I joined the hands of the happy-rammed their left us youth.' N'importe. As Sharpe was passing by the hands, by mistake, into one another. Corrected it doors of some Debating Society (the Westminster Fobustled back to the altar-rail, and said 'Amen.' Ports-rum) in his way to dinner, he saw rubricked on the walls, mouth responded as if he had got the whole by heart; and, if any thing, was rather before the priest. It is now midnight, and

*

"March 10, Thor's Day. "On Tuesday dined with Rogers--Mackintosh, Sheridan, Sharpe-much talk, and good-all, except my own little prattlement. Much of old times-Horne Tooke,the Trials, evidence of Sheridan,-and anecdotes of those times, when I, alas! was an infant. If I had been a man, I would have made an English Lord Edward Fitzgerald.

"Set down Sheridan at Brookes's-where, by-the-by, he could not have well set down himself, as he and I were the only drinkers. Sherry means to stand for Westminster, as Cochrane (the stock-jobbing hoaxer) must vacate. Brougham is a candidate. I fear for poor dear Sherry. Both have talents of the highest order, but the youngster has yet a character. We shall see, if he lives to Sherry's age, how he will pass over the red-hot ploughshares of public life. I don't know why, but I hate to see the old ones lose; particularly Sheridan, notwithstanding all his

méchanceté.

"Received many, and the kindest, thanks from Lady Portsmouth, père and mère, for my match-making. I don't regret it, as she looks the countess well, and is a very good girl. It is odd how well she carries her new honours. She looks a different woman, and high-bred, too. I had no idea that I could make so good a peeress.

Scott's name and mine-'Which the best poet?' being the question of the evening; and I suppose all the Tem plars and would-bes took our rhymes in vain, in the course of the controversy. Which had the greater show of hands, I neither know nor care; but I feel the coupling of the names as a compliment,—though I think Scott de serves better company.

*

"W. W. called-Lord Erskine, Lord Holland, &c. &c. Wrote to the Corsair report. She says she don't wonder, since 'Conrad is so like.' It is odd that one, who knows me so thoroughly, should tell me this to my face. However, if she do n't know, nobody can.

"Mackintosh is, it seems, the writer of the defensive letter in the Morning Chronicle. If so, it is very kind, and more than I did for myself.

"Told Murray to secure for me Bandello's Italian Novels at the sale to-morrow. To me they will be nuts. Redde a satire on myself, called 'Anti-Byron,' and told Murray to publish it if he liked. The object of the author is to prove me an Atheist and a systematic con. spirator against law and government. Some of the verse is good; the prose I do n't quite understand. He asserts that my 'deleterious works' have had an 'effect upon civil society, which requires, &c. &c. &c.' and his own poetry. It is a lengthy poem, and a long preface, with an harmo nious titlepage. Like the fly in the fable, I seem to have got upon a wheel which makes much dust; but, unlike the said fly, I do not take it all for my own raising.

"A letter from Bella, which I answered. I shall be in love with her again, if I do n't take care.

*

*

*

*

"I shall begin a more regular system of reading soon

"Thursday, March 17.

"Went to the play with Hobhouse. Mrs. Jordan superlative in Hoyden. and Jones well enough in Foppington. What plays! what wit!-helas! Congreve and Vanbrugh are your only comedy. Our society is too insipid now for the like copy. Would not go to Lady Keith's. Hobhouse thought it odd. I wonder he should like parties. If one is in love, and wants to break a commandment and covet any thing that is there, they do very "I have been sparring with Jackson for exercise thu well. But to go out among the mere herd, without a morning; and mean to continue and renew my acquaint motive, pleasure, or pursuit-'sdeath! I'll none of it.' ance with the muffles. My chest, and arms, and win He told me an odd report; that I am the actual Conrad, are in very good plight, and I am not in flesh. I used to the veritable Corsair, and that part of my travels are sup-be a hard hitter, and my arms are very long for my heigh posed to have passed in privacy. Um! people sometimes hit near the truth; but never the whole truth. H. do n't know what I was about the year after he left the Levant; nor does any one-nor-nor-nor-however, it is a lie but, 'I doubt the equivocation of the fiend that lies like

truth!

;

(5 feet 8 inches.) At any rate, exercise is good, ane this the severest of all; fencing and the broadsword neva fatigued me half so much.

