Outskirts and Environs. At the distance of a mile from the barrier of the town, on the left bank of the Elbe, on the way to Pirna, lies the Grosse Garten, a large park filled with fine trees, rather monotonously arranged, and containing several coffee-houses, to which people resort in summer, especially when attracted by a very good band, which often plays here.

About a mile S. E. of the town, and half a mile from the great garden, amidst fields and slopes, which were the "scenes of the combats and bombardment preceding the retreat of the French to Leipsig," immediately behind the small village of Räcknitz, is the Monument of Moreau.

A large square block of granite, surmounted by a helmet, has been erected on the spot where he received his mortal wound. His two legs, which were separated from his body by a cannonball, are buried here, but his body was conveyed to St. Petersburg. The inscription says, "Moreau, the hero, fell here, by the side of Alexander, 27th August, 1813." The view of Dresden from this point is very good.

On the rt. bank of the Elbe, nearly a mile distant from the outskirts of the Neustadt, in the Churchyard (Neustadter Kirchhof), is a re

presentation of the Dance of Death (Todten Tanz); a procession of 27 figures, in several groups, each headed by the skeleton king, who drags on rather roughly, and with a triumphant air, the unwilling throng, composed of persons of all ranks, ages, and professions. This rude carving, in relief, is of no greater antiquity than 1534. It has now become the more curious, since the original Dance of Death exists no longer at Basle.

Tiedge the poet, and Adelung the celebrated philologist, are buried in this churchyard: Weber the composer, who died in London, and whose body was removed from Moorfields in 1844, and Frederick Schlegel, lie in the Catholic churchyard in the Frederichstadt.

The rt. bank of the Elbe, above Dresden, rises in picturesque hills from the edge of the river. These are topped with rich woods, while their lower slopes, turned to the southern sun, are covered with vineyards, and form a continuation of the Saxon wine district, which begins at Meissen, and extends up to Pillnitz. These sunny slopes are dotted over with neat white villas, in the midst of pleasure-grounds - the retreats of opulent industry. Here also have been established several places of public resort, somewhat between a tea-garden, coffee-house, and tavern, such as are always to be found in the neighbourhood of a German large town. (§ 37.)

Such are the Baths of Link (Linkische Bad), an establishment comprising an inn, situated about half a mile from the outskirts of the New town, on the borders of the Elbe, in a very rural spot, with a garden abounding in alcoves; a Theatre, where dramatic performances take place in summer; and a mineral spring, with baths, which give the name to the spot. In summer afternoons, especially on Sundays, many

hundred persons assemble here to take their ice, beer, or coffee to dance, or listen to the music of an excellent band.

There is a very pleasant foot-road from this, along the vine-clad hills, and by the Elbe side, nearly all the way to Pillnitz.

Following the carriage road, about 3 m. from the Baths of Link, and 14 m. from the point where the postroad to Bautzen (p. 418.) turns off on the 1. above Loschewitz, a small red-tiled, dilapidated summer-house is seen, in the midst of a vineyard, close to the road. This was for some time the retreat of Schiller, who wrote the greater part of his "Don Carlos" in it.

The building was lent to him by

stein, which might easily be accomplished in a carriage with 2 horses (a Dresden fiacre would do), in 12 or 14 hours; breakfasting in the inn at the Bastei, crossing the Elbe by ferry at Schandau, dining at Königstein, and returning before night to Dresden. Another mode of exploring it, which would occupy more than 2 days, is to take steamer or the Eilwagen to Schandau, walk thence to the Winterberg, and descend the Elbe in a boat from Hirniskretschen to Dresden, stopping by the way to visit the most interesting spots on the Elbe banks.

ROUTE 88.

LAND (A).

The village immediately opposite Loschewitz, called Blasewitz, has been rendered famous by Schiller, who has named the female suttler in the camp of Wallenstein, Gustel of Blazewitz the said Gustel being a real person who, in the poet's time, used to sell cakes at the inn close to the ferry. This is indeed a classical neighbourhood; for before reaching Pillnitz, near the village of Hosterwitz, is the house in which C. M. von Weber composed his operas of "Der Freischutz" and "Oberon." It is the first house on the right, close to the road, after you pass an avenue of poplars running at right angles to the road. It is surrounded by walled vineyards.

The excursion to the romantic Plauensche Grund and the village of Tharand is described in Rte. 90.

DRESDEN TO PILLNITZ, THE BASTEI, SCHANDAU, KUHSTALL, PREBISCH THOR, AND HERNISKRetschen.

