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attention, when I immediately arose and joined his party. At this moment, the interval of four years, which had elapsed since my former visit, appeared like a mere dream. The prayers which he recited consisted of the same words, were pronounced in the same tone, and were offered up with the same fervour of devotion, which I had before so often listened to with delight: and when the cere- mony was concluded, the good old man delivered out his orders for the day, with a patriarchal simplicity and dignity of manner, that was really affecting to contemplate. With this impression still warm on my mind, we ascended one of the hills in the neighbourhood, and from the top of it beheld a scene that, as one of my companions remarked, was alone a sufficient recompence for the trouble of passing Taranta. A thousand different shaped hills were presented to the view, which bore the appearance of having been dropped on an irregular plain; and the different shades and depths which the varied aspect of these hills presented, as the sun emerged from the horizon, rendered the scene truly magnificent." P. 230.

Before we leave Dixan, we are induced to mention a striking fact in the natural history of Abyssinia, which has been recorded by one of the earliest visitors to that country, and which is fully confirmed by Mr. Salt. We allude to the remarkable change of climate which takes place immediately on crossing Taranta. "On descending the south side of that mountain-mass, the change of climate, he remarks, began to be very apparent; the heat of the sun became intense and scorching, compared with what we had experienced on the other side of Taranta; the vegetation looked parched; the brooks were dry, and the cattle had all been driven across the mountain in search of pasture." The early authority to which we have just made an allusion, is that of Nonnosus *, ambassador from the Emperor Justinian to the ruling sovereign of the Axomites, who remarked, that from Ave to the coast, he experienced summer and harvest time, while

* "De cæli quoque constitutione dicere oportet quæ est ab Ave ad Auxumin, contra enim aestas illic et hiems accidit. Nam, Sole Cancrum, Leonem, et Virginem obcunte, ad Aven usque uli et nobis aestus est summaque caeli siccitas, et ab Ave Auxumin versus et reliquam Ethiopiam hiems est vehemens, non integra quidem illa die, sed quæ, a meridie semper et ubique incipiens, coactis nabibus aërem obducat, oram illam inundat. Quo etiam tempore Nilus late Egyptum pervadens, maris in modum, terram irrigat.. Cum autem Sol Capricornum, Aquarium et Pisces perambulat, aer, vice versa, Adulitis in Aven usque imbribus regionem inundat; in iis vero qui ab Ave Auxumin caterumque Ethiopiam versus jacent, aestas est, et maturos jam fructus terra prabet. Vide Nonnosus in Photii Bibliothecâ, as quoted by Mr. Salt.

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the winter prevailed from Ave to Axum, and vice versa. are aware that this fact is stated by Bruce, who at the same time, speaks of Taranta in the most lofty terms.

"Far above all (the other hills) towers that stupendous mass, the mountain of Taranta, I suppose one of the highest in the world, the point of which is buried in the clouds, and very rarely seen but in the clearest weather; at all other times abandoned to perpetual mist and darkness, the seat of lightning, thunder, and of storm. On its east side, or towards the Red Sea, the rainy season is from October to April; and on the western or Abys sinian side, cloudy, rainy, and cold weather prevails from May to October,"

On their way to Mugga, Mr. Salt and Mr. Pearce went to pay a visit to Ozoro Asquall, a lady of birth, who had been compelled to marry one of the chiefs of Temben, with whom she seldom lived; choosing rather to reside on her own estates, which, it may be presumed, ladies of rank always retain after marriage, together with their maiden names. Her husband unfortunately happened to be a visitor at the time our travellers. made their appearance, notwithstanding which, she received them with the utmost attention, and although it was Lent, she nade haste to entertain them with a supper. Both the lady and her spouse were at table, the former of whom, observes our author,

"Appeared to be of a remarkably gay and cheerful disposition, and not particularly reserved in her manners; frequently interchanging cups with her friend Mr. Pearce across the table, and evidently expressing regret at the restraint imposed by her hus band's presence: the whole scene, indeed, though not uncommon in other countries, afforded a striking instance of the superiority which ladies of rank in Abyssinia are accustomed to assume over their husbands. A trifling circumstance that took place in the course of our conviviality, contributed much to my amusement. I had given a ring to our hostess, and another to her spouse, but the lady, not being satisfied with the one she possessed, managed, by artful endearments, to coax her husband out of the other, telling him, among other reasons to induce him to comply, that if he would not part with it, it would be plain he loved the ring better than herself." P. 252.

