stranger. I was conducted to a very handsome apart-consul's, with three doors wide open, no fire, or even firement, and my health inquired after by the vizier's secre-place in the house, except for culinary purposes. tary, 'à-la-mode Turque! "To-day I saw the remains of the town of Actium,* The next day I was introduced to Ali Pacha. I near which Antony lost the world, in a small bay, where was dressed in a full suit of staff uniform, with a very two frigates could hardly manœuvre: a broken wall is inagnificent sabre, &c. The vizier received me in a the sole remnant. On another part of the gulf stands large room paved with marble; a fountain* was playing the ruins of Nicopolis, built by Augustus in honour of ue centre; the apartment was surrounded by scarlet his victory. Last night I was at a Greek marriage; but ottomans. He received me standing, a wonderful com- this and a thousand things more I have neither time 1 alirent from a Mussulman, and made me sit down on space to describe. his right hand. I have a Greek interpreter for general "I am going to-morrow, with a guard of fifty men, tc ese, but a physician of Ali's, named Femlario, who un- Patras in the Morea, and thence to Athens, where 1 derstands Latin, acted for me on this occasion. His shall winter. Two days ago I was near'y lost in a first question was, why, at so early an age, I left my Turkish ship of war, owing to the ignorance of the capcountry?-(the Turks have no idea of travelling fortain and crew, though the storm was not violent. Fletcher amusement.) He then said, the English minister, Cap-yelled after his wife, the Greeks called on all the saints, tain Leake, had told him I was of a great family, and the Mussulmans on Alla; the captain burst into tears desired his respects to my mother; which I now, in the and ran below deck, telling us to call on God; the sails name of Ali Pacha, present to yon. He said he was certain I was a man of birth, because I had small ears, curling hair, and httle white hands, and expressed himself pleased with iny appearance and garb. He told me to consider him as a father while I was in Turkey, and said he looked on me as his son. Indeed, he treated me like a child, sending me almonds and sugared sherbet, immense cloak,) and lay down on deck to wait the worst. fruit and sweetmeats, twenty times a day. He begged me to visit him often, and at night, when he was at leisure. I then, after coffee and pipes, retired for the first time. I saw him thrice afterward. It is singular that the Turks, who have no hereditary dignities, and few great families, except the Sultans, pay so much respect to birth; for I found my pedigree more regarded than my title. were split, the mainyard shivered, the wind blowing fresh, the night setting in, and all our chance was to make Corfu, which is in possession of the French, or (as Fletcher pathetically termed it) 'a watery grave.' I did what I could to console Fletcher, but finding him incorrigible, wrapped myself up in my Albanian capote, (an I have learned to philosophize in my travels, and if I had not, complaint was useless. Luckily the wind abated, and only drove us on the coast of Suli, on the main land, where we landed, and proceeded, by the help of the natives, to Prevesa again; but I shall not trust Turkish sailors in future, though the Pacha had ordered one of his own galliots to take me to Patras. I am therefore going as far as Missolonghi by land, and there have only to cross a small gulf to get to Patras. His highness is sixty years old, very fat, and not tall, but with a fine face, light blue eyes, and a white beard; "Fletcher's next epistle will be full of marvels: we this manner is very kind, and at the same time he pos- were one night lost for nine hours in the mountains in a sesses that dignity which I find universal among the thunder-storm, and since nearly wrecked. In both Turks. He has the appearance of any thing but his cases, Fletcher was sorely bewildered, from apprehenreal character; for he is a remorseless tyrant, guilty of sions of famine and banditti in the first, and drowning in the most horrible cruelties, very brave, and so good a the second instance. His eyes were a little hurt by the general that they call him the Mahometan Buonaparte. lightning, or crying, (I don't know which,) but are now Napoleon has twice offered to make him king of Epirus, recovered. When you write, address to me at Mr hut he prefers the English interest, and abhors the Strane's, English consul, Patras, Morea. French, as he himself told me. He is of so much con- "I could tell you I know not how many incidents sequence, that he is much courted by both; the Alba- that I think would amuse you, but they crowd on my nians being the most warlike subjects of the Sultan, mind as much as they would swell my paper, and I can though Ali is only nominally dependent on the Porte. neither arrange them in the one, nor put inem down on He has been a mighty warrior; but is as barbarous as the other, except in the greatest