cipitous cliffs of the citadel-hill, and so complete the enceinte of the place. The whole town thus lies between the land front and the citadel, and, consequently, that work, though on very commanding ground, is not in a situation to assist much in the defence of the fortifications on the land front of the place. It, however, covers it most effectually from an attack on the sides washed by the sea. It is a Venetian work, presenting towards the town three well planned, though irregularly, bastioned fronts, whilst sea-wards the walls follow the sinuosities of the rocks, which are high, and difficult of access; and are yet further strengthened by ledges of shelving rocks, 'which jut a considerable distance into the sea. The only advanced work of the citadel is a kind of demi-lune, covering the curtain of the eastern-most front, in which is the gate. The walls are thirty-five feet high, and rest upon the rocky foundation afforded by the hill itself, which, being elevated about fifty feet above the town, most completely commands it.

292

POPULATION OF THE TOWN.

There was not a single piece of artillery mounted that would stand three rounds of firing. The mortars could not be fired at all. The front towards the town, indeed, was armed principally with petareros. The guns are all brass, and towards the sea there are some very long pieces. The tanks and magazines are no longer serviceable, and the citadel altogether is in a very unhealthy state. It is inhabited (for it contains numerous streets and mosques) by five hundred Turks, who carefully and prudently exclude all of Grecian blood from their stronghold. It is garrisoned, however, by a detachment of Egyptian troops, a battalion of whom is constantly quartered at Retimo.

The population of the town, including the inhabitants of the citadel, is estimated at eight thousand souls; the greater portion are Turks, who employ themselves principally in agriculture; but the place contains also some tanneries and silk-looms on a small scale, which, likewise, are worked by the hands of the faithful. The Greek inhabitants, amount

STATE OF THE HARBOUR.

293

ing, perhaps, to one-third of the whole population, are fishermen, mariners, and shopkeepers.

The town covers a considerable space of ground, and is well built and clean. The streets are wide, straight, well paved, and abundantly supplied with water. The houses, except those on the outskirts, are lofty and good; the bazaars well furnished, and provisions cheap. The place is supplied with water by means of an aqueduct, but that of the wells is excellent.

The trade of Retimo has fallen off greatly, from the neglected state of the port; for the mole forming the harbour has nearly disappeared, and sand and mud have accumulated to such a degree within it, that no vessels of more than thirty tons burden can now shelter there. Steps, however, are taking to deepen the harbour and repair the mole, at the head of which a small light-house has been erected. Large vessels can anchor off the eastern side of the town, sheltered from the north-west wind, which prevails on this coast nine months

294

COUNCIL OF RETIMO.

in the year; but a sudden change would oblige them to go to sea immediately.

The trade of the place is principally with the Morea, and the islands of the Grecian Archipelago, exporting oil and soap, and taking in exchange corn and oats.

The garrison consists of a battalion of the Nizam, varying in strength from six to eight hundred men. Its colonel is Governor of the place for the time being. The province is governed in civil matters, by a Council composed of a president and twelve members; and holds its sittings at Retimo. But the rule laid down for the composition of these assemblies has here been unavoidably broken through, from the difficulty of finding a sufficient number of persons who could or would read and write, amongst the rural population of the different districts. The members of the Provincial Council of Retimo are, consequently, almost all Mohammedans and inhabitants of the city itself.

The road to Canea skirts the sea-beach for the first half hour after quitting Retimo; it

then ascends the rocky cliffs that for the succeeding five miles border the coast, along which a paved road has been formed, presenting an obstacle that one would conceive had been purposely and cunningly devised to impede the march of an enemy upon the fortress. It winds up and down continually, at times being neither more nor less than a steep staircase, at others skirting some awful precipices, which threaten annihilation in the event of a false step.

Our horses were good and tolerably fresh, so that we managed to scramble safely over this work of art, accomplishing the task in something under two hours and a half; but deeply to be commiserated is the luckless wight who arrives here on a jaded hack, after riding from Canea! For the benefit of future travellers, it is earnestly to be hoped that some Mohammedan M'Adam may arise to amend the ways of the island, and conduct Mohammed Ali's Candiote subjects by more safe and less tortuous paths, from one town to another. On reaching the foot of the hill,