Nothing of the least consequence or curiosity occurred till Mr. Salt reached Chelicut, the residence of the Ras Wellid Selassé, and the capital of Tigré. The party, by appoint ment, waited in the neighbourhood of the town, until a deputation from the Ras should invite them to proceed; and in a short time they saw two horsemen galloping up the plain with a large troop of armed attendants.

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"On their approach," says Mr. S. we descended into the valley, and were met by the two chiefs, Shalaka Selassé and Ayto Shiho, who, in honour of the mission, dismounted from their horses, and uncovered themselves to the waist, as they came up to pay their compliments. The number of attendants encreased every moment as we advanced to Chelicut, and before we reached the gateway of the Ras's mansion, we found some difficulty in making our way. At length, with a great bustle and a confused clamour, which, on such occasions, is reckoned honourable to the guests, we were ushered into the presence of the Ras. All the chiefs The old who were present, stood up uncovered on our entrance. man himself, who was seated on his couch, rose up with eagerness to receive me, like a man suddenly meeting with a long lost friend, and when I made my salutation, joy seemed to glisten in his eyes, while he welcomed me with an honest warmth and cordiality, that nothing but genuine and undisguised feeling could inspire.” P. 261.

Mr. Salt had not been long at Chelicut, when all his fears were confirmed that it was totally impracticable to advance to Gondar, on account of the disturbed state of the interior provinces, and the enmity subsisting between the Ras Wellid Selassé and a chief named Guxo, who, at that time, held the command of some of the most important districts eastward of the river Tacazze. The Ras himself assured him that it was impossible to perform such a journey until after the rainy season, in October, had subsided, and made no secret of his want of power to protect a traveller against his furious enemy Guxo. When Mr. S. expressed his inclination to brave all hazards rather than stop short of the principal object of his mission, the Ras informed him that he would not permit the attempt; and the conference ended in a reluctant determination on the part of our author to deliver up to the Ras the letter and presents from his Majesty, designed for the Emperor of Abyssinia. Among other things there were a painted glass window, a picture of the Virgin Mary, and a handsome marble table, all of which were fortunately preserved free from accident; and being immediately sent to the church at Chelicut, the latter was converted into a communion table, the picture placed above it by way of ant altar-piece, and the window was disposed of to the best advantage in an inside situation. It is scarcely possible, observes Mr. Salt, to convey an adequate idea of the admiration which the Ras and his principal chiefs expressed on beholding these splendid presents. The former would often sit for minutes, absorbed in silent reflection, and then break out with the exclamation "etzub, etzub," wonderful! wonderful! like a man bewildered with the fresh ideas that were rushing upon his mind, from having witnessed circumstances to which he could have given no previous credit. After a short time, an appropriate

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prayer was recited by the high priest, in which the English name was frequently introduced, and, on leaving the church, an order was given by the Ras, that a prayer should be offered up weekly, for the health of his Majesty, the King of Great Britain.

During Mr. Salt's stay in Abyssinia he made a tour, in company with Mr. Pearce, Mr. Coffin, and two others, to the river Tacazze, one of the principal tributaries of the Nile. On his return, he accompanied the Ras to Antalo, where he finally parted with that petty sovereign, early in May, and began his journey towards the Red Sea, to embark for England, leaving behind him once more Mr. Pearce, and also Mr. Coffin, who had become court favourites and ministers. Taking Chelicut in his way, our author assisted at the baptism of a boy, a servant of Mr. Pearce, and as the ceremony observed is in many respects similar to that which was used in this country a few centuries ago, we make no apology for transcribing the account which is here given of it.

