110 FOUNTAINS OF MOSES. evident that the van of the host of Israel, and consequently those who first entered the sea, were those farthest to the south. When we consider the immense number of the Israelites, with their women, and children, and cattle, we must believe that their encampment extended several miles along the coast.* During our stay at Suez, we walked a distance on the shore south of the town, inspecting with our eyes every point of land along the gulf, as far as our sight could stretch. The next morning we visited the shore on the opposite side, at a point south-west from the Fountains of Moses. From all the observations I was enabled to make, I came to my present conclusion as to the place where was wrought the stupendous miracle of the passage of Israel through the Red Sea. At Ras Ataka, the Red Sea is probably about five miles wide. Having spent about four hours in Suez, which affords sufficient time to see all of peculiar interest in and around that miserable town, we began to think of crossing to the opposite shore. A small sail-vessel was procured, into which we were stowed, and soon a light breeze wafted us across this arm of the Red Sea. Here we imperceptibly glided out of Africa into Asia. We found our dromedaries in waiting where we landed. At a little past seven in the evening, we reached the Fountains of Moses, where we found our tents pitched and all things in readiness for us. The Fountains of Moses are six or seven springs of brackish water, all within a short space of each other. They are as near as I can judge, about six * Kinnear. . miles south-east from Suez, and two east of the gulf. A few low, shaggy, and unpruned palm-trees grow around the place, affording the only picturesque feature in the landscape. At these fountains it is supposed the Israelites first encamped, after having come up out of the Red Sea. Jan. 2. In consequence of having paid a visit to the shore of the Red Sea, this morning, we were late in getting under way. On leaving the Fountains of Moses, our course was nearly south, over a dreary wilderness of sand, broken here and there into dry, gravelly hollows. We passed "many little hillocks of mortality," designated as small heaps of loose stones, hardly covering the remains of pilgrims who have found a lonely grave in the desert. Encamped about 5, P.M., in Waddy Sader, still in sight of the sea. With our Bedoin guides we had now become on pleasant and familiar terms. They were good-natured, kind, and obliging fellows, always ready to do every thing we wished, as far as in their power. Sheik Tueileb took charge of the arrangements for encamping at night and setting off in the morning; but in other respects, all seemed to be on a footing. The sheik always discovered a kind, benevolent, and obliging turn, taking every pains to render us as comfortable as circumstances would permit. At night the camels were placed in a circle round our tents, where they lay down. Our guides used no tents; but, wrapping themselves up in their blankets, lay down with their camels and slept in the open air. The dress and general appearance of the Bedoin Arabs I shall describe in another place. Jan. 3. Our course during to-day bore more east 112 WATERS OF MARAH. erly than that of yesterday. Soon after starting we lost sight of the sea, which is always a refreshing object. For about ten miles our path lay over a level waste, with scarcely an undulation. We were, however, approaching a mountainous region. For several hours near the middle of the day, the heat was oppressive. In the afternoon, as we were passing among hills, we saw many ledges of what had the appearance of being white marble. About one hour sun, we arrived at the Well of Howara, supposed to be the "Marah" of Scripture; where we encamped. "And when they came to Marah, they could not drink the waters of Marah, for they were bitter; therefore the name of it was called Marah." This well rises in a low sand-hill, and the ground about it is encrusted with salt. The water is exceedingly bitter and undrinkable. I had the curiosity to taste it, and found it extremely bitter and nauseating. The Israelites reached this spring after three days' march, without water, in the desert of Shur. It is situated a little less than fifty miles from the Fountains of Moses, and answers well to the supposition that it is the true Marah. The basin is six or eight feet in diameter, and the water about two feet deep. Near it were two stunted palm-trees and some small bushes. ELIM. 113 CHAPTER VIII. The Elim of Scripture-Rugged and wild Scenery-Pilgrim_Inscriptions -Ruins of Surabit el Khadim-A rude Fortification-A Battle-Visit to an Arab Encampment-An Arab Dance by Star-light-A Desolate Region-Arrival at Mount Sinai-Reception at the Greek Convent. January 4. Set out this morning in good season. About one hour after, met a small caravan, in which were four Bedoin women walking. Their faces were concealed with veils, after the Eastern fashion, while their entire appearance was very filthy. At about 11 o'clock, we came to a valley called by the Arabs Waddy Ghurtundel. This valley is deeper and better supplied with bushes and shrubs than any we had yet passed. A few small palm trees are also scattered in different parts of it. Our Arabs informed us that there were fountains of water at one side of this valley, but not so good as some we should find further on. As we had a small supply of water yet on hand, we made no search for any here. The valley bore marks that water had run through it but a few months before. This valley is now commonly regarded as the Elim of Scripture, to which the Israelites came after leaving Marah, and found twelve wells of water. Professor Robinson thinks there is nothing improbable in this supposition. Our course to-day lay between ridges of mountains of entire naked rock. In many places were ledges of a white chalky color. The whole scene around us bore a peculiarly wild and savage aspect. Nature is often said to smile, but here it may be said emphatically to grin. About the middle of the afternoon, we came to Waddy Esaide, in which was a small spring of brackish water, contiguous to which were a few stunted palm trees. Our Arabs filled some of their goat-skins at this fountain. We had sent off in another direction with the prospect of obtaining good water, but that too when it arrived, was very brackish. An individual can never so sensibly realize the blessing of good water as when travelling in the Desert. Near sunset we encamped in Waddy El Homard. Jan. 4. Soon after starting this morning, we left the Waddy or valley in which we had encamped, and ascended a very considerable ridge of land. From this we passed over a region covered with small pebbles of beautiful and variegated colors. I picked up a few of them. We saw a number of hillocks to-day which bore strong evidence of having once been vol canic. At 3 o'clock, P. M., we came to Waddy Nasb, where it was concluded to encamp and send a distance of two miles for good water. Wishing, also, to visit some mysterious ruins situated but a few miles from this place, the lateness of the hour required that we should take another day for it. The scenery in and around the place where we now encamped was wild, romantic and hideous. A few rods to the west was a pyramidal mountain of solid rock, small at the base, but rising to the height of some two thousand feet. Its craggy form and towering aspect gave it a peculiar and antique appearance. I made an attempt to ascend it, but after succeeding in climbing about half way up its side, found myself completely foiled by projecting crags. I then descended and passed round the base. Large masses of rocks had fallen from its summit and sides, |