1 12 SAIL FOR WALFISCH BAY. This route was ultimately adopted by us; but, as vessels only frequented Walfisch Bay once or twice in the course of every two years, Mr. Galton at once chartered a small schooner, named the Foam, the sixth part of the expense of which was defrayed by the missionaries referred to, who were anxious, not only to forward some supplies, but to obtain a passage for a young member of their society, the Rev. Mr. Schöneberg, who was about proceeding on a mission of peace and good-will into Damara-land. As our plans were now so entirely changed, and as we were about to travel through an almost unknown region, we thought it expedient to disencumber ourselves of whatever could, in any way, be spared. We left, accordingly, at the Cape, amongst other things, two of our boats; taking with us, however, the other, a mackintosh punt, as being light and portable, hoping some day or other to see her floating on the waters of the Ngami. Our arrangements being finished, and the goods, &c., shipped, we unfurled our sails on the 7th of August, and bade farewell to Cape-Town, where, during our short stay, we had experienced much kindness and hospitality. CHAPTER II. ARRIVAL AT WALFISCH BAY-SCENERY-HARBOUR DESCRIBED-WANT FISH -WILD FOWL OF WATER-CAPABILITIES FOR TRADE IN the afternoon of the 20th of August, we found ourselves safely anchored at the entrance of Walfisch Bay. From the prevalence of southerly winds, this voyage seldom occu VIEW OF WALFISCH BAY. pies more than a week; but, on the present occasion, we were double that time performing it. The first appearance of the coast, as seen from Walfisch 14 SCENERY. HARBOUR DESCRIBED. Bay, is little calculated to inspire confidence in the traveller about to penetrate into the interior. A desert of sand, bounded only by the horizon, meets the eye in every quarter, assuming, in one direction, the shape of dreary flats-in another, of shifting hillocks; whilst, in some parts, it rises almost to the height of mountains. Walfisch Bay has been long known to Europeans, and was once hastily surveyed by Commodore Owen, of the Royal Navy. It is a very spacious, commodious, and comparatively safe harbour, being on three sides protected by a sandy shore. The only winds to which it is exposed, are N. and N.W.; but these, fortunately, are not of frequent occurrence. Its situation is about N. and S. The anchorage is good. Large ships take shelter under the lee of a sandy peninsula, the extremity of which is known to navigators by the name of 'Pelican Point.' Smaller craft, however, ride safely within less than half a mile of the shore. The great disadvantage of Walfisch Bay is that no fresh water can be found near the beach; but, at a distance of three miles inland, abundance may be obtained, as also good pasturage for cattle. I mention this circumstance, as being essential to the establishment of any cattle-trade in future. During the time the guano trade flourished on the west coast of Africa, Walfisch Bay was largely resorted to by vessels of every size, chiefly with a view of obtaining fresh provisions. At that period, certain parties from the Cape had an establishment here for the salting and curing of beef. They, moreover, furnished the guano-traders, as, also, Cape Town, with cattle; and had, in addition, a contract with the British Government for supplying St. Helena with live stock. The latter speculation proved exceedingly lucrative for a time, and a profit of many hundred per cent. was said to be realized. From some mismanagement, however, the contract for St. Helena was thrown up by the Government, and the parties in question were fined a large sum of money for its nonfulfilment. Shortly afterwards, the establishment was broken up, and, for several years, the house and store remained unoccupied. But they are now again tenanted by people belonging to merchants from Cape-Town. Walfisch Bay affords an easy and speedy communication with the interior. By the late explorations of Mr. Galton and myself, in that quarter, we have become acquainted with many countries previously unknown, or only partially explored, to which British commerce might easily be extended. Walfisch Bay and the neighbourhood abounds with fish of various kinds: at certain seasons, indeed, it is much frequented by a number of the smaller species of whale, known by the name of humpbacks,' which come here to breed. Several cargoes of oil, the produce of this fish, have been already exported. At the inner part of the harbour, a piece of shallow water extends nearly a mile into the interior, and is separated from the sea, on the west side, by Pelican Point. This lagoon teems with various kinds of fish; and, at low water, many, that have lingered behind, are left sprawling helplessly in the mud. At such times, the natives are frequently seen approaching; and, with a gemsbok's horn, affixed to a slender stick, they transfix their finny prey at leisure. Even hyænas and jackals seize such opportunities to satisfy their hunger.. Walfisch Bay is frequented by immense numbers of water fowl, such as geese, ducks, different species of cormorants, pelicans, flamingoes, and countless flocks of sand-pipers. But, as the surrounding country is everywhere open, they are difficult of approach. Nevertheless, with 16 ARCTIC DUCK. MIRAGE. a little tact and experience, tolerably good sport may be obtained, and capital rifle-practice at all times. Hardly any of the water-fowl breed here. Every morning, at daybreak, myriads of flamingoes, pelicans, cormorants, &c., are seen moving from their roosting-places, in and about the bay, and flying in a northerly direction. About noon, they begin to return to the southern portion of the bay, and continue arriving there,. in an almost continuous stream, until nightfall. The way in which the 'duikers' (cormorants and shags) obtain their food is not uninteresting. Instead of hovering over their prey, as the gull, or waiting quietly for it in some secluded spot, like the king-fisher, they make their attacks in a noisy and exciting manner. Mr. Lloyd, in his 'Scandinavian Adventures,' has given a very interesting account of the manner in which the Arctic duck (harelda glacialis. Steph.) procures its food; and, as it applies to the birds. above named, I cannot do better than quote him on the subject. "The hareld is a most restless bird," says he, "and perpetually in motion. It rarely happens that one sees it in a state of repose during the day time. The flock-for there are almost always several in company-swim pretty fast against the wind; and the individuals comprising it keep up a sort of race with each other. Some of the number are always diving; and, as these remain long under water, and their comrades are going rapidly a-head in the meanwhile, they are, of course, a good way behind the rest on their re-appearance at the surface. Immediately on coming up, therefore, they take wing, and, flying over the backs of their comrades, resume their position in the ranks, or rather fly somewhat beyond their fellows, with the object, as it would seem, of being the foremost of the party. This fre |