182 TOMBS OF BENI HASSAN.-RETURN TO CAIRO.

are still remaining; and further to the north in ruins, surrounded by a wall, are some small columns, about two feet in diameter, with Egyptian bases. There are also some clustered Corinthian columns, which shew evident marks of the decline of the art. Near the village are several shafts of granite columns, and close by are the remains of a Roman brick building, which the Arabs call El Hamam, the Bath.-Quitting Sheik-a-badi, we continued our route down the river, till we came to the tombs of Beni Hassan. These tombs contain some of the most interesting paintings which are to be seen between this place and Thebes. The representations in the paintings of these tombs consist of drawings descriptive of the chase, wrestling, dancing, and the various trades, and domestic pursuits of the ancient Egyptians. Some of the tombs are yet unfinished, but well merit inspection. Between this place and Cairo, with the exception of the Pyramidal tomb near Riggeh, about sixty miles before arriving at Cairo, known as Haram-el-Kedah, or the false Pyramid, there is little or nothing to detain the traveller.

On our return to Cairo, we found that no firman had been received from Constantinople for our intended journey into Palestine, though application had been made to the Dutch ambassador, through the kindness of Mr. Schutz. We found Lord and Major F., who were waiting in

Cairo for the same purpose as ourselves, to visit Palestine; but, having no firman, and hearing that the plague was then raging at Jerusalem, they were induced to defer their journey, till political affairs should assume a more settled aspect, and the plague be in some degree abated. Thus were we detained in Cairo for more than six weeks, without any appearance of the practicability of our design. Six or seven other English travellers were at the same time in that city, some of whom had visited Mount Sinai; and, from their description, from the interest attached to those different parts of the desert of Arabia Petræa, so celebrated in the Exodus, and from the facility afforded us of accomplishing the tour, the whole of which lay within the Pachalic of Egypt, we resolved to undertake the journey, which might easily be accomplished in twenty-five days; hoping that on our return affairs would admit of proceeding with our original intention.

Accordingly we paid a visit to the Superior of the Greek Convent, to obtain a letter of introduction to the Monks of the Convent at Mount Sinai, and also by his means were enabled to enter into an arrangement with the heads of three tribes of Bedouins, through whose districts the route of our journey lay. On our hiring two dromedaries of each tribe, they were willing to accompany us; and, having provided ourselves with skins, for carrying water, a light tent, and a few provisions,

a little rice, flour, coffee, and biscuits, we were prepared for setting out; but delayed so doing for a day or two, in order to witness a concert of Arabic Music, given by an English traveller, now resident in Cairo.

185

CHAPTER XVI.

Concert at Cairo-Departure for Mount Sinai-The Springs of Moses-Wady-Feran-Arab Welcome-Quarrel between Two Arabs-The Convent-Chapel of St. Helena-Plain below Horeb -Inscriptions near Sarabeit-El-Khaddam-Hot Winds.

186 TURKISH CONCERT DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO.

the East. The manner of gathering this fruit, not being generally known to English readers, a representation of it is here given.

WE had been induced to defer our departure, in order to be present at a Turkish concert, given by Mr.. On going there, after sunset, we found a divan of from twenty-five to thirty people, Turks and Europeans. After an hour's smoking, the company removed to the garden, where many other Turks were dispersed in groups. The garden was illuminated with coloured lamps. The music sounded strangely indeed to an European ear; yet no amateur in the pit of San Carlo ever experienced greater delight than did the Arabs, while listening to the wild plaintive strains of their national music, which, in the peculiar character of its melody, may be in some degree compared with the Irish. Such is the fondness of the Arabs for this music, that sometimes their pipes fell neglected to the ground, or were suffered to go out, while they sat wrapt in extacy, exclaiming Mashallahtaib-taib! and many remained till morning. As usual among "the Turks, supper was eaten with the fingers. A sheep had been roasted entire for the occasion.

On the following morning we started at ten A. M., and, after a journey of only two hours and a half, pitched our tents near a small tree, or bush, under