"Redde the 'Quarrels of Authors' (another sort of sparring)—a new work, by that most entertaining and researching writer, Israeli. They seem to be an irritable "I shall have letters of importance to-morrow. Which, set, and I wish myself well out of it. I'll not march *, or **? heigho!-✶ ✶ is in my heart, ** in my through Coventry with them, that's flat.' What the head,** in my eye, and the single one, Heaven knows devil had I to do with scribbling? It is too late to inquire, where. All write, and will be answered. Since I have and all regret is useless. But, an' it were to do again,crept in favour with myself, I must maintain it; but II should write again, I suppose. Such is human nature, never 'mistook my person,' though I think others have. at least my share of it;-though I shall think better of *** called to-day in great despair about his mistress, who has taken a freak of ***. He began a letter to her, but was obliged to stop short-I finished it for him, and he copied and sent it. If he holds out and keeps to my instructions of affected indifference, she will lower her colours. If she do n't, he will,, at least, get rid of her, and she don't seem much worth keeping. But the poor lad is in love-if that is the case, she will win. When they once discover their power, finita è la musica. "Sleepy, and must go to bed.

myself, if I have sense to stop now. If I have a wife, and that wife has a son-by any body-I will bring up mine heir in the most anti-poetical way-make him a lawyer, or a pirate, or-any thing. But if he writes too, I shall be sure he is none of mine, and cut him off with a bank token. Must write a letter-three o'clock.

"Sunday, March 20.

"I intended to go to Lady Hardwicke's, but won't. I always begin the day with a bias towards going to parties: but, as the evening advances my stimulus fails, and 1 "Tuesday, March 15. hardly ever go out-and, when I do, always regret it. "Dined yesterday with R., Mackintosh, and Sharpe. This might have been a pleasant one-at least the Sheridan could not come. Sharpe told several very hostess is a very superior woman. Lady Lansdowne's toamusing anecdotes of Henderson, the actor. Stayed till morrow-Lady Heathcote's Wednesday. Um!-I must late and came home, having drank so much tea, that I spur myself into going to some of them, or it will look like did not get to sleep till six this morning. R. says I am rudeness, and it is better to do as other people do-conto be in this Quarterly-cut un presume, as they hate found them!

is Lady Heathcote's-shall I go? yes—to punish. myselí for not having a pursuit.

"Let me see what did I see? The only person who much struck me was Lady S✶✶d's eldest daughter Lady C. L. They say she is not pretty. I do n't know every thing is pretty that pleases; but there is an air

that shyness of the antelope (which I delight in) in her manner so much, that I observed her more than I did any other woman in the rooms, and only looked at any thing else when I thought she might perceive and feel embar rassed by my scrutiny. After all, there may be some. thing of association in this. She is a friend of Augus

"Her mother, the marchioness, talked to me a little; and I was twenty times on the point of asking her to introduce me to sa fille, but I stopped short. This comes of that affray with the Carlisles.

"Redde Machiavel, parts of Chardin, and Sismondi, and Bandello, by starts. Redde the Edinburgh, 44, just come out. In the beginning of the article on 'Edgeworth's Patronage,' I have gotten a high compliment, I perceive. Whether this is creditable to me, I know not; but it does honour to the editor, because he once abused me. Many a man will retract praise; none but a high-of soul about her-and her colour changes-and there is spirited mind will revoke its censure, or can praise the man it has once attacked. I have often, since my return to England, heard Jeffrey most highly commended by those who know him for things independent of his talents. I admire him for this-not because he has praised me (I have been so praised elsewhere and abused, alternately, that mere habit has rendered me as indifferent to both asta's, and whatever she loves, I can't help liking. a man at twenty-six can be to any thing,) but because he is, perhaps, the only man who, under the relations in which he and I stand, or stood, with regard to each other, would have had the liberality to act thus; none but a great soul dared hazard it. The height on which he stands has not made him giddy ;—a little scribbler would have gone on cavilling to the end of the chapter. As to the justice of his panegyric, that is matter of taste. There are plenty to question it, and glad, too, of the opportunity. "Lord Erskine called to-day. He means to carry down his reflections on the war-or rather wars-to the present day. I trust that he will. Must send to Mr. Murray to get the binding of my copy of his pamphlet finished, as Lord E. has promised me to correct it, and "The Princess of Wales has requested Fuseli to add some marginal notes to it. Any thing in his hand-paint from 'the Corsair ;' leaving to him the choice of any writing will be a treasure, which will gather compound passage for the subject: so Mr. Locke tells me. Tired, interest from years. Erskine has high expectations of jaded, selfish, and supine-must go to bed. Mackintosh's promised History. Undoubtedly it must be a classic, when finished.

