minds. The royal army on the one side, and the principal chiefs with their followers on the other, were encamped in a hostile attitude at no great distance. It is true, both parties concurred in expressions of good will toward the strangers, and a piece of ground in the neighbourhood was appropriated to their accommodation; but their minds being ill at ease, and their health affected by the change of climate or of food, they soon embraced an opportunity, gratuitously supplied to them, of returning to their native abode.

The disaffection which alarmed the Georgian islands produced results still more unhappy in the Society cluster. The chief of Tahaa, having resolved to withdraw his allegiance from the king of Raiatea, thereby gave rise to the most disastrous war which has occurred in that part of the Pacific since the introduction of Christianity. In May, 1831, the venerable Tamatoa, whose name occurs frequently in the missionary annals as an ardent friend of the new religion, fell a victim to grief and fatigue. From the moment of his conversion he appeared to be influenced by a sincere conviction of its truth; and his dying charge to his people was, to preserve the word of God with vigilance, and to be careful that it should not be driven from their shores.*

Such commotions were almost necessarily productive of dissension and indifference among the mixed multitude who professed to believe in the gospel, without fully understanding its principles or imbibing its power. At the close of 1832, accordingly, it was evident to those who viewed the general aspect of the missions, that though external ordinances were observed, those whose faith was sincere constituted only a small minority; and that there was an obvious line drawn between true and ostensible believers, who formed two separate classes which had little in common. That this unfortunate distinction should have taken place, can not be matter of surprise to those who have estimated the causes of deterioration which had been allowed to operate. Exposed to the evil communication which corrupteth good manners, the flexible mind of the soft barbarian could not resist the powerful temptation which assailed his principles through his appetites. A flood-gate for the practice of iniquity was thus opened, while the unconfirmed conscience, not accustomed to the finer

Missionary Records, p. 315. Tamatoa is known to have written several letters to the London Missionary Society, beside others to private correspondents in England.

distinctions which separate virtue from vice, supplicd an argument to the sinner that, though guilty, he might escape punishment. Those who, during this period of trial, had no root in themselves, naturally fell away; and others, who were strangers to any higher principle than regard for the opinion of the world, returned in haste, like the sow that was washed, to wallow in the mire. The churches were afflicted by a partial defection; the enemy triumphed, and the friend of religion mourned over the catastrophe. Such details as have reached this country since the date just mentioned will be communicated to the reader in a subsequent chapter.

CHAPTER V.

Marquesas, Low Archipelago, and Austral Islands.

Marquesas discovered by Mendana-Description-Climate-Inhabitants-Intercourse with Spaniards-Cruelty practised by Manriquez -Visit of Captain Cook in 1774-One of the natives killed-The Dædalus arrives at Santa Christina-Attack on an officer-The Duff touches at the Marquesas and lands two Missionaries-Despondency of one of them-Mission renewed and abandoned-Voyage of the Olive Branch-Missionaries from the Sandwich Islands-Notice by Mr. Bennet, of the Tuscan-Visit of Captain Waldegrave-Character of the people in the Low Archipelago-Form of the IslandsJustly called "Dangerous"-Whence peopled-Gambier IslandsInhabitants seek refuge in the Georgian Group-Conversion to Christianity-Violence inflicted on Missionaries-Their Religion and Manners-Incident on Island of Byam Martin-Bow Island-Pitcairn's Island-Account of John Adams and Family-Visit of Christian and Young-The domestic and religious Habits of the People-Visited by Captain Beechey-Austral Isles-Rapa Chapel and School-Raiva vai-Church organized-Toobouai-Inhabitants converted-Rurutoo -Docility of Natives-Rimatara-Advance in Civilization-New Islands discovered.

Ir is obvious that, in most cases, the lines which separate the several clusters of islands must be to a great extent imaginary, because there are no natural boundaries, or even characteristic distinctions, whereby their precise position might be determined. There is, notwithstanding, a certain convenience in describing them under particular heads, inasmuch as, while following out this principle, we are naturally led to mark the date of their discovery, the geological features connected with their supposed origin, and the peculiarities of the people by whom they are respectively inhabited.

