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I understood they were inclined to be finer features of landscape, which make equally generous in France. Two of the true province of painting ; with thern, with whom I conversed, said some points of gigantic height and carelessly, 'The Spaniards like it, savage solitude, with glaciers and avaa and we give it to them. In France, lanches, its general height is that which they do not care for it, and we keep it allows the harmonies of forest colourto ourselves. In general, I did not ing, of luxuriant valleys, and of sparkfind them very fanatical. They have a ling and gentle streams. The Alps are kind of indolence, which excludes vio- too wild and lofty for this; the Apen, lent sentiments. They are very little nines are perhaps too low, too naked affected by the diminution of the of forest, and too steril. Our artists King's power ; but the happy theo- have now exhausted the prominent cratic influence which they enjoyed, subjects of the pencil at home; a dia has been disturbed. Several of their ligence and a week will place them convents have been visited ; the ma, in the midst of a new world of characjority have suffered for the crimes of teristica nd glorious scenery; and I a few, and they have fled ; in no great should not be surprised to see Mount hurry, however, and contented with Canigou, and the Cerdagne, monks, the quiet and easy pace of their mules. mules, fortresses and all, transformed The profession of a monk is very ge
to English walls. neral in Spain, because it is easy, plea- “ One of the finest sights that I sant, and favours all kind of idleness. met with in the Pyrenees, was that If a man has committed any irregula- which struck me when I first left Pera rities, or if he be still more lazy than pignan to penetrate into the mounhis lazy countrymen, he is received tains. It was about six in the morninto a monastery, and displays his ing. The cold was severe; a violent tranquil sanctity in the eyes of the and icy wind blew from the mountains people. A portion of the land is allot- of Capsir, which were covered with ted for their support ; and voluntary snow; and a young man of Rousillon, donations add considerably to their with a short jacket, a hanging cap, established income. This lazy mode of and a short and lively face, drove at a life gives most of them a happy en bon gallop four horses, which carried us point ; a lively red to their cheeks, round Mount Canigou. The plain had effaces the fine lines of the Moorish not yet received a ray of the sun, countenance; renders those happy bo- when suddenly the top of Canigou was dies difficult to be moved ; and in lit with a rose-coloured tint, which, their untroubled reign, takes from blending with the white of the snow, them even the hatred of heresy, the produced a shade inexpressibly soft. very name of which is unknown to The luminous band increasing as the the greater part of them. In others, sun rose higher, the upper peak seemthe cloister appears to have made the ed to enlarge in proportion as it was complexion sallow, hollowed and in- illuminated. The whole mountain was flamed the eyes, depressed the cheeks, speedily covered with light and purand thus produced the ideal of fana- ple. Then all its forms, hitherto conticism. I have never seen anything cealed by the darkness, became inarke finer than some of these heads project- ed at once; all its projections rose, all ing from the large robes of the capu- its hollows seemed to be deeper. The chins, with an ample forehead, a long cold, the wind, and our rapid motion, straight nose, large black fixed eyes, a added to the effect of this fine scene. little, strong, and thick beard. Among “After having proceeded a long time them are those men, who, by turns, round the foot of Canigou, the mounmonks and guerillas, have quitted the tains of Caspir, which are at first in mountains since the return of Ferdi- front, appear at the side. We then ennand, and now go back to them, to ter the defiles, and the plain disappears, satisfy an ardent temperament, which, not to appear again till a hundred under other institutions, would have leagues off, that is to say, at Bayonne. shewn itself in great actions and noble Advancing to the defiles which lead to enterprizes."
Cerdagne, we find a people who are This Frenchman describes with some entirely Spanish. The women, whose feeling of picturesque beauty, and his faces are round and animated, wear a sketches of scenery have a clearness handkerchief, which, spreading like a rare among his countrymen. The veil at the back of the head, is fastenrange of the Pyrenees is full of those ed, by two corners, under the chin,
and hangs in a point over the shoulders. A bow of black ribbon, taste- The traveller then penetrates into fully fastened at the root of the hair, the defiles, and finds, as he advances, ornaments the forehead ; the waist is the increasing evidences of the confus strongly compressed by a corset, laced sion and misery brought upon the poin front; and they shew peculiar grace pulation by the giddy and unnational in their Sunday dances.
attempt of the Cortes. · M. Thiers now comes rapidly into “ I resumed my way among the the centre of operations.