confusion. I like the he is successful, roasting rebels, &c. &c. Buonaparte Albanians much; they are not all Turks; some tribes sent him a snuff box, with his picture; he said the snuff- are Christians. But their religion makes little dif box was very well, but the picture he could excuse, as he ference in their manner or conduct. They are esteemed neither liked it nor the original. His ideas of judging of the best troops in the Turkish service. I lived on my a man's birth from ears, hands, &c. were curious enough. route two days at once, and three days again, in a barTo me, he was, indeed, a father, giving me letters, rack at Salora, and never found soldiers so tolerable, guards, and every possible accommodation. Our next though I have been in the garrisons of Gibraltar and conversations were of war and travelling, politics and Malta, and seen Spanish, French, Sicilian, and Eritish England. He called my Albanian soldier, who attends troops in abundance. I have had nothing stolen, and me, and told him to protect me at all hazard. His was always welcome to their provision and milk. Not name is Viscillie, and like all the Albanians, he is brave, a week ago an Albanian chief, (every village has its rigidly honest, and faithful; but they are cruel, though not treacherous; and have several vices, but no meannesses. They are, perhaps, the most beautiful race, in point of countenance, in the world; their women are sometimes handsome also, but they are treated like saves, beaten, and, in short, complete beasts of burden; they plough, dig, and sow. I found them carrying wood, ani actually repairing the highways. The men are all soldiers, and war and the chace their sole occupation. The women are the labourers, which, aber all, is no great hardship in so delightful a climate. Yesterday, the 11th of November, I bathed in the sea; to lay it is so hot that I am writing in a shady room of the English pense has not been half as much as staying only three chief, who is called Primate,) after helping us out of the Turkish galley in her distress, feeding us, and lodging my suite, consisting of Fletcher, a Greek, two Athenians a Greek priest, and my companion, Mr. Hobhouse, re fused any compensation but a written paper stating that I was well received; and when I pressed him to accept a few sequins, 'No,' he replied; 'I wish you to love me not to pay me.' These are his words. "It is astonishing how far money goes in this country. While I was in the capital, I had nothing to pay, by the vizier's order; but since, though I have generally had sixteen horses, and generally six or seven men, the ex • See Childe Harold, Canto II. stanza 45. weeks in Malta, though Sir A. Ball, the governor, gave the farther I go the more my laziness increases, and iny me a house for nothing, and I had only one servant. By- aversion to letter-writing becomes more coufirmed. I the-by, I expect Hanson to remit regularly; for I am not have written to no one but yourself and Mr. Harson, about to stay in this province for ever. Let him write and these are communications of business and duty rato me at Mr. Strané's, English consul, Patras. The ther than of inclination. fact is, the fertility of the plains is wonderful, and specie Fletcher is very much disgusted with his fatigues is scarce, which makes this remarkable cheapness. 1 though he has undergone nothing that I have not shared. am going to Athens to study modern Greek, which He is a poor creature; indeed English servants are de differs much from the ancient, though radically similar. testable travellers. I have, besides him, two Albanian I have no desire to return to England, nor shall I, unless soldiers and a Greek interpreter; all excellent in their compelled by absolute want, and Hanson's neglect; but way. Greece, particularly in the vicinity of Athens, is ! shall not enter into Asia for a year or two, as I have delightful; cloudless skies and lovely landscapes. But nuch to see in Greece, and I may perhaps cross into I must reserve all account of my adventures till we Africa, at least the Egyptian part. Fletcher, like all meet. I keep no journal, but my friend Hobhouse writes Englishmen, is very much dissatisfied, though a little re-incessantly. Pray take care of Murray and Robert, conciled to the Turks by a present of eighty piastres and tell the boy it is the most fortunate thing for him from the vizier, which, if you consider every thing, and that he did not accompany me to Turkey. Consider the value of specie here, is nearly worth ten guineas this as merely a notice of my safety, and believe me, English. He has suffered nothing but from cold, heat, "Yours, &c. &c. and vermin, which those who lie in cottages and cross "BYRON" mountains in a cold country must undergo, and of which I have equally partaken with himself; but he is not valiant, and is afraid of robbers and tempests. I have no one to be remembered to in England, and wish to hear nothing from it, but that you are well, and a letter or two on business from Hanson, whom