"Sparred with Jackson again yesterday morning, and shall to-morrow. I feel all the better for it, in spirits, though my arms and shoulders are very stiff from it. Mem.-to attend the pugilistic dinner. Marquis Huntley is in the chair.

"Lord Erskine thinks that ministers must be in peril of going out. So much the better for him. To me it is the same who are in or out; we want something more than a change of ministers, and some day we will have it.

the air.

"Earl Grey told me, laughingly, of a paragraph in the last Moniteur, which has stated, among other symptoms of rebellion, some particulars of the sensation occasioned in all our government gazettes by the 'tear' lines,—only amplifying, in its restatement, an epigram (by-the-by, no epigram except in the Greek acceptation of the word) into a roman. I wonder the Couriers, &c. &c. have not translated that part of the Moniteur, with additional comments.

"Roman, at least Romance, means a song sometimes, as in the Spanish. I suppose this is the Moniteur's meaning, unless he has confused it with 'the Corsair.'

"Albany, March 28.

"This night got into my new apartments, rented of Lord Althorpe, on a lease of seven years. Spacious, and room for my books and sabres. In the house, too, another advantage. The last few days, or whole week, have been very abstemious, regular in exercise, and yet very unwell.

"Yesterday, dined tête-à-tête at the Cocoa with Scrope Davies-sate from six till midnight-drank between us "I remember, in riding from Chrisso to Castri (Del-one bottle of champaign and six of claret, neither of phos) along the sides of Parnassus, I saw six eagles in which wines ever affect me. Offered to take Scrope It is uncommon to see so many together; and home in my carriage; but he was tipsy and pious, and I it was the number-not the species, which is common was obliged to leave him on his knees, praying to I know enough that excited my attention. not what purpose or pagod. No headache, nor sickness The last bird I ever fired at was an eaglet, on the that night nor to-day. Got up, if any thing, earlier than shore of the Gulf of Lepanto, near Vostitza. It was usual-sparred with Jackson ad sudorem, and have been only wounded, and I tried to save it, the eye was so much better in health than for many days. I have heard bright; but it pined, and died in a few days; and I never nothing more from Scrope. Yesterday paid him four did since, and never will, attempt the death of another thousand eight hundred pounds-a debt of some standbird. I wonder what put these two things into my heading, and which I wished to have paid before. My mind just now? I have been reading Sismondi, and there is is much relieved by the removal of that debit. nothing there that could induce the recollection. "Augusta wants me to make it up with Carlisle. I "I am mightily taken with Braccio di Montone, Gio-have refused every body else, but I can't deny her any vanni Galeazzo, and Eccellino. But the last is not thing; so I must e'en do it, though I had as lief 'drink up Bracciaferro, (of the same name,) Count of Ravenna, Eisel-eat a crocodile.' Let me see-Ward, the Holwhose history I want to trace. There is a fine engraving in Lavater, from a picture by Fuseli, of that Ezzelin, over the body of Meduna, punished by him for a hitch in her constancy during his absence in the Crusades. He was right-but I want to know the story.

*

lands, the Lambs, Rogers, &c. &c.-every body more or less, have been trying for the last two years to accommodate this couplet quarrel to no purpose. I shall laugh if Augusta succeeds.

"Redde a little of many things-shall get in all my books to-morrow. Luckily, this rocm will hold themwith 'ample room and verge, &c. the characters of hell to trace.' I must set about some employment soon; my heart begins to eat itself again.

"April 8.

"Tuesday, March 22. "Last night, party at Lansdowne-house. To-night, party at Lady Charlotte Greville's-deplorable waste of time, and something of temper. Nothing impartednothing acquired-talking without ideas-if any thing "Out of town six days. On my return, find my poor like thought in my mind, it was not on the subjects on little pagod, Napoleon, pushed off his pedestal; the which we were gabbling. Heigho!-and in this way thieves are in Paris. It is his own fault. Like Milo he haif London pass what is called life. To-morrow there would rend the oak; but it closed agan, wedged his

his, and now the beasts-lion, bear, down to the dirtiesa-may all tear him. That Muscovite winter ged as arms; ever since, he has fought with his feet and teeth. The last may still leave their marks; and 'I guess now (as the Yankies say) that he will yet play m a pass. He is in their rear-between them and Ermes. Query-will they ever reach them?

