ONLY wish I was rich and grand," Said merry Kate as she sat by the sea, Mending the nets with a ready hand.

"O that a fortune was left to me! And that there was no more work to do, But a carriage waiting for me and you!

Ah me, that was thirty years ago,

And now Kate sits on the sands no more, But lives in a city's gloom and glow,

For days of labour have long been o'er: Kate walks in the gloaming of middle life, A great inventor's respected wife.

Has gold brought the bliss she dreamed it would?
Her face is furrowed with fret and care;

Her spouse is kind and her home is grand,
Yet is she often repining there!
The wealth she wished for herself alone,
Lies on her life like a churchyard stone.

But Lettice still toils for daily bread,

Goes in and out 'mid the sad and lone,

And serves them with heart and hand and head,
And makes their struggles and hopes her own.
Her dreamed-of blessings her heart has won,
For what could gold do, which Love has not done?

ISABELLA FYVIE MAYO.

HON

ONGKONG is all very well as regards scenery, but necessarily lacks variety, and one gets tired of looking at the same hills and water every day, even through the wonderfully clear atmosphere of this time of the year. I am coming to the conclusion that the heat of Hongkong has been very much exaggerated, and that so far from being extreme in summer it is one of the coolest places for its latitude. The highest temperature in my room last year was 88° and that only on a few days; this year (1887) it has not been above 86°, while at Manila and other places on the mainland to the south it is often up to 90° even in winter. The drawback to this climate, for some people, is the humidity, and of course this makes a low degree of heat less tolerable than a much higher one in a dry climate; for instance, 80° with a saturated atmosphere is more oppressive than a dry heat at 100°, and the former is often experienced here in summer. The really warm weather only lasts about five months, from the middle of May to the middle of October, and during the remainder of the twelve months the climate is quite cool, and at times cold. My thermometer at present (9 P.M.) is 83°, and writing with only a thin gauze vest and white trousers on, I am quite cool, though the absence of the punkah makes a great difference.

We started at 8 A.M. on Whit Monday for a sail to Canton in cool and cloudy weather with a strong N.E. breeze. The boats are most comfort

1 The following communication reaches us from a correspondent some years resident in Hongkong.

able, they are large and airy, with a capital saloon on deck, surrounded by a verandah, and having an

upper deck on top. They are only suited to river

traffic, and are worked by an old-fashioned beamengine, the beam of which oscillates on the upper deck. I was much struck with the wonderful cleanliness of the boat we went up in, one could literally have eaten off the deck. The first part of the passage was through the numerous islands that stud this part of the coast on one side of the estuary of the Canton River. The rain which set in prevented us from seeing much of the scenery of this part. About noon it cleared, and we found ourselves approaching the narrow entrance to the north mouth of the river, which is separated by a large delta from the larger or west mouth. The entrance is well fortified, judging from the number of guns mounted ; and there is, moreover, a little higher up, at Whampoa, a barricade thrown across, originally intended to prevent the French from coming up, but not removed, although the circumstances which rendered such precautions necessary no longer exist. However, they have been good enough to leave a passage way for vessels, which they kindly light up at night; but the trade with Canton is too small to be much inconvenienced by the obstruction.

Whampoa, about fifteen miles below Canton, was once a thriving port, and is still the residence of a vice-consul, though it has sunk to an insignificant village.

Leaving Whampoa after only a minute's stay, we steamed up the river, now pretty narrow,

between flat banks extending for miles inland to the hills in the distance. These banks are given up to the cultivation of rice or paddy" as it is called, and the beautiful green of the young crops is very refreshing to the eye. Many of the fields are surrounded by plantain hedges which have. a pretty effect. We passed one or two pagodas, one especially noticeable on account of its great height, and the shrubs or rather trees growing out of its walls and on the top. These pagodas are mostly of great age, their walls are immensely thick, and they are built in storeys, between which, however, there is no means of communication. They are not temples, but merely landmarks, and are supposed to watch over and protect the land in their immediate neighbourhood.

The first object in Canton that met our eyes some eight or ten miles off, was the French cathedral, a handsome and lofty building with two steeples, which is right in the heart of the city, and I believe was erected on a sacred spot, much to the disgust of the Chinese. Now, however, they are said to be more reconciled to it, and even connect the two towers with the ram's horns with which the origin of the city is connected (it is called the city of rams). The cathedral towers far above everything else in the place, and is in fact the only object visible until within a short distance of the city. On near approach one gradually becomes conscious of the existence of a large town, and notices several tower-like buildings scattered about the place which one at first takes for fortifications, but which turn out to be pawnshops! These buildings are quite an institution in China, they are the depositories of a Chinaman's valuables, including his best clothes which only appear on New Year's day. They are therefore built of stone and of a great height, so as to render them fireproof.

