CHAPTER XI.

TURTLE

AND SPONGE FISHING.

My readers

reference to the

remember my may

gigantic turtle at the capture of which I assisted' by standing on the shore and seeing my brother kill it with his axe. Turtle-shell is another of the valuable products of the Pacific. To put it generally, there are throughout the isles of the great Coral Sea certain laws (varying in detail according to local circumstances) in connection with turtle-fishing. In a majority of the groups whoever sees the turtle first (man or woman) claims the shell. This is valuable to the natives quite apart from the dollars or trade offered by the chance white trader. Articles of domestic use and grotesque ornaments are made of it. Long strips of it cover the seams of their canoes, and of the thickest portion they make ear-rings, fingerrings, bracelets and fish-hooks, spoons and knives. These latter are made from the blade-bones of the turtle, and though clumsy in form are quite as effective for any ordinary purpose as steel knives. They require to be very seldom sharpened, and have

an edge which it would not be wise to run a finger carelessly along.

When a turtle is caught, be it large or small, the flesh is divided among the whole of the inhabitants of the village to which the captors belong, so that in many cases a very small piece comes to the share of each individual. The weight of a full-grown turtle is usually about 450 lbs., but sometimes they weigh as much as 700 lbs. They are profitable to fish for not only on account of the shell, but for the oil which they contain of which a good-sized one will give ten gallons. The trade-price is usually about $1 per gallon.

The natives relish the flesh greatly, and eat it either cooked or raw. It is very much like indifferent beef, and as I have said, the turtle-steaks of the South Pacific are about as disagreeable a dish as I have ever encountered; but everyone has their taste, and perhaps some people like it.

The scientific way of killing a turtle among the islanders, is to strike him on the back of the head with a club; a bundle of dry leaves is then ignited and passed over the shell, so as to loosen the plates, which are pulled off; the under part of the shell is then split from the upper, and the meat is cut up.

In some islands, as used to be the case in Fiji, all turtles are claimed by the king or local chief. In that case, the plates being removed from his back, the animal is put whole into an oven of hot stones and baked. When there are not sufficient to consume the whole carcase

in the royal circle

at one meal, the residue is preserved in a very ingenious manner.

The turtle is baked with his back downwards ; the hollow of the shell is filled with melted fat or oilthis is baled out and taken care of. The meat which is intended to be preserved is cut into pieces of about the size of a man's fist. These are put into cocoa-nut shells, and the oil poured in till the shell is nearly filled; the mouth is closed, and a green leaf tied over it: it is then put away until wanted, when it is again put into an oven and made hot. In this manner turtle-steaks can be preserved for an indefinite time without fear of spoiling.

I am afraid I have reversed the wise counsel of Mrs. Glass, and have been saying how turtles are cooked and preserved before telling my readers how they are caught. I will endeavour to supply the deficiency.

The best plan is to watch for turtle at night. If taken during the day, they are generally surprised asleep on the surface of the water. On these occasions, when the turtle is discovered, it is usual for a few persons to go out to him in a canoe and paddle noiselessly alongside, when they lift him on board before he knows what is going on. They very rarely even attempt to bite, and are perfectly harmless except while floundering about, when they can give a severe blow with their flippers. If a turtle is too heavy for the party, they harpoon him.

During the breeding season turtles are very careless of their safety, and do not try to escape the presence When several turtles are in this state, a

of man.

like number of men having approached them from a canoe, will jump overboard and lay hold of them thus the man gets on the back of the turtle, and takes hold with his hands of the front of the shell just behind the neck. This prevents him from 'sounding,' that is to say, going down headforemost, as a turtle will always do when alarmed if not prevented by the weight of a man on his back. He is now quite helpless, as he has no idea of getting rid of his rider except by diving, and he allows himself to be steered in any direction his captors may choose. Thus he is soon brought alongside the canoe, and hoisted into it without resistance. This seems a very simple bit of sport, but it requires great care. A turtle in water can cut a naked man very dangerously with his flippers, and he must never be taken hold of by his tail. If he is, he will immediately fold his tail to his body, whereby he will hold the man's hand as tight as though it were a vice, and drag him down to the bottom of the sea. Turtles never visit the inside lagoons of islands, unless the entrance is wide and the tide flows freely. They do not like stagnant or warm water, but delight in the fresh spray that dashes on an outer reef. They relish bêche-demer as much as a Chinaman, and in search of these slugs they will frequent the shallow water at the top of the reef. At these times, wherever the male or bull turtle is found, the female is not far away.

By far the greater number of turtle are taken on shore on low sandy beaches (as at Vu-ne-wai Levu), where they resort to lay their eggs during the night. Full moon is always a favourite time with

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them. The female goes on shore, and the male lies out beyond the breakers and watches for his mate. She lands with the high-tide, and returns to sea with the next flood, so she remains ashore several hours. If overtaken by daylight before high water, she will go out to the reef and lie still there waiting for the tide to come in. Thus detained, they are often captured by the natives, as they never attempt to move even when trodden upon by men searching for other fish.

When the turtle lands to lay she goes well up the beach, above highwater mark, frequently under the shadow of trees, and there scratches out a great circular hollow, throwing out the sand with her flippers. As the creature turns herself round and round in the hole it becomes smooth within, like a basin, and about sufficiently deep for the turtle to sink below the level of the surrounding sand. Then in the middle of this pit she digs out a small perpendicular cavity about the depth of a man's arm, and therein deposits her eggs to the number of over a hundred, and filling up the whole excavation, returns to sea. Thus though a turtle, it takes

Native fishers

man may easily find the track of a great experience to discover the eggs. on bright moonlight nights walk round the beach after high tide and look for the signs of turtle, as the animal leaves a broad track on the sand.

If the fisher finds the tracks of a turtle on the sand, but should not succeed in catching it, he will generally know whether the turtle has been lately on shore there before; if not, he will look out again for it on the ninth night from that time, and if it does