RETURN TO SCHMELEN'S HOPE.

141

The next day, in the more open parts of the country, we met with a very great abundance of a kind of sweet berry, about the size of peas, which afforded us a delicious feast.

Early in the morning of the sixth day we found ourselves back at Schmelen's Hope, having been sixty hours on the move, or, at an average, twelve hours daily. Allowing three miles per hour at the lowest estimation, we had gone over a tract of country fully one hundred and eighty miles in extent, the greater part of which, moreover, had been performed on foot. Under ordinary circumstances, we should, perhaps, have thought nothing of the performance; but, what with bad living, previous long rest, and so forth, we were in poor condition for such sudden and severe exertions. Indeed, before we were at the journey's end, both man and beast were completely knocked up.

The object, however, had been gained. We had ascertained that the country, for several days' journey, was tolerably open and traversable for waggons; that grass abounded ; and that (the most important point of all) we should be sure of water for ourselves and cattle.

No time was now lost in making ready for a final start. An American, who had long been in Mr. Hahn's service, was about to travel to the Cape by land. Although the journey was supposed to last at least six or seven months, communication was so rare in these parts that we deemed it advisable to benefit by it. Letters were accordingly written to friends and acquaintances, as also despatches for the British Government at the Cape.

CHAPTER XIII.

DEPART FROM SCHMELEN'S HOPE-MEETING WITH KAHICHENE OXEN

STOLEN SUMMARY JUSTICE

FRIEND-SINGULAR

SUPERSTITION

MEETING AN OLD
CUSTOM-GLUTTONY OF THE DAMARAS-HOW

THEY EAT FLESH BY THE YARD AND NOT BY THE POUND-SUPER-
STITIOUS CUSTOM-A NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL-THE AUTHOR LOSES

HIS

WAY-RAVAGES

OF THE TERMITES-' WAIT A BIT, IF YOU

PLEASE-MAGNIFICENT FOUNTAIN-REMAINS OF DAMARA VILLAGES
-HORRORS OF WAR-MEET BUSHMEN-MEET DAMARAS-DIFFICUL-
TIES ENCOUNTERED BY AFRICAN TRAVELLERS REACH THE LAKE
OMANBONDÈ CRUEL DISAPPOINTMENT.

ON the morning of the 3rd of March, we left Schmelen's Hope. The alternately rugged and sandy nature of the soil, the embarrassing thorn-coppices, and the stubbornness and viciousness of the oxen, rendered our progress at first very slow and tedious.

On the fifth day, we arrived at a splendid vley, called Kotjiamkombè. From the branches of the trees and bushes which lined the sides of this piece of water, were suspended innumerable graceful and fanciful nests of the well-known weaver-bird species. The rank grasses and reeds afforded shelter to a great variety of water-fowl,

some of which were gorgeously plumaged. Here we found Kahichenè waiting to receive us; he had already announced his intention to visit us, and, in order to propitiate our favour, had, a few days previously, forwarded us a present of several head of cattle. The chief was accompanied by about forty of his people, who, taking them as a whole, were the finest body of men I have ever seen before or since. Yet they were all arrant knaves. Kahichenè told them as much in our presence; but, strange to say, they were not in the least abashed.

This tribe had, at one time, been the richest, the most numerous, and the most powerful in the country; but what with their own civil broils, and the exterminating wars with the Namaquas, they had gradually dwindled to about twentyfive villages, with, perhaps, ten or fifteen thousand head of horned-cattle.1

Notwithstanding Kahichenè, in former days, had committed many depredations against his neighbours, we could not help liking him. In a very short time, he had thoroughly ingratiated himself in our favour. Indeed, he was the only Damara, whether high or low, for whom we entertained any regard. Perhaps, also, his late misfortunes had ensured our sympathy. With the missionaries, Kahichenè had always been a very great favourite, and they looked upon him as the stepping-stone to the future civilization of Damaraland; but we have already seen how far this was realized.

Kahichenè was somewhat advanced in years; but his deportment was dignified and courteous. He was, moreover, truthful and courageous-rare virtues amongst his countrymen. It would have been well had the rest of the nation at all resembled this chief.

1

Previously to my leaving Africa, I learnt that the entire tribe had been broken

up.

Kahichenè was, at this period, at variance with a very warlike and powerful tribe of Damaras, under the rule of Omugundè, or rather his son, whom he represented as a man degraded by every vice, and particularly inimical towards strangers. We, of course, made due allowances, as our friend was speaking of his mortal enemy; but the account so terrified our men, that three of them begged to be dismissed, and they could only be persuaded to discontinue their solicitation by our promising them not to pass through the territory of the hostile chief.

On one occasion, some cattle, belonging to Mr. Hahn, had been stolen by a party of Omugundè's men. Remonstrances being made, they were, after a time, returned, but minus their tails, which were cut off by the natives, and kept by them as 'trophies.'

In conflict with Omugundè, several of Kahichenè's children had been killed, and one or two had unfortunately fallen alive into the hands of the enemy. These were kept as prisoners. Only one stripling was now left to solace Kahichenè in his old age. He informed us that he had made up his mind to try to recover his offspring and his property, or to die in the attempt. At first, he appeared anxious for our assistance; but, on mature consideration, he generously refused any interference on our part in his behalf. "For," said he, "when once the war begins, there is no saying when or where it will end. The whole country will be in an uproar; much blood will be shed; and it would involve you in endless difficulties and dangers." He, moreover, strongly endeavoured to persuade us from proceeding northwards at all; but, in that matter, he, of course, failed.

We had only been a short time at Kochiamkombè, when it was discovered that four of our best draught-oxen were stolen by some stranger Damaras. On being informed

SUMMARY JUSTICE.

145

of this theft, Kahichenè became exceedingly annoyed, and even distressed, as he considered us under his special protection. He immediately dispatched men on their tracks, with strict orders to recover the oxen, and, if possible, to bring back the thieves. They succeeded in re-capturing all the beasts but one, which the natives had slain and eaten. With regard to the fate of the rogues, we could never ascertain anything with certainty. We were, however, strongly inclined to think they were all killed — the more so, as Kahichenè himself told us, that in case of their capture, they ought to be punished with death, and coolly suggested hanging as the most eligible way of ridding the world of such scoundrels. We, of course, took the liberty to remonstrate with the chief upon the severity of this measure; but with little or no effect. Indeed, one man was accidentally found, at a distance from our camp, in a horribly mangled state; and, on being brought to us, he stated, that he himself, together with several of his friends, were driving away the cattle, when they were overtaken by Kahichenè's men, who immediately attacked them with their kieries, and only left them when they thought life was extinct. He had, however, partially recovered; but was completely naked, having, as is usual on similar occasions, been stripped of every article of dress. The exterior of his body was nearly covered with blood. The head was almost double its natural size; indeed, it resembled rather a lump of mashed flesh; no particular feature could be distinguished, and his eyes were effectually hidden from view. The sight altogether was hideous.

Instead of proceeding due north, as was originally proposed, it was found necessary, in order to avoid Omugundè, to make a considerable détour to the westward. As Kahichenè with his tribe, was encamped in that direction, he invited us to take his werft by the way, to which we cordially as

L