Records of the Beau Monde. FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER, 1825. EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF THE FASHIONS. No. 1.-HOME COSTUME. DRESS of canary yellow gros de Naples, trimmed at the border with three broad bias folds of the same material; the sleeves very full, and confined at the wrist with three bands of the same silk as the dress. The corsage is plain, and made partially low; but the bosom is shielded by a double pelerine of white crape, gauffrée, scalloped at the edges, and fastened in front at the throat with a bow of scarlet and yellow striped ribbon this tippet is surmounted by a small frill of Urling's lace: the headdress consists of a fichu-negligée cap of the same manufacture, with long pendant strings of scarlet and yellow ribbon. No. 2.-FRENCH MORNING WALKING A HIGH dress of a lavender-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed round the border with three rows of the same, of full fluted flounces, plaited in the middle: the sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists with straps of the same material as the gown. A pelerine cape falls over the shoulders, trimmed all round, the same as the skirt, except that this trimming is narrower than the flounces over the pelerine falls a double collar of fine Mechlin lace. A bonnet of white chip is worn with this dress, which is more simple, and more à l'Anglaise than any we have lately seen from Paris. This bonnet is ornamented in a novel manner, which takes from it the summer lightness it would otherwise have, but which we do not much admire: it has bias rouleaux of chip entwined all over the crown, and reaching over a part of the brim. We would advise our countrywomen who admire this dress to have the rouleaux of white satin. We only describe it agreeably to the statement of it from our Parisian correspondent. It has a beautiful full bouquet of blown roses, with their buds and foliage placed in front. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FASHIONS AND DRESS. THE month of November this propitious year came not in, as usual, with fog and rain; but clear skies, and a mild temperature, still kept fashion in a state of uncertainty, as to the adoption generally made of those materials of dress which are decidedly wintry; and many of her votaries yet continued clad in the lighter vesture of autumn's milder reign. However, night triumphs over day, and the long empire of artificial light renders the summer garments unsuitable. By degrees, the autumnal fashions are seen yielding to those more appropriate to winter, and some keen and turbulent winds, during the progress of November, have convinced us of the near approach of the rigid season. We, therefore, behold, with a sensation of comfort, the large fur pelerine, of dimensions which render its title, of Russian mantelet, by no means outré. This warm appendage to out-door costume is often worn over a high dress of British cachemire, poplin, or coloured bombazin. Venetian cloaks of the richest winter colours, and the most costly materials, are much in request among the most fashionable: very few have yet been seen garnished with fur; but it is expected that their warmth and richness will soon be increased by the addition of the sable, grey squirrel, and other valuable skins. Cachemire shawls, with splendid borders of variegated colours, are often thrown over a dress for evening parties, when a lady returns to her carriage: they are warm, less heavy than the cloaks, and consequently less likely to derange the dress underneath. Satin pelisses are expected to take the lead in carriages, this winter, in preference to gros de Naples; and cloth pelisses will prevail much for the promenade: fanciful trimmings will, of course, be exploded; as fur the border with four very broad bias folds, each lined with the same coloured satin as the slip the body is of white satin, made like a low spencer, and richly trimmed with blond. For home costume, or for re is expected to be very generally adopted in the trimming, not only of pelisses and mantles, but also on walking dresses. Straw hats are yet seen in walking costume on young persons: they are trimmed in a simple manner, with very broad co-ceiving social dinner parties, a dress of amaloured ribbon, forming a long bow in front, with strings of the same, which, in mild weather, are often seen floating loose. However, the reign of velvet hats and bonnets is at hand, and many have already appeared some are of coloured velvet, but the major part are black, and are ornamented with curled feathers, in a handsome plume-one long feather falling over the left shoulder: the velvet hats are of a very becoming shape, and of moderate dimensions. Some black velvet bonnets are ornamented with yellow narcissus, and other coloured flowers: these flowers should all be made of velvet. There are, however, many white hats still to be seen în carriages: they are generally of white watered gros de Naples, and are ornamented with full-blown Japanese roses; a small cornette of blond is worn under them. We have also seen some satin bonnets, prepared for ladies of distinction: they are of striking colours; one, of bright myrtlegreen, was lined and trimmed with violet || colour; another, of corn-flower-blue, lined with straw colour, with bows the colour of the lining, had a very pleasing effect. An evening dress of bright jonquil crape over white satin, has excited much admiration; it is trimmed at the border with three broad-pointed flounces, each headed, and the points edged round by a satin rouleau || of the same colour as the crape: the sleeves are long, and en gigot; confined at the wrist by a broad bracelet of woven hair, fastened with a beautifully-executed white cameo-head of Bacchus, on a ground of beryl, and splendidly surrounded by fillagree gold. The corsage is made quite plain, and, though what is now called low, entirely shielding the bust: all extremes touch on the ridiculous; exposure of female attractions may be avoided without that awkward, confined appearance, which destroys all the elegance of full dress. Another evening dress, of white crape over blush-coloured satin, which imparts to it a most delightful tint, is also a specimen of good taste. This dress is ornamented at No. 12.