at their breasts, carry them on their shoulders, in order to have their arms at liberty; and when the infant is hungry, they give them the breast, either under the arm or over the shoulder, without taking them from their backs. This will, perhaps, appear incredible, but their breasts being left to grow, without any pressure on them, often hang down to their very waists.

In the house, the whole exercise of the ladies consists in sitting in their hammocks, and swinging themselves for air. This is so general a custom, that there is not a house without two or three, according to the number of the family. In these they pass the greater part of the day; and often men, as well as women, sleep in them, without minding the inconveniency of not stretching the body at full length.

Both sexes are observed to be possessed of a great share of wit and penetration, and also of a genius proper to excel in all kinds of mechanic arts. This is particularly conspicuous in those who apply themselves to literature, and who,' at a tender åge, shew a judgment and perspicacity, which, in other climates, is attained only by a long series of years, and the the greatest application. This happy disposition continues till they are between 20 and 30 years of age, after which they generally decline as fast as they rose; and frequently, before they arrive at that age, when they should begin to reap the advantage of their studies, a natural indolence checks their farther progress, and they forsake the sciences, leaving the surprising effects of their capacity imperfect.

The principal cause of the short duration of such promising beginnings, and of the indolent turn so often seen in these bright genuises is, doubtless, the want of proper objects for exercising their faculties, and the small hopes of being preferred to any post answerable to the pains they have taken: for, as there is in this country neither army nor navy, and the civil employments very few, it is not at all surprising, that the despair of making their fortunes by this method, should damp their ardour for excelling in the sciences, and plunge them into idleness, the sure forerunner of vice. The same is VOL. I.

X

evident in the mechanic arts, wherein they easily excel and speedily decline, from the causes already mentioned.

One of the most favourite amusements of the natives here, is a ball, or fandango, after the manner of the country. And these are the distinguished rejoicings on festivals and remarkable days. These diversions, in houses of distinction, are conducted in a very regular manner; they open with the Spanish dances, and are succeeded by those of the country, which are not without spirit and gracefulness.

The fandangos, or balls of the populace, consist principally in drinking brandy and wine, intermixed with indecent and scandalous motions and gestures; and these continual rounds of drinking soon give rise to quarrels, which often bring on misfortunes. When any strangers of rank visit the city, they are generally at the expence of these balls, and as the entrance is free to all, and no want of liquor, they need give themselves no concern about the want of company.

Their burials and mournings are also something singular, as in this particular they endeavour to display their grandeur and dignity, too often at the expense of their tranquillity. If the deceased be a person of condition, his body is placed on a pompous catafalco, erected on the principal apartment of the house, amidst a blaze of tapers. In this manner the corpse lies 24 hours, or longer, for the acquaintance of the family to visit it at all hours; and likewise, the lower class of women, among whom it is a custom to come and lament the deceased. The funeral, also, is accompanied with the like noisy lamentations; and even after the corpse is deposited in the grave, the mourning is continued in the house for nine days.

The French mathematicians arrived at Carthagena on the 16th of November, 1735, where they were joined by the Spanish artists; and on the 24th, they all embarked on board a French frigate for Porto Bello. The passage was very short and pleasant; so that on the 29th of the same month, they came to an anchor in Porto Bello harbour. The town of St. Philip de Porto Bello, according to their observations, stands in 9 deg. 34 min. 35 sec. north latitude. This harbour was discovered on the 2d of November, 1502, by Christopher

Columbus, who was so charmed with its extent, depth, and security, that he gave it the name of Porto Bello, or the Fine Harbour.

The town stands near the sea, on the declivity of a mountain surrounding the whole harbour. Many of the houses are built with wood, but in some the first story is of stone, and the remainder of wood: they are about 130 in number, and most of them large and spacious. It is under the jurisdiction of a governor, with the title of lieutenant-general, under the president of Panama. At the east end of the town is a quarter called Guinea; because there all the negroes, whether slaves or free, have their habitations. This quarter is much crowded, when the galleons are in the harbour, most of the inhabitants of the town entirely quitting their houses at that season, for the advantage of letting them.

In a large track between the town and Gloria Castle, barracks are erected, and principally filled with the ship crews, who keep stalls of sweetmeats, and other kinds of eatables, brought from Spain. But after the conclusion of the fair, when the ships are sailed, all those buildings are taken down, and the town returns to its former tranquillity and emptiness.