"On reaching the church, we found the head priest, Abou Barea, with about twenty priests of an inferior order, waiting in a small area about thirty yards from the spot, some of whom were engaged in chaunting psalms, while the rest were busy in preparing the water and making other necessary arrangements for the occasion. At sun rise, every thing being ready, an attendant was sent round from the high priest to point out to each person concerned, the part which he was to take in the ceremony. The officiating priest was habited in white flowing robes, with a tiara, or silver mounted cap on his head, and he carried a censer with burning incense in his right hand; a second, of equal rank, was dressed in similar robes, supporting a large golden cross, while a third held in his hand a small phial containing a quantity of meiron (chrism) or consecrated oil, which is furnished to the church of Abyssinia by the Patriarch of Alexandria. The attendant priests stood round in the form of a semicircle, the boy being placed in the centre, and our party ranged in front. After a few minutes interval, employed in singing psalms, some of the priests took the boy and washed him all over very carefully in a large bason of water. While this was passing, a smaller font called me-te-mak, (which is always kept outside of the churches, owing to an unbaptized person not being permitted to enter the church) was placed in the middle of the area, filled with water, which the priest consecrated by prayer, waving the incense repeatedly over it, and dropping into it a portion of the meiron in the shape of a cross. The boy was then brought back, dripping from head to foot, and again placed naked and upright in the centre, and was required to renounce the devil and all his works,' which was performed by his repeating a given formula four separate times, turning each time towards a

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different point of the compass. The Godfather was then demanded, and on my being presented, I named the child George, in honour of his present Majesty, when I was requested to say the belief and the Lord's Prayer, and to make much the same promises as those required by our own church. The head priest afterwards laid hold of the boy, dipping his own hand into the water, and crossing him over the forehead, pronouncing at the same moment, George, I baptize thee in the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost.' The whole company then knelt down and joined in reciting the Lord's Prayer. Here, as I was given to understand, the ordinary ceremony of baptism concludes; but as the boy had been a Mussulmaun, he was, in addition, crossed with the consecrated oil over every joint and limb, or altogether, thirty-six times in different parts of his body. After this he was wrapped in a clean white linen cloth (the chrisom of our church) and placed for a moment in my arms, the priests telling me that I must henceforth consider him verily as my son.' The boy afterwards, according to the custom of most of the Eastern churches, was admitted to partake of the Holy Communion. The Abyssinians administer the Holy Sacrament of the Communion in both kinds, with leavened bread always prepared fresh for the occasion, and with wine made of a red grape, common in some parts of the country; while in others they are obliged to use, as a substitute, a liquor made of dried grapes squeezed in water. After the consecration of the bread and wine, just before they are delivered to the people, a bell is rung, and all those who are present bow themselves to the earth; but this does not appear to be done from any idea of the real Presence, as no such belief was entertained by any of those with whom I conversed on the subject. Both the administrants and communicants always abstain very strictly from eating and drinking during the whole of the morning previously to their partaking of the holy rite, for the easier accomplishment of which it is ge Rerally celebrated at an early hour." P. 387.

From Adowa Mr. Salt went to Axum, to revisit the ruins of that once magnificent city, and to inspect anew its celebrated inscriptions. On the 4th of June he embarked at Massowa, and in five days reached Mocha; on the 27th the Marian sailed from the latter port, the captain intending to make a windward passage against the south-west monsoon to the Cape of Good Hope, where it had been previously arranged the vessel should touch on her way back to England. After a good deal of coarse weather* at sea, they were obliged to relinquish this intention, and run for Bombay, which they reached on the 16th of July. Having refitted, they again set sail, arrived on the 4th of December at the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 11th day of January, 1811, Mr. Salt stepped ashore at the port of Penzance, in Cornwall.

From the sketch we have given, rapid as it is, it must have

appeared

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