whole of it. Close to it rises the hill of Mosenberg, remarkable for its 4 volcanic cones of slag; 3 of them are perfect; 1 is broken down on the south; from 1 of them a current of basaltic lava descends into the valley.

Gillenfeld (Burgermaster Zilchen's Inn), on the road to Lützerath, passing Hedersdorf, is the next point of interest. Here is situated the Pulvermaar, one of the largest and most beautiful crater-lakes of the Eifel, 330 feet deep. On the way from Gillenfeld to Lützerath is the village of Strötzbusch, built in the hollow of a crater-lake, and near it there are remains of another crater, formerly perhaps a lake.

Lützerath is distant from Daun, by the direct road, about 12 English miles. We have now entered upon Route 41.

ROUTE 45.

BINGEN TO TREVES.

It

16 Pruss. miles = 76 Eng. miles. A schnellpost 4 times a week. sets out from the post-house on the left bank of the Nahe, close to Bingen bridge. The chief part of this road is excellent, though hilly: the journey may be performed with post-horses in 14 hours. The road is carried out of the valley of the Nahe by well-constructed zig-zags, and at one point, where seats have been erected, commands a charming view.

There is considerable beauty in the gorge leading down to the village of 12 Stromberg, with the ruins of Castle Goldenfels, which was bravely defended against the French, 1793. 3 Simmern.

We follow the line of the old Roman road as far as Kirchberg.

23 Buchenbeurn. From this to Berncastel the road is very hilly, running over the high table-land of the Hundsrück (Dog's Back) hills. For a considerable distance neither

house nor human being is to be seen. The country is a bleak uncultivated waste of moor and moss, with forest interspersed, Here and there a distant view over hills and valleys appears. We again follow the line of the old Roman road, called in the country Steinstrasse. By the side of it is seen a small truncated tower (Stumpfe Thurm), said to be (?) a Roman work. It is supposed, indeed, that the Roman station Belginum, or Tabernæ, may have stood upon this spot. A little farther on, the road descends through a narrow and winding ravine (the Tiefenbach-thal), whose sides, formed of ragged slate rocks, are exceedingly picturesque, in many places overhanging the road, and sprinkled over with trees and underwood. Considerable mines have been driven into these rocks, and roofing slate is obtained from them. Many of the entrances to them open close upon the road side. At the bottom of this steep descent lies

3 Berncastel, on the Moselle. Inn, Three Kings. Page 312.

The Moselle is here passed by a ferry-boat; a good road leads to 3 Hetzerath, on the high road from Coblenz to Treves. 23 TREVES. At page 304.

ROUTE 45 a.

COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT, A. M., BY SIEGBURG AND LIMBURG.

24 Germ. m. 114 Eng. m. A macadamised post road, 14 Germ. m. shorter than that by Coblenz. In wet or foggy weather it is preferable to that by the Rhine: no inn between Siegburg and Limburg. Schnellpost daily in 23 hrs.

31 Siegburg (Inn, Star, tolerable), a town of 2500 inhab., on the Sieg, about 4 m. above its junction with the Rhine. Upon the rock of St. Michael, in a singularly beautiful situation, immediately overhanging the town stands the ancient Benedictine Abbe

founded in 1060 by Archbishop Hanno, who is buried within the fine Church. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. A new road runs to Bonn, crossing the Sieg by a ferry some way below Siegburg, and the Rhine by the flying bridge. 2 Uckerath.

12 Weyerbusch.

At Altenkirchen, the brave French General Marceau (the Bayard of the republic) received his death wound in an action with the Austrians under the Archduke Charles.

21 Wahlerod or Wahlroth, the first station in the territory of Nassau.

2 Freilingen. Country high and 2 Wallmeroth. J woody (the skirt of the Westerwald) as you approach the Lahn.

2 Limburg (Inn, Post), in Rte. 96. Nieder-Selters, whence the celebrated water is obtained, is passed on this stage; it is described under the head Schwalbach, in Rte. 95. 3 Würges.

3 Königstein, Rte. 97.

21 FRANKFURT A. M., Rte. 95. F.S.

&c.

ROUTE

PAGE 325

331

70. Frankfort-A.-M. to Cassel 383 71. Cassel to Hanover, by Pyr

73. THE HARTZ.-Göttingen to Clausthal; Goslar, the Brocken, the Rosstrappe, the Valley of the Bode, and Alexisbad 74. THE HARTZ. · to Magdeburg

393

Nordhausen

401

out for Berlin by the Schnellpost in the evening, and breakfast there on Wednesday morning, i. e. in 4 days from London.

About 25 miles from the mouth of the Elbe lies the island of Heligoland (Holyland), so named from the Temple of Hertha (Earth), the goddess worshipped by the ancient Saxons, which stood on it. It was ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and some fortifications are raised on it. Its population amounts to 3,000. At the time when Napoleon had excluded England from the continent, it was

important as a war-station; and from its situation near the mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser, it then became a considerable smuggling depôt. Its male inhabitants are chiefly fishermen, sailors, and pilots. The sea is fast consuming its shores; and in the course of time will, in all probability, leave nothing behind but a sandbank it is now about two miles in circumference, but is diminishing daily.

:

(1.) At the mouth of the Elbe stand the lighthouse and town of Cuxhaven, on a small angle of territory belonging to Hamburg. Vessels lie at anchor off this place waiting for favourable winds. It is a watering-place frequented by the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea-bathing. In winter, when the Elbe is frozen over, it is necessary to proceed from Hamburg by land to meet the steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious and expensive journey, crossing the Elbe to Haarburg, and descending its 1. bank.