The harbour of Porto Bello is extremely commodious for all sorts of ships or vessels; and, though its entrance is very wide, it is well defended by fort St. Philip de todo Fierro. It stands on the north point of the entrance, which is about 600 fathoms broad; but the south side being full of ridges of rocks, extending to some distance from the shore, a ship is obliged to stand to the north, through the deepest part of the channel, which lies in the middle of the entrance, and thus continues in a straight direction.

Among the mountains, which surround the whole harbour of Porto Bello, beginning from St. Philip de todo Fierro, or the Iron Castle, and without any decrease of height, extending to the opposite point, one is particularly remarkable by its superior altitude, as if designed for the barometer of the country, by foretelling every change of weather. This mountain distinguished by the name of Capiro, stands at the utmost extremity of the harbour, in the road to Panama.

Its top is always covered with clouds of a density and darkness seldom seen in this atmosphere; and from these, which are called the capillo, or cap, has possibly been corruptly formed the name of Monte Capiro. When these clouds thicken, increase their blackness, and sink below their usual station, it is a sure sign of a tempest: while, on the other hand, their clearness and ascent as certainly indicate the ap proach of fair weather. It must, however, be remembered, that these changes are very frequent, and almost instantaneous. The inclemency of the climate of Porto Bello is sufficiently known all over Europe. Not only strangers who come thither are affected by it, but even the natives themselves suffer in various manners. It destroys the vigour of nature, and often untimely cuts the thread of life. The heat is excessive, being augmented by the situation of the town, which is surrounded with high mountains, without any interval for the winds whereby it might be refreshed. The trees on these mountains stand so thick as to intercept the rays of the sun; and consequently hinder them from drying the earth under them; hence copious exhalations from large clouds, which precipitate themselves in violent torrents of rain. But these are no sooner over, than the sun breaks forth afresh, and shines with his former splendour; though scarcely has the activity of his ray dried the surface of the ground, till the atmosphere is again clouded by another collection of thick vapours, and the sun again concealed: the night is also subject to the same vicissi❤ tudes. These torrents of rain are accompanied with such tempests of thunder and lightning, as must daunt the most resolute.

This continual inclemency, added to the fatigue of the seamen in unloading the ships, renders them weak and faints and they, in order to recruit their spirits, have recourse to brandy, of which there is, on these occasions, an incredible consumption. The excessive labour, immoderate drink, and the inclemency and unhealthiness of the climate must jointly destroy the best constitutions, and produce those deleterious diseases so common in this country. But it is not the seamen alone who are subject to these diseases; others, who are

strangers to the seas, and not concerned in the fatigues, are also attacked by them; and, consequently, is a sufficient demonstration, that the other two are only collateral, though they tend both to spread and inflame the distemper. On some occasions, physicians have been sent for from Carthagena, as being supposed to be better acquainted with the properest methods of curing the distempers of this country, and, consequently, more able to recover the seamen: but experience has shewn, that this intention has been so little answered, that the galleons, or other European ships, which stay any time here, seldom leave it without burying half, or at least onethird, of their men; and hence this city has, with too much reason, been termed the grave of the Spaniards; but it may, with much greater propriety, be applied to those of other nations who visit it.

The number of the inhabitants of Porto Bello, by reason of its smallness, and the inclemency of its climate, is very inconsiderable, and the greatest part of these are negroes and mulattoes, there being scarce 30 white families; for all who, by commerce or their estates, are in easy circumstances, remove to Panama, so that those only stay at Porto Bello, whose employments oblige them to it.

Provisions are scarce at Porto Bello, and consequently dear, particularly during the time of the galleons and the fair, when there is a necessity for a supply from Carthagena and Panama. The only thing in plenty here is fish, of which there is a great variety, and very good. Is also abounds in sugarcanes, so that the chacaras, or farm houses, if, indeed, they deserve that name, are built of them.

Fresh water pours down in streams from the mountains, some running without the town, and others crossing it. These waters are very light and digestive, and, in those who are used to them, good to create an appetite; qualities, which, in other countries, would be very valuable, but are here pernicious. This country seems so cursed by nature, that what is in itself good, becomes here destructive. For, doubtless, this water is too active and fine for the stomachs of the inhabitants;