I am surprised to find I can already go about all day without remembering to look at Vesuvius, which is in sight all the time.

We went in the afternoon to Capodimonte, the King's summer palace, surely one of the loveliest spots on earth's bosom. It is situated on the very summit of the elevation which overlooks Naples, the Bay, the mountains,including the three peaks of Vesuvius,―the fortresses which overhang the city and those which defend the harbor; the islands in the distance and the Mediterranean still beyond. The palace is vast in extent, and placed in the midst of a garden in the English style, which makes the most of the natural beauty of the position. The interior is both splendid and tasteful, but not being rich in pictures or statuary, did not detain us long from the balcony, where we could never be satisfied with looking. The billiard-room is immense and richly furnished; the maces and cues being fantastically carved, and inlaid with ivory. One of the bedrooms is furnished with articles from China; another in Indian lackered ware, etc. One room exhibits the presents sent by various crowned heads to the Queen and her family, some of them only pretty toys for children, others rich and costly bijouterie, sets of Sevres china, and gold and silver ornaments, all alike locked in glass cases, shop-fashion.

As we came down into the town again, through the Toledo, a violent shower came on-one of the heaviest rains I ever saw, and we were obliged to seek such shelter as we could find. I was amused to see, as soon as it was over, people running with little wooden bridges, which they offered to the passers-by for crossing the torrent-like gutters which went roaring down the street for a while,

expecting a baioc' in return, like our crossing-sweepers. We went on the Chiaja, indescribably lovely after the shower, which had been much needed.

ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.

THURSDAY, TO HERCULANEUM.-We stopped on the way at a macaroni factory, where the people were very civil, and showed us the whole process, which is curious and pretty. We were as much amused as ever at the various aspects and occupations of the crowd by the way. I do not know how many stout fellows we saw fast asleep on the tops of low walls, or down in the sand under them, with hardly any clothes on. People seem to be independent of both covering and shelter in this climate, and to find something to eat without working for it.

The entrance to the scavi at Herculaneum is through the dirtiest of domestic scenes, half under-ground, where a slattern mother presides over a household which only she and such as she could endure. Her son, a decently dressed young man, showed the way down into the excavations, and I thought rather blushed for the maternal nest, but perhaps that was only fancy. I went down the long flight of steps which leads to the Theatre, but remembering my ague, ran up again, as it was so excessively damp. Each member of the party carried a wax taper.

I waited about twenty minutes in the domestic den, where children, chickens, cat, dog, vegetables, fish and dirt, were all in confused jumble, so that the only distinguishable entity was the mistress, who moved about amid

After

all this with a gracious calmness quite enviable. wards we went by a narrow and very filthy lane to some other excavations, which are like those of Pompei, open to the air and light. These are quite interesting, and we had a most zealous cicerone, who was not willing we should see less than everything. We plucked some roses, and admired the fine rows of columns in perfect preservation, but did not stay long, for there is great sameness in these things.

When we returned to Naples, we went to a shop near the Hotel de Russie, to see some models of the ruins of Pæstum, in wood, in terra cotta, in cork, and in rosso antico-very beautiful, but very dear. That in rosso antico or dark red marble, beautifully wrought and polished, cost a thousand dollars-one in softer material three or four hundred. We bought some vases and other things in terra cotta, designed after the bronzes found in Pompei and Herculaneum.

In the afternoon we set out a little earlier than usual to make time for seeing Baiæ, Cumæ, Lake Avernus, etc. We expected our principal pleasure from the drive, for sueh a tour, on such a day, offers so much in the mere face of Nature, that the mind is filled rather with pleasure than with curiosity. The sea was of a dazzling blue; the rocky heights on our right, between which and the shore our route lay, shaded our path for much of the way; the shore was all alive with people and children; the far islands were hung with silver gauze, through which we could see their beautiful outlines and their softened greens; the road of the most perfect smoothness, and F. silent-it was too delicious!

The view presented as we advance, is one which can

never be forgotton. Cape Misenum is before us, stretching far out into the sea from the Elysian Fields, over which we can see the Island of Procida. At the east, the small fortified island of Nisida; then Baiæ and her ruined temples and castle; nearer to us the heights of Solfatara; and round all the beautiful sea, with boats and large vessels giving interest to its wide expanse-it is enough to make one forget everything but Rome-and home.

In approaching Avernus we pass Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill which rose from the earth in a single nighta bare, brown-looking eminence, which looks as if it intended to sink back again in due time. The lake is full of interest, with the single drawback of an obstinate doubt whether this insignificant piece of water can indeed be that of whose depth and mysterious importance we have heard so much. It is surrounded by hills, verifying the proverb of easy descent; and the verdure on all sides is so luxuriant and the place so quiet, that it would not require an Italian imagination to fancy it the portal to some unknown world. Here was placed Homer's city of the Cimmerians, and the fabled entrance of Hell. On one side are magnificent remains of a Temple of Proserpine, who probably liked to have a summer residence thus near the borders of her own dominions. The people of the neighborhood still believe that no bird flies over this lake of enchantments, but all I can say is that I did not see any.

The grotto of the Cumaan Sybil opens not far from the borders of the lake. We turned off to the left through a thicket path, and came to a little cleared space at the mouth of the cave, where were guides waiting, with great torches,

six feet long, or so, made of pine, rosin, hemp, and other combustibles, which they lighted, and then went flaring in before us, scattering black, oily flakes on every side. After descending for some distance we reached a branch opening on the right, which leads to the penetralia of the prophetess, and this path being covered with water to the depth of two or three feet, it is necessary for those who will try the spell to be carried in on men's shoulders. This we ladies declined, though we were politely urged to the exploit by our guides, who were most disinterestedly anxious that we should not return to our far homes without having seen all that is to be seen.

The top of the cave being completely blackened with the smoke of torches, the adventurous portion of our party returned well smutched, and having seen just nothing but a cave half full of water. It is said that a subterranean passage extended quite through to Cumæ, by which the emperors used to come privately for consultation with the Sybil a tradition which it is quite as easy to believe as that the wise lady lived in this dripping den. When Eneas came hither for advice, perhaps the place was in habitable condition, being just over the infernal fires, which would naturally keep it dry, at least.

We came out upon Avernus again, well-pleased with our visit of exploration, though we had seen nothing; for after all there is an unaccountable charm about these things. We drove around by the shore to the Baths of Nero, to which we ascended from the edge of the bay by a steep, rocky path. Here was another cave, large and high at the entrance, and branching off in various directions, no one of which branches one can follow far, on