seen in Paris, is impossible. Its splendid buildings and public monuments cannot fail to please every one. However fastidious a person's taste may be, he may have his desires satisfied, even to satiety; but what especially charms the eyes of strangers, in the French capital, is a beautiful belt, called the Boulevards, which encircles the town. It consists of drives and walks, bordered with forest trees. Owing to an immense number of handsome shops, and a profusion of flowers, it has a peculiar air of gaiety; and possesses, during summer, a salubrious coolness rarely met with in a large metropolis.

The Louvre is, to me, the most attractive object in Paris. Its beautiful paintings and its exquisite statuary are most charming. It was here that I first gained knowledge, by studying the ancient masters; and, whenever I enter this noble building, the splendid paintings that hang upon its walls, throw over the scene a fascination and an enchantment which overpower my feelings, but which it is not in the power of language to describe.

Such sensations as these may have been felt by other persons; but it is the artist only who can duly appreciate the benefits that arise from studying in such a gallery. Here are the golden hues of Titian, the speaking eyes of Raffaelle, the splendour of Rubens, the gorgeous gloom of Rembrandt, the elegance of Vandyke, and the silvery landscapes of Claude. These are all favourites of mine. I feel in transports when I stand before them; and I hope for life and health to be enabled to emulate their beauties. I frequently wish that my friend and patron were here, that he might enjoy, with me, the pleasure such splendid works inspire.

The old masters appear to have looked at nature, with a feeling for purity, both in design and colouring, which cannot be too much admired. The expression of the different passions is so ably and so forcibly depicted in their works, that they almost amount to reality; and they seem to be surrounded with a halo of thought and sentiment. To study amongst such admirable works, is,

to the young artist, an invaluable privilege; for they throw us back into the presence of men who cause us to feel how much we have to learn, and also to feel that, unless we are willing to make our pleasures bend to our studies, it would be better for us to forsake the arts altogether, and learn some mechanical trade.

Yesterday, we visited the Exhibition (Exposition) of the Beaux Arts, to see the works executed by the French students at Rome. These students are sent to the Imperial City, by the French Government; and are obliged to send to Paris an original production, every year, for exhibition. We did not consider the Exposition equal to that of last year. On that occasion, the students had given to them a subject, from which they had to make a design. This plan is, in my opinion, better than leaving the students to choose for themselves, as it causes more emulation,

The subject of one of the paintings now exhibited is Adam and Eve after their expulsion from Paradise. As a work of art, it is very good. The loneliness of our first parents is well depicted; and their forlorn condition is so feelingly expressed, that the sympathy of the beholder is excited by their painful situation, when they,

With wandering steps and slow, Through Eden took their solitary way. The artist has only been one year at Rome; and there is no doubt but, if he persevere in his studies, he will attain eminence in the art.

The subject of another painting was a man chained to a rock, and his four daughters. The artist has been five years in the imperial city; but, in our opinion, his production did not show equal ability to the Adam and Eve.

There were a few good chalk drawings; and a marble statue of a nymph, holding a shell to her ear to listen to the sound, was very well executed. Two bas-relief

medals also were excellent. The architectural drawings were of the first class, for finishing; and showed the students to be persevering and industrious.

Taking it altogether, the Exposition of 1840 is inferior to some that I have seen in former years.

We afterwards paid a visit to the Luxemburg Gallery, but did not find that many new pictures had been added since last year. This collection consists, principally, I might almost say exclusively, of productions of the French school; and, although there was little novelty, we had great pleasure in looking at those we had seen before,-our old, familiar friends." Some of them are examples of good drawing; and that, as every artist knows, is of the first importance.

The French school is not noted for attention to colour; and this I am rather surprised at, for the Louvre contains, amongst the works of the ancient masters, as fine specimens in that department of the art, as could be wished for, as studies.

There was one new picture, of first-rate excellence,Cato and the Assassin. The stern Roman looks the villain in the face, and appears to bid him do his worst. The steadfast look and firm demeanour of an innocent man,-of one, too, who has done his duty to his country, abash the hardened ruffian and unnerve his arm. He hesitates, and appears unable to strike the blow. As a work of art, the painting is good. The artist has chosen evening as the time of the occurrence; and the orange tinge thrown upon the different objects, by the setting sun, gives them a sombre hue,-producing a powerful sensation upon the beholder.

We purpose leaving this city to-morrow.

I am, Dear Sir, your's truly,

J. H.

LETTER II.

JOURNEY FROM PARIS.-FONTANBLEAU.-ME

LUN.

DIJON.-GENLIS.-AUXONNE.-DOLE.

THE JURA MOUNTAINS.-LES ROUSSES.-THE

ALPS.-GENEVA.-ROUSSEAU.

To the Editor of the Halifax Express.

Geneva, Sept. 6th, 1840.

Dear Sir,-We left Paris, by the diligence, for Geneva, on the 31st of August. We took our seats in the coupée, which is in front of the coach, immediately behind the conducteur, or driver. This is a very good situation for seeing the country; and, being like a covered gig, it protects the passengers from the weather.

We found, occupying the third place, a gentleman who had resided for five years in Manchester. He made himself very agreeable, and our journey was pleasant.

The coach did not pass through Fontanbleau, but left it on our right. This we regretted, as the buildings there are very ancient, and a sight of them would have been gratifying. The palace is, we were informed, a low, straggling mass of very old buildings. It was erected by St. Louis, in the twelfth century; and he used to date from it his rescripts,-" From my deserts of Fontanbleau."

We were told that the inmates of the palace show the table on which Buonaparte signed his abdication in 1814; but we did not much regret not seeing it. Our regret arose more from not being able to see the surrounding country, which is very fine. It is remarkable for its craggy precipices and rugged hills; and these are more attractive to the taste, as well as more in accordance

with the feelings, of an artist, than the sight of a table, even though it may be one upon which a great man has written.

We dined at Mélun, where there was a fair, and a market for corn. The coach had great difficulty in getting through the town, as sacks of grain were spread about the streets, in every direction, without any regard to order; and the farmers did not seem to consider that it was at all necessary to pull a sack to one side, to let the carriage pass.

The country through which we had passed, on our way from Paris, we considered to be much better cultivated than that between Paris and Boulogne. The scenery is more hilly; and it is, in many places, richer in woods and pasturage, corn fields and vineyards.

During the night, we passed through several small towns; and we breakfasted at Troyes. After leaving Troyes, the road became more hilly, and increased in interest every stage. The chateaus that we passed were, for the most part, delightfully situated; but they appeared to be much neglected. A kind of disorder, and want of care in keeping them in proper trim, seemed to pervade most of them.

Alpine scenery continued the greater part of the way to the post-house at Pont-de-pany,-a bridge thrown over the river Ouche, near the head of the Canal of Burgundy. The road from this place passes, for a short distance, between rocky mountains; and afterwards it traverses a fine country, till it reaches Dijon.

We observed, during our route, that Indian corn was extensively cultivated. Walnut trees were very plentiful, by the road-side, and yielded fruit in abundance. The picturesque beauty of this tree can scarcely be imagined by persons who have seen those only of our own country. You have a fine specimen at Elland Hall; but it is not to be compared, in point of size, with those that we saw. The vineyards, too, were both extensive and luxuriant; yet, as we approached the Jura mountains, we perceived a difference in the size of the fruit.