I they rubbed my foot, and he sat by my side until the calise arrived, which was at ten o'clock. I can truly say of these people that they retain until the present day that which St. Paul said of them when shipwrecked here, which was, that they "showed us no-little kindness." On the arrival of the calise two men contested for the privilege of escorting me to Valetta, one of whom was my old and hospitable host. However, the man appointed by my friend Mr. S. had the prior claim, and the old man contented himself with running for a mile or two by the side of the conveyance. made him a small present, and he came to the window of the calise to kiss my hand, which is the common custom among the natives on taking leave of a stranger. The lightning was very vivid as we proceeded homewards, and the air extremely sultry. We arrived at Valetta shortly before midnight, and on entering the Porta Bombe I met my friend Mr. S. who had sallied out in search of me. On reaching my lodgings I found my kind landlord awaiting my return, and on learning that I had met with an accident, he immediately showed me every possible kindness and attention. Thus ended the expedition to Hajar Kim, which, fortunately for me, was attended with no worse effects than a sprained ankle; but as I found that it would be impossible for me to walk the next morning, I arranged a plan for visiting Mellieha and St. Paul's Bay, with Fabreschi, who agreed to order the boat and get provisions ready by sunrise. CHAPTER XI. EXCURSION TO ST. PAUL'S BAY, MELLIEHA, AND THE GROTTO OF CALYPSO. "The white clouds are driving merrily, More willingly our return to-night. List, my dear fellow, the breeze blows fair; As usual, a lovely morning broke over Malta, and ere the sun was well up above the azure bosom of the Mediterranean, the boat was all ready for our voyage. Fabreschi had paid a visit to the market, where he laid in a stock of provisions for the day for ourselves and the boatmen. We hastened to the Marina, and soon found ourselves seated beneath a canopy of blue striped cotton in one of the native flat-bottomed boats. Two boys brought our provisions, which consisted of bread and goat's cheese, melons, and a large keg filled with black and white grapes, as well as some Sicilian wine, and an immense bundle of celery for the men. After a short delay caused by filling up our water jars, I desired the boatmen to pull across to the schooner "Prospero," sending an invitation to the captain and his wife to accompany us; they were, however, prevented doing so, and we started at once on our excursion, calling for a pass at the Pratique office, which was easily obtained. As the wind was favourable we sailed first into San Julian's Bay, passing by Sliema, where most of the English inhabitants reside. This village is prettily situated close to the water's edge, and is considered to be one of the healthiest spots in Malta. The houses are light and cheerful, and some of them are painted green and washed with various colours, which give them a very gay appearance. The wind ceased to favour us on our entering St. Julian's Bay and the men took to the oars, which, however, they used in a very lazy kind of manner. We landed at the innermost part of the bay, where there was a small sandy beach. Here I found numbers of small beetles (Cicindela); they were in incessant motion. I managed, however, to secure several of them; and whilst thus employed I desired the men to seek for shells among the sand. After digging for some time, they could find nothing; but they gave me to understand that we should meet with some in Mellieha Bay. We again entered the boat, and made the best of our way to the next place of interest. St. Julian's is a pretty spot, very secluded, and more picturesque than most parts of Malta. A statue of the saint adorns the beach, near which rises a small spring of limped water, at which we quenched our thirst. use. Passing by St. George's Bay, we arrived at the Bay of the salt works. As I was very desirous to see the method of preparing the salt from the sea water by evaporation in the sun, we landed on some sharp rocks, and soon found ourselves in the midst of the salt pans. Large heaps of crystallized salt of snowy whiteness lay sparkling in the sun, and several men and boys were collecting it into baskets for They seemed to care but little about clothing, and one lad had nothing on but a ragged shirt. After recrossing the rocks, and furnishing ourselves with a supply of these glittering salt crystals, we again got on board and steered for St. Paul's Bay. We arrived about noon, and rowing to the Fort, showed our pass to the soldier on guard, who hailed us on landing. After searching for a shaded spot where we could enjoy our noontide repast, sheltered from the heat, we found a small sandy bank protected by the ruined wall of a stone building. After mooring our boat in a clear deep pool carpeted with green feathery sea-weed, we carried up our stores and proceeded to our repast. I had scarcely eaten a mouthful of grapes before the sand on which we were reposing was actually darkened with flies. It was in vain to drive them off, for the troublesome tormentors only returned in greater numbers, and with more audacity than before, till at last they resembled the old plague of Egypt, and fairly drove us back again to the boat; leaving them to feed on the grape-skin relics of our repast. We desired the men to pull along the shore to meet us, whilst we walked over the sand to the chapel of St. Paul, which is said to be erected over the very spot where the natives kindled the fire when the apostle was shipwrecked on this island. The scanty shrubs that grew on the beach were spangled with the coloured moth I have before described as being so very abundant; and at every step we took they rose in rich-coloured clouds upon the air. On reaching the entrance of the chapel we paused, for instead of beholding St. Paul in the doorway, we encountered a burly Maltese officer sitting at his dinner in the outer chamber of the sacred edifice, and doing ample justice to an enormous dish of boiled maccaroni. I bowed, and the officer looking up for a moment from his interesting occupation, returned my salutation. We requested permission to inspect the chapel, which was immediately granted to us, and we were invited to walk in. The only remarkable object in this small edifice is a very old painting, or rather series of paintings, around the altar-piece, descriptive of the shipwreck of St. Paul, (Acts xxviii.) The