General Information.-The district called the "Saxon Switzerland" begins about 8 m. above Dresden, and extends beyond the Bohemian frontier. The name of "Switzerland" is not altogether appropriate, as the scenery of the two countries is very different, and it may perhaps lead to exaggerated expectations, and comparisons disadvantageous to the Switzerland of Saxony. It has none of the glaciers, or snows, serrated ridges, and granite peaks of the real Switzerland, and its mountains are of very inferior height; but it has scenery so peculiar, and so unlike what is found elsewhere, that though it falls short, in sublimity, to that country, the Saxon Switzerland may be visited with surprise and gratification even by those who are acquainted with it. The river Elbe flows through the centre of it, and its banks are more interesting in this part of its course than in any other between its source and the sea.

tains become more lofty and bare; the majestic river, quitting at length the rugged and mountainous course which has hemmed him in from his birth in the Mountains of the Giant, and destined to visit, throughout the rest of his career, only scenes of industry and fertility, comes forth rejoicing from the gorges which you are about to enter. From this point up to the frontiers of Bohemia, the rocks in the neighbourhood of the river, principally on the right bank, consisting of a coarse-grained sandstone, are cut in all directions into gorges, as if the chisel had been used to hew passages through them. They should rather be called lanes, so narrow are they, so deeply sunk, and so smoothly perpendicular do the gigantic walls of rock rise on both sides. The walls themselves are cut vertically into separate masses, by narrow openings reaching from the summit to the very bottom, as if a cement, which once united them, had been washed away. These perpendicular masses, again, are divided and grooved horizontally into layers, or apparent layers, like blocks regularly laid upon each other to form the wall. The extremities are seldom sharp or angular, but almost always rounded, betraying the continued action of water. They generally terminate in some singular form. Some have a huge rounded mass reclining on their summit, which appears scarcely broad enough to poise it; others have a more regular mass laid upon them, like the astragal of a Doric pillar; others assume the form of inverted pyramids, increasing in breadth as they shoot higher into the air. Occasionally they present a still more singular appearance; for, after tapering in a conical form to a certain elevation, they begin to dilate again as they rise higher, as if an inverted truncated cone were placed on right truncated cone, resembling exactly, but on an infinitely greater scale, what often occurs in caverns,

a

where the descending stalactite rests on an ascending stalagmite.”— Russel's Germany.

The rock of this district, which exhibits these phenomena, is the Quadersandstein of German geologists, agreeing with the green-sand formation of England. "It crumbles down into a soil soft to the feet, and of sufficient consistency not to be deep or heavy, affording the easiest and least fatiguing walking to the pedestrian. It is difficult to tire in such a country, where there is also abundance of shades and delicious water in every valley."-F. S.

Many of the gorges, or narrow valleys, above described, are inaccessible in carriages, so that the entire tour of the Saxon Switzerland can only be made on foot. Nevertheless, most of the finest scenes lie within the distance of a short walk from some carriage road; and notice is taken in the following route of those spots where travellers may leave their carriage, and of others to which it may be sent round to meet them. found at the principal inns of the district, who will conduct strangers to the most interesting spots, by the shortest ways. A thaler a day is the usual trinkgeld.

Guides may be

All that is best worth noticing is described in the following routes, and may be seen in three days by a person who does not object to rise early, and who is moderately strong a-foot. On the first day, he may breakfast or dine at the Bastei. The baths of Schandau afford good sleeping accommodation, and may be chosen for the restingplace for the first and second nights, and Dresden may be reached early on the third evening. Pedestrians, who make the whole journey on foot, will require 4 days, or at least 3 and a half, and will find the best lodgings to be, for the 1st night, the Bastei; 2nd, Great Winterberg; 3d, Schandau or Königstein: but as the roads from Dresden to Pillnitz, or Pirna, are dull and flat, it is best to pass over

them in a carriage, or to take the steamer on the Elbe. Donkies, ponies, and chaises-à-porteurs may be hired at all the principal stations for ladies and those who cannot walk. The mode of travelling may be agreeably varied on returning, by descending the Elbe in the steamer, or in boats called Gondeln, which may be hired in the towns and villages along the banks. An Eilwagen goes four times a week in summer, from Dresden to Schandau, by Pirna and Königstein.

A visit to the Saxon Switzerland is now facilitated by the introduction of Steamers on the Elbe by Mr. Andrews, the same enterprising Englishman to whom is due the merit of first opening the steam navigation of the Danube. Steamers. The Saxon boat starts from Dresden every morning at 8, gets to Schandau about 11, and to Tetschen at 21 p. m. It goes no higher, returning at 2-3 p.m. and reaching Dresden before dusk. The Bohemian boat starts twice a week at 6 a. m., reaches Tetschen about 1, and ascends to within about 14 m. of Prague, which city may be reached at 7 p. m. It is not allowed to set down passengers within the Saxon dominions. The steamers ply during summer, when the depth of water permits, as far up as Prague, touching at Pillnitz, Schandau, and Tetschen.

"An abbreviated Tour might satisfy many already acquainted with mountain scenery, who wish to see as much of the Saxon Switzerland as can be contained in an enlarged circuit from Dresden to Toeplitz. By leaving Dresden in the morning by carriage to Pirna, crossing the Elbe, and walking through Ottowald, the Bastei may be gained before noon. The traveller may dine, and either cross the Elbe, and see the highly interesting fortress of Königstein, and then recross it to Schandau, or may walk to Hochstein and Hohnstein, and thence by the Brand reach Schan

dau early, and spend the evening in its agreeable neighbourhood.