The Marquesas were first visited in 1595 by a Spanish navigator, Alvaro Mendana de Neyra, who, in compliment to a man of rank, gave them the name which they continue to bear. They extend about two hundred miles in a northwest and southeast direction, and are situated between lat. 10° 30′ and 7° 50' S., and long. 139° and 141° W. A wide channel divides them into two groups, of which the southeastern contains

five, and the southwestern eight; the latter, having been seen by the Americans in 1797, are sometimes denominated Washington islands. An elevated ridge of mountains pervades them all in the direction of their length, and in the larger ones rises to an elevation of 2,000 or 3,000 feet. These eminences have on both sides high offsets or branches, which extend to the shores of the ocean, and thus divide the low land into valleys, which have no communication with one another except across the intervening hills. The coast is rocky, steep, and beaten by a continual surf; there being no coral reef to protect it from the heavy surge which characterizes the Pacific. There are, however, numerous harbours in both sections of the Marquesas, especially those of Anna Maria and Comptroller's bay, to which may be added the one named Resolution, to commemorate the arrival of the celebrated Cook.

The climate, though somewhat hot, is considered very healthy. The thermometer ranges from 60° to 80° of Fahrenheit; and when the sun is northward of the equator, there is usually abundance of rain. Thunder-storms rarely occur. As might be anticipated, the prevailing wind is from the east, more especially during the autumnal months; but northern breezes are not uncommon in summer, while in winter they proceed generally from the southwest. The fruit-trees are chiefly the cocoanut, bread-fruit, and papaw, a species of fig, though the inhabitants alsò cultivate bananas, plantains, and sweet potatoes. Their garments are derived from the bark of the mulberry-tree, in preference to cotton, which grows in abundance, and is greatly superior to that cultivated in other parts of the South sea. Sugar and tobacco might also be produced in large quantities, as the plants are strong, and of an excellent quality.

There is no doubt that the natives are of the same lineage with the other tribes who occupy the neighbouring islands, as far westward at least as the Fijees; of which their language and bodily conformation supply the most undoubted proof. Their complexion resembles the colour of dark copper; the women presenting a teint considerably lighter than that of the men. Some of the earlier navigators speak highly of their figure, as being a perfect model of symmetry in the human frame; but later travellers do not confirm this opinion, while it is admitted that the difference of stature is greater among them than in any other part of the world. They excel in the

art of tattooing the body, the persons of some of their chiefs being covered all over with regular figures of the most tasteful patterns. It is to be regretted, at the same time, that they still labour under the horrible imputation of being cannibals both when they feel inclined to glut their revenge after a battle, and also on certain occasions when superstition may seem to warrant the gratification of their unnatural appetite. It is much to be regretted that the first European visiters did not teach them by example either forbearance or self-denial. When the squadron under Mendana approached the coast of the island, which he afterward called Santa Christina, the natives, in their canoes or by swimming, presented themselves to the number of seventy at the side of his ships. As their manners were gentle and unobtrusive, the admiral resolved to send a boat ashore for the purpose of examining the new country to which fortune had carried him; and intrusting this duty to Manriquez, one of his officers, he waited the issue with some degree of anxiety. The Spaniard advanced with military music, hoping thereby to attract a greater degree of attention; but the inhabitants, alarmed, perhaps, at this unwonted display of power, did not stir from their houses till they were called, when about three hundred, men and women, obeyed the summons in the quietest manner. Being desired to bring water, they produced a small quantity in cocoanut shells, and likewise fruit of various kinds. The soldiers requiring more water, put into the hands of the ignorant savages several jars or pitchers which they had brought with the intention of procuring a supply of this necessary of life; and the simple people, either imagin ing that they were allowed to keep them, or yielding to the thievish propensity which persons in their primitive condition have been always found to manifest, carried away the coveted vessels. Manriquez ordered his men to fire upon them; a cruel and injudicious resolution to inflict a severe punishment where there was no real crime.

Three days afterward, Mendana himself landed, having brought his squadron to anchor in the harbour. Mass was immediately celebrated on the shore; a spectacle which, though it arrested the attention of the natives, called not forth any observation, nor led to any movement on their part. The commander next proceeded to take formal possession of their island, in the name of the king,—a ceremony seldom omitted at that period; and, being desirous of establishing a friendly