After threading our way through scores of sampans, house-boats, cargo-boats, &c., which throng the riverside, we at last arrived at the wharf and disembarked. Canton is built entirely on one side of the river (here about a mile wide); but an island in the middle of the stream is thickly populated, and is really part of the city, though called by a different name.

Let me give you a short description of the different boats that one sees in the rivers in China. There is the junk, or cargo-boat, a huge unwieldly structure with high poop and bow, closely resembling the ancient style of warship. They are propelled by large sails rigged Chinese fashion, with ribs of bamboo across them, and manage to get through the water at a very fair rate of speed. Then there is the opposite extreme: the slipper boat, so called from its shape, which is only for river traffic, and can accommodate painfully one or two passengers; these boats are propelled from the stern by oars, and can shoot along at a tremendous rate, as they, like all Chinese boats, are flat bottomed. The house-boats, something like a floating circus-van, are, I believe, very comfortable. They are principally for passenger traffic, and in them one can travel for days in comfort without any of the inconveniences and fatigue of land journeying. Rivers and canals are at present the great means of communication

with the interior of China, and will proba continue so until the advent of railways which will simply revolutionise the country. The gre feature of a Chinese city on a river is the vastness of the floating population which at Canton a between 50,000 and 60,000, the population of the city being one and a half millions.

On landing we were conducted to "Shameen." an island conceded by the Chinese for Europea settlements. It is severed from the city by a canal, while the river runs on two sides of i The island is well laid out with avenues of trees and public gardens, and the houses are substantial, and of course thoroughly European, as no Chinese live there. The contrast between this quiet spot with its bund facing the river, its tennis-court, &c., and the vast Chinese city close at hand, is very striking.

In order to economise our time we paid a visit the same afternoon to the island in the middle of the river, where are the principal tea-houses, and also a large Buddhist temple and monastery The process of preparing the tea for export couli be seen from the newly-imported leaf to the roasted article packed in the next chest f export. The scenting of what is known as scented tea is done by mixing the leaves with the petals of a white flower of delicious odor which is brought down from the country in larg quantities for the purpose. The fragrance of the tea-houses was a pleasant change after the various odours in the stuffy streets. The templ had little of note about it besides its extent and general cleanliness (which seems to be the exception in Chinese temples). The figures the different presiding genii which graced the entrance, as well as the three Buddhas at th shrine, are of colossal proportions. The priests of monks, of whom there are a large number, are a middle-sized, lean-looking set of men with heads perfectly shaven, and dressed in dingy tunic, except when at worship, when they don a yellow shawl. There was a service while we were there; only the priests were present, arranged in two bodies facing each other on either side of the shrine. The worship consisted of a kind of litary monotoned by the whole body, closed by s procession three times round the chapel. The gardens belonging to the temple are very large and are devoted chiefly to kitchen produce. W saw some lovely lotus flowers in a pond in the grounds, the flowers about twice the size of ones fist, and of a delicate pink colour and delicios smell. Two other features of the place were the crematorium at one extremity of the enclosur which was simply an outhouse without a roof and the sacred swine: these animals are kept, and are allowed to die of old age!

gave

well

Out

That evening at Shameen was simply perfect: it was full moon and delightfully cool and clear. and the place looked lovely. I may mention that I saw fireflies for the first time on that evening: one was caught in a handkerchief and quite a strong phosphorescent light from the tail Next day was gloriously fine and cool, and we started about 9.30 to explore the city, which we managed to do pretty well. The streets or rather alleys, for they are nothing more, are all extremely

narrow, about the width of a London pavement, while most of them have planks and lattice work thrown across from one roof to another to keep the sun out, so that they are pretty cool. There is no wheeled traffic in the place, everything and everybody being carried on men's shoulders, and in this respect Canton is a great contrast to Hongkong. After walking about four miles through interminable alleys and having a look at some of the silk factories, where the beautiful work they turn out is all made by rude hand looms, we came to the English Concession in the heart of the city, where the Consul has his official residence. This place is completely cut off from the surrounding population by a high wall, and is a perfect oasis in the midst of a desert of houses. It contains some fine trees, and the ruins of an ancient palace, and has a beautiful little deer park attached to it, in the middle of which is a mound with a summer-house, which gives one the idea of the most perfect seclusion from the outer world. Everything is so quiet in this charming spot that it is impossible to realise the propinquity of a large population.

