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Dresden to Breslau The RIESENGEBIRGE-Berlin to Hirschberg, Warmbrunn, Schmiedeberg

Landshut and Adersbach

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PAGE 418

84. TheRIESENGEBIRGE-Breslau to Schweidnitz, Trautenau, and Prague

84 a. Dresden to Zittau, and

420

425

Reichenberg, by Herrnhut - 426 85. Breslau to Prague, by Glatz 428

Cistercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen of N. German Gothic, in tolerable preservation, now a Government building, and several small lakes, are passed.

3 Angermunde stat., on a lake called the Munde, has 3000 inhabs.

23 G. m. from this, on the Oder, lies Schwedt. (Inn, Deutsches Haus.) a town of 4600 inhabs.; many of them are descendants of French emigrants, and a portion are Jews. The Palace was originally the residence of a branch of the family of Markgraves of Brandenburg, now extinct. Their summer palace Montplaisir lies at the termination of an avenue 2 miles from the town. One of the Markgraves and his wife are buried in granite coffins in the French Church.

3 Passow St. The railway is

3 Tantow St. S carried partly on embankments along the vallies of the Randow and Welse. On the rt. views are obtained of the lake of

Damm, formed by the Oder spreading out into a broad sheet of water behind it. The railway is carried through the fortifications to reach the terminus at

3 Stettin (Inns: H. de Prusse, in the Louisen Strasse; Drei Kronen), a flourishing town, where there is little to see; it is the capital of Pomerania, upon the bank of the Oder, but connected by bridges with the suburb Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has 32,000 inhab., including the garrison, and is remarkable as a strong fortress and place of considerable commerce, being the outlet for the manufactures of Silesia conveyed down the Oder from Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depôt for foreign goods required to supply that province as well as the metropolis of Prussia. About 1000 vessels enter the port yearly, and 160 belong to it. Churches: the Schloss Kirche contains the tombs of the old Dukes of Pomerania. The Wall Kirche is the oldest in Pomerania, built in 1124. From the tower of St. Jacobi, built 1187, there is a fine view of the city and the river. The Schloss, built 1577, and now converted into government offices, was the residence of the Dukes of Pomerania, who died out 1637. At the Peace of Westphalia Stettin was given over to Sweden, and by that of Stockholm,1720,transferred to Prussia. The Rathhaus dates from 1245. In the Königsplatz is a marble statue of Frederick the Great, by Schadow. In the Marienplatz is the New Gymnasium, to which an observatory, library, and museum are attached. Two empresses of Russia were born here Catherine the Great (1729), and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the Emperor Paul (1759). There is a handsome new Börse, and a Theatre here. The chief Promenade is the Plantage, outside the Anclam Gate. An English Consul resides at Stettin.

The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, in four branches, discharges itself into a large lake called the Haff; this again communicates with the Baltic

by 3 mouths, which form the 2 large islands, Usedom, on which lies Swinemünde, and Wollin.

Steamers once a week to Copenhagen in 24 hours;-every Saturday to Putbus in Rügen, returning the following Monday (Rte. 76.); - 3 times a week in summer, in 6 hours, between Stettin and

Swinemünde.- Inns: Olthoff's; Kron Prinz. This town, of 3500 inhab., has latterly acquired importance from the improvements made in its harbour, which have rendered it the outport of Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily very shallow, but extensive moles and works have been erected to remedy this defect, and it is now capable of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 ft. water to unload their cargoes, which are transported to Stettin in lighters. Swinemünde stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon an island between it and the salt lake called Stettiner Haff, separated from the main land by the Swine and other mouths or channels through which the Oder empties itself into the sea.

About 1 mile from the town, and separated from it by a wood, lie the Sea Baths of Swinemünde, consisting of a Bath-house and an Assemblyroom (Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is a daily table-d'hôte dinner at

one.

Visitors usually lodge at the inns in the town.

Distinct spots, separated by considerable intervals, are marked out on the sea-shore as bathing places for ladies and gentlemen. At the one extremity men are allowed to bathe without bathing-machines or covered cabinets; at the opposite end the females enjoy the same privileges, and between these remote spots are ranged bathing-machines for either sex.

Jomsburg, the capital of a Pagan republic, described by chroniclers as the greatest city of Europe in the 11th century, stood on an island at the mouth of the Oder. Its exact site is not determined.