you may tell to write. I will write when I can, and beg you to bebove me, "Your affectionate son, LETTER LII. TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON, "DEAR MOTHER, "Smyrna, April 10th, 1810. "To-morrow, or this evening, I sail for Constantinopie in the Salsette frigate, of thirty-six guns. She returns to England with our ambassador, whom she is going up on purpose to receive, have written to you short "P. S. I have some very magnifique' Albanian letters from Athens, Smyrna, and a long one from Aldresses, the only expensive article in this country.bania. I have not yet mustered courage for a second They cost 50 guineas each, and have so much gold they large epistle, and you must not be angry, since I take all would cost in England two hundred. I have been in-opportunities of apprizing you of my safety: but even troduced to Hussim Bey and Mahmout Pacha, both that is an effort, writing is so irksome. I have been tra little boys, grand-children of Ali, at Yanina. They are versing Greece, and Epirus, Illyria, &c. &c. and you totally unlike our lads, have painted complexions like see by my date, have got into Asia. I have made but rouged dowagers, large black eyes, and features perfectly regular. They are the prettiest little animals I ever saw, and are broken into the court ceremonies already. The Turkish salute is a slight inclination of the head, with the hand on the breast. Intimates always kiss. Mahmout is ten years old, and hopes to see me again. We are friends without understanding each other, like many other folks, though from a different cause. has given me a letter to his father in the Morea, to whom I have also letters from Ali Pacha." one excursion lately, to the ruins of Ephesus. Malta is the rendezvous of my letters, so address to that island. Mr. Hanson has not written, though I wished to hear of the Norfolk sale, the Lancashire lawsuit, &c. &c. I am anxiously expecting fresh remittances. I believe you will like Nottinghamshire, at least, my share of it. Pray accept my good wishes in lieu of a long letter, and He believe me, "Yours sincerely and affectionately, LETTER LI. 10 MRS. BYRON, DEAR MOTHER, "Smyrna, March 19, 1810. LETTER LIII. TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON. "Salsette Frigate, off the Dardanelles, April 17, 1810. "DEAR MADAM, "I write at anchor, (in our way to Constantinople,) off "I cannot write you a long letter, but as I know you the Troad, which I traversed two days ago. All the rewill not be sorry to receive any intelligence of my move-mains of Troy are the tombs of her destroyers, among ments, pray accept what I can give. I have traversed which I see that of Antilochus from my cabin window. the greatest part of Greece, besides Epirus, &c. &c. re- These are large mounds of earth, like the barrows of the aided ten weeks at Athens, and am now on the Asiatic Danes in your island. There are several monuments, side on my way to Constantinople. I have just returned about twelve miles distant, of the Alexandrian Troas, from viewing the ruins of Ephesus, a day's journey from which I also examined; but by no means to be compared Smyrna. I presume you have received a long letter I with the remnants of Athens and Ephesus. This will wrote from Albania, with an account of my reception by be sent in a ship of war bound with despatches for the Pacha of the province. Malta. In a few days we shall be at Constantinople, "When I arrive at Constantinople, I shall determine barring accidents. I have also written from Smyrn whether to proceed into Persia or return, which latter I and shall, from time to time, transmit short accounts of do not wish, if I can avoid it. But I have no intelligence my movements, but I feel totally unequal to long letters. from Mr. Hanson, and but one letter from yourself. I shall stand in need of remittances whether I proceed or eturn. I have written to him repeatedly, that he may not plead ignorance of my situation for neglect. I can "Believe me, "Yours very sincerely, "BYRON." "P. S. No accounts from Hanson! Do not complain give you no acconnt of any thing, for I have not time or of short letters, I write to nobody but yourself and Mr opportunity, the frigate sailing immediately. Indeed, | Hanson. LETTER LIV. TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON. "Constantinople, May 18th, 1810. are still eminently beautiful, particularly Deiphi and Cape Colonna in Attica. Yet these are nothing to parts of Illyria and Epirus, where places without a name, and rivers not laid down in maps, may, one day, when more known, be justly esteemed superior subjects, for the pencil and the pen, to the dry ditch of the Ilissus and the bogs of Baotia. "DEAR MADAM, *} arrived here in an English frigate from Smyrna, a few days ago, without any events worth mentioning, ex- "The Troad is a fine field for conjecture and snipecept landing to view the plains of Troy, and afterwards, shooting, and a good sportsman and an ingenious scholar when we were at anchor in the Dardanelles, swimming