mountains. The roads were covered « Prades is the first place at all con- with the poor stragglers who had residerable that we meet after Perpig- mained behind. To these were added, nan, and it is the last. Carriages can- officers, monks, curés, students with the not pass beyond it; the way of travel- large Arragonese hat, and the gown ling is on horseback. At the moment tucked up. of my arrival, news had been received of the late defeats of the Regency, and “ In the midst of this melancholy of the flight of the insurgents into the scene, I was much struck with a young French territory. I heard the moun- man, dressed in rather a handsome taineers speaking of it with warmth, uniform, and well mounted, who, and with the fullest disposition to find though unarmed, was distinguished by something marvellous in it. Every one a loftiness and grace entirely African, told his own story, but all spoke with put his horse on all his paces, and wonder of the cavalry of Mina, which, seemed to amuse himself with the road they said, ran upon the points of the and the fugitives.” rocks. Without, however, being so mi- Our extracts must close, though the raculous, it is certain that this cavalry pamphlet contains many interesting traverses the mountains with surpri- details. But the flight of the Regency sing rapidity and ease. They also an is too curious an event in the chapter nounced the approach of several ge, of revolutionary accidents, not to be nerals, the Regency itself, and, above worth transferring. The traveller has all, El Rey Mata Florida, as the pea- set out early to pass the defiles leadsants here called him.”
ing to the valley of the Cerdagne. In those days,
os Rebellion was “ I left Olette in the morning, after good-luck ;" and the Cortes were having, with great difficulty, procured “ viceroys over the King.” The scale a mule and a guide. The sky was dark has turned since, and the kingly Cor- and stormy; an impetuous wind blew tes are now playing the fugitive, in through the defiles. I took the road to place of El Rey Matu Florida. The Mount Louis. There the mountains tourist is at last indulged with a view draw closer together, and rise. The of an emigrant rebellion.
road is cut out on one side of the rocks, “ I was anxious to get to the place at one third of their height, and alwhere those celebrated insurgents were lows room for one mule at most. to be seen. After travelling very ra- Above, are inaccessible eminences pidly, towards night-fall, I met with below, are torrents—and beyond, are the first encampment, in a small field, other mountains. The scene is most at the foot of the mountains, and in diversified. Sometimes you rise, and the midst of the snow. I never saw a seem to command the abyss; at others, more melancholy and original sight. you descend, and seem to have it over It was distinguished, at a distance, by your head. Sometimes, following the the floating pennons of our lancers, sinuosities of the defile, you come inwho were placed as sentinels at the to an obscure enclosure, apparently four corners of the itinerant village. without an outlet; then, suddenly Twelve or fifteen hundred poor crea- doubling a point, you discover an untures, men, women, children, and old expected and immense prospect; vast people, were stretched upon the ground, amphitheatres of dazzling snow, black with their baggage spread out; some pines, and a succession of mountains, were lying on a little straw; others which crowd together, and locke into added their clothes, and endeavoured each other. The confusion of cubic to make beds of them. Some mules and broken masses of limestone; blocks were fastened outside the circle, with of granite; the schistus, detached in their heads covered with ornaments, slabs, or broken into little flakes, addand their eyes with plates of copper, ed to the roaring of the torrents, the according to the Spanish fashion.' disorder of the winds, and the pressed
and rent clouds, afford a perfect pic- found in all the expulsions of Europe. ture of chaos. Never did the confu- Its decrepitude, contrasted with the şion of the elements appear to me more speedy triumph of its principles, and dreadful, even in the midst of a storm the pomp of its military return, form at sea.
a singular contrast, and seem made to “ On this day, and during this forbid politicians from prophecy. dreadful storm, I met with still more “ At last I met the long-expected fugitives than on the day before. Not Regency. We were climbing a flight a Monk, not a woman, had ventured of steps, which, extending along the to set out. Those who had no families side of a hill, turned towards its sumwith them, were conducted in bands mit. On a sudden, I saw a horseman by some of our soldiers. The poor at the summit of the path, who turnwretches wrapped themselves up as ed the point, and advanced towards well as they could; fortunately for us with a truly martial air. He was them, they had the wind in their backs, an old dragoon, enveloped in an imand, impelled by it, they ran along the mense cloak, and resembling the warnarrowest paths with extreme agility.” riors in Wouverman's battle-pieces.