It was upon this island of Usedom,

on the 24th of June 1630, that the Champion of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the shore, he fell on his knees, and after a short prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a spade with his own hand to show them the example. When tidings of this event were brought to the Emperor Ferdinand, he made light of the matter, sarcastically terming the Swedish leader, " a snow-king, who would melt as the summer drew near, and as he advanced towards a more southern climate. " The following year 6000 English volunteers (among whom must have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived on this spot to reinforce Gustavus.

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Stettin to Danzig, 46 Pruss. m. 121 Eng. m. Schnellpost twice a week in 33 hours. An excellent macadamised Post road, running nearly parallel with the shore of the Baltic. It is carried across the 4 branches of the Oder along a dam of masonry 42 m. long, and over 3 long and 20 shorter bridges, to

1 Alt-Damm, a town and fortress on the right bank of the Oder.

1 Hornkrug.

2 Gollnow.

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Rügen, the largest island belonging Germany, is situated in the Baltic, separated only by a narrow strait from Prussian Pomerania, in which province it is included. It abounds in romantic scenery, on account of which, and of the advantages of sea-bathing which it affords, it is much frequented in summer by visitors from all parts of Northern Germany. It may be termed a German Isle of Wight, and indeed bears some resemblance to the English Island in the conformation of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it is better wooded, and is further distinguished by the narrow bays or bights which penetrate far inland.

The best mode of approaching it is by the Steamer, which goes in summer from Swinemünde to Putbus, in 14-16 hours, every Saturday, returning on Monday.

There is an excellent post road from Stettin by Pasewalk, passing the fine Rothmüller Wald, to

Anclam. Picturesque gate tower; the town contains many specimens of

34 Naugard. A Penitentiary here. the peculiar style of the Hanseatic or

2 Plathe.

23 Reselkow.

3 Cörlin. 18 m. N. W. close to the sea lies Colberg (Inn, Deutsches Haus), a fortress bravely defended against the French in 1806-7.

33 Cöslin.

24 Pankenin.

23 Schawe.

N. German architecture very like the
Flemish.

Greifswald (Inn, Deutsches Haus,) a curious old sea-port town, of 8000 inhab., possessing a University, founded 1456, which numbers about 200

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The square and Churches are highly grotesque.

There are 2 Ferries across the Strait separating Rügen from the mainland:

1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer Fähre. At Glewitz the landing place (2 German m.), conveyances may usually be hired to Putbus, 23 German miles by Garz. 2d. From Stralsund by the Alte Fähre, a shorter and safer passage in stormy weather, the strait

not being more than a mile broad here; the other ferry is 2 miles.

Stralsund (Inn, Löwe (lion), in the Alten Markt, best), an interesting and nearly unaltered town, was formerly capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a fortress of great strength. It was ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is situated on the borders of the strait called Gellen, separating Rügen from the mainland. The town is entirely surrounded by water, and approachable from the S. only by bridges. It has 17,000 inhab. The Nicolai Kirche, of brick, begun 1311, is very lofty, richly ornamented within, and contains a good deal to see; an iron screen all round the choir worthy of imitation, and much painting and carving, also an engraved monumental brass, 1354 (?); the view from its tower is remarkable. The Rathhaus, a fine edifice surmounted by 7 towers, was built 1316; within it is shown the stone on which the indefatigable Charles XII. was found, by the sentinel on duty outside the walls, fast asleep, before the gate, on his return from Bender. Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier who took up arms in 1808, without authority from his sovereign, in the hope of freeing Germany from the French, was shot in attempting a sortie, in the Fahrstrasse; a stone marks the spot. The public fountain is named after him, Schillsbrunnen. A simple marble monument, bearing the inscription" Magna voluisse magnum," marks the spot, in the Knieper Burial-ground, where the remains of that brave soldier, robbed of the head, were originally interred; but they have lately been removed to Brunswick.

During the Thirty Years war (1628) Stralsund was the place which first checked the career of the previously irresistible Wallenstein. He had sworn to take Stralsund, "even though it were fastened by chains to heaven; vowing vengeance upon the child unborn, when he should gain possession. This impious boast, however, was not

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destined to be fulfilled, for through the brave defence of its citizens, aided by a party of Scotch mercenaries, in the pay of Denmark, he was at last compelled to raise the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men before its walls. In 1715, the town was besieged by the allied army of the Prussians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII.,

then recently escaped from Turkey, conducted the defence for a considerable time; at length he was obliged to retire, and the town surrendered to Denmark. 2 Prussian and 2 Swedish Steamers ply between Stralsund and Ystad. (Handbook for Denmark.)