may exercise their feet and faculties to great advantage from Sestos to Abydos, 'n imitation of Monsieur Lean-upon the spot ;-or, if they prefer riding, lose their way der, whose story you no doubt know too well for me to (as I did) in a cursed quagmire of the Scar ander, whe add any thing on the subject, except that I crossed the wriggles about as if the Dardan virgins still offered their Hellespont without so good a motive for the undertaking. As I am just going to visit the Captain Pacha, you will excuse the brevity of my letter. When Mr. Adair takes leave I am to see the Sultan and the mosques, &c. "Believe me, yours ever, "BYRON." LETTER LV. TO MR. HENRY DRURY. "Salsette Frigate, May 3d, 1810. MY DEAR DRURY, wonted tribute. The only vestige of Troy, or her de stroyers, are the barrows supposed to contain the car casses of Achilles, Antilochus, Ajax, &c.--but Mount Ida is still in high feather, though the shepherds are now-a-days not much like Ganymede. But why should I say more of these things? are they not written in the Boke of Gell? and has not H. got a journal? I keep none, as I have renounced scribbling. "I see not much difference between ourselves and the Turks, save that we have **, and they have nonethat they have long dresses, and we short, and that we talk much, and they little. * * * * * They are sensible people. Ali Pacha told me he was sure I *When I left England, nearly a year ago, you re- was a man of rank, because I had small ears and hands quested me to write to you-I will do so. I have and curling hair. By-the-by, I speak the Romaic, or crossed Portugal, traversed the south of Spain, visited modern Greek, tolerably. It does not differ from the Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, and thence passed into Turkey, ancient dialects so much as you would conceive; but the where I am still wandering. I first landed in Albania, pronunciation is diametrically opposite. Of verse, exthe ancient Epirus, where we penetrated as far as Mount cept in rhyme, they have no idea. Tomarit-excellently treated by the chief Ali Pacha; "I like the Greeks, who are plausible rascals,-with and after journeying through Illyria, Chaonia, &c. all the Turkish vices, without their courage. However, crossed the gulf of Actium, with a guard of fifty Albani- some are brave, and all are beautiful, very much reans, and passed the Achelous in our route through Acar-sembling the busts of Alcibiades:-the women not quite nania and Etolia. We stopped a short time in the Morea, crossed the gulf of Lepanto, and landed at the foot of Parnassus; saw all that Delphi retains, and so on to Thebes and Athens, at which last we remained ten weeks. "His majesty's ship Pylades brought us to Smyrna; but not before we had topographized Attica, including, of course, Marathon and the Sunian promontory. From Smyrna to the Troad (which we visited when at anchor, for a fortnight, off the tomb of Antilochus) was our next stage; and now we are in the Dardanelles, waiting for wind to proceed to Constantinople. so handsome. I can swear in Turkish; but, except one horrible oath, and 'pimp,' and 'bread,' and 'water,' 1 have got no great vocabulary in that language. They are extremely polite to strangers of any rank, properly protected; and as I have two servants and two soldiers, we get on with great eclat. We have been occasionally in danger of thieves, and once of shipwreck,-but always escaped. "At Malta I fell in love with a married woman,* and challenged an aid-de-camp of General * * (a rude fellow, who grinned at something, I never rightly knew what)-but he explained and apologized, and the lady "This morning I swam from Sestos to Abydos.* The embarked for Cadiz, and so I escaped murder and crim. immediate distance is not above a mile, but the current con. Of Spain I sent some account to our Hodgson, renders it hazardous ;—so much so that I doubt whether but have subsequently written to no one, save notes to Leander's conjugal affection must not have been a little relations and lawyers, to keep them out of my premises. chilled in his passage to Paradise. I attempted it a mean to give up all connexion, on my return, with week ago, and failed, owing to the north wind, and the many of my best friends-as I supposed them—and to wonderful rapidity of the tide,-though I have been snarl all my life. But I hope to have one good-hufrom my childhood a strong swimmer. But, this morn-moured laugh with you, and to embrace Dwyer, and ing being calmer, I succeeded, and crossed the 'broad pledge Hodgson, before I commence cynicism. Hellespont' in an hour and ten minutes. "Well, my dear sir, I have left my home, and seen part of Africa and Asia, and a tolerable portion of Europe. I have been with generals and admirals, princes and pachas, governors and ungovernables, but I have not time or paper to expatiate. I wish to let you know that I live with a friendly remembrance of you, and a hope to meet you again; and, if I do this as shortly as possible, attribute it to any