He now meets the curious phe- After him came a foot-soldier, leading nomenon of a Government running two good horses by the bridle. We away, and seems to have been rather were in our turn doubling the point, exhilarated with the sight, notwith- and descending by the opposite flight standing some natural touches of feel- of steps, when I perceived a group ing for those luckless fellow-sharers who appeared to ascend it with diffiof the desert and the storm.
culty, on foot. A man between fifty “My guide, when we set out, told and sixty years of age, of middle stame that we should meet El Rey Mata ture, pale, thin, and stooping, with Florida. In fact, the pages of the Re- his eyes red, wearing a black cap and geney soon announced his approach. a brown great-coat, was leaning upon I must make my reader acquainted two other persons, and dragging himwith those pages, who have been spo- self along with the greatest difficulty. ken of with so much complacency, as My guide, at this sight, called out to well as the portmanteaus containing me, 'El Hey, El Rey Mata Florida! the archives of the Regency. I saw horsemen pass me in groups of three “ His suite were not less character. or four together, upon horses which istic--three or four mean-looking and were lean, indeed, and ill-shaped, but ill-dressed individuals walked by his excellent, for they galloped over the side ; those were the great officers of snow, and along the paths, with a se- the Regency. One of them, who was curity, I might almost say an infalli- pretty far advanced in years, very tall, bility, which was truly surprising.- wearing an enormously large French Their equipment was worthy of the bat, covered with oil-skin, and carry, place, of the men, and of the army to ing a bundle under his arm, kept a which they belonged. Some had old little on one side-he was a minister, caps, very much worn; others rusty I know not of what department. Behelmets, or little round hats, with hind him was a tall Capuchin, in a short plumes of various colours. They long robe, who seemed to represent had uniforms, or Catalonian jackets, the altar near the throne. Lastly, a sometimes pantaloons and shoes, but few steps behind them, came a young for the most part, gaiters and spartil- man in a green cloak, with several lns, and no spurs. Some had no sad- capes, dressed completely in the French dles, nor any other harness than a hal-' fashion, rather stout, and of a very reter. We met from sixty to eighty markable appearance. I was told that horsemen, of whom there were pere he was the son of the Marquis Mata baps twelve or fifteen well equipped, Florida. The wind blowing violently at and wrapped in good blue cloaks, es- the moment, both parties stopped, and corting officers," &c. &c.
I had sufficient time to examine this The aspect under which this unfor- fugitive court. They watered their tunate Regency appeared at last, was horses at a little stream which issued certainly not calculated toraise very su- from the side of the mountain, and perior ideas of its former influence. A which flowed under a thick covering more shattered and lonely remnant of of ice that had been broken. After this, government, could not have been easily we continued our respective routes."
Lectures on the Fine Arts.
ON GEORGE CRUIKSHANK.
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, It is sort of things he has done, to have a high time that the public should think capital notion of the principles of more than they have hitherto done grouping. Now, these things are vaof George Cruikshank; and it is also luable in themselves; but they are high time that George Cruikshank doubly, trebly valuable, as possessed should begin to think more than he by a person of real comic humour, and seems to have done hitherto of him- a total despiser of That VENERABLE' self. Generally speaking, people con- HUMBUG, which almost all the artists sider him as a clever, sharp carica- of our day seem, in one shape or other, turist, and nothing more--a free- to revere as the prime god of their idolhanded, comical young fellow,who will atry. do anything he is paid for, and who Nobody, that has the least of an eye is quite contented to dine off the pro- for art, can doubt that Cruikshank, if ceeds of George IV.” to-day, and he chose, might design as many Annunthose of a “ Hone” or a
Cobbett" ciations, Beatifications, Apotheoses, to-morrow. He himself, indeed, ap- Metamorphoses, and so forth, as would pears to be the most careless creature cover York Cathedral from end to end. alive, as touching his reputation. Ile It is still more impossible to doubt that seems to have no plan-almost no am- he might be a famous portrait painter. bition-and, I apprehend, not much Now, these are fine lines both of them industry. He does just what is sug- -and yet it is precisely the chief merit gested or thrown in his way-pockets of Cruikshank, that he cuts them the cash-orders his beef-steak and both—that he will have nothing to do bowl-and chaunts, like one of his with them—that he has chosen a walk own heroes,
of his own-and that he has made his “ Life is all a variorum,
own walk popular. Here lies genius ; We regard not how it
but let him do himself justice- let him Now, for a year or two, to begin persevere and rise in his own pathwith, this is just as it should be. and then, Ladies and Gentlemen, then Cruikshank was resolved to see Life the day will come when his name -and his sketches shew that he has will be a name indeed not a name seen it, in some of its walks, to pur- puffed and paraded in the newspapers pose. But life is short, and art is long; -but a living, a substantial, perhaps and our gay friend must pull up. even an illustrious, English name. Let