* I mark this day!

"Saturday, April 9, 1814.

"April 10. "I do not know that I am happiest when alone; bui this I am sure of, that I never am long in the society even of her I love, (God knows too well, and the Devil probably too,) without a yearning for the company of my lamp and my utterly confused and tumbled-over library. Even in the day, I send away my carriage oftener than I use or abuse it. Per esempio,-I have not stirred out of these rooms for these four days past: but I have sparred for exercise (windows open) with Jackson an hour daily, to "Napoleon Buonaparte has abdicated the throne of the attenuate and keep up the ethereal part of me. The word. Excellent well.' Methinks Sylla did better; more violent the fatigue, the better my spirits for the rest for he revenged, and resigned in the height of his sway, of the day; and then, my evenings have that calm nothingred with the slaughter of his foes-the finest instance of ness of languor, which I most delight in. To-day I have glorious contempt of the rascals upon record. Diocletian boxed one hour-written an ode to Napoleon Buonaparte did well too-Amurath not amiss, had he become aught-copied it-eaten six biscuits-drunk four bottles of except a dervise-Charles the Fifth but so, so-but Na-soda-water-redde away the rest of my time-besides poleon, worst of all. What! wait till they were in his giving poor ** a world of advice about this mistress of capital, and then talk of his readiness to give up what is his, who is plaguing him into a phthisic and intolerable already gone!! What whining monk art thou-what tediousness. I am a pretty fellow truly to lecture about holy cheat?' 'Sdeath! Dionysius at Corinth was yet a 'the sect.' No matter, my counsels are all thrown away king to this. The 'Isle of Elba' to retire to! Well-if it had been Caprea, I should have marvelled less. 'I see men's minds are but a parcel of their fortunes.' I am utterly bewildered and confounded.

" April 19, 1814.

"There is ice at both poles, north and south-all extremes are the same-misery belongs to the highest *I do n't know—but I think I, even I, (an insect com- when unsixpenced and unthroned. There is, to be sure and the lowest only,-to the emperor and the beggar pared with this creature,) have set my life on casts not a millionth part of this man's. But, after all, a crown may a damned insipid medium—an equinoctial line-no one be not worth dying for. Yet, to outlive Lodi for this!!! knows where, except upon maps and measurement. Oh that Juvenal or Johnson could rise from the dead! Expende-quot libras in duce summo invenies?' I knew they were light in the balance of mortality; but II will keep no further journal of that same hesterna thought their living dust weighed more carats. Alas! this Umperial diamond hath a flaw in it, and is now hardly fit to stick in a glazier's pencil; the pen of the historian won't rate it worth a ducat.

"Psha! 'something too much of this.' But I won't give him up even now; though all his admirers have, 'like the 'Thanes, fall'n from him.

And all our yesterdays have lighted fools

The way to dusty death."

torch light; and, to prevent me from returning, like a dog, to the vomit of memory, I tear out the remaining leaves of this volume, and write, in ipecacuanha,- that the Bourbons are restored!!!' 'Hang up philosophy! To be sure, I have long despised myself and man, but I never spat in the face of my species before-'O fool' I shall go mad.""

EXTRACTS FROM A JOURNAL

IN SWITZERLAND.

"September 18, 1816. "Yesterday, September 17th, I set out with Mr. Hobhouse on an excursion of some days to the mountains.

"September 17.

*Rose at five; left Diodati about seven, in one of the country carriages, (a char-à-banc,) our servants on horseback. Weather very fine; the lake calm and clear; Mont Blanc and the Aiguille of Argentières both very distinct; the borders of the lake beautiful. Reached Lausanne before sunset; stopped and slept at Went to bed at nine; slept till five o'clock.

"September 18. "Called by my courier; got up. Hobhouse walked on before. A mile from Lausanne, the road overflowed by

the lake; got on horseback, and rode till withm a mile of Vevay. The colt young, but went very well. Overtook Hobhouse, and resumed the carriage, which is an open one. Stopped at Vevay two hours (the second time I had visited it;) walked to the church; view from the churchyard superb: within it General Ludlow (the regi cide's) monument-black marble-long inscriptionLatin, but simple; he was an exile two-and-thirty years

one of king Charles's judges. Near him Broughton (who read King Charles's sentence to Charles Stuart) is buried, with a queer and rather canting, but still a republican inscription. Ludlow's house shown; it retains still its inscription-'Omne solum forti patria.' Walked down to the lake side; servants, carriage, saddle-horses