thing but forgetfulness. "Greece, ancient and modern, you know too well to require description. Albania, indeed, I have seen more of than any Englishman, (except a Mr. Leake,) for it is a country rarely visited, from the savage character of the natives, though abounding in more natural beauties than the classical regions of Greece,-which, however, • See Letter 477, &c. "Tell Doctor Butler I am now writing with the gold pen he gave me before I left England, which is the reason my scrawl is more unintelligible than usual. I have been at Athens and seen plenty of these reeds for scribbling, some of which he refused to bestow upon me, because topographic Gell had brought them from Attica But I will not describe,-no-you must be satisfied wi simple detail till my return; and then we will unfold the floodgates of colloquy. I am in a 36 gun frigate, going up to fetch Bob Adair from Constantinople, who will have the honour to carry this letter. "And so H.'s boke is out, with some sentimental sing-song of my own to fill up, and how does it take, eh? and where the devil is the second edition of my • See Letter 49. ↑ Hobhouse's Miscellanies, in which several of Lord Byron's smaller pieces were originally published. Satire, with additions? and my name on the title-page? out of the question. I have been very well treated by and more lines tagged to the end, with a new exordium the Pachas and Governors, and have no complaint to and what not, hot from my anvil before I cleared the make of any kind. Hobhouse will one day inform you Channel? The Mediterranean and the Atlantic roll of all our adventures,-were I to attempt the recital between me and criticism; and the thunders of the Hy- neither my paper nor your patience would hold out perborean Review are deafened by the roar of the during the operation. Flellespont. "Remember me to Claridge, if not translated to college, and present to Hodgson assurances of my high consideration. Now, you will ask, what shall I do next? and I answer, I do not know. I may return in a few months, but I have intents and projects after visiting Constantinople.-Hobhouse, however, will probably be back in September. * * * "Nobody, save yourself, has written to me since I left England; but indeed I did not request it. I except my relations, who write quite as often as I wish. Of Hobhouse's volume I know nothing, except that it is out; and of my second edition I do not even know that, and certainly do not, at this distance, interest myself in the matter. * I hope you and Bland roll down the stream of sale with rapidity. "On the 2d of July we have left Albion one year- "Of my return I cannot positively speak, but think it 'oblitus meorum obliviscendus et illis.' I was sick of probable Hobhouse will precede me in that respect. my own country, and not much prepossessed in favour of We have been very nearly one year abroad. I should any other; but I 'drag on' 'my chain' without 'length- wish to gaze away another, at least, in these ever-green ening it at each remove.' I am like the Jolly Miller, climates; but I fear business, law business, the worst of caring for nobody, and not cared for. All countries are employments, will recall me previous to that period, if much the same in my eyes. I smoke, and stare at not very quickly. If so, you shall have due notice. mountains, and twirl my mustachios very independently. | "I hope you will find me an altered personage,-I do I miss no comforts, and the mosquitoes that wrack the morbid frame of H. have, luckily for me, little effect on mine, because I live more temperately. not mean in body, but in manner, for I begin to find out that nothing but virtue will do in this d-d world. I am tolerably sick of vice, which I have tried in its agreeable "I omitted Ephesus in my catalogue, which I visited varieties, and mean, on my return, to cut all my dissolute during my sojourn at Smyrna; but the Temple has al-acquaintance, leave off wine and carnal company, and most perished, and St. Paul need not trouble himself to betake myself to politics and decorum. I am very epistolize the present brood of Ephesians, who have serious and cynical, and a good deal disposed to moralize: converted a large church built entirely of marble into a but, fortunately for you, the coming homily is cut off by mosque, and I don't know that the edifice looks the default of pen and defection of paper. worse for it "My paper is full, and my ink ebbing-good afternoon! If you address to me at Malta, the letter will be forwarded wherever I may be. Hobhouse greets you; he pines for his poetry,—at least, some tidings of it. I almost forgot to tell you that I am dying for love of three Greek girls at Athens, sisters. I lived in the same house. Teresa, Mariana, and Katinka, are the names of these divinities,-all of them under 15. “ Your ταπεινοτατος δύλος, LETTER LVI. TO MR. HODGSON. "Salsette Frigate, in the Dar laneles, off "Good morrow! If you write, address to me at Malta, whence your letters will be forwarded. You need not