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TEMPLES AT DENDERAH.

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on a large scale, that are met with in ascending the Nile, make an impression upon the traveller that has given them an undeserved celebrity as compared with those that he afterwards meets with.

There are the remains of two temples yet visible, both, I am inclined to say, of a modern date. One is but small, faces the south, and must have opened into one of the outer courts of the Great Temple, which stands at right angles to it, facing the east. It appears to have been dedicated to the evil spirit, Typhon, whose hideous form is carved above the capitals of the columns in the portico. On the interior walls, Isis is represented suckling Horus, and attended by Typhon and his cara sposa. The figures are all in relief.

The propyla of the Great Temple are nearly destroyed, but its magnificent pronaos of twenty-four Isis-headed columns is in excellent preservation. The columns are nearly seven feet in diameter, and their distance from centre to centre is twenty-four feet; so that the intercolumniations are about equal to two

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DINNER AT SHEIK HASSAN'S.

diameters and a half of the pillars-a nearer approach than any other I met with in Egypt to the due proportions prescribed by Grecian taste.

On the ceiling of the pronaos, the signs of the zodiac are painted. The Temple contains three large apartments en suite, from which passages and staircases lead to an upper range of small chambers, curiously sculptured and painted.

On our arrival at Sheik Hassan's, at the appointed dinner-hour, he informed us that six camels had been engaged for the morrow to carry us to Kosseir, for which and the return (staying there two entire days) we were to pay the moderate sum of forty-five piastres each—about twelve shillings and sixpence in English money.

After enumerating the various precautions we must take, over a preparatory pipe, dinner was brought in, and we sat down to table, a partie quarrée, in most Christian fashion, each person, besides a chair, being provided with a knife, fork, and spoon.

SUBSTANTIAL REPAST.

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Our fare consisted of a lamb roasted whole, and stuffed with a farci of rice, raisins, and pistachio nuts. This was followed by a turkey, dressed in the same manner, and various stews of meat and vegetables. These were in turn succeeded by two immense dishes of a kind of paste, of the consistence of ravioli, one flavoured with cheese, the other with honey

A huge bowl of rice and cream closed the substantial repast, which was washed down with some tolerable wine, and a bottle of

Hodgson's pale ale,” that had been presented to our host by an English gentleman, who passed through Kheneh on his way home from India, and which the worthy old Sheik-telling us it was Bengal wine—thought must needs be a great treat.

We were waited upon at dinner by the Sheik's two sons and grandson, who changed our plates as required, and handed the dishes off to the domestics, ranged in second line, near the door communicating with the base of operations.

VOL. II.

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They were quite lost in astonishment at our strangely circuitous mode of conveying the food to our mouths; and, judging by a suppressed female giggling we occasionally heard, they were not the only persons that derived amusement from the curious manoeuvres of our knives and forks. The usual ablution over, we resumed our seats on the divan, and replenished pipes.

DEPARTURE FOR KOSSEIR.

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CHAPTER II.

Departure for Kosseir-Pace of the Dromedary-Wells at El Gay

tah-Observations on the Desert-Pass of Issud-El MegribThe Consular Agent at Kosseir-American Trickery—The Citadel-Hospitality of Said Mohammed-An Arab Dinner-New Route-Mountain Pass-Wad-el-Ash-Hints to the Traveller-Nomadic Arab Tribes-Partridges and Grouse-Return to Kheneh-Seizure of our Boatmen for the Nizam-Visit to GirgehApprehension of the Delinquent3 — The Bastinado — Town of Akhmin-Minien-Return to Cairo.

At an early hour the following morning we mounted our camels on the beach, and started for Kosseir. The road, after leaving Kheneh, takes a south-easterly direction, skirting the cultivated land that hereabouts extends some distance from the bank of the river.

In four hours we reached the village of Beerahambah, beyond which all cultivation

It is a wretched place, containing about one hundred inhabitants.

After an hour's rest, which we stood in some need of, we resumed our exalted seats, but it took us

ceases.

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