-Vol. II. ranthine levantine, with pointed flounces edged with black silk cordon, and a black velvet girdle, fastened with a richly-wrought gold buckle, has been seen on a lady of taste and distinction. It was charmingly becoming: the body was made en gerbe, and the sleeves en gigot, fastened at the wrists with splendid bracelets of gold à l'Indostanee, with cameo snaps, and close to the wrist; one of fine net-work, made of small beads of different colours, on the right arm only. Dark and beautifullyshaded striped silks are much worn in home costume: the ground is generally of a Macassar brown, the stripes orange and scarlet finely shaded off to a paler yellow, and the ground is covered with small shagreen spots of the same brown colour. Silks, of Scotch tartans, of all the different clans, are expected to prevail much this winter. Chintzes and printed muslins are mostly worn at the breakfast table. Black velvet hats, with a delicate plume in front of white real marabouts, are still the favourite head-dress of the mature beauty for evening parties. These hats are small, discovering the hair well arranged in full curls, and are placed rather backward: on the hair, on the right side, is a bouquet of flowers, formed of jonquils and the bright scarlet blossom of the Andalusian geranium. The hair of young ladies is disposed with an elegant negligence, which is infinitely becoming, except in grande parure, and then it is, indeed, made the most of: it is, however, a native and a charming ornament, and is not now obscured by any thing factitious; for a few pearls, two or three blown roses, or a coronet-comb of diamonds, are all that are added to its own intrinsic beauty. The charming fichu-negligée still maintains its exalted station on the heads of our married ladies, in domestic costume. We have given a specimen of one of these elegant head-dresses (in our engraving for this month) of a novel kind: they are worn at all times of the day, except at dress parties: a simple full-blown flower, often the 2 R York and Lancaster rose, is the sole orna-round the border. I must send you the ment, placed rather backward on the left description of one that peculiarly struck side. The morning cornettes are wide on me; it was of amber gros de Naples, fastenthe temples, composed of very fine lace; ed down the front by bows of satin ribbon the head-pieces ornamented with full puck-placed very close together; and from the erings of gauze, generally of some bright bow that fastened the collar at the throat, or striking colour. they all increased in size to the one that reached the feet. The favourite colours are jonquil, scarlet, amaranth, pink, and corn-flower-blue. Cabinet of Taste, OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN COSTUME. By a Parisian Correspondent. COSTUME OF PARIS. The weather is now cold, damp, and unpleasant; the Gallic belles, therefore, have their warm blouses made of English stuff, as stout and strong as possible: what an idea they have of your solidity! Indeed, I must say, partial as I am to my countrywomen, that they are very awkward imitators of English fashions. I declare, too, I do not know whether to call these blouses or pelisses: they are worn chiefly as out-door costume, and particularly in following the chase. They are girt round the waist by a belt; to which is fastened a reticule of the same lively colours as the stuff. Merino high dresses are also worn for the promenade, without any other out-door covering: they have three flounces cut in round scallops, headed by three rows of plaiting simply hemmed. Spencers of gros de Naples continue to be worn longer than we ever knew them at this season of the year. Before, however, you receive this intelligence, there is little doubt, as furs are expected to be much worn, that pelerines and tippets will be added to the present out-door garments abovementioned. Mantles of Scotch tartan are seen in carriages: there is nothing new in their make since last winter. Some mantles are of hazel-nut brown, lined with blue shag-silk, and with a blue cape of the same material. The only visible change in the pelisses is in the mode of trimming them: the sleeves are still en gigot, and they have a pelerine cape-collar; languettes and entwined foliage of satin ornament them down the front and all Hats of Raymond-blue velvet, of dark green, or of black, are ornamented with a plume of cocks' feathers, yellow and ponfeau. Others are trimmed with ends of satin ribbon, forming a diadem: these ends are cut in very sharp points, and though of the colour of the hat, the ribbon is shaded. On some hats are placed wreaths of velvet flowers in a serpentine manner, A few shaded velvet hats have appeared among the most elegant of our females, and these are ornamented with feathers the colour of the hat. Hats of satin and of plush silk are very prevalent: they are lined with velvet, or satin, of a different but suitable colour to the hat. Dresses of Madras silk, the pattern Scotch tartan of dark colours on a bright amaranthine ground, are greatly admired. The Scotch ladies that are here say, there never was a tartan like it; and even to my eyes, pretty as it is, it appears a nondescript. The flounces are of the same colour and material: of these flounces there are three, almost touching each other; but the chequers on the flounces are smaller than those on the dress itself, and are in diamonds. This diversity has not a good effect; it gives an idea that, unable to match the pattern, the wearer has been obliged to put up with what she could get most like it. A white canezou spencer of organdy is worn with this dress, trimmed with quilling of tulle. The canezou is made low, and a narrow cape-collar falls over and surrounds the bust: this collar is scalloped and trimmed with plaited tulle. The sleeves are en gigot, as to shape, but are not very wide; over the top of the sleeve falls a mancheron formed of one large scallop, trimmed at the edge with tulle plaited. The sleeves are fastened at the wrist with a broad gold bracelet, secured by a ruby brooch. I have seen a dress of gros de Naples, with five rows of plaited flounces: they were laid in square, flat plaits, and each flounce was headed by a |
