foundation of the temple; but as the name of Osirtasen I., the Pharaoh who ruled Egypt in the days of Joseph, or earlier, as Osburn thinks, has been found on some prostrate columns, near what was the sanctuary, it proves that we have here not only the oldest building in Thebes, but ruins which carry us back about three thousand six hundred years. Later kings added the obelisks and the chambers near the sanctuary. Thothmes III., in whose reign the Exodus took place, "made large additions to the buildings and sculptures, as well in the vicinity of the sanctuary as in the back part of the great enclosure; where the columnar edifice (to the south-east), the side chambers, and all the others in that direction, were added by his orders." Subsequently, Osirei, a great conqueror, and his son Rameses II., probably the far-famed Sesostris, beautified and enlarged the bounds of the temple; the former added the grand hall, just mentioned, and the latter caused to be designed and executed very many of those striking sculptures on the north-east side, which illustrate the extent and variety of his martial achievements. The son of Rameses II. continued the work begun by his illustrious father, and built the area in front, with massive propyla, preceded by granite colossi, and an avenue of Sphinxes: and succeeding monarchs adding still more and more, the several edifices by degrees became united in one grand whole, connected either by avenues of Sphinxes or by crude brick enclosures. After the time of Cambyses, B.C. 525, who manifested such intensity of rage against the monuments and temples of Egypt, some other but less important additions were made, and various repairs and sculptures were introduced as late as the last ages of Egyptian independence. Ptolemy Lathyrus, however,

B.C. 116, exasperated against the rebellious citizens of Thebes, appears to have done this ancient city greater injury than even the Persian conqueror; and, as we are informed, reduced it to so deplorable a state, that it "no longer deserved a rank among the cities of Egypt." Since that period it has gradually sunk into insignificance.

With unwilling steps we turned our faces backward to Cairo, and in three days more we were again at Alexandria. Here we found the "North Star" awaiting us, and the captain very impatient. I need not tell of the overland trip to Constantinople, which Mr. Howard took with the mules and horses he had purchased, because I did not accompany him, it being decided that he should remain some time in the East, in order to carry out the contract Captain Billingsley had undertaken. With a fair wind and the steam well up, we again made our way through the Mediterranean, and in about two months from the time we left Egypt, we again landed in dear old England.

CHAPTER IV.

I GO UP THE RHINE, AND SEE MONT BLANC.

N my return home, I had plenty to tell of Egypt and the Mediterranean, and was never tired of talking of the grand sights I had seen in the East. The "North Star" being again taken up by the government as a transport, I did not feel much inclined to go over the same route again, especially as Captain Bil

lingsley informed us that he was likely to be for some time employed in the rather dull work of carrying stores backwards and forwards between Constantinople and Balaklava. It was therefore arranged that, for this voyage at least, our kinsman the Captain should find some other storekeeper; and I was not at all sorry for this, as I had heard my father say he was likely to go to Germany in the ensuing summer, in which case either my mother would stay at home with me, or we should both accompany him up the Rhine.

The autumn came, and was followed by the winter, which

in turn gave place to the lovely spring, before I heard any more of the proposed Rhine trip; and I began to fear that it was given up. At last, one day in May, my father came hurriedly home and said he was hungry, but had not much time to eat, as he was going out again presently. Dinner was soon served, and when my father sat down he said: :

"Well, Rosa-well, Ernest; do you think you can get ready for Germany by Friday?"

"And to-day Tuesday," said my mother, doubtfully.

"And to-day Tuesday," said my father, laughingly. "What do you say, Ernest?"

"Oh, Friday by all means, even if to-day were Thursday," I exclaimed, joyfully.

"But do you really mean to start on Friday?" asked my mother.

"By General Steam Navigation Company's good ship 'Fairy,' for Antwerp direct, at 9 A.M.," replied my father, with an exactness worthy of Bradshaw's Railway Guide.

"Well then, Ernest dear," said my mother, "we have no time to lose."

That little matter settled, we went on with our dinner, though not quite so quietly and regularly as usual, for my father was talkative, my mother thoughtful, and I full of a joy that took no thought of preparations.

While my

The next two days were busy ones indeed. mother was arranging affairs at home, my father and I procured the necessary passports. In order to have everything en règle,we had Belgian passports, visé by the Prussian ambassador. This plan necessitated, first a visit to the office of the Belgian ambassador in Portland Place, between eleven and two, and

afterwards a call upon the Prussian ambassador, in Carlton House Terrace, about the same hour on the following day.

"Provided with the magic signatures of these two ambassadors, we may," said my father, "start without fear upon our tour, either in Belgium, Holland, or on the Rhine. Now, Ernest, we will go home and take tea with your mother."

"For the last time in England for some months," said I. "Hurrah for the Rhine!"

We had not much luggage-a couple of small portmanteaus and a carpet-bag containing all that we took in the way of dress and necessaries-so that we had no difficulty in getting down to London Bridge in ample time for the boat. We had provided ourselves with letters of credit on the bankers in the towns we intended to visit, so that we had no trouble about money. Altogether, I think that three persons never left England for a continental trip with much less fuss and bother than we did.

In due time we reached Antwerp, and were comfortably housed in the Hotel St. Antoine, Place Verte; and from Antwerp we went by rail to Brussels; from Brussels to Liege; from Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle, and from the latter place to Cologne, whence our further progress was made by steamboat on the glorious old Rhine.

But I must say something of the cities through which we passed. Antwerp is the city of Rubens, for it contains a street named after the painter, his house in the Place de Meir, numerous pictures from his brush in the museum, his masterpiece (the "Descent from the Cross") in the cathedral, the chair in which he sat while alive, and the tomb in which his bones lie buried; while in the greenest and most beautiful