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Temple of Luxor - System of Plunder-Solitary Obelisk-Grand

Avenue of Sphinxes—Temple of Karnac-Its vast extent—Ruined
Propylæ - Lateral Temples — Cross to the Western side of the
Nile — The Memnonium — Specimen of the Wonderful Capacity
of the Hieroglyphical Language-Palace of Sesostris-Sculpture
of the Egyptians-Remarks on Champollion's Hieroglyphical Dis-
coveries-Dammy and Shammy-Temple of Dair-Tombs of the
Kings—Belzoni’s Tomb—Village of Gournou-Traffic in Mum-
mies—Anecdote of a post mortem Ambitious English Traveller-
Remains at Denderah-Dinner at Sheik Hassan's.



the ruins of the ancient Diospolis ; yet we were sufficiently alive to the “gout détestabledisplayed in the white-washed villa of his countrymen, to be induced to change our previously-arranged plan for staying some days at Luxor. Ordering the Reis, therefore, to drop down the river with the cange to the landing-place abreast of Karnac, we proceeded to explore the splendid ruin before us.

The effect of the interior of the temple is as much spoilt by its containing an Arab village, as is the exterior, by the French Rus in urbe." The quantity of sand that has drifted in also tends greatly to rob it of its fair proportions.

The sculpture on the exterior walls appeared to me to be coarser, and of worse execution, than usual, although stated by Champollion to be extremely fine. The chariot of the hero of the sculptured tale looks as like a wheelbarrow, drawn by a Giraffe, as a car by a pair of horses.

Two splendid obelisks of red granite formerly stood in front of the principal entrance of this temple ; but one of them was carried



off, a few years since, to embellish the French capital.

It is difficult to understand the feeling that leads to such a system of plunder. The abstraction of this characteristic ornament is much felt here, where it was in keeping with the rest of the building—whereas it is divested of all interest amongst the gravel walks of (that constant arena of strife) the Place de la Concorde, where it has recently been erected.

No people have exclaimed so vehemently as the French at Lord Elgin's carrying off the bassi relievi on the freize of the Parthenon, where, had they been suffered to remain but a few years longer, they would have been completely destroyed, and yet the arrival of the indestructible Egyptian obelisk, at Paris, was hailed with as much classic enthusiasm, as if the great Ammon Rà himself had started into life, and come to the French capital to preside over “ La societé pour la propagation des connoissances scientifiques.

It is to be hoped that the British Government will not be induced to follow so bad an



example, by removing the great obelisk yet standing at Karnac, which, report says, has been presented by Mohammed Ali to the English nation.

The grand entrance to the temple of Luxor faces the north, and is still adorned by the remaining granite obelisk and four colossal statues. From thence, the whole way to the southern propylon of the Temple of Karnac

-a distance of about a mile and a half—an avenue of Sphinxes is supposed to have extended. . It is even now visible for several hundred yards, on approaching the outer gateway of the latter temple; but the traveller, on his first visit to this magnificent pile, should enter it by the gateway in the western, or principal, propylon.

What a sight then bursts upon him ! Whilst he stands in a splendid court-which itself equals in grandeur anything of the kind ever executed by the hand of man-his eye is directed by an avenue of enormous pillars that passes entirely through the centre of the building, to an endless perspective of gate



ways, columns, and obelisks-an extent of one thousand six hundred feet!

The edifice now presented to his view not only surpasses in splendour and magnitude all the other temples of Egypt, but makes the works of the Greeks and Romans sink into insignificance, for the celebrated Temple of Minerva at Athens might stand within the Dromos, whilst the court, enclosing the sanctuary, could contain the Roman Colosseum !

Passing through the second propylon, the astonished spectator enters an immense apartment, the roof of which--composed of enormous flat slabs—is supported by one hundred and thirty-six pillars, of infinite variety of shape and ornament, disposed in sixteen rows.

From thence, a passage through a third propylon leads him into the principal court of the temple, nearly in the centre of which stands the sanctuary, built entirely of polished granite.

Ere admittance could be gained to the Holy place, there was yet another small pylon to be passed, at the angles of which formerly stood

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