drive on the bank of the Lake, in the direction of Vevay, and a social visit, which I made by favor of some English friends whom we rejoined here. The drive carried me back to England; for, although there is no Leman there -no Mont Blanc within sight-yet the road, and the villas near Geneva, are wholly English in their appearance, and we were taken to an English country-seat which might have been transported bodily and set down in Devonshire, without a suspicion of foreign origin. The summer house of Lola Montes is near this place, and that conspicuous person often appears in a boat on the lake, but in a very quiet way.

I was hospitably entertained in the evening, at the house of a distinguished and most amiable familyfriends of our friends; and much pleased to observe the hearty and simple tone of manners, and the intelligent appreciation of the true ends of social intercourse, conspicuous in this household. Voltaire said of Geneva, "Here one finds the politeness of Athens joined to the simplicity of Lacedemon." It was evident, in this case, that the enjoyment of wealth was unconnected with any purpose of display, and that accomplishments were acquired for the sake of their best uses. I was delighted with this specimen of Genevan manners, which seemed to me made up of some of the best French, German and English characteristics. A young American from the South was among the guests.

The houses in the old part of the town, reminded one strikingly of Italy. Here was one which we entered by a stone stair, and which was occupied in flats or pianos, by different families. The only difference I observed was

that the common stair was lighted—which it never is at Rome. The streets are narrow, but tolerably clean; and from the position of the town, some of them are so much higher than others, that you look down from the pavé upon roofs and trees below.

TOWARDS BALE.

SHOPPING and writing letters so occupied us till the last moment, that we narrowly escaped being left by the steamer for Lausanne. We flew over the Rhone bridge, at a rate that must have flagged if the steamer had lain an inch further off, and just touched the deck as the plank was removed. No very creditable commencement of our journey towards the Rhine.

There was a conjuror on board who played all sorts of tricks with eggs and rings, carrots and pocket handkerchiefs; and some musicians who played the harp and sang. But it was melancholy business, for none of the passengers seemed to care, any more than if they had been Americans; and I fear our artists found their trip but poorly rewarded. Our friend the clergyman was here again, with his boys and their basket of dogs; a Spanish lady sat on the deck and smoked a cigar; we admired the lake as in duty bound; saw Coppet with its four towers; and were not sorry when the boat touched Ouchy-the port of Lausanne, for truth to say, the trip was a little tedious. A steamer is not exactly what one would choose for the pleasure of a sail on Lake Leman, and for my own

part, every sight, sound and smell about a steamer, is always and everywhere odious to me.

A toiling drive, up a long hill, from Ouchy to Lausanne, where dinner was ready at the Hotel Gibbon-on the spot on which the great history was finished. A portrait of the ugliest man that ever was seen hangs over the mantelpiece, claiming to be the "counterfeit presentment" of this writer of mellifluous periods-one can hardly believe it. At least, such a picture of such a man, would lead to the supposition that moral, rather than intellectual qualities mould the face in the course of time -corresponding with Swedenborg's doctrine of the permanent aspect of the spiritual body.

Yverdun was the residence of Pestalozzi, and is moreover situated in the midst of the charming scenery of the Pays de Vaud. The hotel at which we stopped is a queer old place, more Italian than Swiss in its appearance, though not in its arrangements. The moment we alighted, the tall host lighted two as tall wax candles, and preceded us upstairs, in the orthodox way, meaning to charge one franc per candle though we should burn but an inch. These candle-tricks have afforded us no little amusement; and we have sometimes set our wits at work to counteract the manoeuvres of the maitre d'hotel or the landlord, who in this Jewish way gets paid half a dozen times for the same candle. Sometimes we immediately blow out one of each pair; sometimes burn them. as long as we like, and then gravely put the remains in our carpet-bags in the morning, in order that we may have a double supply without extra cost at the next lodging-place-nobody daring to object, as the whole candle

is paid for. When we sit down to write our journals, we thus have a grand array of light, doubtless to the great astonishment of our entertainers. We have proposed publishing these journals with the title of "Candle-Ends, or Light-Reading," in memory of the resolute ingenuity with which we have withstood this petty imposition-grumbled against by all travellers, but usually submitted to.

But we are at Yverdun, and there is to be a fête to-morrow, and they are trying all the bells and guns in the town, in preparation, like the ear-splitting tuning before a concert. This town is situated on a plain, at the southern extremity of the Lake of Neuchâtel, but not directly on the shore of the lake. A loaded vessel is said to have passed directly through this town in the heart of Switzerland, to the London docks; by the Lakes of Neuchâtel and Bienne, and the windings of the Aar and Rhine.

It

The first thing we saw at Neuchâtel was the gymnasium, with which the name of Agassiz is connected. is a large and elegant building, surrounded by a garden, and like the other public edifices of this beautiful town, evincing great care as well as taste on the part of the inhabitants. There is a fund for the improvement of the town, and the amusement and cultivation of its inhabitants; the interest of which, amounting to a hundred thousand dollars annually, is expended upon the public buildings, walks, improvements and exhibitions, and lectures of various kinds. We spent Sunday there, and saw the place under its best aspect, the well-dressed inhabitants thronging the streets and public walks, and everything

bespeaking social order and general prosperity. The Cathedral, which is now accommodated to the wants of Protestant worship, is interesting from its antiquity and many venerable relics, scrupulously cared for by the inhabitants. It has just been undergoing repairs, and some curious effigies of Count, I forget who, and his wife, or wives and daughters, have been freshly painted, which gives them at first glance a look of life in their niches that is quite startling. This is a most characteristic mediæval specimen-the Count having the air of a warrior-noble, and the ladies all the delicacy and submissive grace which the chivalric idea of female perfection required. The Church is otherwise much ornamented with grotesque carvings and coats of arms. It is beautiful outwardly, and stands above the town on a fine plateau level with the castle, which is its near neighbor. Both look out upon a lovely terrace, rich with ancient trees, and commanding one of the most magnificent views of the Leman and the mountains beyond, that we have yet seen. We lingered long on this terrace, looking now at the distant prospect-now at a very ancient tower on the wooded slope just below us-now on the castle garden, and over the battlemented wall, sheer down to a street some hundred feet below. Oh, these towns built on hill-sides-how much more beautiful are they than those over which the crushing roller of utilitarianism has passed, annihilating all that can gratify the natural taste for variety!

The castle is a fine old place, well-preserved but showing no restorations. It has a hall of shields, like Chillon; and an ancient kitchen and refectory, with many anti