remember me to any body, but believe me "Yours with all faith, LETTER LVII. "BYRON." TO THE HONOURABLE MRS. BYRON. "Constantinople, May 24th, 1810. "DEAR MOTHER, pont. Of Constantinople you have, of course, read fifty descriptions by sundry travellers, which are in general so correct, that I have nothing to add on the subject. "I wrote to you very shortly the other day on my a rival here, and as another opportunity avails, take up my en again, that the frequency of my letters may atone for then brevity. Pray did you ever receive a picture of ne in oil by Sanders, in Vigo-lane, London? (a noted umne: if not, write for it immediately; it was paid for, "I am on my way to Constantinople, after a tour except the frame, (if frame there be,) before I left Engthrough Greece, Epirus, &c. and part of Asia Minor, land. I believe I mentioned to you in my last, that my some particulars of which I have just communicated to only notable exploit, lately, has been swimming from our friend and host H. Drury. With these, then, I shall Sestos to Abydos on the third of this month, in humble not trouble you; but, as you will perhaps be pleased to imitation of Leander, of amorous memory, though I had hear that I am well, &c. I take the opportunity of our no Hero to receive me on the other shore of the Hellesambassador's return to forward the few lines I have time to despatch. We have undergone some inconveniences, and incurred partial perils, but no events worthy of communication, unless you will deem it one that two days "When our ambassador takes his leave, I shall acago I swam from Sestos to Abydos. This, with a few company him to see the sultan, and afterward probably alarms from robbers, and some danger of shipwreck in a return to Greece. I have heard nothing of Mr. Hanson, Turkish galliot six months ago, a visit to a Pacha, a pas- but one remittance, without any letter from that gentlesion for a married woman at Malta, a challenge to an man. If you have occasion for any pecuniary supply, officer, an attachment to three Greek girls at Athens, pray use my funds as far as they go without reserve; with a great deal of huffoonery and fine prospects, and, lest this should not be enough, in my next to Mr. form all that has distinguished my progress since my Hanson I will direct him to advance any sum you may departure from Spain. want, leaving it to your discretion how much, in the preHobhouse rhymes and journalizes; I stare and do no- sent state of my affairs, you may think proper to require. thing unless smoking can be deemed an active amuse-I have already seen the most interesting parts of Turkey The Turks take too much care of their women in Europe and Asia Minor, but shall not proceed farther to permit them to be scrutinized; but I have lived a good till I hear from England: in the mean time I shall exdeal with the Greeks, whose modern dialect I can con-pect occasional supplies, according to circumstances, vers in enough for my purposes. With the Turks I and shall pass my summer among my friends, the have also some male acquaintances-female society is [ Greeks of the Morea. ment. You will direct to Malta, where my letters are for- or Constantinople. I believe he paid them warded, and believe me to be, that goes for nothing, as it was an annuity. "With great sincerity, "Yours ever. P. S. Fletcher is well; pray take care of my boy Robert, and the old man Murray. It is fortunate they returned; neither the youth of the one, nor the age of the other, would have suited the changes of climate and fatigue of travelling." LETTER LVIII. TO MR. HENRY DRURY. "Constantinople, June 17th, 1810. Though I wrote to you so recently, I break in upon you again to congratulate you on a child being born, as a letter from Hodgson apprizes me of that event, in which I rejoice. Ace, bu "I wish you would write. I have heard from Hodgson frequently. Malta is my post-office. I mean to be with you by next Montem. You remember the last, I hope for such another; but, after having swam across the broad Hellespont,' I disdain Datchett. Good afternoon' "I am yours, very sincerely, LETTER LIX. TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON. "BYRON." "Constantinople, June 28th, 1810. "MY DEAR MOTHER, mine have not arrived, particularly a very long one, "I regret to perceive by your last letter, that several of written in November last, from Albania, when I was on a "I am just come from an expedition through the Bos-visit to the Pacha of that province. Fletcher has also phorus to the Black Sea and the Cyanean Symplegades, up which last I scrambled at as great a risk as ever the Argonauts escaped in their hoy. You remember the beginning of the nurse's dole in the Medea, of which I beg you to take the following translation, done on the summit. "Ob how I wish that au embargo Had kept in port the good ship Argo! Who, still unlaunch'd from Grecian docks, Had never pass'd the Azure rocks; But now I fear her trip will be a as it very nearly was to me ;-for, had not this sublime will forward or