After a look at a pagoda close by, which is of great age, and has a beautiful outline, we repaired to a Chinese eating-house and indulged in a native tiffin, chopsticks and all. Tho "chow" was very good after one had got over first prejudices, and the tea which accompanied it was delicious, though of so pale a colour, that I am afraid most people at home would condemn it at once as "wash." The chopsticks required instruction, but after a little practice we managed to convey to our mouths quite sufficient to satisfy the inner man. The "chow" consisted of dumplings containing mince-meat, roast chicken in pieces, rice, and small squares of jelly. The absence of bread is a want to which I suppose one would soon get reconciled. After the meal they brought us each a bowl of warm water and a napkin for ablutionary purposes, also pipes for those who wished for them. The Chinese pipes have a chamber in the bowl which is filled with water, through which the smoke passes up the stem, thus preventing the juice from passing as well; of course one has to be careful not to draw too vigorously, otherwise the consequences might be serious.

After tiffin we paid a visit to the city temple which is in the most crowded part, and the approaches to which are thronged by fortunetellers, and people of all classes. In a room close by a Buddhist scholar was preaching Confucius to a large and attentive audience. Near the entrance to the temple are a series of little rooms depicting by life-size figures the "Inferno of the Buddhist religion, and exhibiting the torments of the lost in painfully realistic " works" or rather "tableaux." Before the shrine with its three figures were several women engaged in prayer. These people have a curious way of ascertaining whether their petitions have been answered or not: they take two semicircular pieces of bamboo, and throw them up three times; if they fall both in the same way it is a favourable sign, but if not, more joss papers and incen se sticks must be burnt until the desired

wax

475

sign is obtained, when the petitioner goes away happy. There is always a vessel containing sandal-wood burning before the altar, and quantities of incense sticks ready for the worshippers to burn.

We next visited the Emperor's temple which is only opened for worship once a year on his birthday, and which presents at all other times a most untidy appearance. We managed to get a glimpse through a hoarding of the Emperor's tablet which is suspended over the altar, and to which homage is paid every year by all the grandness of Canton; it is a piece of blackwood, about 6 or 8 feet long and 2 feet wide, covered with gold characters. We had, unfortunately, no time to see the Examination Hall, and other sights of the place which would have required another day; so these were reserved for our next visit.

We left the city that evening by the river boat, and arrived at Hongkong about eight the next morning. The steam down the river in the moonlight and the beauties of the sunrise next morning formed a delightful termination of a most enjoyable visit.

o

O NOT OUT.

T.

OTS of new boys this term!" exclaimed Robert Ainsworth, in rather a loud whisper to the possessor of the desk next to his own, on the first day of his return to college after the Easter vacation, looking round the large class-room as he spoke, and curiously eyeing the new-comers.

"Lots," repeated his companion, raising his head for a moment from the paper before him.

Seated near the head-master's table, and awaiting their turn to be told off to the different classes, the arrivals in question did not appear to be much at their ease, and were evidently examining their future associates with some interest.

A little later on, when the boys were up for their mathematical lesson, utterly regardless of the problem that was being chalked upon the blackboard by the master, Robert continued to stare idly about him, until amongst the four new boys that had just been drafted into his class, one in particular attracted his notice.

Charlie Durnford was a lad of some sixteen years, Robert's own age. He had a kindly, honest face, and strong, muscular frame. Unlike Robert, however, his whole attention was fixed upon the work he had to do; his large, intelligent eyes followed eagerly every word traced before them, and he appeared to be entirely unconscious of the presence of any one near him.

To Robert such unremitting zeal was a novel study, and he set his brain to wonder how it could possibly be, that a boy should, on the very first day of his entrance, work away as if he had a slave-driver behind him. Day

after day passed, however, and whatever class they happened to be in, there was Charlie still industrious as ever, and always eagerly intent upon what he was doing.

The new scholar, contrary to the habit of most of the others, joined but little in the games, generally returning to the boarding-house in which he lived as soon as school broke up, and reappearing only when work had to begin again. As time went on, his continued industry appeared to have an irritating effect upon Robert.

"He is a regular swat, and can't so much as handle a bat!" he exclaimed to a chum, as Charlie with a goodnatured nod passed into the school before the two.

"That he is!"

"Can't we take a rise out of him?" suggested Robert. The other laughed. "It would be a capital joke," he said.

An opportunity was soon afforded for the carrying out of their amiable intentions.

Two or three weeks later a cricket match was to come off between the boys in the boarding-house in which lived Robert Ainsworth, and those in the one inhabited by Charlie.

