the coast of Cochin China. We acquainted him, that we were not French, but English, and asked him whether he did not know that these two nations were now at war with one another? He made answer in the affirmative; but, at the same time, signified to us, that it was indifferent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin China. He here produced another paper which he desired us to read. This was a letter sealed and directed, "To the captains of any European vessels that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was designed for French ships in particular, yet as the direction included all European captains, and as Luco was desirous of our perusing it, we broke the seal, and found it to be written by the bishop who wrote the certificate. Its contents were as follows: "That having reason to expect, by some late intelligence from Europe, that a vessel would soon come to Cochin China, he had, in consequence of this news, got the court to send a Mandarin (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival; that if the vessel should put in there, the commander might either send by the bearer an account to him of his arrival, or trust himself to the Mandarin, who would pilot him into a well-sheltered port in CochinChina, not more than a day's sail from Condore; that should he choose to remain in Condore till the return of the messenger, proper interpreters would be sent back, and any other assistance which a letter should point out be furnished; that it was unnecessary to be more particular, of which the Captain himself must be sensible." This letter had the same date as the certificate, and was returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken.

From this letter, and the whole of Luco's conversation, there remained little doubt that it was a French ship he was to expect. At the same time, we found he would be glad not to lose his errand, and had no objection to become our pilot. We could not discover, from the Mandarin, the exact object and business which the vessel he was waiting for intended to prosecute in Cochin China. It is true that our interpreter, the black, was extremely dull and stupid; and I should, therefore, be sorry, with such imperfect means of information, to run the risk of misleading the reader by any conjectures of my own respecting the object of Luco's visit to this island. I shall only add, that he told us the French ships might perhaps have put into Tirnon, and from thence sail to Cochin China; and as he had received no intelligence of them, he thought this most likely to have been the case. Captain Gore's inquiries were next directed to find out what supplies could be obtained from the island. Luco said, that he had two buffaloes of his own, which were at our service; and that there were plenty on the island, which might be purchased for four or five dollars a head; but finding that Captain Gore thought that sum exceedingly moderate, and would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterwards raised upon us to seven and eight dollars.

Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to the town to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchased; but they were obliged to wait till it was high-water, as they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the surf breaking on the beach with such force, that it was with the utmost difficulty each launch brought a buffalo on board in the evening, and the officers who were sent on this service gave it as their opinion, that between the violence of the surf and the fierceness of the buffalocs, it would be extremely imprudent to attempt bringing any more off in this way. We had purchased eight, and were now at a loss in what manner to proceed to get them on board. We could kill no more than was just necessary for the consumption of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the next. After consulting with Luco, it was concluded, that the remainder should be driven through the wood and over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This plan was accordingly put in execution, but the untractableness and prodigious strength of the buffaloes rendered it a tedious and difficult operation. The method of conducting them was, by passing ropes through their nostrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at the sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke the trees, to which we were often under the necessity of tying them; sometimes they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which the ropes ran, and got loose.

On these occasions, all the exertions of our men to recover them would have been ineffectual, without the assistance of some young boys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whose little managements their rage was soon appeased. And when at length they were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twisting ropes round their legs in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumstance respecting these animals, which I thought no less singular than this gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, affection for little children, was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, before they became the tamest of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a considerable time, which became great favourites with the sailors; and thinking that a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them weighing, when dressed, seven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable acquisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England; but my intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at sea.

It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board; however, there was no reason to regret the time taken up by this service, since, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been discovered, of which, as also of wood, part of the ship's companies had been employed in laying in a good supply; so that a shorter stop would be necessary for replenishing our stock of these articles in the Strait of Sunda. A party had likewise been occupied in drawing the seine at the head of the harbour, where they took a great many good fish; and another party in cutting down the cabbage-palm, which was boiled, and served out with the meat. Besides this, having been able to procure only a scanty supply of cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging was become an object of constant attention, and demanded all our spare time.

Pulo Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant. It takes its name from two Malay words, Pulo, signifying an island, and Condore, a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the southernmost point, in a north-east direction; but its breadth nowhere exceeds two miles. From the westernmost extremity, the land trends to the south-east for about four miles; and opposite to this part of the coast there is an island, called by Monsieur D'Après * Little Condore, which runs two miles in the same direction. This position of the two islands affords a safe and commodious harbour, the entrance into which is from the north-west. The distance between the two opposite coasts is three-quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of coral rock, which runs down along each side, extending about one hundred yards from the shore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five fathoms' water; but the bottom is so soft and clayey, that we found great difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there is shallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two islands approach so near each other, as to leave only a passage at high-water for boats. The most convenient place for watering is at a beach on the eastern side, where there is a small stream which furnished us with fourteen or fifteen tons of water a-day.