Beyond Cuxhaven, the left bank of the Elbe belongs to Hanover; it is for the most part flat and uninteresting. The only towns on this side are Stade, an unimportant place, where a Hanoverian sloop of war is stationed to enforce the toll levied by Hanover in virtue of an ancient imperial grant on vessels and cargoes passing up the Elbe;-and Haarburg, opposite Hamburg.

The land on the (rt.) bank is the territory of the Duchy of Holstein, belonging to Denmark; it rises in gentle slopes, covered, for some distance below Hamburg, with wood, interspersed with handsome villas and gardens belonging to opulent merchants. On this side lies the small town of Glückstadt, with 6000 inhab., now connected with Altona by Railway. Higher up the little fishing village of Blankenese, with its houses scattered along the slope and among the trees one above another, is passed; and above it, the town of

(rt.) ALTONA, which joins Hamburg, and from the river seems to

form part of it, though within the Danish territory. It has risen to great mercantile prosperity, perhaps to the prejudice of its neighbour, so that the Hamburgers say that its name agrees with its situation, as it is All-zu-nah (All too near). In commercial respects it is a perfectly free town,-no duties being levied, and the custom-house line for Holstein runs outside of it. It is the most commercial and populous town in Denmark next to Copenhagen, having 27,000 inhabitants. A Railroad is made from Altona to Kiel on the Baltic. (See HANDBOOK for N. EUROPE, DENMARK, &c.)

A handsome new Quay has been constructed at Hamburg along the Elbe, and the harbour has been deepened, but the steam-boat passengers usually embark and disembark in boats to and from the vessel. (rt.) HAMBURG.. · Inns: Streit's hotel, very comfortable, the best; the landlady is English; Alte Stadt London; these are well situated on the Jungferstieg. Charges: bed and dinner, 24 sch. each, breakfast 12 sch., a bottle of wine, 16 sch. Hotel de Russie; Stadt Petersburg; Kronprinz'; Stadt Paris; Victoria Hotel.

Hamburg is situated about 80 m.from the mouth of the Elbe, at the junction of a small stream called the Alster with the Elbe. Being a Free Town, the duties levied are so small that travellers are not bothered with any Customhouse examination on landing; but passports are usually demanded, and the traveller's name and profession are entered at the Baumhaus, near the port. Its population is reckoned at 145,000. There are about 6000 Jews. The Current Coins are s. d. The Mark Courant Double Mark Pieces of 8 Schillings 4 Sch. Rix dollar (specie)

=1 2 =25

0 7

=0 3

=4 7

Mark Banco(imaginary) =1 53.

English.

Money accounts are kept in marks and schillings; there are 16 schillings in a mark. The marc banco

and rix dollar banco are imaginary coins. The mark banco is to the current mark as 16 to 20.

The piece of dollar Kassengeld is the most common, and is worth 31 schillings currency, The Pruss. dollar goes for 40 sch.

Hamburg is one of the four remaining Free towns, and is chiefly remarkable as the first trading seaport of Germany. It is intersected by canals, called Fleethen (Fleet ditches ?), and in this respect, in the antiquated appearance of its houses, and in the number of trees growing in its streets, bears a resemblance to the towns of Holland. In 1840, 2935 vessels entered. The Elbe is navigable thus far for ships of considerable burthen, which can enter the harbour and transfer their cargoes in barges to the merchants' doors, whose warehouses and dwellings generally adjoin. There are no docks. Much banking and funding business is done here; besides which it is the depôt for a large part of the exports and imports of the N. of Europe. The sugar refineries have diminished of late.

By the dreadful fire of 1842 Hamburg sustained a calamity unequalled in extent except by the fire of London, which has reduced the heart of the town to a heap of ashes. Many years must elapse before the damage can be repaired, and the traces of it effaced. At present about 800 houses are finished or in progress of being rebuilt. The conflagration broke out in the Deichstrasse, near the Elbe, on Thursday, May 5, from what cause is unknown, and raged until the following Sunday in spite of all efforts to oppose it; spreading and widening as it spread until it had involved in destruction 2 sides of the Alster Basin, levelling almost all the buildings, public and private, over an area of many acres, nearly in the form of a triangle, sweeping down 1749 houses, 61 streets, besides courts and alleys, and even crossing the broad canal of the Alster. The attempts made to arrest the flames

when the engines had proved useless, were, first, to pull down the houses, but in unroofing them the timbers and rafters were laid open, and more readily caught fire from the sparks lodging in them. Artillery was next employed to batter them down, but the balls only made holes in the walls, and passed through. Finally, the plan of blowing them up with gunpowder was resorted to; and this useful but dangerous task was executed by the English engineer Lindley, who fortunately for the town, was present at the time and understood the proper mode of proceeding. The first check was given to the fire by blowing up the Rathhaus and Bank, in whose cellars were deposited a vast treasure in silver bars. The churches of St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and St. Gertrude were speedily consumed; the New Exchange, though surrounded by the flames, escaped almost by a miracle uninjured. The sympathy caused by this event in all parts of the globe was proved by the voluntary subscriptions raised for the sufferers, amounting to nearly 400,000l., of which England contributed 41,0007.

A

Hamburg has profited to a certain extent by the calamity in the improvements introduced in laying out the new buildings, the widening of streets, the construction of sewers, and the filling up of some of the stagnant fleeths or ditches. The plan of these improvements has been prepared by Mr. Lindley. new and handsome Rathhaus is to be built on one side of a new square fronting the Börse. The churches of St. Peter and St. Nicholas are about to be rebuilt in good Gothic taste. Another improvement is the drainage and conversion into a new quarter of the town of a low marshy tract on the rt. bank of the Elbe called Hammerbroek. It has been intersected by canals, the water pumped out by a steam-engine-the surface raised 4 ft. over a space of an English square m. by the rubbish arising from the fire;