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The principal trees thereabouts are the ana and the giraffethorn (acacia giraffa); and the chief herbage, a species of sand-reed, which is much relished by the cattle when once accustomed to it; but more especially by horses, mules, and donkeys, which thrive and fatten wonderfully on this diet.

During our stay at Scheppmansdorf, we were the constant guests of Mr. and Mrs. Bam, but we felt almost sorry to trespass on a hospitality that we knew they could ill afford; for it was only once in every two years that they received their supplies from the Cape, and then only in sufficient. quantities for their own families. The genuine sincerity, however, with which it was offered, over-ruled all scruples.

Mr. Bam had long been a dweller in various parts of Great Namaqua-land.1 His present residence, however, in this its western portion, was of comparatively recent date. Although he had used every effort to civilize and christianize his small community, all his endeavours had hitherto proved nearly abortive; but as we become acquainted with the character of the Namaquas, who are partially-civilized Hottentots, the wonder ceases; and we discover that they possess every vice of savages, and none of their noble qualities. So long as they are fed and clothed, they are willing enough to congregate round the missionary, and to listen to his exhortation. The moment, however, the food and clothing are discontinued, their feigned attachment to his person and to his doctrines, is at an end, and they do not scruple to treat their benefactor with ingratitude, and load him with abuse.

The missionary is more or less dependent on his own resources. Such assistance as he obtains from the natives is so trivial, and procured with so much trouble, that it is often

The southern limit of Great Namaqua-land is, at the present moment, the Orange River. To the north, it is bounded by Damara-land, or by about the twenty-second degree of south latitude.

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gladly dispensed with. The good man is his own architect, smith, wheel-wright, tinker, gardener, &c., whilst his faithful spouse officiates as nurse, cook, washerwoman, and so forth. Occasionally, to get the drudgery off their hands, they adopt some poor boy and girl, who, after they have been taught with infinite labour to make themselves useful, and have experienced nothing but kindness, will often leave their protectors abruptly, or, what is nearly as bad, become lazy and indolent.

A Namaqua, it would appear, is not able to appreciate kindness, and no word in his language, as far as I can remember, is expressive of gratitude! The same is the case, as I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, with their northern neighbours, the Damaras, and though a sad, it is, nevertheless, a true picture.

When waggons were first introduced into Great Namaqualand, they caused many conjectures, and much astonishment among the natives, who conceived them to be some gigantic animal possessed of vitality. A conveyance of this kind, belonging to the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, once broke down, and was left sticking in the sand. One day a Bushman came to the owner, and said that he had seen his 'pack-ox' standing in the desert for a long time, with a broken leg; and, as he did not observe it had any grass, he was afraid that it would soon die of hunger unless taken away!

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SCHEPPMANSDORF-AN INFURIATED OX-THE NAARIP PLAIN-THE
SCARLET FLOWER THE USAB GORGE -THE SWAKOP RIVER
TRACKS OF RHINOCEROS SEEN ANECDOTE OF THAT ANIMAL- A
SUNRISE IN THE TROPICS-SUFFERINGS FROM HEAT AND THIRST-
ARRIVAL AT DAVIEP: GREAT RESORT OF LIONS-A HORSE AND MULE
KILLED BY THEM THE AUTHOR GOES IN PURSUIT — A TROOP OF
LIONS-UNSUCCESSFUL CHASE-MULES' FLESH PALATABLE.

MR. GALTON had now so far altered his plans, that instead of proceeding up the country, with only one-half of his party, for the purchase of cattle, it was arranged that we should make the journey together. The waggons, and the bulk of our effects, were to be left at Scheppmansdorf, and we were only to take with us some few articles of exchange, a small quantity of provisions, and a moderate supply of ammunition.

Finding, however, that the cart could not conveniently hold all our baggage, though now reduced to the smallest quantity possible, it was resolved to pack a portion on oxen. These animals, on account of their great hardihood, are invaluable in South Africa; the more so, as they can be equally well used for draught, the 'pack,' or the 'saddle.' But as we had no cattle trained for either of these purposes,

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and only one or two were procurable at the missionary station, we were necessitated, prior to our departure thence, to break in a few. No easy matter, by the by; for oxen are of a wild and stubborn disposition, and it requires months to make them tractable. We were, however, totally at a loss how to set to work.

But fortunately, at this time, Mr. Galton had engaged a Mr. Stewardson, tailor by profession, but now 'jack of all trades,' to accompany us up the country in the capacity of cicerone, &c.; and as this man, from long residence amongst the Hottentots, was thoroughly conversant with the mysteries of ox-breaking, to him, therefore, we deputed the difficult task.

At the end of a 'riem,' or long leather thong, a pretty large noose is made, which is loosely attached to, or rather suspended from, the end of a slight stick some five or six feet in length. With this stick in his hand, a man, under shelter of the herd, stealthily approaches the ox selected to be operated on. When sufficiently near, he places the noose (though at some little distance from the ground) just in advance of the hind feet of the animal; and, when the latter steps into it, he draws it tight. The instant the ox finds. himself in the toils, he makes a tremendous rush forward; but, as several people hold the outer end of the 'riem,' he in sailor language is quickly brought up.' The force of the check is, indeed, such as often to capsize one or more of the men. He now renews his efforts; he kicks, foams, bellows; and his companions, at first startled, return and join in chorus; the men shout, the dogs bark furiously, and the affair becomes at once dangerous and highly exciting. The captured animal not unfrequently grows frantic with rage and fear, and turns upon his assailant, when the only chance of escape is to let go the hold of the 'riem.' Usually

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he soon exhausts himself by his own exertions, when one or two men instantly seize him by the tail-another thong having also been passed round his horns; and, by bringing the two to bear in exactly opposite directions, or, in other words, by using the two as levers at a right-angle with his body, he is easily brought to the ground. This being once effected, the tail is passed between his legs and held forcibly down over his ribs, and the head is twisted on one side, with the horns fixed in the ground. A short, strong stick, of peculiar shape, is then forced through the cartilage of the nose; and to either end of this stick is attached (in bridle fashion) a thin, tough leathern thong. From the extreme tenderness of the nose, he is now more easily managed; but, if he is still found very vicious, he is either packed in his prostrate position, or fastened with his head to a tree, whilst two or three persons keep the 'riem' tight about his legs, so as to prevent him from turning round, or injuring any person with his feet. For the 'packing,' however, a more common and convenient plan is to secure him between two tame oxen, with a person placed outside each of these animals.

For the first day or two, only a single skin, or empty bag, is put on his back, which is firmly secured with a thong, eighty to ninety feet in length (those employed by the Namaquas, for the same purpose, are about twice as long); but bulk, as well as weight, is daily added; and though he kicks and plunges violently and sometimes with such effect as to throw off his pack-the ox soon becomes more tractable. Strange enough, those who show the most spirit in the beginning, are often the first subdued. But an ox that lies down, when in the act of 'packing' him, generally proves the most troublesome. Indeed, not one in ten that does so is fit for anything.

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