deliver this, and is on his return to Engwritten to his spouse perpetually. Mr. Hobhouse, who land, can inform you of our different movements, but I am be down to Nott's, some time or other; but Fletcher, very uncertain as to my own return. He will probably whom I send back as an incumbrance, (English servants are sad travellers,) will supply his place in the interim, and describe our travels, which have been tolerably extensive. I have written twice briefly from this capital, from Smyrna, from Athens, and other parts of Greece; from Albania, the Pacha of which province desired his respects to my mother, and said he was sure I was a man of high birth, because I had small ears, curling hair and white hands!! He was very kind to me, begged me to consider him as a father, and gave me a guard of forty soldiers through the forests of Acarnania. But of this and other circumstances I have written to you at large, and "I have now sat on the Cyaneans, swam from Sestos yo Abydos. (as I trumpeted in my last,) and, after passing through the Morea again, shall set sail for Santa Maura, yet hope you will receive my letters. and toss myself from the Leucadian promontory-sur- "I remember Mahmout Pacha, the grandson of Ali viving which operation, I shall probably rejoin you in Pacha, at Yanina, (a little fellow of ten years of age, with England. H. who will deliver this, is bound straight for these parts; and as he is bursting with his travels, I shall not anticipate his narratives, but merely beg you not to believe one word he says, but reserve your ear for me, if you have any desire to be acquainted with the truth, * * large black eyes, which our ladies would purchase at any price, and those regular features which distinguish the Turks,) asked me how I came to travel so young, without any body to take care of me. This question was put by the little man with all the gravity of threescore. I cannot * *now write copiously; I have only time to tell you that I I am bound for Athens once more, and thence to the have passed many a fatiguing, but never a tedious moMorea; but my stay depends so much on my caprice, ment; and that all I am afraid of is, that I shall contract that I can say nothing of its probable duration. I have a gipsy-like wandering disposition, which will make home been out a year already, and may stay another; but I am tiresome to me: this, I am told, is very common with men quicksilver, and say nothing positively. We are all very in the habit of peregrination, and, indeed, I feel it so. On much occupied doing nothing, at present. We have seen the third of May, swam from Sestos to Abydos. You every thing but the mosques, which we are to view with a know the story of Leander, but I had no Hero to receive firman on Tuesday next. But of these and other sun-me at landing. dries let H. relate, with this proviso, that I am to be re- "I also passed a fortnight in the Troad: the tombs of ferred to for authenticity; and I beg leave to contradict Achilles and Esyetes still exist in large barrows, similar all those things whereon he lays particular stress. But, to those you have, doubtless, seen in the North. The if he soars, at any time, into wit, I give you leave to ap- other day I was at Belgrade, (a village in these environs,) plaud, because that is necessarily stolen from his fellow-to see the house built on the same site as Lady Mary pilgrim. Tell Davies that H. has made excellent use of Wortley's; by-the-by, her Ladyship, as far as I can his best jokes in many of his majesty's ships of war; but judge, has lied, but not half so much as any other woman add, also, that I always took care to restore them to the would have done in the same situation. I have been in right owner; in consequence of which he, (Davies,) is no all the principal mosques by the virtue of a firman; this less famous by water than by land, and reigns unrivalled is a favour rarely permitted to infidels, but the ambassain the cabin, as in the 'Cocoa Tree.' dor's departure obtained it for us. I have been up the And Hodgson has been publishing more poesy-I Bosphorus into the Black Sea, round the walls of the wish he would send me his 'Sir Edgar,' and 'Bland's city, and indeed I know more of it by sight, than I do of Anthology' to Malta, where they will be forwarded. In London. my last, which I hope you received, I gave an outline of I hope to amuse you some winter's evening with the the ground we have covered. If you have not been over-details, but at present you must excuse me; I am no' taken by this despatch, H.'s tongue is at your service. able to write long letters in June. I return to spend my Remember me to Dwyer, who owes me eleven guineas. summer in Greece. I shall not proceed further into Tell him to put them in my banker's hands at Gibraltar Asia, as I have visited Smyrna, Ephesus and the Troad. I write often, but you must not be alarmed when you de not receive my letters; consider we have no regular post Bee Childe Haroldi, Canto IV. stanza 178; also answer to Bowles, |