Billeder på siden
PDF
ePub

of the Elizabethan style, overhangs the river, and extends along the east side of the quadrangle built by Otho Henry in 1556. A collection of portraits and relics is shown.

The English traveller must be deeply interested by the round tower, in which were the apartments of Elizabeth of England, daughter of James 1., and grand daughter of Mary Queen of Scots. It is the most complete ruin in the vast edifice, and the ivy yet climbs over the portion of the mossy wall which at present remains. The wallflower and the briar are in its innermost recesses, and the ivory turned pillars of the triumphal arch, erected in honour of her marriage by her husband Frederick V., Count Palatine, afterwards king of Bohemia. The garden attached to it was laid out for her pleasure, and is yet called Elizabethen Pforte. The council room in which her unfortunate husband consulted his nobles about accepting the crown of Bohemia is still pointed out. Elizabeth remained outside the door in an adjoining chamber. She demanded to know the decision, and when he hesitated to accept the crown, this ambitious woman exclaimed, "If you refuse to be a king, you are not worthy of having married the daughter of a king. Let me rather eat dry bread at a king's table than feast at the board of an Elector;" and she lived not only to eat, but even to beg the bread of charity with her children, "but she would be a queen!" In the cellar of this castle is the celebrated Heidelberg Tun. Its dimensions are 36 feet by 24 feet, and it is the largest wine cask in the world. It is now long since it was used, and longer since the merry waltz went round in triumph on its broad summit. It is capable of containing 800 hogsheads, and is said never to have been filled but once. It has been out of use altogether since 1769, or more than a century.

The tower called Der Gesprengte Thurm, which serves as one of the defences of the castle, though undermined and blown up by the French, did not 'fall to pieces, but fell or slid into the ditch, where it yet remains in a compact mass.

The Gardens and shrubberies surrounding the castle, and originally planned by the engineer, Solomon de Caus, are delightful in the extreme, whilst the terraces and elevations afford a variety of most interesting views. "It is, in truth, a

place of surpassing loveliness-where all the romantic wildness of German scenery is blended with the soft beauty of the Italian. An immense plain is bordered on one side by the Bergstrasse Mountains, and on the other by the range of the Vosges. Situate on the river Neckar, in a ravine of the Bergstrasse, amid mountains covered with vines, is Heidelberg. In the middle of the broad plain may be distinguished the shining spires of Mannheim, Worms, and Frankenthal; and pouring its rich stream through this luxuriant land, the beautiful and abounding Rhine receives the tribute of the Neckar."-LORD BEACONSFIELD'S Vivian Grey.

However it is from the extreme point of the terrace projecting over the Neckar, that we obtain the best general view of the castle. But a view from one point would ill repay the tourists' visit when we consider the imposing magnificence of the old ruins, and the grand, yet soft sweet beauty of the surrounding country. The heights on the right bank of the Neckar, approached from the end of the bridge by a steep path, or from Neuenheim by a more gradual ascent, should be ascended by the tourist. The hill fronting the town, reached by the path called the Philosopher's Walk, will afford a good view, as will also. in a more extensive way the Heiligenberg, a hill between the valley of the Rhine, and the Neckar. This was the point chosen by Tilly to open his trenches in the Thirty Years' War, and on its top we see the ruins of a castle.

A lovely Inn called Hirschgasse, standing fifty yards or so above the bridge, is the spot where the students' duels are fought, sometimes at the rate of four or five a day.

The Königstsühl is the loftiest hill in the district standing to the rise of the town and castle. A very extensive view may be had from its summit, which may be ascended in an hour or two's walk, or by carriage. A high tower has been erected on the spot, and the visitor would do well to ascend it and enjoy the grand prospect it commands. Beautiful indeed is the panorama, including the Rhine and the Neckar, the Odenwald and Haardt mountains on the west, the Taunus, the ridge of the Black Forest, the Castle of Eberstein, and the spire of Strassburg Cathedral, 90 miles distant.