all set off and left us plantés là, by some mistake, and we walked on after them towards Clarens; Hobhouse

rar on before, and overtook them at last. Arrived the second time (first time was by water) at Clarens. Went to Chillon through scenery worthy of I know not whom; went over the Castle of Chillon again. On our return met an English party in a carriage; a lady in it fast asleep-fast asleep in the most anti-narcotic spot in the world—excellent! I remember at Chamouni, in the very eyes of Mont Blanc, hearing another woman, English also, exclaim to her party, 'Did you ever see any thing more rural?' as if it was Highgate, or Hampstead, or Brompton, or Hayes-Rural!' quotha?-Rocks, pines, torrents, glaciers, clouds, and summits of eternal snow far above them-and 'rural!'

to fish-caught one. Our carriage not come; our horses mules, &c. knocked up; ourselves fatigued.

"The view from the highest points of to-day's journey comprised on one side the greatest part of Lake Leman: on the other, the valleys and mountain of the canton of Fribourg, and an immense plain, with the lakes of Neufchâtel and Morat, and all which the borders of the Lake of Geneva inherit; we had both sides of the Jura before us in one point of view, with Alps in plenty. In passing a ravine, the guide recommended strenuously a quickening of pace, as the stones fall with great rapidity and occasional damage; the advice is excellent, but, like most good advice, impracticable, the road being so rough that neither "After a slight and short dinner we visited the Chateau mules, nor mankind, nor horses, can make any violent de Clarens ;* an English woman has rented it recently progress. Passed without fractures or menace thereof. (it was not let when I saw it first ;) the roses are gone "The music of the cow's bells* (for their wealth, like the with their summer; the family out, but the servants de-patriarch's, is cattle) in the pastures, which reach to a sired us to walk over the interior of the mansion. Saw height far above any mountains in Britain, and the shepon the table of the saloon Blair's Sermons, and somebody herds shouting to us from crag to crag, and playing on else (I forget who's) sermons, and a set of noisy children. Saw all worth seeing, and then descended to the 'Bosquet de Julie,' &c. &c.; our guide full of Rousseau, whom he is eternally confounding with St. Preux, and mixing the man and the book. Went again as far as Chillon to revisit the little torrent from the hill behind it. Sunset reflected in the lake. Have to get up at five to-morrow to cross the mountains on horseback; carriage to be sent round; lodged at my old cottage-hospitable and comfortable; tired with a longish ride on the colt, and the subsequent jolting of the char-à-banc, and my scramble

in the hot sun.

"Mem. The corporal who showed the wonders of Chillon was as drunk as Blucher; he was deaf also, and thinking every one else so, roared out the legends of the castle so fearfully. However, we saw things from the gallows to the dungeons, (the potence and the cachots,) and returned to Clarens with more freedom than belonged to

the fifteenth century.

"September 19.

their reeds where the steeps appeared almost inaccessible. with the surrounding scenery, realized all that I have ever heard or imagined of a pastoral existence:—much more so than Greece or Asia Minor; for there we are a little too much of the sabre and musket order, and if there is a crook in one hand, you are sure to see a gun in the other:-but this was pure and unmixed-solitary, savage, and patriarchal. As we went, they played the 'Rans des Vaches' and other airs, by way of farewell. I have lately repeopled my mind with nature.

"September 20.

"Up at six; off at eight. The whole of this day's journey at an average of between from 2700 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. This valley, the longest, narwest, and considered the finest of the Alps, little traversed by travellers. Saw the bridge of La Roche. The bed of the river very low and deep, between immense rocks, and rapid as anger;-a man and mule said to have tumbled

names-so soft!-Stockhorn, I believe, very lofty and scraggy, patched with snow only; no glaciers on it, but some good epaulettes of clouds.

