both dressed as Greek bishops, as are also the various figures of Christ. It is gilded all over: small pictures are hung at each pillar. The principal altar is a canopy, supported by four pillars, inlaid with shells and mother of pearl. There are on it six crosses, five crucifixions, eight virgins, six circles, and one dead Christ. The semicircular recess behind is hung round with two dozen small pictures of the Virgin and Christ. The mosaic of the semicircular recess has the appearance of great antiquity. It represents the transfiguration: Christ in the centre in an oval. Each figure has its name. Peter, James, and Moses on the left; John, and Elias, on the right.

We paid to the convent, in all, twenty-two dollars. The Arabs disputed fiercely for an hour, chiefly about the tent. Having supplied ourselves with bread, water, and aqua-vitæ, we set out from the convent at eight, A. M. We crossed over the great plain below Horeb, and entered the pass, and at eleven A. M., we rested under a rock to the right, immediately after quitting the pass. We shewed the Arabs the manna which we had got at the convent. They said it was genuine, and that manna is often found in the morning, below the trees. They boil it with a little water, to divest it of the sand. The sand sinks to the bottom.

We found the Arabs very serviceable. They pitched our tents, made the fires, assisted in cook

CONDUCT OF THE ARABS.-INSCRIPTIONS. 201

ing, &c. Morning and evening they expect coffee, and at times bread, biscuits, &c. If well treated, they do well. They are full of protestations. Having started at half past three, we halted near some water, at ten minutes after seven. Here we met one of our Arabs, Mohammed, who, wishing to remain in the country, had brought his brother to take his place. He also brought a kid as a present, and with many salaams departed.

On the 21st we set out early in order to see the natural reservoir, where water is found after rain. After clambering up rocks, we came to a turn to the right, which shewed us a single palm, and a wild fig tree. Beside the fig tree was a small basin, about ten feet by half the breadth, formed in the rock, and partly filled with water. On a higher level, a few feet beyond, was a reservoir about twenty feet each way, which was filled with water. A precipice is immediately over it, and on each side, and with the two trees forms a very picturesque appearance. We ate some of the wild figs, which were good, but very small, about the size of a cherry. We did not get off till half past six, and at half past ten we stopped under the shade. We started at a quarter to four, and should have arrived at Sarabeet el Khaddam at half past six, but that we stopped on the road to examine inscriptions.

These inscriptions are found on the rocks to the right, near Sarabeet el Khaddam. The first is by

itself, at a place where, apparently, an attempt has been made to find a mine. The others, with about twenty more, are on some great detached rocks at a turn in the valley. On crossing over, we found the tent pitched up the valley, which lies under Sarabeet.

23rd. We went up early to the stones bearing hieroglyphics, on the top of the hill, about three quarters of an hour's walk. The ascent is steep, and over crags and rocks. We remained till night examining the stones.

To the right is a small valley running up. This we followed till we came to two or three trees of the prickly acacia. Further on were rocks, which we climbed, and at length, under a steep rocky shelve, found a well dried up, and a wooden bowl beside it.

24th. At half-past five we left, and at seven arrived at a well, where we were obliged to stop till a quarter to four. Moussa found a man who procured us fresh rain water, from a secret place in the mountains. We filled our skins. The well is pretty enough. From fifteen to twenty palmtrees are near it. The valley is broad, and the hills low. About eleven, a hot wind came on, and continued to blow till half-past ten at night. We left at a quarter to four, and went on till halfpast six; then rested half an hour, and continued on till eleven, stopping in Wady Taib.

The hot wind blew with violence, and ren

dered the travelling disagreeable; the sun and the wind were both in our faces. The air was all along troubled-and obscured, particularly at the horizon. At night it became calm, not a breath for intervals, which would be followed by a slight motion of the air; at one time the remains of the hot wind, at another the commencement of the cold.

We started at a quarter past five; stopped at Gharandel at five, stopped again at a quarter to eight till nine; then went on till half-past ten. At halfpast five we started, and arrived at Aina Moussa at half-past two. Both these days, the winds were insufferably hot; the second day worse than the first, and the third than the second.

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CHAPTER XVII.

Soil of Egypt-The Delta-Breadth of the Valley of the Nile— Mahomed Ali's Principal Ministers-Egyptian Architecture-Recollections and Anecdotes.

deposited mud of the entirely alluvial forma

THE productive soil of Egypt, for the most part, is constituted by the Nile and the Delta is an tion. The French savans ascertained the depth of the mud by sinking wells in various places, and the result of their investigations may be found in Denon. The base of the Delta is one hundred and fifty miles, or thereabouts, in extent, and the sides of the Isosceles are about one hundred miles. It has been called by various names, for it by no means resembles minutely the Greek letter. Scylax denominates it TXUS; the natives, Rab, or Rib ; the present day softened into Erif, from its resemblance to half of a pear; and Bahari, or the mari

at