The sun rising as witnessed from this hill is decidedly magnificent, conveying to the spectator an exhibition of celestial grandeur well worth contemplation. Never can he forget the golden ocean, irradiated by thousands of spiral shades of starlike briliancy from which the monarch of the day emerges on wings of fire illumining up the entire extent of his eastern territories. Persons anxious to witness this glorious spectacle should pass the previous night at the inn, near the top, called Kohlhof.

Above Heidelberg the banks of the Neckar afford many delightful excursions; the one to NeckarGemünd (Station), 6 miles off, from whence the tourist may prolong his route to NeckarSteinach (Inn: Die Harfe). Two miles from the castle and approached by a road overhanging the Neckar, is seen the Wolf's well, a pretty secluded spot. Here the enchantress, Jetta, who first foretold the greatness of the house of the Counts of the Palatinate was torn in pieces by a wolf. Close by is a good inn, celebrated for its trout and beer. The road along the margin of the road leads hence to Heidelberg. Two miles on the road to Darmstadt we meet with the little village of Handschuhsheim on the Bergstrasse, where there is a famous collection of Mexican antiquities. Dossenheim, 2 miles from this last village, is noted for its cherries.

On the right bank of the Neckar we see Neuenheim, a small village. Opposite, on the railway station, is a house in which Luther lodged on his way to Heidelberg, in 1518. Droskies can be hired.

Rail to Heilbronn, Stuttgard, and to Wurzburg. To Mannheim, stopping at Friedrichsfeld, the junction of the Frankfort and Darmstadt railway. The Baden railway, Heidelberg to Bâle, branches to Baden-Baden and Kehl (opposite Strassburg), trains to Carlsruhe in 1 hour; Baden, 3 hours; Kehl, 5 hours; to Freiburg, in 7 hours; to Haltringen, 4 miles from Bâle, in 9 hours. A short line to Schwetzingen (Station), p. 141, in connection with branches to Mannheim (Route 27), Speyer or Spires, and Carlsruhe, was opened 1873, and was carried on to Heidelberg (Station), p. 151, in 1874. Tourists will find the 2nd class carriages comfortable and respectable.

Steamboats on the Neckar to Heilbronn in 13 or 14 hours; descending in 7 or 8.

St. Ilgen (Station).-Quitting this station, the railroad is carried through a flat plain, bounded eastward by a range of hills, and the country through which it passes south of Heidelberg has none of the beauty of the Bergstrasse.

Wiesloch (Station). A mineral spring with a state prison called Kisslau, formerly a ducal palace.

Langenbrucken (Station)-Inn: Post.-A small place with 1,300 inhabitants. The mineral springs here range in temperature between 50° and 60° Fahrenheit, and are strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas and sulphur. There is a table d'hôte with music.

Bruchsal (Station).

Inns: Badischer Hof; Rose.

Has a population of 7,500, and was formerly the residence and property of the prince-bishops of Spires. Its chief curiosities are the episcopal palace near the gate leading to Frankfort, and the church of St. Peter with the tombs of the last bishops.

A branch rail towards Germersheim and the Rhine was opened 1875, viâ Carlsdorf, GrabenNeudorf (on the Manheim and Carlsruhe line) Huttenheim, Philippsburg, and Rheinsheim. For Germersheim, see page 144. Travellers for Munich and the Tyrol may turn off here, via Lugwigsburg, Stuttgart, &c.

Weingarten (Station).--A beautiful village with a population of 3,050 souls, where we yet see the ruins of a castle of the lords of Schmalenstein. Not far from this village lies the ancient SchlossBuehl, or the place where justice was publicly administered in the middle ages.

Durlach (Station), near a town (population, 5,000), once the capital of Baden-Durlach, and the residence of the Margraves of that branch of the reigning family since 1771, when the Baden-Baden line became extinct.

In the palace gardens are many Roman antiquities, such as altars, milestones, obliterated basreliefs. The old château is now a cavalry barrack. Rail from here to Pforzeim and Wildbad, in the Black Forest.

Passing GOTTESAU to the right, with a Castle built in the ancient style, which at present serves for an artillery and cavalry barracks, we arrive at the

CARLSRUHE (Station).