over without damage. The people looked free, and happy, and rich (which last implies neither of the former;) the cows superb; a bull nearly leaped into the char-à-banc"Rose at five. Crossed the mountains to Montbovonagreeable companion in a postchaise; goats and sheep on horseback, and on mules, and, by dint of scrambling, on very thriving. A mountain with enormous glaciers to the foot also; the whole route beautiful as a dream, and now right-the Klitzgerberg; farther on, the Hockthorn―nice to me almost as indistinct. I am so tired;-for though healthy, I have not the strength I possessed but a few years ago. At Montbovon we breakfasted; afterward, on a steep ascent, dismounted; tumbled down; cut a "Passed the boundaries, out of Vaud and into Berne finger open; the baggage also got loose and fell down a canton; French exchanged for bad German; the district ravine, till stopped by a large tree; recovered baggage; famous for cheese, liberty, property, and no taxes. Hobhorse tired and drooping; mounted mule. At the ap-house went to fish-caught none. Strolled to the river; proach of the summit of Dent Jument dismounted again saw boy and kid; kid followed him like a dog; kid could with Hobhouse and all the party. Arrived at a lake in not get over a fence, and bleated piteously; tried myself, the very bosom of the mountains; left our quadrupeds to help kid, but nearly overset both self and kid into the with a shepherd, and ascended farther; came to some river. Arrived here about six in the evening. Nine snow in patches, upon which my forehead's perspiration o'clock-going to bed; not tired to-day, but hope to sleep, fell like rain, making the same dints as in a sieve; the chill nevertheless. of the wind and the snow turned me giddy, but I scrambled on and upwards. Hobhouse went to the highest pinnacle; I did not, but paused within a few yards (at an opening of the cliff.) In coming down, the guide tumbled three times; I fell a laughing, and tumbled too-the `descent luckily soft, though steep and slippery: Hobhouse also fell, but nobody hurt. The whole of the mountains superb. A shepherd on a very steep and high cliff playing upon his pipe ;§ very different from Arcadia, where I saw the pastors with a long musket instead of a crook, and pistols in their girdles. Our Swiss shepherd's pipe) was sweet, and his tune agreeable. I saw a cow strayed: am told that they often break their necks on and over the crags. Descended to Montbovon; pretty scraggy village, with a wild river and a wooden bridge. Hobhouse went

"September 21

"Off early. The valley of Simmenthal as before. Entrance to the plain of Thoun very narrow; high rocks, wooded to the top; river; new mountains, with fine glaciers. Lake of Thoun; extensive plain with a girdle of Alps. Walked down to the Chateau de Schadau; view along the lake; crossed the river in a boat rowed by women Thoun a very pretty town. The whole day's journey Alpine and proud.

"September 22.

"Left Thoun in a boat, which carried us the length of the lake in three hours. The lake small; but the banks fine. Rocks down to the water's edge. Landed at Newhause; passed Interlachen; entered upon a range of scenes beyond all description, or previous conception`

• Manfred Act I, Scene 2d

Passed a rock; inscription-two brothers-one murdered whole woods of withered pines, all withered;* trunke the other; just the place for it. After a variety of windings stripped and lifeless, branches lifeless; done by a single came to an enormous rock. Arrived at the foot of the winter. mountain, (the Jungfrau, that is, the Maiden;) glaciers; torrents; one of these torrents nine hundred feet in height 'September 24. of visible descent. Lodged at the curate's. Set out to "Set off at seven; up at five. Passed the black see the valley; heard an avalanche fall, like thunder; glacier, the mountain Wetterhorn on the right; crossed glaciers enormous; storm came on, thunder, lightning, hail; the Scheideck mountain; came to the Rose glacier, said all in perfection, and beautiful. I was on horseback; guide to be the largest and finest in Switzerland. I think the wanted to carry my cane; I was going to give it him, Bossons glacier at Chamouni as fine; Hobhouse does not. when I recollected that it was a sword-stick, and I thought Came to the Reichenbach waterfall, two hundred feet the lightning might be attracted towards him; kept it high; halted to rest the horses. Arrived in the valley myself: a good deal incumbered with it, as it was too of Oberland; rain came on; drenched a little; only four heavy for a whip, and the horse was stupid, and stood with hours' rain, however, in eight days. Came to the lake every other peal. Got in, not very wet, the cloak being of Brientz, then to the town of Brientz; changed. In stanch. Hobhouse wet through; Hobhouse took refuge the evening, four Swiss peasant girls of Oberhasli came in cottage; sent man, umbrella, and cloak (from the and sang the airs of their country; two of the voices curate's when I arrived) after him. Swiss curate's house beautiful-the tunes also; so wild and original, and at the very good indeed-much better than most English vicar-same time of great sweetness. The singing is over; but ages. It is immediately opposite the torrent I spoke of below stairs I hear the notes of a fiddle, which bode no The torrent is in shape curving over the rock, like the tail good to my night's rest; I shall go down and see the of a white horse streaming in the wind, such as it might dancing. be conceived would be that of the 'pale horse' on which Death is mounted in the Apocalypse.* It is neither mist nor water, but a something between both; its immense height (nine hundred feet) gives it a wave or curve, a spreading here, or condensation there, wonderful and indescribable. I think, upon the whole, that this day has been better than any of this present excursion.