"Next day he may visit the Kuhstall and Prebisch-thor with the Great Winterberg; then return to the Elbe at Herniskretschen, and follow the banks to Tetschen, whence by taking a carriage he may easily reach Toeplitz in the evening."— Pr. F.

There are 2 roads from Dresden to Pillnitz. 1st. A carriage-road, and the shortest of the two, on the 1. side of the Elbe, by the village of Striessen, Tolkewitz, past Laubegast,` to the flying-bridge, by which a communication is established with Pillnitz during the residence of the royal family, from May to the end of September. At other times, carriages are ferried over in boats. 2d, The other road along the rt. bank of the Elbe, passing the baths of Link, Findlater's vineyard, and Loschewitz (described at page 462.), is not so good for carriages, and is also longer than the first, but it is more picturesque and interesting.

Pillnitz (Inn and restaurant near the palace, in summer) is the resi dence of the Court of Saxony from May to September. The Palace, built 1818, in the place of a previous one destroyed by fire, is not very imposing externally, but it contains some very good modern frescoes by the Saxon artist Vogel: those in the Great Saloon represent the Arts-Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, and Music. The chapel is adorned with several subjects by the same artist, exhibiting more of the refined conception and bold execution of the old masters than is usually found in modern works of this class. During the residence of the Court, strangers can be admitted at before 3 to a gallery in the dining-hall to see the royal party at dinner: offering the only instance at the present time in Europe of a sovereign dining in public: the gallery is usually filled."-L. M. r. Pillnitz was the place of meeting of a

Congress of Sovereigns, in 1791, including the Emperor Leopold II., Frederick William II. of Prussia, the Duc d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.), Calonne, and many French exiles, who projected a crusade against revolutionary France as the means of reinstating the Bourbons on its throne. There are gardens and hot-houses attached to the palace, and agreeable walks along the heights above pleasure-grounds. The Porsberg, an hour's walk, commands fine prospects.

Beyond Pillnitz, the carriage-road quits the bank of the Elbe, and proceeds along an avenue of trees, through the village of Ober Boyritz, to Loh.men. The road to Lohmen lies by the side of one of those glens or gorges for which this country is remarkable, called Liebethaler Grund. Though pretty, it is inferior in beauty to many others; so that persons pressed for time may reserve themselves for the Ottowalder Grund on the other side of Lohmen. It takes about 2 hours to walk through the Liebethaler Grund, and carriages may be sent round to Lohmen. A beautiful stream runs, or rather rolls down the glen, leaving scarcely room to walk by the side. The path passes large quarries, from which millstones are obtained, and leads up the glen as far as the Lochmühle, a mill sunk deep in the gorge, and wedged in between perpendicular cliffs. The path lies through the miller's house, where refreshments may be obtained; and then, ascending out of the gorge by a flight of some 180 steps, proceeds along the top of the cliffs, by Dauba, to

Lohmen, a small village with a poor country inn, and an old castle on the brink of a precipice, from which a peasant is said to have fallen while asleep into the depth below, and to have recovered from his injuries.

After traversing the greater part of the long village of Lohmen, a footpath turns off suddenly to the rt. to Ottowalde, or Uttewalde, distant 2 miles. The Ottowalder Grund, an

other ravine, also to be traversed only on foot, and which no one should omit to explore, is remarkable for the height of its sides and the narrow space separating its walls asunder, so that the sun scarce penetrates into its depths. It possesses some remarkable objects: 1st. Das Thor, "the gate; where 3 large cubic-shaped masses of rock, having fallen from above, are jammed in between them so as to form a natural roof, under which, as under an arch, the traveller must pass. Then comes the" Stone House," being various large masses of rock exactly resembling the roof of a house. 3dly, Teufels Küche, or "Devil's Kitchen," a large natural excavation, which puts one in mind of the Abbot's Kitchen at Glastonbury. Shortly after this, the ravine divides into 2 ways: the rt. leads to Wehlen; the 1. hand path emerging from the Ottowalder Grund, crosses the carriage-road from Dresden and Lohmen, and brings you direct to the verge of the gigantic precipice called THE BASTEI, or Bastion; close to which there is a tolerable Inn, much thronged, however, in summer.

The Bastei, from which is obtained by far the finest view in the whole district" is the name given to one of the largest masses of rock which rise close by the river on the rt. bank. One narrow block, on the very summit, projects into the air. Perched on this, not on, but beyond, the brink of this precipice, you command a prospect which, in its kind, is unique in Europe. You hover on the pinnacle, at an elevation of more than 600 feet above the Elbe, which sweeps round the bottom of the precipice. Behind, and up along the winding river on the same bank, rise similar precipitous cliffs, cut and intersected like those already described. From the farther bank, the plain gradually elevates itself into an irregular amphitheatre, terminated by a lofty, but rounded range of mountains. The striking feature is, that, in the bosom of this amphitheatre a plain of the most varied beauty,