order of Philip II., in 1558, in imitation. Effigies in copper, of both father and daughter, repose on these splendid tombs, which are surrounded by heraldic shields richly enamelled, showing the rank and titles of the dead. The Duke is crowned, and decorated with the order of the Golden Fleece. So precious are these monuments that they are constantly kept covered; and at the time of the French occupation they were concealed, by the courage and ingenuity of the beadle of the church.

From the Church of Notre Dame we went to the Hospital of St. John-which is attended by religieuses of the order. These good ladies wear a beautiful, flowing dress of black and white, and are as rosy, well-favored women as need be. Half a dozen of them sat in the shady courtyard stringing beans, when we entered. They have a picture gallery, of which they are not a little glorious, and with reason. There are portraits of the directors, benefactors and saints of the institution, and many valuable and beautiful pictures beside.

But the gem of all is the Reliquary, or Chasse of St. Ursula a sort of tabernacle for the safe-keeping of relics -painted on all its sides by Hans Hemling, with subjects from the legend. In the painting which represents St. Ursula and her maiden train landing at Cologne, a view of that city is given which shows the Cathedral and other well-known objects there; and then we have the saint and her maidens embarking-landing-meeting the Huns, etc., every face individually beautiful, and finished to the last degree of exquisite softness. A shrine of solid silver of the same size has been offered in exchange for this reliquary, but refused, and I think not unwisely. Unless the

institution becomes impoverished I hope they will not sell it for its match in gold. Such paintings are inestimable, since they give an ever new pleasure and can never be replaced.

In the Palais de Justice there is a wooden chimneypiece of the finest workmanship, with several statues in wood, (life-size,) of former sovereigns. Bas-reliefs in marble too, there are, and very beautiful. The whole chimney-piece, indeed the whole room, is most curious and interesting. Even the cast-iron work is in a graceful and elegant style.

We linger at Bruges with a sort of fond delay, for to-morrow sees us turning from this continent, where we have drank so deep of a pleasure not without its deep uses, and not likely ever again to be within our reach. The sun-shine seems to have a sadness in it—a "pathetic light" as says the poet; the town gains a tender beauty from the thought that we are taking leave. So strong is this feeling that we can hardly interest ourselves in particulars. We stood before the Hotel de Ville, so celebrated for its quaint beauty, and remembered how little the drawings we had seen had done it justice. Les Halles, too, and the most picturesque of squares on which it faces, where shall we find their like? From the belfry in the centre come those delicious chimes or carillons which have so long been the admiration of Europe. They say farewell to us; "Farewell-Farewell!"

The train by which we came to Ostend was the longest I ever saw. Half an hour in the softest evening light brought us hither, and the Hotel des Bains received us, we hardly cared how.

In the morning F. took his leave, being about to proceed to Paris by the early train. Well-peace to thee for a plague; honest as any courier, I doubt not, and not totally devoid of heart; but a braggart and a bore by nature, and thoroughly imbued with the spirit of thy craft, which would spoil an angel! I hope one of the early results of the democratic spirit now abroad will be a total abolition of the caste.

THE CHANNEL.

I COULD not but smile to see what prognostics were printed in every face as we went on board the steamer. There was a quietness, a resignation, on the best faces, that was sufficiently comic to the initiated; while the defiant frown assumed by those who wished to pass for old sailors, and were determined not be sea-sick, went a step further, and made one maliciously watch for their discomfiture. There was the Duke d'Aremberg, from Brussels, with a Saxon princess, whom he has lately married the gentleman really gentlemanly-the lady overdressed. They had only a man and maid with them, and evidently desired to be unnoticed. The water was very smooth as long as we hugged the French coast; but as we neared Calais, and struck across for Dover, the vessel took to pitching, and in less than three minutes everybody succumbed. The Princess-Duchess was glad of a mattress on the deck, where she was covered up first in her own shawls, then with a tarpaulin to keep the spray

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off, and lastly with her husband's coat. The Duke was all attention, and the lady repaid him by great suavity, as well as by wearing his picture-something below life size-in her bracelet. A good old clergyman and his daughter leaned against each other in their sickness and sleepiness most piteously; a stout gentleman sat up as straight as possible, plunged his hands deep into his pockets, and shut his eyes for the voyage. These materials being furnished, I leave the finishing of the picture in the hands of the reader.

DOVER.

HERE was custom-housing to be sure!

We were

pounced upon with no respect of persons, and went up like a gang of convicts to the office, where a single official had the handling of our wearables, taking his time, with nobody to help him. This being one of the things out of our sphere, we were taken to the Ship Tavern, and left there to wait and wonder for two mortal hours, before our affairs were settled by the government.

Meanwhile the Ship's company were getting our dinner, which was to be in truth little more than a lunch; for we were intending to go to London in the express train, which starts at four o'clock. Our amusement consisted in looking out upon the same chopping sea which had spoiled our breakfast, or conversing with the waiter; and we chose the latter the more readily, because the in

dividual who sustained that character was the very image of those we see in Punch. We asked this worthy man, with a large head and very short legs, many questions about Dover, all of which he answered with alacrity, seeming proud of the opportunity of giving his town a pleasant place in our memory. "There's a many that comes down for the bathing, Mem; very nice peoplecarriage people, Mem!" O, ineffable Dover waiter! shall I ever forget the look with which that assurance was given?

We got off with a pound sterling of duty at the custom-house, besides the loss of a Brussels edition of Byron which had been innocently left on the top of one of the trunks. Not feeling very complacent under this spoliation, we sat down to our dinner at the Ship, which consisted of a leather beef-steak both burned and half-coldthree small potatoes, and as many green beans as could have been taken up in a single table-spoon. The dessert to this was a very sour plum-tart, hardly eatable. The bill was brought-thirteen shillings sterling!

"Remember the waiter, sir!"

"Yes, indeed, I shall remember the waiter a long while, and the house, too!" And so we took our leave of Dover and its famous Ship Hotel, against which we conscientiously warn all our travelling countrymen.

Two hours' time brought us to London, and we were soon seated in our Norfolk street parlor, intent on letters from home.