214 VISIT TO THE PACHA. view-Mehemet Ali not only smokes, like all the Mussulmans, but he is in the habit of taking snuff. Every quarter of an hour, an officer of the chamber enters the Divan, and holds before him a gold snuff-box, with all the demonstrations of profound respect. Mehemet takes a pinch; the officer bows in silence, and retires humbly as he came. This ceremony was repeated ten or twelve times in our presence. When I went to the palace, it was easy for me to perceive, that to all the persons of Mehemet's court I was merely an object of curiosity, to whom not the least mark of honour is due at my departure, the case was totally different. The long conference, with which I had been honoured by his Highness, had produced an extraordinary impression. It was thought that the sovereign of Egypt, the powerful Mehemet, could not condescend to talk so long, and especially so familiarly, with a poor European monk, a pitiful Christian; still less were his courtiers able to conceive what he could have talked about. Each had a motive to assign for this extraordinary conference. Some had no doubt that I was an envoy, commissioned to effect a reconciliation between the monarch and the subject. I had become an important personage in the estimation of all: they crowded round me as I passed. I saw the courtiers of Alexandria do for me what I had seen the courtiers of Europe do for so many others: I was loaded with marks of civility, attention, and respect. On retiring, I called to see M. Bogos-Joussouff, a schismatic Armenian, chief dragoman to Mehemet, and director-general of the department of commerce. He is BOGOS JOUSSOUFF. 215 the prime-minister of his Highness. His power is immense. He governs all Egypt, in some measure, in the name of his master. "After visiting Pharaoh," said I, on introducing myself to him, "I am come to see Joseph." This compliment flattered him the more, because the name Joussouff, which he bears, signifies Joseph. He received me in the kindest manner. He is a man of extraordinary talents, assiduous, active, indefatigable. Mehemet Ali is affectionately attached to him. He has made him his confidant, his Mentor, through whom he conducts all affairs of state. He transacts business with him, both night and day, sometimes for three, at others four, or even five hours successively. Still this chief dragoman, this director-general, this minister, this confidant, this Mentor, even though harassed by broken rest, and dying of fatigue, never has heard, and never will hear, these kind words issue from the lips of his master: "Bogos, be seated." Let him that will be the favourite in Egypt, or, indeed, in any other country! I earnestly requested M. Bogos to have the goodness to remind his Highness of my firman, and the letters of recommendation, which he had promised me for the governors of the different provinces of Egypt; and I retired with the assurance that, very early next morning, my wishes on that head should be fulfilled. Meanwhile I hastened the preparations for my journey to Mount Sinai, having made up my mind to leave Alexandria as soon as I could set out with safety. The weather here is terrible. I had heard much about the mildness of the winter in Egypt. In the month 216 FIRMAN OF THE PACHA. that I have passed here, I have not seen one fine day : nothing but rain and severe cold; indeed more severe than I ever felt at Petersburg. There, at least, you can protect yourself from it: here the thing is impossible, no precautions being taken against it. At length I received the viceroy's firman, with a letter of recommendation for the governor of Cairo. These papers were accompanied with a translation as follows: "FIRMAN, "In the name of the Supreme Being, "The bearer of the present order (bouyrouldon) is one of the nobles of Hungary, named Father Marie Joseph de Geramb, a religious traveller, and a personage highly distinguished in the world. His object being to travel, without obstacle and opposition, from Alexandria to Cairo, and thence to Mount Sinai and its environs, by way of Suez, we have been applied to for this order, which has been graciously granted to him. With the aid of the MOST HIGH, no obstacle shall be placed in the way of his travels, and all the assistance due to friendship shall be afforded him when needful. This order, which is addressed to you, and which has been delivered to him, has been issued by us for this purpose. "In consequence you will conform to its contents, and beware of doing the contrary. "In the year 1248, the 25th of Regeb." LETTER FROM MEHEMET ALI TO HIS EXCELLENCY HABIB EFFENDI, INSPECTOR of the divan, "My brother, Habib Effendi, inspector of the Divan, "Our very dear friend, the traveller, one of the nobles DEPARTURE FROM ALEXANDRIA. 217 of Hungary, Father Marie Joseph de Geramb, wishing to visit Mount Sinai, is just setting out for Cairo. My will is that you afford him every protection; and, that he may travel safely and quietly, you will direct the sheiks to let him be accompanied by men who shall conduct him to the said place. "In the year 1248, the 26th of Regeb." My preparations are completed. To the other kindnesses which he has shown me, the consul-general of Austria has added that of lending me his tent, a thing absolutely necessary in the desert. He has also had the attention to recommend me in a particular manner to the care of an excellent janissary, who has made numerous journeys, and whom I have taken into my service. This man speaks Turkish, Arabic, and Italian, and he is equally active and courageous. His name is Mahomet. The only thing that annoys me is the show that he makes he looks like a pacha. By his side I shall appear to be but some poor devil whom his excellency is taking with him in his retinue out of charity. At any rate, it will afford me an excellent opportunity for practising humility. LETTER XLVI. DEPARTURE FROM ALEXANDRIA-CANAL OF MAMOUDIEH-THE NILEFOUAH-DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE NILE-ARAB FISHERMENDISTRESSED PASSENGERS-WRETCHED STATE OF EGYPT-CREW OF A SUNKEN VESSEL - PYRAMIDS BOULAK - CAIRO-M. CHAMPION, AUSTRIAN VICE-CONSUL-FRANCISCAN CONVENT - VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR AND THE MINISTER AT WAR VISIT TO THE CATHOLIC CLERGY. Cairo, January 16, 1833. I left Alexandria in the evening of the 6th of January, and embarked on the canal of Mamoudieh. The Aus VOL. II. L 218 CANAL OF MAMOUDIEH. trian chief dragoman had the kindness to accompany me a league from the city. Our bark had two cabins; small, it is true, but tolerably commodious. The canal of Mamoudieh is a work of Mehemet Ali's. He commenced it in 1820, for the purpose of establishing a communication between Cairo and Alexandria, and gave it the name of the prince whom he is now striving to dethrone. The works undertaken to render it navigable in all seasons have been frequently interrupted ; they are not yet completely finished. It is twelve feet deep, and about fifteen leagues in length. One hundred and thirty thousand persons were employed upon it for three years. Neither old men, women, children, were exempted, nor even pregnant women: some were delivered while at work, and others were hurt; but these accidents procured not the least indulgence, excited not the least pity. Most of them had neither mattock nor shovel, nor any other implement to work with, neither was care taken to furnish them with any: the unfortunate creatures were obliged to remove the earth with their hands. Twenty-eight thousand of them perished, owing to the heat, fatigue, or ill usage. The circumstances of cruelty which I have collected from the lips of eye-witnesses make one shudder, my pen refuses to detail them. The wind being quite favourable, we advanced rapidly. The night was magnificent: a bright moonlight enabled us to distinguish objects as well as in broad day; only, at intervals, the heaps of earth, thrown up in digging the bed of the canal, prevented the eye from embracing the whole extent of the prospect. The banks are bare: be |