244 ABDALLAH PACHA. coat, similar to that worn by Europeans, and such as has been adopted by the army at Constantinople, covered his military dress. Round his head he had a Cachemir shawl carelessly arranged. "He ascended the staircase, and, having passed through the great saloon, where numerous spectators had assembled, he advanced towards the hall of audience, where the viceroy was seated. The apartments were magnificently lighted. When Abdallah appeared at the threshold of the door, Mehemet Ali rose, and looked at him with a smiling air, as if to encourage him to approach. Abdallah hastened to him, and, bowing head, fell at his feet, and kissed the hem of the viceroy's garments. 666 'Forgive, your Highness,' said Abdallah, in a faint voice, and scarcely able to repress his tears, forgive my faults; and, since Heaven has endued your soul with the qualities of a sovereign, let your pardon be that of a sovereign, not that of a visir.' "Mehemet Ali extended his hand to him, raised him, and invited him to sit down on the divan by his side. In complying with the desire of the viceroy, Abdallah fell on his knees upon the divan before him. Mehemet soothed him by kind and paternal language: he assured him that he harboured not the least animosity, and that, forgetting the past, he considered him thenceforward as one of his sons. He made the kiaya sit down too. After coffee had been served, a pipe was handed to Abdallah; he at first refused it, but, being pressed by the viceroy, he at length took it. "After this affecting scene, his Highness made a sign ABDALLAH PACHA. 245 to those present to retire, and he remained in secret. conference with Abdallah and the kiaya for half an hour. "A palace was assigned to Abdallah near that of his Highness, who desired him to go and lie down, and to come again to see him on the next and each succeeding day. "Abdallah retired with a serene countenance, accompanied by several persons of the court, and found at the door of the palace the horse of the viceroy himself, which had been prepared for him; he asked if it was the same that Mehemet Ali rode. On receiving a reply in the affirmative, he kissed the saddle and mounted the horse, surrounded by several officers, who accompanied him on foot to the apartments destined for him, where he found a guard of honour. "The viceroy made a present to Abdallah of a handsome snuff-box, enriched with diamonds, and another in enamel, with a gold-hilted sabre. "Orders were then despatched to Cairo, to prepare a palace for the residence of Abdallah and his family, which was expected from Acre. "Throughout the scene which we have here described, Mehemet Ali displayed those noble and generous sentiments with which his great heart is endued. Clemency is one of the most glorious attributes of sovereigns, and Mehemet exhibited in all its lustre that virtue, which, combined with so many other eminent qualities that distinguish him, will render his name immortal in the annals of history." I had given Abdallah notice of my visit, and he had 246 VISIT TO ABDALLAH PACHA. replied that he should be delighted to make my acquaintance. I repaired to his residence, accompanied by our vice-consul, the chancellor, and a dragoman. The palace inhabited by Abdallah is on the island of Roudah, about four hundred paces from that occupied by his harem. We had to cross the canal to reach it. On our arrival, we found at the door about a score of slaves, some of whom had followed him hither, and the others been given to him by the viceroy. After making their obeisance, they introduced us, walking two and two before us. On reaching the divan, a young man of middling stature, elegantly though very simply dressed, advanced towards us: it was Abdallah. We should the less have supposed that it was he, because he had risen to receive us, an extraordinary and absolutely strange piece of politeness in a Turk, and still more in a pacha, who never rises to a Christian, be his rank what it may, He was extremely civil, laid his hand upon his heart, and made me sit down by his side. Immediately afterwards, refreshments were brought us, and pipes similar to the pacha's, a circumstance which I mention merely to show the very particular attention paid to our reception. Nevertheless, he appeared embarrassed: I was still more so. I was sure that among the numerous persons around us the government had some spies. The conversation was cold, constrained; I measured every word. Abdallah never ceased repeating that he was infinitely obliged by my visit. Seeing that I spoke wery little, and probably suspecting the motives of that reserve, he made a sign, and instantly all the attendants retired; but I perceived that they stopped in an adjoining apartment. VISIT TO ABDALLAH PACHA. 247 When we were left alone with Abdallah, the conversation became a little more unrestrained. He spoke at great length concerning his misfortunes, in which we appeared to sympathize. He related them with composure, and in very moderate terms. We were astonished to hear him frequently give the name of father to Mehemet Ali. This affectation led us to imagine that he, too, was fearful of being overheard; for the conduct of this Mehemet, of whom he spoke in such a filial manner, was any thing but paternal. The viceroy was far from performing what he had promised. He had engaged to grant Abdallah provisions for his household, two palaces, and an appanage. He who disposes of all property in Egypt could be at no loss for palaces and provisions; but as for the appanage, he had no means of furnishing that but by drawing upon his treasurers ; and when it came to the pinch, the generosity of the words only served to set off the avarice and the falsehood of the sentiments. The pacha has lost every thing: his household consists of more than a hundred persons, for whose various wants he is obliged to provide. No pecuniary assistance has been afforded him. He is obliged to sell every day some of his diamonds, some of the shawls of his women; he has no money but what he obtains from the desks of the brokers of Cairo -a resource which must soon be exhausted. But what is that now to Mehemet! Pleased to see his enemy at his feet, he at first deemed it serviceable to his policy to show him that sort of kindness by which the conqueror is not less flattered than the vanquished: he intended that Fame, when publishing his triumphs, should 248 VISIT TO ABDALLAH PACHA. also have to extol the loftiness of his character and his magnanimity. Now that his pride has what he desires, the rest is indifferent to him. At the conclusion of our visit, Abdallah took from his bosom a bouquet of flowers, which he graciously presented to me as a mark of his esteem. He paid us the attention, unexampled among the Mussulmans, and the more surprising in him who has the reputation of detesting the Christians, to accompany us to the door, at the same time thanking us for the honour that we had done him. I wished him happier days, and strove to persuade him that they were not far distant. He paid particular attention to my words, which seemed to cheer him ; and, to express the gratitude which they excited, he never ceased laying his hand upon his heart. I should have been touched and melted even to tears, if something frightful, something horrible, in his look had not constantly stifled within me the sentiments to which his language and manners gave birth. Never did I see such eyes as Abdallah's! They are the eyes of the captive tiger playing with his chain. They reminded me more than once in the course of the conversation of the hyena of Mount Carmel. LETTER XLVIII. ASSES AT CAIRO-MATARYEH, THE ANCIENT HELIOFOLIS SYCAMORE, UNDER WHICH THE HOLY FAMILY RESTED-FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN MARY-MONASTERY OF ST. SERGIUS-CAVERN IN WHICH THE HOLY FAMILY DWELT-THE NILOMETER-PALACE OF SCHOUBRA-SLAVEMARKET, Cairo, February, 1st, 1833. For some days after my arrival, I could not, though forewarned, conceive that in so large a city it would be |