-Come, still through by-ways, to Warkworth, where we dine.-Hermitage and old castle. Warkworth situated very picturesque, with Coquet Island, a small rocky spot, the seat of an old monastery, facing it a little in the sea; and the small but romantic river Coquet, running through it.-Sleep at Morpeth, a pleasant enough little town, and on next day to Newcastle.-Meet with a very agreeable, sensible fellow, a Mr. Chattox, who shows us a great many civilities, and who dines and sups with us. Wednesday.-Left Newcastle early in the morning, and rode over a fine country to Hexham to breakfast-from Hexham to Wardrue, the celebrated Spa, where we slept.-Thursday-reach Longtown to dine, and part there with my good friends Messrs. Hood and Ker-A hiring day in Longtown-I am uncommonly happy to see so many young folks enjoying life.-I come to Carlisle.-(Meet a strange enough romantic adventure by the way, in falling in with a girl and her married sister-the girl, after some overtures of gallantry on my side, sees me a little cut with the bottle, and offers to take me in for a Gretna-Green affair.-I, not being such a gull, as she imagines, make an appointment with her, by way of vive la bagatelle, to hold a conference on it when we reach town.-I meet her in town and give her a brush of caressing, and a bottle of cider; but finding herself un peu trompé in her man she sheers off.) Next day I meet my good friend, Mr. Mitchell, and walk with him round the town and its environs, and through his printing-works, &c.-four or five hundred people employed, many of them women and children. -Dine with Mr. Mitchell, and leave Carlisle.-Come by the coast to Annan. Overtaken on the way by a curious old fish of a shoemaker, and miner, from Cumberland mines. [Here the manuscript abruptly terminates.] THE HIGHLAND TOUR. 25th August, 1787. of repentance standing, in the old Romish way, on a lofty situation. What a poor pimping business is a Presbyterian place of worship; dirty, narrow, and squalid; stuck in a corner of old popish gran-. deur such as Linlithgow, and much more, Melrose! Ceremony and show, if judiciously thrown in, absolutely necessary for the bulk of mankind, both in religious and civil matters.-Dine, -Go to my friend Smith's at Avon printfieldfind nobody but Mrs. Miller, an agreeable, sensible, modest, good body; as useful, but not so ornamental as Fielding's Miss Western-not rigidly polite à la Français, but easy, hospitable, and housewifely. I LEAVE Edinburgh for a northern tour, in company with my good friend Mr. Nicol, whose originality of humour promises me much entertainment. Linlithgow - a fertile improved country-West Lothian. The more elegance and luxury among the farmers, I always observe in equal proportion, the rudeness and stupidity of the peasantry. This remark I have made all over the Lothians, Merse, Roxburgh, &c. For this, among other reasons, I think that a man of romantic taste, a "Man of Feeling," will be better pleased with the poverty, but intelligent minds of the peasantry in Ayrshire (peasantry they are all below the justice of peace) than the opulence of a club of Merse farmers, when at the same time, he considers the vandalism of their plough-folks, &c. I carry this idea so far, that an unenclosed, half improven country is to me actually more agreeable, and gives me more pleasure as a prospect, than a country cultivated like a garden.-Soil about Linlithgow light and thin.-The town carries the appearance of rude, decayed grandeur-charming- Pleasant view of Dunfermline and the rest of ly rural, retired situation. The old royal palace the fertile coast of Fife, as we go down to that a tolerably fine, but melancholy ruin-sweetly dirty, ugly place, Borrowstones-see a horsesituated on a small elevation, by the brink of a race and call on a friend of Mr. Nicol's, a Bailie loch. Shown the room where the beautiful, Cowan, of whom I know too little to attempt injured Mary Queen of Scots was born-a pretty his portrait-Come through the rich carse of good old Gothic church. The infamous stool | Falkirk to pass the night. Falkirk nothing An old lady from Paisley, a Mrs. Lawson, whom I promised to call for in Paisley-like old lady W- and still more like Mrs. C her conversation is pregnant with strong sense and just remark, but like them, a certain air of self-importance and a duresse in the eye, seem to indicate, as the Ayrshire wife observed of her cow, that "she had a mind o' her ain.” remarkable except the tomb of Sir John the Graham, over which, in the succession of time, four stones have been placed.