Yesterday, we heard the Rev. Mr. Hare preach, at the English Church; and we afterwards walked to see the house in which Calvin died. To-day we pursue our journey towards the Simplon.

I am, Dear Sir, yours truly,

J. H.

LETTER V.

OF

DEPARTURE FROM GENEVA. THE LAKE GENEVA AND ITS SCENERY.-LAUSANNE.BRIGG. THE SIMPLON.-THE REFUGES.-THE BARRIER. THE HOSPICE.-THE VILLAGE OF SIMPLON.-GONDO.-THE SCENERY OF THE SIMPLON.-OFFICIAL ACCOUNT OF THE SIMPLON. DUOMO D' OSSOLA.-ISELLA.

To the Editor of the Halifax Express.

Isella, Sept. 23, 1840.

DEAR SIR,-We left Geneva, for Milan, the day before yesterday, at noon, and arrived at Lausanne by six in the evening. We were delighted with our route, which lay along the margin of the Lake. The fineness of the day, and a beautifully clear atmosphere, contributed greatly to our enjoyment, as we were thereby enabled to see the loftiest peak of Mont Blanc; and this is a rare privilege to travellers; the summit being generally enveloped in clouds. The placid surface of the lake was unruffled; and its pellucid waters showed very distinctly the reflection of the hoary monarch of the Alps. It was not without a sigh of regret that we left this truly sublime scenery; and all nature appeared as if arrayed in her most lovely and captivating garb, when we were taking our farewell glance. The country

through which we were journeying was pleasingly diversified by the neat Swiss cottage, the elegant villa, and the gloomy chateau; while the weeping willow gracefully contrasted with the sturdy oak. The peasantry were gathering walnuts from the trees which line the

road-side for many miles. Our time passed very agreeably; for we had no sooner quitted one pretty object, than another presented itself to our view.

We were detained at Lausanne until midnight, waiting for another diligence; and we had got a considerable distance up the valley before day-break. We had travelled over this part of the road, the week before, during very heavy rain. When the sun arose, we perceived that a large quantity of snow had fallen upon the higher mountains, since we had seen them before; and the verdure of the lower hills and in the valleys appeared the more lively by the contrast. We saw many fine effects; and the autumnal tints gave a rich variety to the scenery.

Towards the close of the day, after passing through a flat, uninteresting country, we arrived at Brigg, which is situated at the foot of the Simplon; and we stopped there all night. We resumed our journey at four o'clock the next morning, and had been on the road nearly two hours before daylight enabled us to see the large pastures and the farm-houses that we had passed in our ascent. The road is very good, for many miles; and the rise is so gradual, that it would be pleasant walking for the pedestrian. I should, indeed, very much enjoy walking over it; for then I should have better opportunities of using my pencil.

On the Simplon, there are houses of refuge for travellers to take shelter in, when the weather is tempestuous. On arriving at the second of these, the diligence stopped a short time, and we made a hasty sketch of the snowclad mountains which we had to pass, after traversing a long valley clothed with fir trees and herbage. We then proceeded along another valley; and, winding round the base of a mountain, we came to a view of a fine waterfall, near a bridge over the river Kanter. We were then within a short distance of the third Refuge, and we stopped there, to partake of some excellent coffee and honey. The trees that we passed were principally larch and spruce firs. On entering that part of the road which is considered the most dangerous

in winter, we had a fine view of Brigg, which appeared at a great distance in the valley. It was then five hours since we had left that place. It appears to me that a mountain seems to be of greater magnitude, either when you are at the summit, and look down on the valley; or when you are midway up, and the eye can take in the height at two distinct points.

From the third Refuge, we continued to ascend a winding road; and, at every turn, we had fine views of the Alpine scenery by which we were surrounded. The first glacier gallery that we came to, had a waterfall conducted over the centre of it, and rushing into the chasm below. This produced a fine effect. The engineer who constructed it must have been a man of taste and a lover of the picturesque. The gallery is excavated through a lofty mountain: and there are apertures in the sides, to admit light. In some of these galleries, the roof is awfully grand; and the rocks seem as if they would overwhelm the traveller. The sides have the appearance of massive walls, so solid that nothing but an earthquake could possibly move them. These galleries, or grottoes, are so admirably constructed, that the avalanches slide over them, and fall into the abysses beneath.

We were now coming to where nature wears a dreary and chilling aspect. We had been travelling, for some hours, amongst fine old firs and gigantic pines; but we were now amongst stunted trunks, and we soon came to where even these were no longer to be seen. No flowers reared their gay leaves in that desolate region, and scarcely any herbage was visible. Shortly afterwards, even that scanty relic of vegetation had ceased to flourish, and all was barren rock; the higher grounds being covered with snow, We were not able to see the summits of the mountains, which were concealed by the clouds that rolled in large volumes down upon us, and brought rain with them.

The sixth Refuge is called the Barrier; and we had not got far beyond it when we came in sight of the Hospice, which is a large pile of buildings, capable of

affording accommodation to a very large number of persons. Napoleon ordered it to be erected; but it is not yet completed. It is kept by the monks of St. Bernard. We met one of them. He had a long beard; and his dress was of dark brown cloth. He was without stockings; and he wore a kind of sandal, instead of shoes.

From the Barrier, the road descends, through a wild country, to the village of Simplon. At the post-house there, we found a well-aired room; and the keen air of the mountain gave a relish to the plate of soup that was set before us. In consequence of the great height of the hills by which the village is surrounded, its inhabitants do not enjoy much of the cheering warmth of the sun. It is too bleak and cold a spot to grow many vegetables; and provisions are generally brought from Switzerland or Italy.

After leaving this village, which gives its name to the whole route, we entered upon scenery of an awfully grand description. Excavations are carried through the hardest rocks, at the base of which rush impetuous torrents, dashing amongst large masses of rock that have fallen, from time to time, and have been rolled along by the current. Of late there have been high floods, principally caused by the heavy rains which fell on the 18th and 19th instant; and the waters have carried away many bridges and some parts of the road itself; so that we were sometimes obliged to walk over temporary embankments, and at others to cross fields covered with pebbles left by the flood.

The hills here were of immense altitude, and approached so near to each other, that the road between them was very narrow. The light, too, was so scanty, that the scene had all the gloom of twilight; and this added to the awfulness of its grandeur. We passed over several fine bridges; and one or two were most stupendous erections. The road is carried through several galleries or grottoes; and we saw many cascades. Some were light and elegant; falling to the ground like small rain, or mist: and others rushed impetuously down, making a noise like thunder.