DESCRIPTION OF NAZARETH.

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CHAPTER XX.

Description of Nazareth-Church of the Annunciation-Virgin's Grotto -Joseph's Workshop-Sacred Stone Table-Mount of Precipitation→→ Cana of Galilee-Mountain of the Beatitudes-Town of TiberiasSea of Tiberias-Mount Tabor-A Band of Robbers-From Nazareth to Mount Carmel-Ruins of Megiddo-River Kishon-Caipha-Convent on Mount Carmel-Extensive View from Carmel-Arrival at AcreDescription-Awful Effects of War.

A VALLEY ascending northward from the plain of Esdrælon, forms the main site of the city of Nazareth. The north end of this valley seems by nature to be scooped out so as to enlarge it to two-thirds of a circle, forming an amphitheatre of hills on full three sides. The hills on the east and west are high; on the north more moderate. The city stands principally in the valley, but extends some up the hill-sides west and north. The houses are all of stone, with flat terraced roofs. I noticed one Mohammedan mosque, and from the tall minaret saw and heard the priest proclaiming the hour of prayer.

The Greeks, Latins, and Maronites all have establishments and churches in Nazareth, but the largest building, or rather collection of buildings in the place is the Latin Convent. The present population of Nazareth is probably about 3,500.

Like Bethlehem and Jerusalem, there is no lack of holy places in Nazareth. The Greeks have a church said to cover the place where the angel Gabriel made the annunciation to the Virgin; and the Latins have also a church of the annunciation. They are situated some distance apart, but both set of monks pretend, beyond doubt, to show the very

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CHURCH OF THE ANNUNCIATION.

place where the Virgin was sitting when the angel appeared to her, and of course you must believe them if you can. Although we did not come as pilgrims to holy places pointed out in legendary tradition, yet we felt disposed to visit the noted places to be shown. We repaired to the Latin Church of Annunciation. The interior of this building is plain, with massive arches, and the walls are hung with red damask, giving the whole a rich lustre. There are two fine organs in it, and a monk played some soft melodious airs while we remained. Near the altar the floor rises, and there is an ascent to it by steps. Under this is a grotto, in which it is said the Virgin once lived, and where she received the salutation of the angel Gabriel. This grotto is now a chapel. There are some smaller rooms connected with it, which are said to have constituted parts of Joseph's and Mary's house.

In another part of the town is Joseph's workshop, where he wrought at the carpenter's trade, as the monks have it. It, however, presents a small place of very ancient appearance. A remnant of the synagogue, too, is shown where Christ, by reading a portion from the prophecy of Isaiah, and applying it to himself, so exasperated the Jews that they rose up and thrust him out of the city. In another small chapel was shown us the table at which it is said that Christ repeatedly ate with his disciples, both before and after his crucifixion. It is a large flat stone about three feet high and forty in circumference.

At the south-west part of the town is a small Maronite chapel. It stands near a perpendicular ledge,

which, with the hill above, sloping back but slightly, forms a sudden eminence of forty or fifty feet. This is most probably the spot where the Jews led Jesus "unto the brow of the hill, whereon their city was built, that they might cast him down headlong; but he passing through the midst of them, went his way." The monks have chosen to fix the place of this occurrence near two miles south of the town; a very awkward position. It does not look reasonable that in a popular tumult, a populace would lead their victim off two miles, to do that which they had facilities for doing right at hand. Besides, it was the hill on which their city was built, which could not be said of a hill two miles off.

At the south-east part of the town is the Greek Church of Annunciation. We did not enter it; but near it is a beautiful stone fountain, where it is said the Virgin was in the habit of going for water. It is now called the Fountain of the Virgin. We were standing near this beautiful spring about sunset. At this hour, scores of females are seen coming out of the town, bearing rude pieces of pottery on their heads, called pitchers. Each one filled her pitcher at the fountain, and then placing it on her head, bore it off without touching hand to it. While standing there, in the space of twenty minutes, I presume we saw more than one hundred females thus come and go again. The scene was oriental and truly picturesque.

As a quiet, pleasant town, surrounded with beautiful and romantic scenery, I saw no place in the Holy Land to be preferred to Nazareth. Its situation is highly picturesque, and there is something

pleasing and inviting in the place. But a peculiar sensation of mind arose, from the fact that I was then in the city of our Saviour's abode and within the scenery of his principal miracles. I was treading over ground once often trodden by the divine Redeemer of man. He had walked over these streets, traversed these valleys, and climbed the hills that surrounded me. Here he began his ministry of mercy, and consummated it on Calvary, when he said, "It is finished." I felt, indeed, that I was surrounded by holy associations, and my feelings can only be appreciated by another in the actual realization of the same scene.

Feb. 18. Set out in the morning to visit the Lake Tiberias. Passing out by the Fountain of the Virgin, at the north-east part of the town, we commenced the ascent of the mountain. From thence our course lay in a north-east direction. We descend. ed for near two miles down a rocky ravine, passing two small Arab villages to our left, of no particular note. In about one hour we came to the reputed Cana of Galilee. At this place the Saviour performed his first miracle, that of turning water into wine. A small chapel is erected over the place, where it is said the young man's house stood in which our Lord wrought the miracle. In it, large stone water-pots are shown, and the monks say they are the very identical ones in which the water was changed! Cana is now but a small village, standing on the south-western slope of a hill.

Passing over a slight eminence, where rocks are strewn in most bountiful profusion, we soon entered a large plain. It is said to be on this plain that the

MOUNT OF BEATITUDES.

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disciples plucked ears of corn on the Sabbath day. One hour further on we passed a low hill, with two little elevations on it. This is called the Mountain of Beatitudes, on which our Saviour preached his sermon, recorded by St. Matthew. On it are the ruins of a small chapel, marking the place where he stood. Whether this be the identical place or not, it would be an admirable one for such a performance. Half an hour further on, we came to a large flat stone, which, says tradition, marks the place where our Lord blessed the five loaves and two small fishes, and fed the five thousand. Near this place we met a caravan of Christian pilgrims from Damascus, going to Nazareth and Jerusalem. They consisted of about one hundred men and women, who were nearly all mounted on horses.

We came in sight of Lake Tiberias about two hours before reaching the town. Just as we began to descend in an eastern direction, we were pointed, at our left, to the well into which Joseph was cast by his brethren, at the time they sold him to the Ishmaelitish merchants, to be carried into Egypt. Beyond, we could see the town of Safed, towering on a hill, like a city whose light could not be hid. Half an hour beyond this, we came to the ruins of a considerable village, mainly at the foot of an eminence to our left. We were not enabled to learn any name for them. Soon after passing these, we began to descend, with the Lake and Tiberias full in view; and in thirty minutes more, passed through the western gate. We called immediately on the governor, who received us very kindly, and had us