Schnellpost twice a week to Berlin. In going from Stralsund to Putbus, the old Ferry, Altfähre, about a mile broad, is crossed.

23 Garz. Busch's Inn.

1 Putbus. Inns Fürstenhof, best; Bellevue; Schwartz's. A bedroom costs 11 S. gr.; dinner, 12 S. gr. Putbus is a watering-place with 700 permanent inhab., belonging to the Prince of Putbus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to be the lineal descendant of the ancient Kings of Rügen. His Palace (Schloss) is a handsome Italian edifice, and the principal building in the place. It contains a chapel, library, some good paintings, and statues (3 by Thorwaldsen), and a collection of antiquities found in the Island. Adjoining the Palace is the Saloon or diningroom, where there is a daily tabled'hôte, and the Pavilion, containing assembly and music rooms for the use of the visitors; the Theatre, and the New School, opened 1836. Attached to the palace is a delightful Park, with gardens and pleasure grounds open to the public. The Prince's stables contain a very superior stud.

A mile from Putbus, on the seashore, is the Badhaus, supplied with sea - baths. There are also bathing-machines for those who prefer the open sea.

warm

The great attraction of Putbus is its beautiful situation near the borders

of a bay with an island in front.
wooded banks and long indented pro-
montories shelter it from the Baltic.
It bears a miniature resemblance to
the bay of Naples. From the ex-
cellent accommodation furnished by
the lodging-houses, Putbus is the best
head quarters for those who intend to
explore the Island. All charges are
fixed by printed tariff.

The Prince's agent lets out horses and carriages for hire at a moderate charge.

High | worshipped by the Pagan Saxons, and here stood her temple described by Tacitus. It abounds in stone sepulchres, called Hunengräber by the peasants, in which skeletons and jars full of bones and ashes have been found. The whole district is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian poetry and mythology. Buried in the recesses of this mysterious grove lies the Hertha See, called the Black Lake, from the dark shadows of the beech woods around; it is still looked on with veneration by the inhabitants. It is about 200 paces long, and 48 feet deep in the centre. These localities, and various ancient remains existing upon the island, such as tumuli and cromlechs, possess additional interest, if we regard them as the relics of a nation by whom Rome was overthrown after an existence of 12 centuries: Odoacer, who finally captured the Imperial city, was king of the Rügii, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who formed his army was this remote and insignificant island, and the neighbouring coast of Pomerania.

The Steamer from Swinemünde lands its passengers on the boat-pier at Lauterbach, a mile from the Baths. Passengers arriving by the boat, and intending to return by it, had better hire for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages waiting on the spot, set out at once on the excursion round the island, and leave Putbus till their return.

The following sketch of a tour round the Island includes all the most remarkable objects, starting from Putbus to the

1 Jagdhaus, a handsome hunting lodge of Prince Putbus, commanding a delightful view.

Prora, on the narrow Isthmus called Schmaler Heide, which unites the promontory Jasmund to the main island.

Sagard.-Inn, Fürstenkrone. Near this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth.

The N. extremity of the island Rügen consists of a long narrow peninsula, or rather of two peninsulas; that of Jasmund, and beyond it that of Wittow, connected with each other and the main island by two narrow necks of land. The length of this united promontory is about 25 miles. The bay or firth which it encloses is crossed by one or two ferries, at which carriages and foot passengers can be transferred from one side to the other; thus avoiding the necessity of retracing the same road in returning from Arkona.

Beyond Sagard, the road enters the ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here the goddess Hertha (Earth) was

3 Immediately beyond the Hertha See and the wood of Stubbenitz, rises the foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a precipice of chalk, 440 feet high, rising out of the sea, somewhat like Shakspeare's cliff at Dover. A large Inn, called Gross Schweitzer Haus, has been built at Stubbenkammer, on the verge of the forest. A staircase of 600 steps cut in the rock, leads from the shore to the highest summit, called Konigsstuhl. Hither travellers repair to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On the W. the promontory of Arkona, the most northern point of Rügen, stretches far out into the sea.

The Stubbenkammer is about 20 miles distant from Putbus, and 15 from Bergen. Close to this is the Herthaburg, an eminence crowned by a nearly oval wall or entrenchment constructed by the ancient Sclavic inhabitants of the island. Within the enclosure, the Temple of the Heathen

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