This island, both with respect to animal and vegetable productions, is considerably improved since the time when Dampier visited it. Neither that writer, nor the compiler of the East India Directory, makes mention of any other quadrupeds than hogs, which are said to be very scarce, lizards, and the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monsieur Dedier, a French engineer, who surveyed the island about the year 1720, says, that none of the fruits and esculent plants, so common in the other parts of India, are to be found here, except water-melons, a few potatoes, small gourds, chibbols (a small species of onion), and little black beans. At present, besides the buffaloes, of which we understood there were several large herds, we purchased from the natives some remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinese breed. They brought us three or four of a wild sort; and our sportsmen reported, that they frequently met with their tracks in the woods, which also abound with monkeys and squirrels, but so shy, that it was difficult to shoot them. One species of the squirrel was of a beautiful shining black colour, and another species striped brown and white. This

*

is called the flying-squirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane, resembling a bat's wing, extending on each side the belly, from the neck to the thighs, which, on stretching out their legs, spreads, and enables them to fly from tree to tree, at a considerable distance. Lizards were in great abundance; but I do not know that any of us saw the guano, and another animal, described by Dampier as resembling the guano, only much larger. Amongst its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields of rice we passed through; and plantains, various kinds of pompions, cocoa-nuts, oranges, shaddocks, and pomegranates, were also met with; though, except the plantains and shaddocks, in no great abundance. It is probable, from what has been already said relative to the bishop of Adran, that the French have introduced these improvements into the island, for the purpose of making it a more convenient refreshing-station for any of their ships that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. Should they have made, or intend to make, any settlement in those countries, it is certainly well situated for that purpose, or for annoying the trade of their enemies, in case of war.

:

Our sportsmen were very unsuccessful in their pursuit of the feathered game, with which the woods are well stocked. One of our gentlemen had the good fortune to shoot a wild hen and all the shooting parties agreed that they heard the crowing of the cocks on every side, which they described to be like that of our common cock, but shriller; that they saw several of them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly shy. The hen that was shot was of a speckled colour, and of the same shape, though not quite so large, as a full-grown pullet of this country. Monsieur Sonnerat has entered into a long dissertation, to prove that he was the first person who determined the country to which this most beautiful and useful bird belongs, and denies that Dampier met with it here.

The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill, richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the summit to the water's edge. Among others, we observed what Dampier calls the tar-treet; but observed none that were tapped in the manner he describes. The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not numerous. They are of a short stature, and very swarthy, and of a weak and unhealthy aspect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle disposition.

We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at taking leave of the Mandarin, Captain Gore, at his own request, gave him a letter of recommendation to the commanders of any other ships that might put in here; to which he added a handsome present. He likewise gave him a letter for the bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he begged might be presented to him as a compliment for the services he had received through his means at Condore.

From this time the water continued for twelve hours without any visible alteration, viz. : till 16h 15m apparent time, when it began to ebb; and at 22h 15m apparent time, it was low water. The change from ebbing to flowing was very quick, or in less than 5m. The water rose and fell seven feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the same whilst we continued there.

* Vide Dampier, vol. i. p. 392.

+ Dampier, vol. i., p. 390.

VOL. II.

NN

CHAPTER XI. DEPARTURE FROM PULO CONDORE.-PASS THE STRAITS OF BANCA.-VIEW OF THE ISLAND OF SUMATRA.-STRAITS OF SUNDA.-OCCURRENCES THERE.-DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF CRACATOA.— -PRINCE'S ISLAND.-EFFECTS OF THE CLIMATE OF JAVA.-RUN TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.-TRANSACTIONS THERE.-DESCRIPTION OF FALSE BAY.-PASSAGE TO THE ORKNEYS.-GENERAL REFLECTIONS.

On the 28th day of January, 1780, we unmoored; and, as soon as we were clear of the harbour, steered south south-west for Pulo Timoan. On the 30th, at noon, the latitude, by observation, being 5° 0′ N., and longitude 104° 45′ E., we altered our course to south three quarters west, having a moderate breeze from the north-east, accompanied by fair weather. At two in the morning of the 31st, we had soundings of forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white sand; at which time our latitude was 4° 4′ N., longitude 104° 29′ E., and the variation of the compass 0° 31′ E. At one in the afternoon, we saw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore south south-west, three quarters west, distant ten miles. This island is high and woody, and has several small ones lying off to the westward. At five, Pulo Puisang was seen bearing south by cast three quarters east; and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy, and having outrun our reckoning from the effect of some current, we were close upon Pulo Aor, in latitude 2o 46' N., longitude 104° 37′ E., before we were well aware of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the east south-east. We kept this course till midnight, and then bore away south south-east for the Straits of Banca.