Hotels: Germania, first class, with every accommodation; Erbprinz; Englischer Hof; Pariser Hof; Goldener Adler; Grüner Hof.

Carlsruhe (population 42,770), capital of the grand-duchy of Baden, and the seat of government lies 1 league from the Rhine, in the Haartwald, or Hart forest, which bounds the town on the north and west. In 1715 a hunting-seat was built on the spot by the Margrave Charles of Baden, and to this fortuitous circumstance we may ascribe the existence of the town, now one of the finest in Germany, and containing a population of 36,582 inhabitants. The streets are regular, broad, and light; some of them afford a prospect of the neighbouring mountains, whilst others form a pleasant architectural picture. The rapidly flourishing state of the town may be dated from the time when the margraviate was raised to an electorate, and afterwards to a grand-duchy. It is built in the shape of a fan or wheel, with all the streets converging at the castle, which forms a centre. The generality of the buildings that adorn the city, were founded by the Weinbreuner and Arnold, two directors of buildings. An aqueduct conveys water through iron pipes from Durlach to Carlsruhe, and the streets are provided with trolers or fountains, serving as ornaments, whilst of great convenience.

Leaving the railway station, the tourist enters Carlsruhe by the Ettingen gate, and sees the monuments of the grand duke Karl, who died in 1313; of Lewis, who died in 1830; and of the Margrave Charles William, founder of Carlsruhe, as he passes through the street leading to the palace. The former is a bust, and the two latter are a statue and a pyramid, situated in the market place; on the east of which we see the protestant church, and the Rathhaus on the west.

The Palace or Schloss is a building presenting no very remarkable appearance. From its tower, forming the centre of all the town buildings, you have a rich and extensive prospect: from it you can distinctly trace the roads into the Haardt forest, corresponding with the streets; also the Rhine, and beyond it the Vosges mountains in France; the mountains of the Schwarzwald on the south, and those of the Bergstrasse on the north; these, with

the vast and cultivated plains within the mountain framework, form a picture well worth carrying away in the memory of those bidding adieu to Germany. Attached to the palace there is a Theatre, open three times a week. In the courtyard is a statue by Schwanthaler of the Duke Karl Frederick, who died in 1811.

The Palace Garden is a fine plantation, which on one side is contiguous to a pheasant preserve, and on the other to the Botanical Garden. The garden called Amaliensruhe, contains some very agreeable walks.

Academie Gebäude or Hall of Art, a good building, erected by Hübsch, 1843. It is constructed of grey sandstone, striped with red lines, and ornamented with frescoes by Schwind. It contains a gallery of paintings, among which is a portrait of Colbert, some Dutch paintings, and a medallion portrait of Newton, by De Witte.

The Museum, to the right of the palace, is rich in fossil remains, &c., among them is the skeleton of a mammoth, dug up at Oos. German, French, and English papers are taken in The Polytechnic School for boys was built by Hübsch, 1836. In Freidrichs Platz is a very fine Library, containing 110,000 volumes, with M S. S., coins, &c.

The Hospital is near the Muhlberg gate, and was founded and endowed with a sum of 100,000fl. by the celebrated tailor, Stultz, who was created a baron. In the Friedhof is pointed out the grave of Jung Stilling, who died in 1817, in Carlsruhe.

Rail to Maxau (on the Rhine), Landau, Pforzeim, Heilbronn, Wildbad, Stuttgart, &c.

Quitting the last station, at the distance of 2 miles, we see from the railroad on the right, BULACH, where there is a modern church, built in the Roman style by Hübsch, in 1833. Its interior is ornamented with frescoes by Dietrech, of Stuttgart.

Ettlingen (Station) lies at the opening of the Albthal, and contains a population of 4,000. Here, there are still extant, ten Roman monuments, and the remains of Roman baths. On the Alb, are a large number of paper mills.

Malsch (Station).

Muggensturm (Station).

The duchy of Baden into which we now enter is one of the richest districts in Germany, and the

[graphic][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][merged small]
« ForrigeFortsæt »