Perhaps he is not aware of the fact him, in one word, proceed—and, as himself—but a fact it undoubtedly is he proceeds, let him think of Ho-that he possesses genius-GENIUS in its truest sense-strong, original, Eng- The English artists seem in general lish genius. Look round the world of to be very pleasant, lively, good-heartArt, and ask, how many are there of ed fellows. I know a great many of whom anything like this can be said ? them, and I love them—but I canWhy, there are not half a dozen names not compliment them much upon the that could bear being mentioned at all; extent and depth of their views as to and certainly there is not one, the pre- Art. How rare a thing is the least aptensions of which will endure sifting, proach to originality! How rare a more securely and more triumphantly thing is the least approach to what than that of George Cruikshank. deserves the name of success! Will
In the first place, he is-what no you forgive me for venturing upon a living caricaturist but himself has the few hints-certainly well-meant-and least pretensions to be—and what, in- as certainly not hasty ones? deed, scarcely one of their predecessors The dignity of Art-the importance was--he is a thorough-bred artist. He of Art the grandeur of Art-these draws with the ease, and freedom, and . are phrases that are never out of their fearlessness of a master; he understands mouths; and yet how few of them the figure completely; and appears, so seem to take any pains upon themselves far as one can guess from the trifling such as might become people devoted
to what is important, dignified, and by pen, pencil, or chisel; but now grand ? None, or almost none of them, this will not answer. First of all, appear to have considered in what sort these things have been so, and by such of state the world is at present as re- hands, expressed :- and nobody cares garding them and their art. The for having them over again. But, world is, in the first place, in posses- secondly, and still more, we wish to sion of a vast body of masterpieces in have the finer traits. Intelligence is every department; and, secondly, the now diffused and general—so much so, world is full of light and information; indeed, as to make an essential part of and, whatever it might have done three that Nature which all Art must imi. bundred years ago, more or less, it will tate. It follows, that people who can not now tolerate, at least it will not only meddle with the rough work, now applaud, any artist whose works that is to say, [for a stray Hogg, &c. do not announce a mind rich in gene- here and there are merely exceptions,] ral accomplishment and acquirement all rough-hewn and illiterate people, a mind that has been fed with the had better not meddle either with contemplation of human thoughts and poetry, or painting, or sculpture, Q.E.D. feelings, as well as human forms-a Now what are the painters in gehighly educated and cultivated mind. neral ? Capital fellows, no doubt, in
An ignorant man, my friends, can- their way a little addicted to turnDot succeed in our time either in Arting up their noses at each otheror in Authorship: Exceptions there amicably open in their vanities-but, may be—but no long-headed man goes upon the whole, pleasant people upon the strength of exceptions ; and, most assuredly so. But what do they after all, how very, very rare are the know of the world, past, present, or exceptions !
to come? They have never read anyWho, Ladies and Gentlemen, is the thing worth speaking of-that, ingreatest painter now living ?-Nobody deed, they scarcely ever pretend to can hesitate about the answer-Wil have done-So much for the past. KIE. And what is Wilkie? Is he not a They live among themselves-they man, who, if he were a lawyer, a physi- marry [most commonly as the modern cian, or a divine, would be pronounced Pygmalion would fain have married] -by any one that had spent an evening or they are bachelors--men of the third in his company— singularly well-in- floor and the mutton chop-cheerful formed man? He is so-and no won- over ale or gin-twist “of an evening,". der; for he is not a mere painter-he --smokers of shag, frequenters of the received the same general education pit, emergers into sunshine on “cleanwhich would have been bestowed upon shirt day"-dry, yellow, absurd men, him, had be chosen to wear a gown and with fantastic curls or picturesque cassock, or a three-tailed periwig-the baldness-the solemn smile of a reeducation of a British gentleman. He cluse-the ease of an actor off the has all along lived in the society of stage-a shuffling lounging gait--and men of the world--and he is a man of too often green spectacles. So much the world. He, therefore, being pos.. for the present. As for the future sessed of this mechanical art, makes world, I strongly suspect it is far from use of it exactly as he would have occupying anything like a due promade use of the art of writing, or the portion of their attention. They selart of speaking, had his turn hap- dom go to church at all, the more is pened to lie another way. He knows the shame to them; and, when they what the world has been, and what do so, it really is not much better, for, the world is—and he expresses by his instead of attending to the divine art that understanding of, and sym- truths which the eloquent preacher is pathy with, the spirit of the age in uttering, they are generally studying which helives--without which a paint- some effect about the chandeliers or er is, in point of fact, just as manc, the window.curtains, or scratching incomplete, and ineffectual a being, as down the heads of the church-wara poet or an orator.
den and his lady on the fly-leaf of the Alas! my dear hearers, the world little red Prayer-book. is a very old world now. In former My drift in short is, that all painters days, people came very fair speed, of talent ought to be diligent students by merely seizing on the rough of other things besides their own para traits of things, and expressing them ticular art. And my argument, at