On the 1st of February, at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 1° 20′ N., and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar observations taken in the course of the preceding twelve hours, 105 E. At the same time, the longitude, by Mr. Bayly's timekeeper, corrected, was 105° 15′ E. We now steered south by east; and, at sunset, having fine clear weather, saw Pulo Panjang; the body of the island bearing west north-west, and the small islands, lying on the south-east of it, west half south, seven leagues distant. Our latitude, at this time, was 0° 53' N. On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundings, continued to do the same every hour, till we had passed the straits of Sunda, and found the bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by observation, 0° 22′ S., longitude 105° 14′ E., and our soundings twenty fathoms, we came in sight of the little islands called Dominis, which lie off the eastern part of Lingen; and which bore from north 62° W., to north 80' W., five leagues distant. At this time we passed a great deal of wood drifting on the sea; and, at one o'clock, we saw Pulo Taya, bearing southwest by west, distant seven leagues. It is a small high island, with two round peaks, and two detached rocks lying off it to the northward. When abreast of this island, we had soundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we saw great quantities of a reddishcoloured scum or spawn, floating on the water in a southerly direction. At daylight, on the 3d, we came in sight of the Three Islands; and soon after, of Monopin Hill, on the island of Banca. At noon, this hill, which forms the north-east point of the entrance of the Straits, bore south-east half south, distant six leagues; our latitude, by observation, being 1° 48′ S., and longitude 105° 3' E., the soundings seventeen fathoms, and no perceivable variation in the compass.

Having got to the westward of the shoal called Frederick Endric, at half-past two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the southward; and, in the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due east, we determined its latitude to be 2° 3′ S., the same as in Mons. D'Apres' map, and its longitude 105° 18' E. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca shore, and having rowed round the ships, went away again. We hailed her in the Malay tongue to come on board, but received no answer. At midnight, finding a strong tide against us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing north 29° W. On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing some difficulty in weighing our anchors, owing to the stiff tenacious quality of the ground, we proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we had from the northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect calm, and the tide making against us, we dropt our anchor in thirteen fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on the Sumatra shore; Monopin Hill bearing

N. 54° W. The latitude, by observation, was 2° 22' S., longitude 105° 38′ E. At three in the afternoon, we weighed and stood on through the Straits with a light breeze; and at eight, were abreast of the second point, and passed it within two miles, in seventeen fathoms water, a sufficient proof that this point may be bordered upon with safety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount Permissang, on the island of Banca, bearing N. 7° E., and the First Point S. 54° E, distant about three leagues. In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the south-east; and, at ten, passed a small shoal, lying in a line with Lusepara and the First Point, at the distance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the island of Lusepara, bearing S. 57° E., four miles distant, we determined its latitude to be 3° 10′ S., and longitude 106° 15′ E. The difference of longitude between the island Lusepara, which lies in the south entrance of the Straits of Banca, and Monopin Hill, which forms one side of the entrance from the north, we found to be 55', which is only two miles less than what is given in D'Après' chart.

In passing these Straits, the coast of Sumatra may be approached somewhat closer than that of Banca. At the distance of two or three miles from the shore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks or shoals: however, the lead is the surest guide. The country is covered with wood down to the water's edge, and the shores are so low, that the sea overflows the land, and washes the trunks of the trees. To this flat and marshy situation of the shore, we may attribute those thick fogs and vapours, which we perceived every morning, not without dread and horror, hanging over the island, till they were dispersed by the rays of the sun. The shores of Banca are much bolder, and the country inland rises to a moderate height, and appears to be well wooded throughout. saw fires on this island during the night time; but none on the opposite shore. runs through the Straits at the rate of between two and three knots an hour.

We often

The tide

In the morning of the 6th, we passed to the westward of Lusepara, at the distance of four or five miles; generally carrying soundings of five and six fathoms' water, and never less than four. We afterward steered south by east; and having brought Lusepara to bear due north, and deepened our water to seven fathoms, we altered our course to south by west, keeping the lead going, and hauling out a little, whenever we shoaled our water. The soundings on the Sumatra side we still found to be regular, and gradually shoaling, as we approached the shore. At five in the afternoon we saw the Three Sisters, bearing south by west half west; and, at seven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms, about eight miles to the north of the islands. The weather was close and sultry, with light winds, generally from the north-west; but sometimes varying round as far as the north-east; and, during the night, we observed much lightning over Sumatra. We weighed the next morning at five, and at eight were close in with the Sisters. These are two very small islands, well covered with wood, lying in latitude 5° 0 S., longitude 106° 12′ E., nearly north and south from each other, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks; the whole circumference of which is about four or five miles. At noon we got sight of the island of Java to the southward; the north-west extremity of which (Cape St. Nicholas) bore south; North Island, on the Sumatra shore, S. 27° W., and the Sisters north, 27° E., distant four leagues; our latitude was 5° 21′ S., longitude 105° 57′ E.

At four in the afternoon, we saw two sail in the Straits of Sunda; one lying at anchor near the Midchannel Island; the other nearer the Java shore. Not knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our ships for action; and at six came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, four miles east by south from North Island. Here we lay all night, and had very heavy thunder and lightning to the north-west; from which quarter the wind blew in light breezes, accompanied with hard rain. At eight o'clock the next morning, we weighed, and proceeded through the Straits, the tide setting to the southward, as it had done all night; but about ten the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five fathoms; a high island, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing south by east. We were, at this time, not more than two miles from the ships, which now hoisting Dutch colours, Captain Gore sent a boat on board for intelligence. The rain still continued with thunder and lightning. Early in the afternoon, the boat returned with an account that the large ship was a Dutch East-Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a packet from Batavia,