-Camelon, the ancient metropolis of the Picts, now a small village in the neighbourhood of Falkirk.-Cross the grand canal to Carron.-Come past Larbert and admire a fine monument of cast-iron erected by Mr. Bruce, the African traveller, to his wife. Pass Dunipace, a place laid out with fine taste-a charming amphitheatre bounded by Denny village, and pleasant seats down the way to Dunnipace.-The Carron running down the bosom of the whole makes it one of the most charming little prospects I have seen. Dine at Auchinbowie-Mr. Monro an excellent, worthy old man-Miss Monro an amiable, sensible, sweet young woman, much resembling and Tieth-Allan River-Strathallan, a fine country, but little improved-Cross Earn to Crieff-Dine and go to Arbruchil-cold reception at Arbruchil-a most romantically pleasant ride up Earn, by Auchtertyre and Comrie to Arbruchil-Sup at Crieff. Wednesday Morning. - Leave Crieff Glen Amond-Amond river-Ossian's grave-Loch Fruoch-Glenquaich-Landlord and landlady remarkable characters-Taymouth described in rhyme-Meet the Hon. Charles Townshend. Thursday.—Come down Tay to DunkeldGlenlyon House-Lyon River-Druid's Temple --three circles of stones-the outer-most sunk -the second has thirteen stones remaining— the innermost has eight-two large detached ones like a gate, to the south-east-Say prayers in it-Pass Taybridge-Aberfeldy-described in rhyme-Castle Menzies-Inver-Dr. Stewart -sup. Mrs. Grierson. Come to Bannockburn-Shown the old house where James III. finished so tragically his unfortunate life. The field of Bannockburn-the hole where glorious Bruce set his standard. Here no Scot can pass unin- Friday-Walk with Mrs. Stewart and Beard terested. I fancy to myself that I see my to Birnam top-fine prospect down Taygallant, heroic countrymen coming o'er the hill Craigieburn hills-Hermitage on the Branwater, and down upon the plunderers of their coun- with a picture of Ossian-Breakfast with Dr. try, the murderers of their fathers; noble reStewart-Neil Gow1 plays-a short, stout-built, venge, and just hate, glowing in every vein, honest Highland figure, with his grayish hair striding more and more eagerly as they approach shed on his honest social brow-an interesting the oppressive, insulting, blood-thirsty foe! I face, marking strong sense, kind openheartedsee them meet in gloriously triumphant congra-ness, mixed with unmistrusting simplicity-visit tulation on the victorious field, exulting in their his house-Marget Gow. heroic royal leader, and rescued liberty and independence! Come to Stirling.—Monday go to Harvieston. Go to see Caudron linn, and Return in the Rumbling brig, and Diel's mill. evening. Supper-Messrs. Doig, the schoolmaster; Bell; and Captain Forrester of the castle-Doig a queerish figure, and something of a pedant-Bell a joyous fellow, who sings a good song.-Forrester a merry, swearing kind of man, with a dash of the sodger. Tuesday Morning. Breakfast with Captain Forrester-Ochel Hills-Devon River - Forth 1 Another northern bard has sketched this eminent musician "The blythe Strathspey springs up, reminding some Ride up Tummel River to Blair-Fascally a beautiful romantic nest-wild grandeur of the pass of Gilliecrankie-visit the gallant Lord Dundee's stone. Blair-Sup with the Duchess-easy and happy from the manners of the family-confirmed in my good opinion of my friend Walker. Saturday.-Visit the scenes round Blair— fine, but spoiled with bad taste-Tilt and Gairie rivers-Falls on the Tilt-Heather seat-Ride in company with Sir William Murray and Mr. Walker, to Loch Tummel-meanderings of the Mellifluous, strong, exuberantly rich! |