" September 25

"The whole town of Brientz were apparently gathered together in the rooms below; pretty music and excellent waltzing: none but peasants; the dancing much better than in England; the English can't waltz, never could, never will. One man with his pipe in his mouth, but danced as well as the others; some other dances in pairs and in fours, and very good. I went to bed, but the revelry continued below late and early. Brientz but a village. Rose early. Embarked on the lake of Brienız; rowed by the women in a long boat; presently we put to shore, and another woman jumped in. It seems it is the custom here for the boats to be manned by women; four or five men and three women in our bark, all the women took an oar, and but one man.

"September 23. "Before ascending the mountain, went to the torrent (seven in the morning) again; the sun upon it, forming a rainbow of the lower part of all colours, but principally purple and gold; the bow moving as you move; I never saw any thing like this; it is only in the sunshine. As cended the Wengen mountain; at noon reached a valley on the summit; left the horses, took off my coat, and went to the summit, seven thousand feet (English feet) "Got to Interlachen in three hours; pretty lake; not above the level of the sea, and about five thousand above so large as that of Thoun. Dined at Interlachen. Gir the valley we left in the morning. On one side, our view gave me some flowers and made me a speech in German comprised the Jungfrau, with all her glaciers; then the of which I know nothing; I do not know whether the Dent d'Argent, shining like truth; then the Little Giant, speech was pretty, but as the woman was, I hope so. (the Kleine Eigher ;) and the Great Giant, (the Grosse Re-embarked on the lake of Thoun; fell asleep part of Eigher,) and last, not least, the Wetterhorn. The height the way; sent our horses round; found people on the of the Jungfrau is 13,000 feet above the sea, 11,000 above shore, blowing up a rock with gunpowder; they blew it the valley she is the highest of this range. Heard the up near our boat, only telling us a minute before ;-mere avalanches falling every five minutes nearly. From stupidity, but they might have broken our noddles. Got whence we stood, on the Wengen Alp, we had all these to 'Thoun in the evening; the weather has been tolerable in view on one side; on the other, the clouds rose from the whole day. But as the wild part of our tour is the opposite valley, curling up perpendicular precipices finished, it don't matter to us; in all the desirable part. like the foam of the ocean of hell, during a spring tide- we have been most lucky in warmth and cicarness of it was white and sulphury, and immeasurably deep in atmosphere. appearance. The side we ascended was (of course) not of so precipitous a nature; but on arriving at the summit, we looked down upon the other side upon a boiling sea of cloud, dashing against the crags on which we stood, (these crags on one side quite perpendicular.) Stayed a quarter of an hour; began to descend; quite clear from cloud on that side of the mountain. In passing the masses of snow, I made a snowball and pelted Hobhouse with it. "Got down to our horses again; eat something; remounted; heard the avalanches still; came to a morass; Hobhouse dismounted to get over well; I tried to pass my horse over; the horse sunk up to the chin, and of "September 28. course he and I were in the mud together; bemired, but "Saw the tree planted in honour of the battle of not hurt; laughed, and rode on. Arrived at the Grindel- Morat; three hundred and forty years old; a good deal wald; dined, mounted again, and rode to the higher decayed. Left Fribourg, but first saw the cathedral; glacier-like a frozen hurricane.§ Starlight, beautiful, high tower. Overtook the baggage of the nuns of I.a but a devil of a path! Never mind, got safe in; a little Trappe, who are removing to Normandy afterward a ghtning, but the whole of the day as fine in point of coach, with a quantity of nuns in it. Proceeded along weather as the day on which Paradise was made. Passed the banks of the lake of Neufchâtel; very pleasing and

"September 26.

"Being out of the mountains, my journal must be as flat as my journey. From Thoun to Berne, good road, hedges, villages, industry, property, and all sorts of tokens of insipid civilization. From Berne to Fribourg; different canton; Catholics; passed a field of battle; Swiss beat the French in one of the late wars against the French republic. Bought a dog. The greater part of this tour has been on horseback, on foot, and on mule.

• Manfred, Act I. Scene 2d.

† Childe Harold, Canto II.—Song after Stanza 55.