walls were whitewashed, and against one side stood an affair which I was assured contained every article relating to the sufferings and death of Christ. EXCURSION TO ST. PAUL'S BAY, ETC. 45 We left the chapel, and descending the sandy beach, took our seats once more in the boat, and steered across the bay to examine the caverns on the opposite side. We passed a narrow channel inside the little island of Selmone, so shallow that we could easily see the bottom, when the bay of Mellieha opened to view. The wind blew fresh as we rounded the cape, but before we had proceeded far into the bay, the land so sheltered it that it fell nearly a complete calm, and our boatmen had once more recourse to their oars. At the extreme end of the bay the water was shallow for a considerable way out, and floored with fine white sand. Here we landed, and I enjoyed a delightful bathe. We searched for shells but found very few. A number of small compact balls of sea-weed lay strewn along the sand, and at a little distance from the shore grew quantities of a bright yellow flower, somewhat resembling the camomile blossom. Our next object of search was the church and village of Mellieha, which are situated at the head of a deep and rugged ravine stretching from the shore. As the wind blew quite contrary for our returning to Valetta, and I did not wish to be all night tossing about off so dangerous a coast, I dismissed the boatmen, and ascended the ravine, hoping to find at the village a calise, or, perhaps, a cart. Half way up is a small tank filled with water, which filters out of the limestone rock, and falls down the ravine towards the sea. This little stream is embowered with canes, and other masses of luxuriant vegetation, as far as the salutary influence of its waters extends. The foliage around was rich and beautiful; the cicada sang long and loud from the dark green carob and fig trees, as we ascended the winding path that led to the village; the sun was low in the western horizon, the tired butterfly folded his wings on the stone wall, and the lizard hastened to its hole. Around the tank were grouped a number of tall darkeyed girls, filling their earthen jars with water, and, poising them on their heads as the Arab and Hindoo maidens are wont to do, they wound up the hill towards their homes, forming picturesque objects as they wandered farther away from the spectator. On arriving at the village we found the sacristan who kept charge of the keys of the church, which we were desirous of visiting. Before the door was an enclosure containing some olive trees, and several statues were dispersed along the walls. On entering we were followed by one or two of the peasants, and a fat old man who took a vast deal of trouble to explain to me the various pictures, offerings, and relics in the church. He could speak a few words of broken English, and with such assistance of this sort as he could render me, he told me a long story about a number of bishops whose forms and portraits were painted on the ceiling; but I could make little of it. At first I took him for the village blacksmith, then I believed that he might be a priest in his dishabille; but at last I discovered that he was from the neighbourhood of Valetta, and that he had a calise in the village, in which he was about to return home. He kindly offered me a seat in it, which I accepted; but we informed him that ere we returned to Valetta, we must visit the Grotto of Calypso, a short distance off. He readily agreed to wait for us, but when we came back he was gone. We found a vast number of absurd pictures hung up in one part of the church. Upon inquiry, we learned that these were placed there by mariners and boatmen, who, when overtaken by a storm, invariably make a vow to the Virgin, that if saved they will hang up a painting at her shrine, in Mellieha church. The result of all this is, that the majority of these native offerings are of an exceedingly ludicrous nature; they consist chiefly of representations of a vessel nearly engulfed by the rising waves, with the Virgin and Child appearing in the sky in the left hand corner of the picture. The church contains many other relics reckoned precious, but which are, in reality, very absurd; such as silver and waxen limbs, pieces of old cable, chains and fetters, and various other incongruous articles. We were sadly disappointed at not being able to see an original painting of St. Paul, said to have been the work of St. Luke, and which these simple people assert is under the church! Having viewed all that was worth notice here we set off for the Grotto of Calypso. Three ragged boys volunteered their services as our guides, and after leading us over a very steep and rugged path, they brought us to a series of small caves in the side of a hill, which commanded an extensive view of the sea, and the places towards Marfa. The most distant of these holes they describe as being the Calypso; but what was my astonishment on finding, instead of the cave of the goddess so enchantingly sung by Homer, only a miserable hovel, a complete pigsty! To serve still further to dispel the poetical illusion, our approach was signalized by the exit of three or four pigs, and a black donkey. I managed, however, to get clear of the live stock, and with the aid of my pencil and sketch book, I endeavoured to make the best sketch of it I could; though I must confess to having suffered a terrible mortification in finding the sacred cave employed for so unpoetical a purpose. I made one of our youthful guides sit on a stone whilst I introduced him into my picture, a circumstance which was the cause of no little merriment to him. I rewarded this "sitter" with a penny, upon which the other two immediately came forward, and very civilly gave me to understand that they wished to have their portraits also taken in a similar manner. This was an honour which I respectfully declined; and the "douceur" of one penny each satisfied all their lingering scruples, and we returned to Mellieha, hoping to get a ride home in the calise. We found, however, that the fat man had started without us, and we therefore hired a cart, the only conveyance that was to be obtained. Whilst it was getting ready we visited the Grotto della Madonna, a small cavern just below the church, in which is a spring of water, in the centre of which stands a stone statue of the Virgin. There is a miraculous report respecting this said statue, to the effect that it has been frequently taken up and offered a more respect |