It was a half-holiday; the boys turned out in excellent spirits. Robert was captain of his eleven; his side won the toss, went in, and the contest was soon a lively one. To the surprise of many, more especially of Robert, there stood Charlie Durnford watching the game with evident interest. It had not proceeded very long before one of the boys fielding was struck by a ball and obliged to leave the ground. A bright thought suggested itself to Robert.

66

'Here, swat!" he shouted, addressing himself to Charlie, "here's room for you. Come and field in Harry's place; the captain will let you if you ask him." There was a contemptuous smile on his face as he said the words. Charlie hesitated.

"Come along, don't be afraid!" continued his tormentor. Just then the captain was in consultation with two or three of his side, as to whom to select in the place of the absentee. Charlie went up to him and offered his services.

"Can you play?" he asked in surprise.

"I can," was the unhesitating reply.

66

'Well, we'll try you;" and in another moment, after pulling off his coat, Charlie strode forward and took the absent lad's place.

To the no small astonishment of Robert, who was one of the best cricketers at the college, and who had a keen eye for every defect in his comrades' play, Charlie's fielding was of no mean order from the first. As the game proceeded, it could be termed nothing less than brilliant, and more than one hearty "Well fielded" and "Well caught" burst from the players and lookers-on.

When the eleven were out, Robert, who was always accustomed to be number one, feeling for the first time perhaps a little curious, called out once more

"You fluked it this time! Why not let him have his innings?" he went on sarcastically.

No notice was at first taken of this suggestion; but three wickets having fallen rapidly for very few runs, the captain came up to Charlie.

"Can you bat?" he asked rather anxiously.

"I have batted before now," was the reply.

rapidly rose to the no small delight of his own side, whi cheer after cheer re-echoed through the playground.

Soon, however, Charlie's partner was cleverly caugh The remaining six batsmen were disposed of in due ecurse. after more or less success, and Charlie triumphantly carried his bat out for a heavy score.

From that moment Charlie Durnford rose high in the estimation of Robert Ainsworth, though why so good a cricketer should be such a "swat" was a greater puzzle u the latter than ever. Feeling a little ashamed of is previous utterances about him, Robert resolved to solve de riddle if possible, and one day questioned him as to là refusal to join in future matches.

"I have no time to play," was Charlie's reply.

"No time!" echoed Robert. "I can make as much as I like."

He then learnt from Charlie that his father, a clergymas. had died only a year or two previously; that he had a widowed mother, and five sisters all younger than himself, and that his object in life was to become their support. He was studying for the Indian Civil Service, and most anxious to pass for it as quickly as possible. He did not tell him, however, that he was an ardent lover of cricket, and that he had to exercise constant self-control in the execution of what he considered a most sacred duty.

Charlie adhered firmly to his principles of self-denial. He took part in no more matches, and at the end of twe years went up from college to his examination, and passed first on the list.

With Robert matters were different. He, too, was de tined for the Civil Service for India, and his parents were anxiously looking forward to his passing a successful examination. Six months after Charlie had left college, it was his turn to go up; but, alas, although not wanting in ability, he was hopelessly plucked.

What was to be done? There was nothing for it but to send him at once to a clergyman in the country to be coached for some months' time. The Rev. William Cleve lands was found to undertake this task, and Robert was soon on his way to Wanston Vicarage.

Although quite prepared to dislike the vicar to whose care he had been confided, Robert's animosity was soon disarmed by the kindness of the reception given to him. As he looked from the dining-room window, across the broad sweep of lawn, into the hill-girt meadows beyond, a murmur of admiration escaped him.

"Not half a bad place this, after all," he thought. "I daresay a fellow could be happy enough here."

"I will call my nephew," said the clergyman, after about a quarter of an hour's interview. "He only arrived on a visit to us about an hour ago. You must make friends" So saying, he left the room.

Robert was in no particular humour for making another new acquaintance just then; but on the return of Mr. Cleve lands, he was in duty bound to come forward and greet his nephew.

What was the surprise of the former to find that the lak were no strangers to each other; his sister's son being n other than Charlie Durnford.

At the expiration of his time, Charlie who had obtained a good appointment left to complete his preliminary studies; but previous to his doing so, during his stay at Wanston, he steadily helped his friend both by example and personl

aid.

Nor was cricket forgotten by the kind vicar as a whole some recreation; yet Robert learnt to feel somehow, without a word being said on the subject, that no game ought to be a lad's first consideration when at college, and that self-denial is a great and noble virtue, a tribute of gratitude acceptable in our Heavenly Father's eyes.